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Member Since: Apr 16, 2012
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Total Points: 849

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 1269 | Routes 37 | Areas 1 | Approach Trails 2 | Photos 90 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 67 | Posts 242 | Stars 506 | Ratings 322
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > Pistol Whipped > Coyne Crack Simulator (5.11a)
By: Trevor. When: Nov 16, 2017

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Comments: The anchor on this route is kind of strangely located. Not sure why the FA didn't just place the bolts out left.


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > 2nd Meat Wall > Evening Ecstacy (5.9+)
By: Trevor. When: Nov 13, 2017

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Comments: Replaced the quite wallowed out lower bolt with a 6" glue-in courtesy of ASCA. That should hopefully be bomber for a longtime!


Location: Idaho > West Idaho > Black Cliffs > The Dark Side > Promiscuity Crack (5.10b) > Photo
By: Trevor. When: Oct 31, 2017

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Comments: Yep. That's one of the many bolted crack climbs at the cliffs.


Location: Idaho > Central Idaho > The Sawtooth Range > Baron Spire aka Old Smoothi... > Photo
By: Trevor. When: Sep 10, 2017

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Comments: This bolt has not aged well since this photo was taken. It's now almost entirely out of the hole and was really scary to aid on!


Location: Idaho > West Idaho > Table Rock > Arena, The > Dihedrral (5.9+)
By: Trevor. When: Aug 27, 2017

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Comments: Fun story: Years ago, when I was a teenager, I bought my first pair of climbing shoes and took them up to Table Rock with the intention of teaching myself to rock climb. Knowing practically nothing about climbing, including that ropes and crash pads are generally used, I thought it would be a good idea to onsight solo this line.
I made it most of the way to the top out, but got spooked by the crumbly exit moves and decided that my best course of action was to downclimb it. I managed to reverse ... more >>


Location: Idaho > Central Idaho > The Sawtooth Range > Warbonnet Peak > Photo
By: Trevor. When: Aug 23, 2017

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Comments: Rather than staying high in Goat Creek as shown on this map, you're much better off dropping straight down to the Little Warbonnet Lake Outlet and following faint trails to the Bead Lakes. Otherwise this map is spot on.


Location: Idaho > Central Idaho > The Sawtooth Range > Warbonnet Peak > SE Face (5.7)
By: Trevor. When: Aug 22, 2017

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Comments: BETA ALERT!

There are many variations on this route, but this is what I recommend:

P1: Easy 5.5 from the saddle up to sling blocks and a tree.
P2: Traverse left, past a tree, and continue into a large chimney, and continue through a tight squeeze.
P3: Head straight up twin cracks once through the chimney, and continue straight up through blocky terrain and a short squeeze chimney section. Belay is obvious on a ledge where you can sling blocks.
P4: Scramble left to obvious splitter hand crac... more >>


Location: New Mexico > Taos Area > Vista Verde Crag > 1. Bat Cave > Photo
By: Trevor. When: Jul 16, 2017

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Comments: Looks similar to some of the routes at Dierkes Lake, ID. Super steep basalt is wild!


Location: Idaho > West Idaho > McCall Area > Slick Rock > Regular Route (5.6) > Photo
By: Trevor. When: Jul 5, 2017

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Comments: I'm pretty sure this is not on the Regular route. I've climbed it twice and never seen any protection bolts. IIRC this is the crux pitch of Slippery Slope.


Location: Idaho > West Idaho > McCall Area > Slick Rock
By: Trevor. When: Jul 2, 2017

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Comments: The log jam at the creek crossing changed this winter with the high runoff flows, and is now a bit sketchier than in the past. While walking across the single log bridges to the main log jam is tempting, one of them cracked loudly under my weight, and seemed ready to break. I'd recommend just wading the creek below the log jam instead.

Also the descent gully loosened up quite a bit since last season, be extra careful in there, especially if anyone is below you.


Location: Idaho > West Idaho > McCall Area > Slick Rock > Regular Route (5.6)
By: Trevor. When: Jul 2, 2017

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Comments: Definitely the best route on the wall. A 70m rope is useful for linking pitches and skipping crappy belay spots.

The whole formation goes into the shade in the late afternoon(4pm around summer solstice), so if you're fairly certain you'll cruise it, a good strategy to avoid baking in the sun is to start mid afternoon and spend most of the climb in the shade. Not recommended if you're unfamiliar with the descent, not a good one to onsight in the dark.

Rack beta:
I climbed it with ... more >>


Location: Idaho > West Idaho > Black Cliffs > West Car Body Canyon > Nemesis (5.11c PG13)
By: Trevor. When: May 29, 2017

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Comments: A thorough brushing before climbing and very sticky shoes help make this climb a bit more manageable. Otherwise, I hope you enjoy smearing on silt!


