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Member Since: Apr 17, 2004
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 28
Total Points: 11,175

402 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 6685 | Routes 298 | Areas 82 | Approach Trails | Photos 1393 | Page Improvements | Comments 1718 | Posts 1406 | Stars 1224 | Ratings 564
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: California : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer : Thin Ice (5.10b)
By: Tradiban When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Am I confused about the definition of "sustained"? Great feet all over P1 and only one tight hands spot that I thought was 10b. P2 was strenuous, I was able to go straight in and lock my shoulders to the chimney but I've got long arms and skinny shoulders. For the cragging type (aka sport climbers) I would recommend rapping after P1.


Location: California : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Charlatan : Fancy Free (5.10)
By: Tradiban When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Never saw the death block on P1. P1 is pretty good but P2 is the highlight, tight hands to perfect finger locks for me.


Location: California : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Igor Unchained (5.9+)
By: Tradiban When: 2 days ago

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Comments: As described here we linked P1 and 2 to the big belay ledge with a 70m, barely. I took doubles of cams to #3 and did a bit of walking them as I went. The next pitch off the ledge is the $.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (v) North Face : Decapitation (5.11a)
By: Tradiban When: Oct 10, 2017

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Comments: supertopo.com/climbers-forum/3...

Enjoy!


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (n) Rebolting Face : Season's End (5.11c)
By: Tradiban When: Oct 9, 2017

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Comments: First half is pretty easy 10 but that 25ft of Crux is friggin desperate!


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (h) Smooth Sole Walls : Smooth Sole Wall - Right Si... : Battle of the Bulge (5.11a R)
By: Tradiban When: Oct 9, 2017

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Comments: The start with The Feind is a little run but you can start in the dihedral to the left too with a piece of gear or two. Crux is definitely between bolt two and three, I thought clipping bolt three was tough. Damn fun climb.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (c) Le Dent Pinnacle : Steal Your Face (5.12b)
By: Tradiban When: Sep 24, 2017

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Comments: This must start standing on the tree?


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (c) Le Dent Pinnacle : South Arete (5.11d)
By: Tradiban When: Sep 24, 2017

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Comments: The Crux bolt has been pulled out about a half inch. There's an old bolt right next to it so you can clip both but I dunno...

Also, to clarify, this starts on a crazy looking 40 ft tall, 3ft wide pillar that is totally detached. It's insane that it's still standing. Maybe better to start he route on a nice layback on the left, not sure. There's two bolts on the face above the pillar and then a third bolt directly on the arete so gain the upper arete.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (d) Deception Pillar : Brilliant Disguise (5.11a)
By: Tradiban When: Sep 24, 2017

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Comments: Fun cranking Crux between bolt 1 and 2, then an interesting traverse up and left. Pretty fun run-out after the last bolt on cool features.

Placed one cam for the easy 5.6 start and one gray BD at the top to back up the puny tree anchor.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (e) South Face : Disco Jesus (5.11b)
By: Tradiban When: Sep 24, 2017

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Comments: In decent temps this is just a solid 11b, most hard off the P1 belay. Great moves the whole way, I didn't find the knob step dicey at all. Also, we did the short layback on the left side for P1, I feel like that was the best way to start.

Put a gray BD in the underling of P2 but it wasn't really needed and went left at the top to the anchors for Crucifixion, one 70m rap to P1 anchors and another short rap to the ground.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (h) Open Book Area : The Glossary (5.11b) : Photo
By: Tradiban When: Sep 17, 2017

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Comments: Awesome, thanks for adding all these routes!


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (h) Open Book Area : The Hedge (5.10a)
By: Tradiban When: Sep 17, 2017

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Comments: We didn't top rope it Bob. No way it's 10d, musta been a rough day for those guys...or it could just be reachy, but who gives a fuck anyway, it's like 30ft of climbing.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (g) West Face : West Face - Left Side : The Passover (5.10d R)
By: Tradiban When: Sep 16, 2017

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Comments: Putting in a bolt from the stance before the mantle and replacing the higher bolt would make this a great climb. Jamming the roof system is pure awesome.

