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Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb getting out of the overhang pockets and ...


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
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Tony B
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Point Rank: # 6
Total Points: 24,850
Last Year: 878
Last 30 Days: 210
461 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 16299 | Routes 1329 | Areas 129 | Photos 1550 | Page Improvements 5 | Comments 1860 | Posts 5138 | Stars 3913 | Ratings 2375
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: ID : City of Rocks : Building Blocks : Building Blocks - West : Scraps (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: Bottom and middle crux are bolt protected. Gear sections are maybe 5.9 or so. Sport climbers with a few cams and nuts can go for this one.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Building Blocks : Building Blocks - West : Acid Rain (5.10a R)
By: Tony B When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: If you have gear, it is neither 'R' nor PG.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Building Blocks : Building Blocks - West : Lego (5.10a PG13)
By: Tony B When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: Yep. Punch it directly up the arête for a 3star lead.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Anteater Rock : Anteater - East : Circus Direct (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: If it isn't 'that bad' it is at least close. Actual difficulty depends on what sheds off on you and what, to your surprise, holds. Maybe easier for climbers below 22 pounds.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Anteater Rock : Anteater - East : Circus Roof (5.10c)
By: Tony B When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: Could have been a classic were it a full pitch. Still fun though, and very 'blue collar'.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Anteater Rock : Anteater - West : Scream Cheese (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: Meh. One move that gets your attention. The arête next door (left) is actually better climbing if you ask me.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Anteater Rock : Anteater - West : Swiss Cheese (5.7 R)
By: Tony B When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: Gear isn't actually an issue. A nut and large cam, a few bolts, hand sized cams, then various options to top out.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Anteater Rock : Anteater - West : She Bop (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: One move to get into the crack, then quite easy.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire : Morning Glory (5.10c/d)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: Good mostly for its length. You can do it P1 and then P2-3 linked if you like. Single-rope rap on a 70M easily puts you from the summit to the base of Skyline.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Rabbit Rock : Rabbit Rock - Southwest : Redtail (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: Good, and impressive for it's length, but not the best route around.
Also a 70M gets you to a 5.4 downclimb flake. It's not so complicated.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Rabbit Rock : Rabbit Rock - Northeast : Roadkill (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: Yep - rap or lower with a 70M.
Slab climbing on GOOD rock here, not crumbles like some "classics" and the rest of the climb is great too. Cams and nuts to 3".


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - East : One Step Beyond (5.11+)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: I guess it gets harder every time someone tries it, because the beta I tried didn't work for me, and those holds are not there any more.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - East : Expect No Mercy (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: Would be classic if longer. What is this pocket/flake business? Red River Gorge in Granite?


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - East : Destroy all Planets (5.10a R)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: Runout is OK, and a touch of bad rock is OK, but not at the same time.
This line has both at the sandbag opening... 1-star at most.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Animal Cracker Rock : Animal Cracker (5.10a)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: A bit thuggy at the crux, but all in good fun.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Parking Lot Rock - East : Funky Bolt (5.9 R)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: PG-13 seems more fair. The crux isn't R, and the fall is not a grounder or ledge fall... so yeah, it's not too bad. Caution merited though.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Super Hits - Bloody Fingers : Double Vision (5.10a R)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: Some scary fall potential, yes, but scary is different than dangerous.
If you blew a clip you could hit the ground with an inattentive belayer, but the climbing is protected better than that and PG is fair, but 'R' is really overstating it.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Upper Breadloaves - East : Catwalk (5.8 PG13)
By: Tony B When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: I think I might be starting to notice a pattern whereas the guidebook gives extra stars to poorly protected sandbags. I do like the route, but 3*'s int he book is generous, and the ankle busting potential on P1 was harder than 5.8...
Perhaps it depends on where you start, but I started in the seam with the 2 pin scars.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Poison Ivy Dome : Poison Ivy (5.5)
By: Tony B When: Jun 5, 2016

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Comments: A good solo, because the namesake plant is 2/3 the way up the route and can be climbed around, but your rope would surely get in it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Solar Dome (aka Lightho... : Morning Sunshine (5.7)
By: Tony B When: Jun 5, 2016

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Comments: One move wonder yes... but still only 5.4.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Solar Dome (aka Lightho... : Walking On The Sun (5.12a/b)
By: Tony B When: Jun 5, 2016

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Comments: Good roue with a few thin holds, then a hard long move. Tough climbing but fun.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Solar Dome (aka Lightho... : Nimby (5.6)
By: Tony B When: Jun 5, 2016

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Comments: Mostly positive holds & climbing. Better and more interesting than it looks from the ground.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Challenger : S.C.R.U.B. (5.10a)
By: Tony B When: May 13, 2016

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Comments: 1 each Camalot: old #4, new #4, new #5.

Up top you can use anything from a #2-#4 for the belay, as the further from the front you are, the narrower the crack.

Difficulty will depend on how straight-on you go for it.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Blue Gramma Cliff : Left of 5.10 Flake (5.10+)
By: Tony B When: Mar 29, 2016

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Comments: Pulling the roof is and-size dependent... harder than 5.10+ if the slot is too big to fist-stack!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Blue Gramma Cliff : Blue Gramma (5.11)
By: Tony B When: Mar 29, 2016

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Comments: A directional camalot (C4) I put in and left for a TR got pivoted and walked upward on Sunday. Absent a tool to get a hold of it, it was not able to be removed by us.
If you get it out with a nut tool, congratulations. If you feel generous, please contact me to return it and I would greatly appreciate that.


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