Location: Idaho > West Idaho > Black Cliffs > Mid Cliffs > Swallow (5.10b)
By: Trevor. When: Apr 2, 2017

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Comments: Zach, this route is called Wizard's Sleeve. I've already got it posted on MP. They're the same line for all but the last few feet; it basically just got renamed when the lead bolts and anchor appeared.


Location: Idaho > West Idaho > Mores Mountain
By: Trevor. When: Nov 4, 2016

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Comments: If you're bushwhacking and on a faint trail, you're taking the wrong way to the crag. The good trail starts approximately 100ft down the road past the rock, and is usually marked by a rock cairn. Use it!


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Yosemite Valley > Cathedral Spires Area > Higher Cathedral Spire > ... > Photo
By: Trevor. When: Oct 18, 2016

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Comments: 5.9+++


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Yosemite Valley > Cathedral Spires Area > Middle Cathedral Rock > Kor-Beck (5.9)
By: Trevor. When: Sep 30, 2016

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Comments: I'd recommend against continuing this route to the top of the formation unless you enjoy loose rock, difficult route finding, and excavating through debris for dubious gear placements and jams. If you're looking for adventurous chossaneering, by all means go ahead, but most will want to bring two ropes and rap off when the climbing turns to shit.


Location: Idaho > Central Idaho > The Sawtooth Range > The Elephant's Perch > Photo
By: Trevor. When: Aug 18, 2016

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Comments: That may well be the best campsite in the world.


Location: Idaho > Central Idaho > The Sawtooth Range > The Elephant's Perch > Mountaineer's Route (5.9) > Photo
By: Trevor. When: Aug 15, 2016

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Comments: Interesting, I've always started ~20ft to the right in the gully proper. That looks fun though.


Location: Idaho > South Idaho > City of Rocks > King on the Throne > King on the Throne - West > Sorcerer of Death's Constru... (5.10d)
By: Trevor. When: Aug 10, 2016

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Comments: Hate to break it to you but you didn't get the FA. I climbed it a few years back, and I'm sure I wasn't the first one up it either. Still a fun line to hit up, especially if you're camped right there.


Location: Idaho > Central Idaho > The Sawtooth Range > Finger of Fate > Open Book (5.8)
By: Trevor. When: Jul 17, 2016

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Comments: On the 5.5 "no pro" slab section, there is actually a small but solid thread about halfway up out right. I seem to recall a skinny double length runner working best for it.


Location: Idaho > Central Idaho > The Sawtooth Range > The Elephant's Perch > Direct Beckey (5.11b) > Photo
By: Trevor. When: Jul 3, 2016

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Comments: My last time up this, my partner lead straight up the roof about 20ft left of the climber in this photo. It was a bit lichen coated and went at about 10+ with reasonable protection.


Location: Idaho > Central Idaho > The Sawtooth Range > The Elephant's Perch > The Fine Line (5.11c)
By: Trevor. When: Jun 27, 2016

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Comments: Definitely a few spooky blocks on this one, including a few we would have liked to trundle had we known the base was clear for sure. Be careful.

This was our rack, which we found nearly perfect as fairly cautious climbers:
Offset Micronuts
DMM Alloy Offsets
Large Nuts (SUPER USEFUL!!!)
Singles BD 0.1-3
Doubles BD 0.3-2
X4 Offsets .2/.3 - .4/.5 (Not necessary but we definitely used them)
Lots of slings
SUN PRO!

If you wanna trim down on weight, you could make a single #2 and no #3 work.


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > North Six Shooter Peak > Lightning Bolt Cracks (5.11-)
By: Trevor. When: May 22, 2016

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Comments: I thought the second pitch finger crack was very stiff for the grade by Creek standards. When(not if) I climb this route again, I'll bring doubles from 0.3-3, and a single #5. No #4. With a #5 Camalot you can forego the #4 and still be well protected when the going gets wide. I thought the squeeze chimney at the top was super casual, felt like 5.7 to me.

As of 5/18/16 there were no fixed slings nor any fixed gear on the route with the exception of the bolts on the summit.


Location: Utah > Zion National Park > Red Arch Mountain > Shune's Buttress (5.11+) > Photo
By: Trevor. When: Mar 7, 2016

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Comments: Funny, my first thought was how enjoyable that looks.


Location: Idaho > West Idaho > Black Cliffs > Short Cliffs > Bag of Stems (5.7 R)
By: Trevor. When: Mar 2, 2016

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Comments: May as well just go up with nothing but draws to clip the anchors, any pro you get is too low to do much of anything once you're off the ledge. It's really secure and easy chimneying though.


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