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Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb getting out of the overhang pockets and ...


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Tony B
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Point Rank: # 6
Total Points: 24,851
Last Year: 853
Last 30 Days: 156
462 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 16303 | Routes 1329 | Areas 129 | Photos 1550 | Page Improvements 5 | Comments 1861 | Posts 5141 | Stars 3913 | Ratings 2375
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahoe : I-80 Corridor : Donner/Truckee : Donner Pass Road : ... : Peter Principle (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: Sep 3, 2015

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Comments: Sure - that's the point of consensus.
One of the comments I originally was responding to was removed due to the bigoted language in it that most adults have outgrown, so I suppose it makes my reply look strange.
I suppose my off-handed comment in the description (that the locals told me that the prior book rated it 10 not 11a) could be taken as a serious discussion, for me it was just a "well, looks like opinions differ" addition to the description. I'm just surprised that any disagreement by... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Minotaur : The Megamahedral (5.11- PG13)
By: Tony B When: Sep 3, 2015

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Comments: ^^^ Yeah, I did both routes (IM and MM) there pretty much back to back, and there is a huge difference between them.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Lower Right Side : Fin (5.10 R)
By: Tony B When: Sep 3, 2015

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Comments: You can place multiple green Aliens l on the arete (so-so) and a yellow Alien or possibly a blue deep behind a flake right of the arete + an #4 or #5 BD stopper to protect the easier but runout upper half.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Lower Right Side : Curb Service (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Sep 3, 2015

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Comments: If you stay belly to the bolts and right of them, the 3rd bolt to the top is 5.11a or harder. 5.10a if you go left a little, except yeah, a bouldery start.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Electra Glide : Catch You Later (5.9+)
By: Tony B When: Sep 2, 2015

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Comments: The flake has been cleaned. The remaining climb as left should be safe and protect-able. Have at it.
As well, the torn and mossy webbing anchor (which was crap) has been replaced with 2 bolts to the left that won't kill the tree and will serve as a top anchor for any of the routes there.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Comment : Photo
By: Tony B When: Sep 1, 2015

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Comments: Did you guys manage that or is the USFS actually pitching in out there?
Either way - nice work.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Photo
By: Tony B When: Sep 1, 2015

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Comments: Come back in Feb./March and you'll see....


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Road Rock : Motorcycle Diaries (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Aug 29, 2015

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Comments: Instead of going hard to the right at the end, you can keep going directly up to the first large ledge @ 5.8 PG-13 (43 meters). There is a belay tree up there and to the right once on the ledge. No fixed belay on it though, but you can scramble down and climber's right to a rap.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Road Rock : Road Kill (5.12)
By: Tony B When: Aug 29, 2015

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Comments: The book screws up pretty much every route on this rock. 11+ or 12' sounds about right. Book says 10b. This sucks as a warm-up though.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Road Rock : Road Rash (or Tweaked?) (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: Aug 29, 2015

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Comments: The book misdirects all 3 of the climbs on the right side of the rock here...but yeah, the right-most bolted line is a moderate 5.10.


Location: CA : Tahoe : I-80 Corridor : Donner/Truckee : Donner Pass Road : ... : Peter Principle (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: Aug 24, 2015

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Comments: A post script, of sorts, over a decade later.
To my chagrin, it seems that therewas quite the hullabalu over the grading of this climb at 10d vs 11a and lots of people talking about ego and injury and sandbagging...
Now, a decade later, it seems that the 11a crowd outnumbers the 10d crowd by 3:1. So it is 11a. Which we all know to be slightly easier than 10d much of the time... (As often acknowledged with a wink in mainstream climbing media.)

