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Member Since: Nov 29, 2010
Last Visit: Nov 21, 2017
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Point Rank: # 24,171
Total Points: 5

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has transattic been climbing?










Contributions


All 26 | Routes | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos 1 | Page Improvements | Comments 6 | Posts 3 | Stars 11 | Ratings 5

Contributed Comments

 

Location: Utah > Moab Area > Potash Road > Wall Street > Holey Moley (5.5)
By: transattic When: May 23, 2013

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Comments: Nice variety of slopers and crimps. Some manteling for kicks. Crux at the start. Cakewalk from thereafter!


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Potash Road > Wall Street > Practical Religion (5.5)
By: transattic When: May 23, 2013

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Comments: Finger slopers with occasional crimps. Not much variety. You might want to warm up here but not worth the time. I had much more fun at Unknown Slab (or Slab 1) that is just the right of this route and to the left of Grama and the Green Suede Shoes.


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Potash Road > Wall Street > Grama and the Green Suede S... (5.7)
By: transattic When: May 23, 2013

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Comments: Off-width crack with fun-filled mantels, crimps, fist jams, armbars, and stems.

This was a challenging and risky climb without Camalot #4-5's, BUT it is absolutely possible.

So you have an idea of how it was possible, I was able to protect the route using #1-3 Camalots, #10-12 stoppers, draws, and double-length runners. The runners came in handy when I had to set pros deep within the narrow cracks within the obvious humongo crack. I gotta remind you that if you had #4-5's you wouldn't need... more >>


Location: California > Los Angeles Basin > Santa Ana Mountains > Ortega Falls
By: transattic When: Apr 20, 2011

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Comments: map coordinates:

@33.622624,-117.427025

maps.google.com/maps?f=q&sourc...


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Real Hidden Valley > The Thin Wall > Almost Vertical (5.7)
By: transattic When: Mar 21, 2011

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Comments: Fun to trad. If you want to avoid getting your rope stuck (or high drag) in the lower crack, you can either 1) attach 2-4' runners to pro or 2) skip pro until the first top-out, but that's if you don't mind taking a 20-foot risk.

Continue rest of climb with pro, while keeping the rope out of the lower crack.

For anchor, use 3 cams and 1 chock. Avoid the loose flat stone wedged between the left and middle rocks.


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Real Hidden Valley > The Thin Wall > Count on Your Fingers (5.9)
By: transattic When: Mar 21, 2011

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Comments: You can also climb a 5.8+ version of this route starting from the right of the arete and slowly making your way back to the main route for top rope.

There are 2 bolts on the top-out, which also allows quick setup for top rope.


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