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Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb getting out of the overhang pockets and ...


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
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Tony B
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Point Rank: # 6
Total Points: 24,851
Last Year: 853
Last 30 Days: 156
462 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 16303 | Routes 1329 | Areas 129 | Photos 1550 | Page Improvements 5 | Comments 1861 | Posts 5141 | Stars 3913 | Ratings 2375
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Olympic Swimmer (5.7)
By: Tony B When: Nov 15, 2015

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Comments: Seems like 5.5 or 5.6 to me. The variation to the left makes it 5.7-, perhaps.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Pool Skimmer (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Nov 15, 2015

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Comments: Seriously over-graded. 5.7 for one move at the bottom and one move near the top.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : East Blob : ... : A Hike With Ludwig Dude (5.10a PG13)
By: Tony B When: Nov 15, 2015

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Comments: Furthermore, there is also a bomb-proof #1 Camalot placement (or I presume #2.5 Friend, but maybe a #2) in a small, horizontal "pocket" toward the top if you can find that exact spot. Since the climbing is slightly nebulous, you may or may not find this. I did, but my partner at first did not until taking a second lap on the climb.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Fourth Flatiron : ... : Photo
By: Tony B When: Nov 10, 2015

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Comments: That's pretty nutty. You won't see me threading something like that, let alone hanging on it. Pulling it will put an odd vibrating load on that pin that could leave it suspect/loose for the next party even if it holds you.

In short: "Keep it up, and yer' gonna die."


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : The Sacred Cliffs : Photo
By: Tony B When: Nov 5, 2015

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Comments: Boulder County Open Space Calendar....
Front Cover for 2016. There you have it!
Rock Climbing Photo: County Open Space 2016 calendar.
County Open Space 2016 calendar.



Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Emerald City : No Place Like Home (5.11c)
By: Tony B When: Nov 3, 2015

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Comments: TR Hero, to answer your question:
If you can reach the bolts, you are on route.
And it is not unusual for a route to be height or arm-length dependent.
Nice work on climbing it, was it fun?


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Medusa
By: Tony B When: Nov 3, 2015

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Comments: This crag is indeed signed for raptor closures now, from Feb. 1-Aug. 1.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Stepping Stones (5.8 PG13)
By: Tony B When: Nov 1, 2015

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Comments: If you try to force P1 too directly, being in a bulge just below the most obvious section of dihedral, the climbing in certainly R-rated and probably 5.10 or so. The route dodges about a bit.

I can't image in 5.8 leader being psyched on this route, BTW, but it is good for more advanced climbers.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : The Sacred Cliffs : Photo
By: Tony B When: Nov 1, 2015

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Comments: Steve,
Yeah, they grow in most higher altitude areas around here. You find them in the upper areas on the less sunny places. I also see them a lot up in the Park.

Datura is growing all over Potash Road, and nobody seems to have noticed, but I guess most people shouldn't F with that stuff anyway. ACh is not a neurotransmitter you want too many analogs of running around in your system. Not that GABA is a great idea, but it's less likely to stop your heart.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Spare Rib (5.8)
By: Tony B When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: Not quite as good and clean as Crimson, but similar climbing in the same area.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Poland Hill : Overload (5.9) : Photo
By: Tony B When: Oct 22, 2015

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Comments: Could be. It was a scanned slide.
I guess my buddy wanted to do it Right Side in for once.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : Lightning Bolt Arete (5.11b)
By: Tony B When: Oct 11, 2015

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Comments: Pin is getting old, and if it blows, you are screwed. You can place a blue or green Alien right above it, but you kind of need that hold for fingers.... Damned if you do, damned if you don't.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : Iron Cross (5.11b)
By: Tony B When: Oct 11, 2015

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Comments: Pretty tough at the grade in the book (11a) and on pretty poor footholds. Frankly, I thought Lightning Bolt Arete (11b) was both easier and better. Wear your stiffer edging shoes, and DO NOT do this route in the heat. Also, take a little chalk.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Third Buttress : Frequency Modulation (5.11+)
By: Tony B When: Oct 9, 2015

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Comments: This route is already covered on this site and has been for 15 years right here:
mountainproject.com/v/fm/10575...
Perhaps merge this entry as a comment.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty : Main Wall : Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid (5.10c)
By: Tony B When: Oct 8, 2015

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Comments: Mark Roth.
Report bad bolts here:
boulderclimbers.org/what-does-...
and they will get replaced by one of our volunteers.