On P3 you can go left on the next ledge after the belay but there's 2 stacked blocks that are ready to blow. I managed to climb around them very carefully and did encounter an old star drive bolt, not sure if this was how the FA climbed it but it's easier than the mantle move to the right.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (i) South Face : South Face - Left Side : The Offshoot (5.9)
By: Tradiban When: Sep 9, 2017

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Comments: From the Left Ski Track anchors this would clip the 2 bolt anchor of P2 of The Heathen and clip the first bolt of P3 of The Heathen, then shoot out left for one more bolt to the gully, so three clips in total. The gully is easy but you might want to put in a piece or two.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (i) South Face : South Face - Left Side : Sling Swing Traverse (5.9)
By: Tradiban When: Sep 9, 2017

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Comments: The anchors to rap from in the description are the anchors for The Heathen, the first rap is pretty short, the second takes a 70m to the ground. Probably easier to top it out and do the friction decent.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (f) West Face Bulge Routes : Lower Bulge Buttress : Le Toit Direct (5.8)
By: Tradiban When: Sep 9, 2017

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Comments: I thought this was alright, a worthy alternative to Standup Flake. Kinda blue collar.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (d) Northwest Recess : The Error (5.6)
By: Tradiban When: Sep 9, 2017

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Comments: Did the direct 5.8 variation directly in the corner through the roof on P1, there's an interesting step out left and backwards to a pedestal, pretty fun.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (b) North Face
By: Tradiban When: Sep 7, 2017

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Comments: Chris, I'm going up to check on it tomorrow afternoon.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland South : Wonderland Valley : ... : Photo
By: Tradiban When: Sep 6, 2017

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Comments: I can't believe it's a girdle.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (d) Northwest Recess : Sahara Terror (5.7)
By: Tradiban When: Sep 2, 2017

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Comments: Climbed this route again today, no more loose rock than anything else in the area. It had a nice Alpine feel to the climbing. If you find the bolt in the upper half you are on route.

Feeling like a broken record here but quite a few routes have killed people on Tahquitz and there's lots of loose stuff on the entire North wall all the way over to Super Pooper. Paying close attention to what you are putting your gear behind is a good idea.


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 03 - West of the... : White Wall
By: Tradiban When: Aug 29, 2017

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Comments: Ask Vinny about Rattlers around this wall and the legend of the lost flip flop.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (v) North Face : Harm's Way (5.10b R)
By: Tradiban When: Aug 28, 2017

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Comments: Did Peer Pressure to start this, skipped the junky 5.6 R section by going left to the Obscured by Clouds anchor. Whipped on the marginal bolt but found the path of least resistance a few feet right of the bolt, exactly where the upward flake pinched off. Full friction for 10ft or so and then it let up.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (v) North Face : Hillside Strangler (5.10b)
By: Tradiban When: Aug 28, 2017

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Comments: I clipped the second bolt from the right side of the arete and then down climbed to the first bolt to turn onto the slab. Micro edges to start and then it eases off, a little run after the second bolt. Look right at the seam, around the corner is good gear.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (k) Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side : Nirvana (5.11a)
By: Tradiban When: Aug 28, 2017

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Comments: A believe the consensus is that is harder than Valhalla, I agree. It's unrelenting micro edges and smears all the way into Valhalla. This is the type of slab climbing In hate.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (k) Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side : Moondance (5.11c)
By: Tradiban When: Aug 28, 2017

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Comments: Approached this from Nirvana start and then did the OG 11a traverse in. I clipped the bolt off log ledge, did the Sundance start and clipped a long runner to the next bolt, down climbed and then set off to clip the third bolt on Moondance.

This pitch has classic all over it, perfect rock, thoughtful moves and heady but safe run-out.


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