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Member Since: Jul 29, 2009
Last Visit: Jan 5, 2018
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Point Rank: # 10,102
Total Points: 45

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3

Where has Tony T. been climbing?


All 330 | Routes | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos 9 | Page Improvements | Comments 18 | Posts 198 | Stars 73 | Ratings 32

Contributed Comments


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > North > Third Flatiron
By: Tony T. When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: Whatever you do, don't EVER bail into the 1911 Gully from the Third between Spring and the first frost of Fall. No matter how bad the weather looks, or how hot the weather turned out to be, you will regret it after you and all of your gear is covered in poison ivy's Urushoil.

As of last week, the poison ivy plants were about 3' tall in some areas, and the patches were so large and vast that it was simply unavoidable. Sharp End's guidebook makes no mention of this, so hopefully I'll save som... more >>

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > North > Third Flatiron > 1911 Gully (5.5)
By: Tony T. When: Aug 20, 2014

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Comments: It cannot be overstated enough, there are large patches of poison ivy up to 3 feet tall in places. It is literally impossible to avoid contact with the poison ivy. Whatever you do, no matter how much of a pinch you are in on left side/southeast side of the Third Flatiron, don't ever rappel into this gully in the spring or summer or before the first frost. I can't believe the Sharp End guidebook doesn't mention the poison ivy, and I feel like it's irresponsible not to.

Location: Colorado > South Platte > Cathedral Spires Area > Cynical Pinnacle > Center Route (5.9+)
By: Tony T. When: Oct 10, 2013

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Comments: Just did this today and a few thoughts stick out.

First, there's the approach. It's a 1,500 foot gain from the car to the base in under a half a mile. It's steep, loose, and eroding badly. Turn around frequently to the south and enjoy the views as you get higher.

Second, getting to the first belay can be tricky. There is definitely a large patch of poison ivy off to the left of the "trail". The scrambling is 4th class on loose terrain.

Third, tape up if you're not used to coarse, granite... more >>

Location: Colorado > Golden > North Table Mountain/Golden... > Overhang Area > Off Line (5.8)
By: Tony T. When: Nov 1, 2012

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Comments: Pretty committing in the sense that it's not grid-bolted. The bolts are about 7-10 feet apart. I actually would have liked to place a few pieces of pro while I had to rescue lead it for someone who got a little gripped and had to back down. Fun route though! I just wouldn't recommend it for the leader lacking confidence or a new leader.

Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > Indian Peaks > Mount Neva > North Ridge
By: Tony T. When: Oct 3, 2012

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Comments: Such a fun climb! Everything about it was quality! We might have climbed on more low 5th class terrain, but the rock is bomber, the holds are ample, and the views/exposure is fantastic!

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... > Rewritten (5.7)
By: Tony T. When: Aug 31, 2012

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Comments: Honestly, listen to others advice and climb Zot instead of P1, and Rebuffat's Arete.

I think with those two substitutions, this is a four star route. However, without them it's not nearly up to the same "every pitch is fantastic" standard of say Ruper.

Location: Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge > The Book > The Pages Wall Area > ... > Photo
By: Tony T. When: Jul 11, 2012

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Comments: Do you happen to know what the crack on the right of that exit is called/rated? We climbed Osiris today, and decided to try the variation, but it was markedly more difficult than 5.7+. I'm seeing in the Gillett guide that it might be a 5.9 or 5.10b?!

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > The Bastille > The Bastille - W Face > West Buttress (5.10a)
By: Tony T. When: Aug 10, 2011

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Comments: Fantastic climb! I seconded up the variation on the Super Start (10a), and we inadvertently climbed the second pitch of Hair City from the anchors above the second pitch of the West Buttress.

If you want a sustained 5.9 climb the whole way up, I highly recommend the second pitch of Hair City instead of the rest of West Buttress for a hair-raising, exposed, but extremely enjoyable and safe roof!

