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Member Since: Apr 17, 2004
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 28
Total Points: 11,175

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 6589 | Routes 298 | Areas 82 | Approach Trails | Photos 1393 | Page Improvements | Comments 1708 | Posts 1329 | Stars 1215 | Ratings 564
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (h) Open Book Area : The Glossary (5.11b) : Photo
By: Tradiban When: Sep 17, 2017

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Comments: Awesome, thanks for adding all these routes!


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (h) Open Book Area : The Hedge (5.10a)
By: Tradiban When: Sep 17, 2017

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Comments: We didn't top rope it Bob. No way it's 10d, musta been a rough day for those guys...or it could just be reachy, but who gives a fuck anyway, it's like 30ft of climbing.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (g) West Face : West Face - Left Side : The Passover (5.10d R)
By: Tradiban When: Sep 16, 2017

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Comments: Putting in a bolt from the stance before the mantle and replacing the higher bolt would make this a great climb. Jamming the roof system is pure awesome.

On P3 you can go left on the next ledge after the belay but there's 2 stacked blocks that are ready to blow. I managed to climb around them very carefully and did encounter an old star drive bolt, not sure if this was how the FA climbed it but it's easier than the mantle move to the right.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (i) South Face : South Face - Left Side : The Offshoot (5.9)
By: Tradiban When: Sep 9, 2017

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Comments: From the Left Ski Track anchors this would clip the 2 bolt anchor of P2 of The Heathen and clip the first bolt of P3 of The Heathen, then shoot out left for one more bolt to the gully, so three clips in total. The gully is easy but you might want to put in a piece or two.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (i) South Face : South Face - Left Side : Sling Swing Traverse (5.9)
By: Tradiban When: Sep 9, 2017

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Comments: The anchors to rap from in the description are the anchors for The Heathen, the first rap is pretty short, the second takes a 70m to the ground. Probably easier to top it out and do the friction decent.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (f) West Face Bulge Routes : Lower Bulge Buttress : Le Toit Direct (5.8)
By: Tradiban When: Sep 9, 2017

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Comments: I thought this was alright, a worthy alternative to Standup Flake. Kinda blue collar.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (d) Northwest Recess : The Error (5.6)
By: Tradiban When: Sep 9, 2017

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Comments: Did the direct 5.8 variation directly in the corner through the roof on P1, there's an interesting step out left and backwards to a pedestal, pretty fun.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (b) North Face
By: Tradiban When: Sep 7, 2017

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Comments: Chris, I'm going up to check on it tomorrow afternoon.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland South : Wonderland Valley : ... : Photo
By: Tradiban When: Sep 6, 2017

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Comments: I can't believe it's a girdle.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (d) Northwest Recess : Sahara Terror (5.7)
By: Tradiban When: Sep 2, 2017

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Comments: Climbed this route again today, no more loose rock than anything else in the area. It had a nice Alpine feel to the climbing. If you find the bolt in the upper half you are on route.

Feeling like a broken record here but quite a few routes have killed people on Tahquitz and there's lots of loose stuff on the entire North wall all the way over to Super Pooper. Paying close attention to what you are putting your gear behind is a good idea.


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 03 - West of the... : White Wall
By: Tradiban When: Aug 29, 2017

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Comments: Ask Vinny about Rattlers around this wall and the legend of the lost flip flop.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (v) North Face : Harm's Way (5.10b R)
By: Tradiban When: Aug 28, 2017

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Comments: Did Peer Pressure to start this, skipped the junky 5.6 R section by going left to the Obscured by Clouds anchor. Whipped on the marginal bolt but found the path of least resistance a few feet right of the bolt, exactly where the upward flake pinched off. Full friction for 10ft or so and then it let up.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (v) North Face : Hillside Strangler (5.10b)
By: Tradiban When: Aug 28, 2017

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Comments: I clipped the second bolt from the right side of the arete and then down climbed to the first bolt to turn onto the slab. Micro edges to start and then it eases off, a little run after the second bolt. Look right at the seam, around the corner is good gear.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (k) Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side : Nirvana (5.11a)
By: Tradiban When: Aug 28, 2017

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Comments: A believe the consensus is that is harder than Valhalla, I agree. It's unrelenting micro edges and smears all the way into Valhalla. This is the type of slab climbing In hate.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (k) Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side : Moondance (5.11c)
By: Tradiban When: Aug 28, 2017

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Comments: Approached this from Nirvana start and then did the OG 11a traverse in. I clipped the bolt off log ledge, did the Sundance start and clipped a long runner to the next bolt, down climbed and then set off to clip the third bolt on Moondance.

This pitch has classic all over it, perfect rock, thoughtful moves and heady but safe run-out.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (g) West Face : West Face - Left Side : ... : Photo
By: Tradiban When: Aug 26, 2017

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Comments: Did it today, going on top of the flake is correct for Spiders. Description updated.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (g) West Face : West Face - Left Side : Spiders From Mars/Lower Roy... (5.10c)
By: Tradiban When: Aug 26, 2017

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Comments: I climbed Spiders today, it definitely starts over the downward facing flake, a little gritty but a hell of a good pitch. I will update the description.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (b) North Face
By: Tradiban When: Aug 25, 2017

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Comments: Can't see the pics. How big is it? We don't really trundle up here. Do you think it's going to stay where it is or is easily pulled down?


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (g) West Face : West Face - Left Side : ... : Photo
By: Tradiban When: Aug 24, 2017

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Comments: Did you go up that small corner or under the flake?


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (g) West Face : West Face - Left Side : Spiders From Mars/Lower Roy... (5.10c)
By: Tradiban When: Aug 24, 2017

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Comments: I'm baffled, under the roof was a junkshow, with only one solid piece, there were a bunch of other placements but the rock was thin and hollow. I will probably get back on it this weekend and take a pic.


Location: Wisconsin : The Fishin' Crag (Castle Ro... : Amphitheater Wall : ? (5.11+)
By: Tradiban When: Aug 21, 2017

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Comments: D, bolter is unknown but screams Ralph Schmidt to me. I don't recall coming to a conclusion about how this is supposed to climb. Could be broken holds.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (g) West Face : West Face - Left Side : Spiders From Mars/Lower Roy... (5.10c)
By: Tradiban When: Aug 21, 2017

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Comments: It's just the roof system I thought was pretty bad. Maybe start by going over the downward facing flake?


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (g) West Face : West Face - Left Side : Spiders From Mars/Lower Roy... (5.10c)
By: Tradiban When: Aug 20, 2017

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Comments: If anyone has beta on the condition of the rocks on these route, please post. I' m going to go back on rap to check them out soon. Also, looks possible to bypass the nasty traverse by going a little up Piton Pooper and traversing left over the roof towards the two obvious pins over the roof.

I should also note that the lone bolt on The Passover is a homemade aluminum hanger with a 1/4 bolt, shit! The two bolts on Chin Strap are also rusty junk. Avoid!


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (e) Maiden Buttress : Looking Backward (5.10a)
By: Tradiban When: Aug 20, 2017

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Comments: We traversed off left before the very thin right facing corner. It looked unprotectable, is it?


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Gill's Buttress : Gills Nose Direct (5.11d X)
By: Tradiban When: Aug 20, 2017

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Comments: Hasn't the direct always been 11d? The regular route in 11b. I rated 11d when I climbed in back then, maybe you are thinking of TR grades ;)


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