REI Community
search


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
Contact Tony B

Tony B
is a member of
Point Rank: # 8
Total Points: 21,745

487 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Tony B been climbing?










Contributions


All 16607 | Routes 1333 | Areas 129 | Photos 1569 | Page Improvements 5 | Comments 1902 | Posts 5295 | Stars 3960 | Ratings 2414
Page 3 of 77.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Semi-Wild (5.9+ R)
By: Tony B When: Nov 12, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Some wasps on it, but they are NOT nesting and not aggressive. I just shooed them off and out of the cracks, placing gear right where they were on occasion (one here and there for 40'). I think they like the dark rock in fall/winter there.

The runout is really not so bad anywhere that the climbing is 5.8 or harder. The crux protects on small stoppers and an Alien or two within 10' of a secure stance post-crux.

The climb can be done in 3 pitches ground to... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Jamcrack Spire : Southeast Chimney (5.5)
By: Tony B When: Nov 1, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: To descend, you can also scramble Northward and down East from the summit about 80 below the top, aiming for a notch on the north most rib of rock by a line of junipers.

You go around the notch to the north, and it's a walk off down to the trail South of the Maiden.

It is the dark chimney left of center in the google earth photo here.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Rastafarian (5.9+)
By: Tony B When: Nov 1, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Above the top of the crack on P2, where the climb 'forces' you to the right, you CAN keep going directly up to the belay. The moves are steep and a little more insecure. Gear is not exactly great, but it is there, and the climbing is not super-human. Maybe 10d or 11-? Maybe PG-13?

Anyway, a mere mortal can do it, and I'm a bit surprised it has not been done/documented. It might deserve a bolt.

I'd call it &#... more >>


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Finger Lickin' Good (5.10c/d)
By: Tony B When: Oct 30, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Great crack with difficulty being dependent on finger size. Could be 10-, could be 10+.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Southern Comfort (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Oct 30, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: A variation called 'Northern Comfort' is a fun way to keep this route in the 5.9 range a little longer.

P1. Climb P1 up into the corner to the right of the overhanging flake and belay off of hand-sized gear (120').

P2. Break left onto semi-positive face holds (5.8-), and climb up with occasional nuts or Aliens up and right, then go up a handrcrack with good gear up and left to the summit (70') (FA: Croft, Hall Ch... more >>


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Southern Comfort (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Oct 30, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: P1 is a little slick, both for hands and feet. It felt like 5.9+ as a warm-up.
This route can easily be done in 2 pitches and probably as one pitch with not much difficulty. Clip a 3' sling on the first 'belay', and continue through the traverse up and right to the right under the giant flake below then up into the corner. You can belay there to stop and the break back left to finish on 5.9 as 'Northern Comfort&@POUN... more >>


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Leftovers : Too Much Crack (5.10-)
By: Tony B When: Oct 30, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Yep - this goes as 1 pitch with a 70m, or for that matter, with a 60m with 20' of 5.4 simul-climbing to a ledge from the base.
As for the top, if you step slightly left after the crack runs out, you can get a good stopper and Alien, then back right, the climbing is no harder than 5.8 (if that) and only for a move or two if done by the easiest sequence, then it comes back up and right on positive, if not incut holds for both hands and feet to the top. PG-13, I think. Maybe R o... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : The Offset (5.9+ R)
By: Tony B When: Oct 16, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The Levin book describes the line as 'Exquisite', and I had to figure out what that means, for such a short pitch to get 3 *s in such a stacked area. It means technical and sequential on small holds, but yeah, it's pretty good, but not so much in 80 deg temps in the sun. Do it on a slightly more 'crisp' day when your hands stick and shoes are stiffer.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Skink's Lip (5.10 X)
By: Tony B When: Oct 16, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Maybe you only climb the left crack, as per the comment above, but even eschewing the right one, there is still protection. The route is really no more so runout than 'The Offset' I don't think, and so it's probably 'R' not 'X'. In fact, I think the hardest move is closer to gear, and the crux shorter, though yeah, is a tiny bit harder.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Matron : Quiche on a Leash (5.10c)
By: Tony B When: Oct 8, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Scary chockstone wedged by crumbling arete was pretty ready to go. Going, going, gone.... We cleaned it. Maybe 100+ lbs?