Location: Colorado > Independence Pass > Monitor Rock > 1. Butt Wall > The Nose (5.6)
By: Tony T. When: Aug 26, 2010

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Comments: What a fantastic climb! I'm an aspiring trad leader, and this was perfect. The third pitch was either really run out, or I was off route. Regardless, it was very easy 5th class.

A few things to note.

It is a south facing wall, so expect sun all day.

Also, the route is rather tricky to find, but basically the climber's trail that takes you to the base of the wall, takes you to a pretty big dihedral of sorts. Go far right from this. If you hike too far up, you actually end up in a grov... more >>

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Photo
By: Tony T. When: Jul 11, 2010

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Comments: Well said, Lee.

I think the original intent was that if the anchor looks like the one in the picture, consider using a bail biner to rap off. That is pretty scary worn, and I would hesitate even rapping off that.

Location: Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > The Catslab
By: Tony T. When: Jul 10, 2010

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Comments: Can anyone tell me with certainty whether it's officially open or not?

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > The Wind Tower > Wind Tower - SW Face > Recon (5.6)
By: Tony T. When: Mar 17, 2010

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Comments: Why does the new guidebook by Steve Levin seem to negate everything posted on here about Recon?

He gives it three stars, and lists it as six pitches.

Any ideas?

Location: Colorado > CO Ice & Mixed > RMNP - Mixed/Ice > Moraine Park/Fern Lake Trai...
By: Tony T. When: Feb 22, 2010

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Comments: Does anyone have any better description on how to get to this climb? Me and a friend hiked almost two miles in from the Fern Lake Trailhead and we couldn't find it for the life of us. There was quite a bit of deep snow, but any beta on where the climb actually is?

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Cadillac Crag > V3 (5.8)
By: Tony T. When: Jan 18, 2010

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Comments: Was able to climb this today, in January! I love living in Colorado!

Turned out to be an amazing day of 50ish degree sunshine.

We used a 70 meter rope and it was too short. However, it was sufficient enough to get us to comfortable downclimbing spot.

Also, when you set up anchors at the top, you can place a few directional draws on the way down for the 5.11b next to it! Great fun.

Location: Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > High Wire Crag > Poker Face (5.8+)
By: Tony T. When: Sep 14, 2009

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Comments: Like Pony Up, this route has a rather tricky first bolt. Be careful getting to it, as it's essentially a pretty pumpy boulder problem.. There is a left traverse and a right traverse to the first bolt. Follow the chalk. The right is a bit harder than the left. After that it's easier, but not super easy. I wouldn't say it's a 7, but an easier 8, but it's relative I suppose. I guess it's a 7, but a less "quality" 7, and so it makes the route harder because it's not as intuitive as a "better"... more >>

Location: Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > High Wire Crag > Stone Cold Moderate (5.7)
By: Tony T. When: Aug 23, 2009

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Comments: Fun climb! It's nicely shaded. Also, it's a very popular section of the crag, but 5pm on a Saturday and everyone was gone.

The first bolt is a mother to get to. I actually set a 0.5 Camalot in the crack before I got to the first bolt, just in case.

After that, it's a blast. You can trad climb this route, or you can learn how to trad climb on this route.

Location: Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > High Wire Crag > People's Choice (5.10)
By: Tony T. When: Aug 23, 2009

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Comments: Great climb! I took the biggest and highest whipper on this route about a week ago. I took it on the third pitch getting out of the dihedral.

Two things...verbal communication is almost impossible on the third pitch. Bring a two-way radio or a loud person.

Second, today it was about 92F, and the rock was burning hot to the touch. We had to abandon our revisit to the route. After about 4pm the shade finally hit it and it cooled off.

Location: Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > River Wall > The Put In (5.7+)
By: Tony T. When: Aug 23, 2009

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Comments: It's a fun route, but it's a tad run-out, and a bit harder than a 5.7.

It's a great route for shade in the summer. The sun starts to hit it again around 4pm.

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