Support the BCC when you can. Although we do provide volunteers with only top-quality hardware (Climbtech 316-series stainless steel), the bolts are not free!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Charlie Horse Needle : Sims-Hesse-Hanning Route (5.11)
By: Tony B When: Oct 5, 2015

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Comments: Good tower for a hot day. All shaded on this route.
The anchors on the top of the "P4" pitch are terrible.
If you rap off of these you will end up with PTSD.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Moses : Dunn Route (5.11-)
By: Tony B When: Oct 5, 2015

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Comments: Great route if Primrose is to hot/sunny.
In that final tunnel-through, go low or high, one or the other.
Walking straight back on the obvious foot ledge just got me stuck...


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Arena (aka Contender Wa... : First Round (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Sep 29, 2015

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Comments: Red Camalot placement is obvious and solid but hardly needed. The climbing at that point is on good holds, and the distance between the bolts is not very big.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Arena (aka Contender Wa... : Standing Eight Count (5.11b)
By: Tony B When: Sep 29, 2015

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Comments: Better be 5'10" or taller to keep it at the grade near the top. The long reach right could turn into a dyno for shorter folks.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Moses : Pale Fire (5.12b) : Photo
By: Tony B When: Sep 28, 2015

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Comments: I think that the comment referred more to the clip with lack of nylon than to the fact that all are clipped. The lack of a draw might actually increase the risk of rope damage and/or ripping a bolt. Probably not a huge difference though.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Turkey Foot Crack (5.10a)
By: Tony B When: Sep 7, 2015

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Comments: P1 anchor at 120' could probably use some fresh cord/webbing as of 9/2015. We cut away 3 strands that were reduced to fuzz or torn/chewwed over 1/2 way through, then checked the rest, which is aging. Didn't have a piece long enough to go around the rock with us, however.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Astro Turkey (5.11b)
By: Tony B When: Sep 7, 2015

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Comments: PLEASE NOTE: the tree you can sling has pried the flake of granite that holds it in a good way off of the wall. I'd think twice about putting a sling on this. If you fall and take out the tree and that flake, you or your belayer could be in serious peril.
There is a so-so stopper just left, then an excellent 2-2.5" cam (red or green Camalot) just a few moves higher that would be so much safer....


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Astro Turkey (5.11b)
By: Tony B When: Sep 7, 2015

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Comments: Pi Anchor webbing freshly refurbished 9/15. Cut away a ton of junk so littered you couldn't clip the bolts! Now a clean single anchor (but knotted/independent/redundant) that will need a second or replacement line in the future.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Standard Route (5.11- R)
By: Tony B When: Sep 7, 2015

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Comments: The hard part of the 5.11 path for P2/P3 (second pitch, but off of the 3rd anchor) isn't really R-rated. It is hard, but you have safe gear when the climbing is tough.


Location: CA : Tahoe : I-80 Corridor : Donner/Truckee : Donner Pass Road : ... : Peter Principle (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: Sep 3, 2015

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Comments: Reasonably recent, as I had never noticed it before. I flagged it as inappropriate due to the language and bigotry in it (not directed at me, but who cares?) One of the oritional replies (what would have been the first) was also pretty gruff, and apparently that has also been removed.
I am indifferent to the grading +/- one letter. There is no ire in that. It's a stat. I think you misunderstand the point I was trying to make. Consensus rules for sure and the point I was trying to get to was ... more >>


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