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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 13 hours ago
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Tony B
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Point Rank: # 6
Total Points: 23,205

508 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 16727 | Routes 1340 | Areas 130 | Approach Trails | Photos 1568 | Page Improvements 5 | Comments 1832 | Posts 5420 | Stars 3987 | Ratings 2445
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > The Solar Dome (aka Lightho... > Willie's Wake Up Call Girl (5.11c/d)
By: Tony B When: Aug 29, 2016

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Comments: Agreed - sharp and awkward.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > The Solar Dome (aka Lightho... > Baditude (5.10d)
By: Tony B When: Aug 29, 2016

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Comments: Jug haul climbing on holds I trusted just fine.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > The Bihedral Area > The Bihedral (Upper Tier) > Flesh Eating Flies (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: Aug 29, 2016

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Comments: The single star I give this route is for movement and for what this roue might be if it cleans up. Frankly, I had a no-star experience on it.

The movement on a good route should be the product of limited holds, not forced by the fear that other existing holds will shed out from under you. Furthermore, the 'excitement' of a route should be more about the ability to do the moves, not the gambling aspect of each move, wondering if, or not, the holds you did settle on will crumble or not.

... more >>


Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > Mt. Evans > The Black Wall > Rainbow Highway (5.10+)
By: Tony B When: Aug 14, 2016

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Comments: This route is getting quite popular (AKA: crowded).

The lower pitches are easier than rated, unless you are short - then it might be at grade. The crux 6th pitch is 10+ briefly and given to techy slab work. The route is indeed good and has a casual and fun feel to it most of the time but for when it gets 'alpine' on you. I was jamming up P3 when I hit the thistles growing in the crack "shit just got real." I laughed....

Along those lines, I'd give the climb 3 stars. There... more >>


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Indian Cove > Indian Cove Campground > Morbid Mound > DOA (5.8 X)
By: Tony B When: Aug 10, 2016

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Comments: That's a shame.
Hope there gets to be a 'gone' bolt soon.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Across from The Bihedral ak... > Fire and Rain (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Aug 9, 2016

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Comments: Why on earth traverse left? How about place an Alien under the flakes and lead the SOB directly up? It's 10b, and it's been done. I also cleaned off that 20 lb. loose flake above the Alien-protected roof.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Across from The Bihedral ak... > Smallville (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Aug 9, 2016

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Comments: It has much improved with age, having cleaned up quite a bit.


Location: Wyoming > Vedauwoo > Nat's Three Star Roof > Spin to Win (5.11 V3) > Photo
By: Tony B When: Aug 1, 2016

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Comments: Nice shoes! Seriously!


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Sleeping Beauty > Main Wall > Prince Charmer (5.9+)
By: Tony B When: Jul 28, 2016

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Comments: Has cleaned up quite a bit. The gear is reasonable. A light rack to 3". 1st and 3rd bolts would be for want of longer slings. Anchors at the top are 5' too high and thus across a long edge. Belay up top and rap, lowering is hard on the ropes. A 60m should get you down OK.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Sleeping Beauty > South Pillar > Water Spirit (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Jul 28, 2016

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Comments: Has cleaned up a little, and I put some more effort into that.

Would take gear from sm-med stoppers and cams from green Alien - blue Camalot. If you like lots of gear, then double up on cams 1.5-3".


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Sleeping Beauty > Main Wall > MLK (5.12a)
By: Tony B When: Jul 24, 2016

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Comments: If you are below 6', the moves are going to be proportionally harder here and there.

If you are below 6', several of the clips are going to be even more proportionally difficult.

If you are anything between 5'0 and 6'6", however, the ledge fall from the crux headwall onto the flake/ledge is pretty much (if not precisely) the same... and if you are short, you'll likely blow the clip and fall from up there with that much more rope out.

Ditto the above for me. I was one ... more >>


Location: Wyoming > Grand Teton National Park > Death Canyon > Cathedral Buttress > Sunshine Daydream (5.11-)
By: Tony B When: Jul 15, 2016

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Comments: 4-star climbing on what is occasionally 2-star rock.
3 stars over-all, considering the detractors.

