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Member Since: Apr 16, 2012
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Trevor.
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Point Rank: # 974
Total Points: 741

95 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 1114 | Routes 34 | Areas 1 | Photos 87 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 60 | Posts 212 | Stars 450 | Ratings 268
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: New Mexico : Taos Area : Vista Verde Crag : 1. Bat Cave : Photo
By: Trevor. When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Looks similar to some of the routes at Dierkes Lake, ID. Super steep basalt is wild!


Location: Idaho : West Idaho : McCall Area : Slick Rock : Regular Route (5.6) : Photo
By: Trevor. When: Jul 5, 2017

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Comments: I'm pretty sure this is not on the Regular route. I've climbed it twice and never seen any protection bolts. IIRC this is the crux pitch of Slippery Slope.


Location: Idaho : West Idaho : McCall Area : Slick Rock
By: Trevor. When: Jul 2, 2017

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Comments: The log jam at the creek crossing changed this winter with the high runoff flows, and is now a bit sketchier than in the past. While walking across the single log bridges to the main log jam is tempting, one of them cracked loudly under my weight, and seemed ready to break. I'd recommend just wading the creek below the log jam instead.

Also the descent gully loosened up quite a bit since last season, be extra careful in there, especially if anyone is below you.


Location: Idaho : West Idaho : McCall Area : Slick Rock : Regular Route (5.6)
By: Trevor. When: Jul 2, 2017

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Comments: Definitely the best route on the wall. A 70m rope is useful for linking pitches and skipping crappy belay spots.

The whole formation goes into the shade in the late afternoon(4pm around summer solstice), so if you're fairly certain you'll cruise it, a good strategy to avoid baking in the sun is to start mid afternoon and spend most of the climb in the shade. Not recommended if you're unfamiliar with the descent, not a good one to onsight in the dark.

Rack beta:
I climbed it with ... more >>


Location: Idaho : West Idaho : Black Cliffs : West Car Body Canyon : Nemesis (5.11c PG13)
By: Trevor. When: May 29, 2017

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Comments: A thorough brushing before climbing and very sticky shoes help make this climb a bit more manageable. Otherwise, I hope you enjoy smearing on silt!


Location: Idaho : West Idaho : Black Cliffs : Mid Cliffs : Swallow (5.10b)
By: Trevor. When: Apr 2, 2017

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Comments: Zach, this route is called Wizard's Sleeve. I've already got it posted on MP. They're the same line for all but the last few feet; it basically just got renamed when the lead bolts and anchor appeared.


Location: Idaho : West Idaho : Mores Mountain
By: Trevor. When: Nov 4, 2016

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Comments: If you're bushwhacking and on a faint trail, you're taking the wrong way to the crag. The good trail starts approximately 100ft down the road past the rock, and is usually marked by a rock cairn. Use it!


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cathedral Spires Area : Higher Cathedral Spire : ... : Photo
By: Trevor. When: Oct 18, 2016

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Comments: 5.9+++


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cathedral Spires Area : Middle Cathedral Rock : Kor-Beck (5.9)
By: Trevor. When: Sep 30, 2016

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Comments: I'd recommend against continuing this route to the top of the formation unless you enjoy extremely loose rock, difficult route finding, and excavating through debris for dubious gear placements and jams. If you're looking for some adventurous chossaneering, by all means go ahead, but most will want to bring two ropes and rap off when the climbing turns to shit.


Location: Idaho : Central Idaho : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Photo
By: Trevor. When: Aug 18, 2016

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Comments: That may well be the best campsite in the world.


Location: Idaho : Central Idaho : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Mountaineer's Route (5.9) : Photo
By: Trevor. When: Aug 15, 2016

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Comments: Interesting, I've always started ~20ft to the right in the gully proper. That looks fun though.


Location: Idaho : South Idaho : City of Rocks : King on the Throne : King on the Throne - West : Sorcerer of Death's Constru... (5.10d)
By: Trevor. When: Aug 10, 2016

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Comments: Hate to break it to you but you didn't get the FA. I climbed it a few years back, and I'm sure I wasn't the first one up it either. Still a fun line to hit up, especially if you're camped right there.