The low crux is a bit dirty right now on the feet. Multiple small nuts and cams are at waist or higher and more or less keep you on TR there. The higher cruxes are more interesting, less slick, and also maybe 10a. Pretty good route, overall.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Matron : ... : Photo
By: Tony B When: Oct 8, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Presently, that is the crux of the route, as the lower section has been 'slimed' by the crows in this years nest, and it makes the feet there a bit slick. The rest of the route is in good shape.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Sons of Yesterday (5.10-)
By: Tony B When: Oct 2, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: P1/2 and P3/4 can both be linked for a 3-pitch outing on this one. Take some extra red/yellow camalots if doing so, however.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cathedral Spires Area : Middle Cathedral Rock : Kor-Beck (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Oct 2, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Indeed, the whole route is a very different experience than the initial part of it. Adventure climbers will enjoy it, those accustomed to clear route paths, accurate topos, and great gear in clean great rock will not always be enamored of the possibilities that they are presented with beyond the bolted belays.
That said, I still enjoyed the route.
The 5.9 grade is a little sandbagged for P1-6, and perhaps more sandbagged if you do the whole route, in which case 5.10- (at least) is fair.


Location: Utah : Zion National Park : Lady Mountain : Original Route (5.4)
By: Tony B When: Sep 18, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Soloed this in 1995 - a guy up top scoffed at me as I arrived, having seen me on the way up: "They have a trail up here, you know..." (shaking his head).


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : Sunlight Arete (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Sep 17, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: No better or worse than 'Useless One' to the right. They can indeed be done as completely different and isolated routes but are more naturally blended with a few shared moves.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : Useless One (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Sep 17, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The route has cleaned up well enough, I guess. The initial placement is pretty high if you eschew the bolts down low for a trad route.... Then lots of gear but slightly flaky rock in a few spots. Not unsafe by any means.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : Where's Bob? (5.10a/b)
By: Tony B When: Sep 17, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: A single placement between 0.75" and 2" will be had between the last and second to last bolt if you feel that you want/need that. The climbing there is easier and, unless you are short, not very committing. If you take any given cam in that range, you ought to be able to find a placement for it. If you take the whole range, you could pack them all in there.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : My Way (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Sep 17, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: P.S. Boulder Slips is NOT dangerous if you take extra yellow Aliens and 1.5-2" (or green Camalot) cams It's absuurd to say it, and maybe it is 'independent' of the original line of Boulder Slips and Jim did that, however....

Given that Boulder Slips can climb the left or right options up top via cracks on lead from the ground (and having done both), it is crystal clear that this route indeed added bolts to the reach-zon... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : Boulder Slips (5.9 R)
By: Tony B When: Sep 17, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I can't justify giving this an R. I only offer PG-13 in acknowledgement of the SUBJECTIVE possibility of runouts for those carrying a light rack. At the crux, I had 5 placements (yeah, that's a game for me) that I thought were "b" or better just before stepping left under the roof. Up higher I realized that I could get what was likely a yellow Alien or green Camalot (or maybe also a few red Aliens) every 6 feet or so. Seriousl... more >>


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Photo
By: Tony B When: Sep 16, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Cool. I've never seen one before!


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Neon Lights (5.11a R)
By: Tony B When: Sep 12, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: As per the note above abut a yellow Alien in solid rock - yeah, maybe, but it just blew out on Saturday and that's changed. So don't count on that at this point. I went for the route again after running a trail race with no warm up and couldn't get my feet high. I jumped off from a few feet above that cam and ended up taking a 40' fall when it went out.

Luckily, I'd told my partner I expected tha... more >>


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : The Sun : Better Lock Next Time (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Sep 5, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Double cams is sufficient, triples in hand size is OK too, you can use 2 red/yellow Camalots if you take them.
A few notes:

P1. Run P1/2 into a 68m pitch as described.

P2. Run P3 into P4 (P2 and 3 as described). Put a long runner on the first 2 placements up in the 10b pitch so that the rope does not wrap on that corner, and then you'll be fine. Pass the low saddle on the left, and continue to the higher belay ledge on the right. This is larger and more comfy - also out of ... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : North : The Fin : Thinquisition (5.8 X)
By: Tony B When: Sep 4, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This climb can be TR'd or led/followed with reasonable anchors. If you don't want to lead, you can rap into them or climb the moderate E Face to get to each station and TR the pitch below (lower and TR, as this is too long to really rap from).

P1: 5.5, ~160' to small tree East of ledge, or to 4" diameter branches from a ground-based tree that overhang the formation's ridge. A #2 Camalot fits in ... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty : Lost Highway Area : Lost Highway (5.10c)
By: Tony B When: Aug 30, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: On P3, instead of swinging left to avoid the roofs, you can clip the last bolt prior to them and then go directly upward on underclings and kneebars over the roof and to the anchor. You skip the 2nd to last and perhaps last bolt this way, but it's very good climbing and not runout. It is probably a shave harder than the given 10c grade. Maybe 10d/11a?


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Solar Dome (aka Lightho... : Photo
By: Tony B When: Aug 29, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The white line in this photo is The Tanning Block, not Lickstick Sunset. L.S. is correctly labeled below in yellow on the photo.


Page 3 of 77.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About