I'm just trying to figure now, why, if this is re... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Photo
By: Tony B When: Aug 24, 2015

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Comments: I'm measuring things up and thinking that snake might end up with a rough day as well.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Implied Consent (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Aug 23, 2015

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Comments: And having forgotten I'd ever done it, I went to do it again today and had an OK time on it. It is seldom traveled, but it has had a good cleaning and probably deserves a star. The rating felt right, and the gear was within reason this time. Just goes to show - that there are good and bad days both!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Out to Lunge (5.9 R)
By: Tony B When: Aug 23, 2015

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Comments: An ascent of this route should include P2 for full value. The pitch is significant, worthy, and fun.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : C'est La Vie (5.11)
By: Tony B When: Aug 23, 2015

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Comments: The most natural feeling way to do this thing at a moderate grade is to pass the first anchors and head up and right through the roof. But instead of the airy traverse to the set of anchors above P.S., 30' to your left, stay on the arete with occasional gear (5.8+, PG13), and head to the anchors at the top of P2's diherdral. It is a fun and very worthy var. that I had not done in over 10 years. A 70m rope is long enough to rap/lower from those to the belay ledge 20' up if you started from there.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Overhung Wall : Invisible Touch (5.12-)
By: Tony B When: Aug 13, 2015

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Comments: That system was used in other areas and guides instead of letters, for as long as you and I have been climbing and longer. In fact, it predates the use of letters in grades, as you should know after 43 years.
I.e. 5.9-, 5.9, 5.9+. Or i.e. 12-, 12, 12+ instead of 12a,b,c,d....
It is less specific in that case, subdivided into 3 grades instead of 4.

On THIS SITE, 12- is between 12a and 12b, and 12+ is between 12c and 12d, more or less in line with how I use it. This site is what is relevant her... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : Butt Luscious (5.11c)
By: Tony B When: Aug 13, 2015

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Comments: Richard,
Long time no see. I hope all is going well.

There is no point in changing what you wrote if that's your opinion and you own it and you're not beholden to anyone to change it. The consensus vote shows in the route a few lines down anyway. People can click "details" to see how that was arrived at.

Voices in disagreement are a valuable aspect of the data here. My ongoing discussion here has never been to attempt to get everyone on a single grade or page, it was to defend that the multipl... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Mariuolumne Area : Drug Dome : OZ (5.10d)
By: Tony B When: Aug 12, 2015

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Comments: Linking this route through to Middle Earth is a great run, and much more consistent in grade and nature of the climbing than linking to Hobbit Book. I'd advocate for that option if you want to continue in the 5.10 range. The climbing on Middle Earth is still quite good, though admittedly less traveled.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Ms. Fanny Le Pump (5.11c)
By: Tony B When: Aug 9, 2015

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Comments: VERY tough warm-up... crux right off of the ground and quite an A$$ kicker at that.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Eat Right (5.10c PG13)
By: Tony B When: Aug 9, 2015

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Comments: By wandering back and forth quite a bit between the 3 cracks in all, one may be able to skip the cruxes of all of the lines and reduce the grade to a 5.9 or 5.9-. We referred to this as 'Eat It All.'


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Othello (5.10)
By: Tony B When: Aug 9, 2015

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Comments: A little research has revealed that though the last few BoCan books have misplaced 'Othello' in terms of where it lies, that this is it.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : East Prow (5.9+)
By: Tony B When: Jul 27, 2015

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Comments: Yep, single large pieces are good enough, but sure, one #3 Camalot and one #4 Friend.
With a larger rack, you can do what we did and finish the whole thing in 4 long pitches with a 70m rope (and likely with a 60m) if you simul-climb the easy part on the 1st pitch. Casual 1/2 day.


Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Helen's Dome : Fractured Fairytales (5.7)
By: Tony B When: Jul 21, 2015

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Comments: ^^^ " Would anyone be especially offended if we went ahead and retro-bolted a couple of bolts for an anchor up there?"

Wow. Excellent troll.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Treasure Wall : Join The Party (5.9-)
By: Tony B When: Jul 15, 2015

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Comments: The large loose flakes have been removed. There is some dirt on the rock there now. It will take a few rains or a brush to clean it up, but you can climb around it just fine as well.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Ship's Prow : Scots on the Rocks (5.10a)
By: Tony B When: Jul 12, 2015

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Comments: Pretty good route. Although short, the (very) long approach and involved descent (The Loft) make doing this a pretty legit alpine day.
P1 is pretty mellow and is indeed a good 200' to the belay. I found the rock more solid going RIGHT after the hanging, pink flake and the grade more like 5.8, but it is well-protected.
P2 is probably 150' and not 180' and is sustained at a 5.8 or so grade but for 3 slightly harder moves.
P3 wanders a bit but use of slings can make this thing go smoothly. I had a... more >>


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