The route is pretty good and might have been better if I'd done the bolted face climb P4 instead of the crack P4, which, BTW, is probably more like 5.9 than 10 (or even 10-).
Don't let the grade intimidate you. The feet and fingerlocks are mostly good on the crux pitch and it is pretty well protected in any area of objective difficulty. The crux is just not pumping out and with good phy... more >>


Location: Wyoming > Grand Teton National Park > Disappointment Peak > Open Book (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Jul 15, 2016

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Comments: Of all the routes we did in the Tetons, this one was the least impressive.
It basically amounts to a 3 pitch climb. After the 1st pitch, the remaining are short pitches broken up by ledges or slabs.
1) P1, glassy 5.9 crux at the bottom.
2) P2/3, 5.9-, short pitches run together.
3) P4-6, including "5.9+" crux option that felt like 5.8.

Indeed the top 'seldom done' wide pitch didn't look to add much quality, so we walked off the back and planned another day.

Nice outing, b... more >>


Location: Wyoming > Grand Teton National Park > Death Canyon > Cathedral Buttress > Caveat Emptor (5.10)
By: Tony B When: Jul 15, 2016

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Comments: Best route of those we did in the Tetons, better than Snaz (way better) or Sunshine Daydream, not to mention Open Book...
Each pitch, strung together a bit, is 5.10 and high quality.


Location: Wyoming > Grand Teton National Park > Death Canyon > Cathedral Buttress > The Snaz (5.10a)
By: Tony B When: Jul 15, 2016

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Comments: Good Route over all, and improved by taking the 5.10 variations on Snazeat (P4) and Leroy's uncle's Brother (P7).
Best linking we found:
0) Solo the approach pitch to the belay at the base of P1 (40' + walk, 5.5)
1) Link P1/2 (190', 5.7)
2) Snazeat to the diagonal (120', 5.10)
3) From Snazeat to the top of P5, original crux. (180' 5.9+)
4 &5) Frankly, I forget it - it frankly wasn't that memorable, but you can link more pitches

Regardless,
Finish with the 'Cousi... more >>


Location: Idaho > South Idaho > City of Rocks > Gallstone, The > No Pun Intended (5.8)
By: Tony B When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: Mileage, I guess. Ho hum. Even in tennis shoes we did not find any 5.10 though... Grade similar to the arête to the left, in my opinion.


Location: Idaho > South Idaho > City of Rocks > Building Blocks > Building Blocks - West > Scraps (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: Bottom and middle crux are bolt protected. Gear sections are maybe 5.9 or so. Sport climbers with a few cams and nuts can go for this one.


Location: Idaho > South Idaho > City of Rocks > Building Blocks > Building Blocks - West > Acid Rain (5.10a R)
By: Tony B When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: If you have gear, it is neither 'R' nor PG.


Location: Idaho > South Idaho > City of Rocks > Building Blocks > Building Blocks - West > Lego (5.10a PG13)
By: Tony B When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: Yep. Punch it directly up the arête for a 3star lead.


Location: Idaho > South Idaho > City of Rocks > Anteater Rock > Anteater - East > Circus Direct (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: If it isn't 'that bad' it is at least close. Actual difficulty depends on what sheds off on you and what, to your surprise, holds. Maybe easier for climbers below 22 pounds.


Location: Idaho > South Idaho > City of Rocks > Anteater Rock > Anteater - East > Circus Roof (5.10c)
By: Tony B When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: Could have been a classic were it a full pitch. Still fun though, and very 'blue collar'.


Location: Idaho > South Idaho > City of Rocks > Anteater Rock > Anteater - West > Scream Cheese (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: Meh. One move that gets your attention. The arête next door (left) is actually better climbing if you ask me.


Location: Idaho > South Idaho > City of Rocks > Anteater Rock > Anteater - West > Swiss Cheese (5.7 R)
By: Tony B When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: Gear isn't actually an issue. A nut and large cam, a few bolts, hand sized cams, then various options to top out.


Location: Idaho > South Idaho > City of Rocks > Anteater Rock > Anteater - West > She Bop (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: One move to get into the crack, then quite easy.


Location: Idaho > South Idaho > City of Rocks > Morning Glory Spire > Morning Glory (5.10c/d)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: Good mostly for its length. You can do it P1 and then P2-3 linked if you like. Single-rope rap on a 70M easily puts you from the summit to the base of Skyline.


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