Location: Idaho : Central Idaho : The Sawtooth Range : Finger of Fate : Open Book (5.8)
By: Trevor. When: Jul 17, 2016

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Comments: On the 5.5 "no pro" slab section, there is actually a small but solid thread about halfway up out right. I seem to recall a skinny double length runner working best for it.


Location: Idaho : Central Idaho : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Direct Beckey (5.11b) : Photo
By: Trevor. When: Jul 3, 2016

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Comments: My last time up this, my partner lead straight up the roof about 20ft left of the climber in this photo. It was a bit lichen coated and went at about 10+ with reasonable protection.


Location: Idaho : Central Idaho : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : The Fine Line (5.11c)
By: Trevor. When: Jun 27, 2016

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Comments: Definitely a few spooky blocks on this one, including a few we would have liked to trundle had we known the base was clear for sure. Be careful.

This was our rack, which we found nearly perfect as fairly cautious climbers:
Offset Micronuts
DMM Alloy Offsets
Large Nuts (SUPER USEFUL!!!)
Singles BD 0.1-3
Doubles BD 0.3-2
X4 Offsets .2/.3 - .4/.5 (Not necessary but we definitely used them)
Lots of slings
SUN PRO!

If you wanna trim down on weight, you could make a single #2 and no #3 w... more >>


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : North Six Shooter Peak : Lightning Bolt Cracks (5.11-)
By: Trevor. When: May 22, 2016

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Comments: I thought the second pitch finger crack was very stiff for the grade by Creek standards. When(not if) I climb this route again, I'll bring doubles from 0.3-3, and a single #5. No #4. With a #5 Camalot you can forego the #4 and still be well protected when the going gets wide. I thought the squeeze chimney at the top was super casual, felt like 5.7 to me.

As of 5/18/16 there were no fixed slings nor any fixed gear on the route with the exception of the bolts on the summ... more >>


Location: Utah : Zion National Park : Red Arch Mountain : Shune's Buttress (5.11+) : Photo
By: Trevor. When: Mar 7, 2016

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Comments: Funny, my first thought was how enjoyable that looks.


Location: Idaho : West Idaho : Black Cliffs : Short Cliffs : Bag of Stems (5.7 R)
By: Trevor. When: Mar 2, 2016

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Comments: May as well just go up with nothing but draws to clip the anchors, any pro you get is too low to do much of anything once you're off the ledge. It's really secure and easy chimneying though.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Photo
By: Trevor. When: Feb 28, 2016

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Comments: The Indian Creek log flume ride is currently out of order...


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : South Sixshooter : South Face Angling Crack? (5.10b)
By: Trevor. When: Nov 29, 2015

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Comments: This is definitely the way to go if you're going to climb the South Six and are comfortable leading 5.10.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Cave Route (5.10d)
By: Trevor. When: Nov 28, 2015

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Comments: Something about this crack made my toes hurt for days after climbing it. Cool setting but I didn't particularly enjoy the climbing itself all that much.


Location: Idaho : North Idaho : Q'Emilin Park : Outback Wall : Kangaroo (5.8)
By: Trevor. When: Oct 3, 2015

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Comments: The way this climb is bolted is a bit silly. There are several bolts you can just skip without putting yourself in any danger.


Location: Idaho : South Idaho : City of Rocks : Twin Sisters : Photo
By: Trevor. When: Sep 25, 2015

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Comments: Some of the best sunsets I've ever seen have been at the City. Great shot!


Location: Washington : Northeast Corner & Spokane : Spokane Area : Minnehaha : Main Wall : The Dihedral (5.9+)
By: Trevor. When: Aug 31, 2015

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Comments: The two bolts on top are just regular hangers so you won't be able to rappel or lower. So if you lead this thing, plan on having a follower clean your gear and then walk off.

Great climb though, diverse movement and ample but thoughtful pro make for a good time.


Location: Idaho : West Idaho : Mores Mountain : Roadside Rock : Computer Girl (5.9+)
By: Trevor. When: Aug 23, 2015

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Comments: If you link both pitches into one long wandering pitch, it's more fun! Definitely bring a ton of runners if you're going to do this though!


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