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Member Since: Mar 4, 2013
Last Visit: Mar 8, 2013
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3

Where has Travis Griggs been climbing?


All 12 | Routes | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 6 | Posts | Stars 5 | Ratings 1

Contributed Comments


Location: Tennessee > Obed & Clear Creek > Lilly Bluff > Heresy (5.11c)
By: Travis Griggs When: Mar 8, 2013

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Comments: This was the second .11 I ever redpointed, and it remains my favorite sport climb in the universe. The crux comes about half way up the vertical feace, with balancy crossover on funky feet. After that, it's easy climbing to the chimney for a long rest before launching out the roof. The first fixed draw in the roof can be clipped from the chimney, and the second and third clips straddle a mondo no-hands rest.

It's like climbing on a sandstone jungle gym. Highly recommended.

Location: Tennessee > Obed & Clear Creek > South Clear Creek > The Balcony > Best Seat In The House (5.9)
By: Travis Griggs When: Mar 8, 2013

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Comments: I've climbed this route 5 or 6 times, and it's one of my favorite moderates at the Obed. The crux is right off the ground, and a steep dropoff to the right of the belay makes it a good candidate for a stick clip. The easiest beta I've found is to trend up and right to a small alcove/ledge on the arete. From there,move onto the left face for a string of long reaches and balancy moves on positive (but thin enough to keep it interesting) holds to the cleanest topout in the canyon.

For a change of ... more >>

Location: Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Bald Rock Recreational Pres... > The Motherlode > Undertow Wall > Snapper (5.11a)
By: Travis Griggs When: Mar 8, 2013

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Comments: One of the easiest routes in the Lode, and still pretty stout for a 5.11 climber. It felt pretty doable for the first couple bolts. There are plenty of decent holds. But this thing just never. lets. up. I can hold my own pulling big roofs, but this sustained over-vertical stuff is relentless. By mid-route my arms were torched. I finally decided to throw in the towel after blowing the fourth clip in grand fashion, twice, and riding a pair of whistlers that each brought me ass-to-eyeballs with my ... more >>

Location: Tennessee > Sunset Park > Sunset North > Rusty's Crack (5.10a)
By: Travis Griggs When: Mar 4, 2013

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Comments: I pulled the roof crux by keeping my feet right as long as possible, then leaning way out left to a good hold about even with the base of the crack on the left. Once you've got that, cut your feet, swing left, and pull up to squeeze (hump?) the left overhanging arete between your feet. Before your thighs give out, squeeze hard, stand up, and jam a right hand fist jam as high as you can in the crack. Pray it holds while you match your left foot at your left hand, then you're golden!

Take a long... more >>

Location: Tennessee > Obed & Clear Creek > Lilly Bluff > Dinosaur Jr. (5.10c PG13)
By: Travis Griggs When: Mar 4, 2013

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Comments: This route doesn't get as much traffic as the nearby Paraphernalia (5.10b/c), but I always thought Dino Jr was the better route. I highly recommend you stickclip the first bolt. If you blow the cruxy opening moves -- a powerful layback and slap to the shelf -- you'll end up crashing down off-balance onto a large pointy bolder.

The climbing eases substantially higher on the route, but the pump can sneak up on you during the final steep moves to the anchors. Good route.

Location: Tennessee > Obed & Clear Creek > North Clear Creek > North Clear Creek > Alpine Dihedral (5.8+)
By: Travis Griggs When: Mar 4, 2013

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Comments: Yep, AD can be climbed in a single pitch. It's silly to call it a Grade III. I'm not sure where that came from...

Fun climb though. I took a monster whipper on this one when my toe slipped on a wet hold about half way up the second pitch. I'd just stopped to place pro and was a little run out when it happened. A little purple camalot caught the fall and I ended up hanging left of the belay ledge, just about even with my partner.

Good times! This could be a good one for an aspiring multi-pitc... more >>

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