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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
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Tony B
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Point Rank: # 8
Total Points: 21,745

487 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



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All 16607 | Routes 1333 | Areas 129 | Photos 1569 | Page Improvements 5 | Comments 1902 | Posts 5295 | Stars 3960 | Ratings 2414
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Long Wall : Perforator (5.10a)
By: Tony B When: Apr 17, 2017

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Comments: I remember someone once asking me about a different climb:
Q: "So it's 5.9+, but it is wet, what rating would it get?"
A: "I dunno. Wet 5.9."

Sounds like you got on a wet 5.10a. On a friction-dependent crux, it might be anywhere between 5.10a and impossible.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Shanahan Crag : Great Expectations (5.9-)
By: Tony B When: Apr 9, 2017

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Comments: This climb is a bit scruffy and does wander a bit. I felt it was more like 5.9, but I suppose that may be dependent upon your exact path and what holds you are willing to chance using well above gear.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : Diffraction (5.10a/b)
By: Tony B When: Apr 2, 2017

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Comments: There are yellow-jackets in the crack just below the crux in sufficient quantity to believe that they are resident. I was able to avoid them and they are not on the chalked holds, but beware so as not to be surprised. They were not aggressive, but they were most certainly watching closely!


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Pebble Beach : Brontosaurus (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Apr 1, 2017

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Comments: The old guidebook said something to the effect of "from an era when brawn was in, but brains were out." I always found that description amusing.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Cave Pitch (5.8)
By: Tony B When: Mar 19, 2017

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Comments: A #4 Friend is not necessary, per se, but not knowing where to place it?
Seems to me that you are never more than a foot from a bomber 4" placement if you are looking. A #3 Camalot can be walked up between narrower sections of the crack, but a #4 is probably ideal other than that you don't really need it again thereafter.


Location: Colorado : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Tiara Rado : Disappear/Reappear (5.11-)
By: Tony B When: Mar 19, 2017

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Comments: Good route. Tough start if you are not warmed up, followed by a thin balancy crux at mid-route. Slightly softer stone than Indian Creek but still good.


Location: Colorado : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Tiara Rado : 100' Hands (5.10a/b)
By: Tony B When: Mar 19, 2017

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Comments: Pretty good route. A bit of a "butt crack" as it flares outward at the edge and keeps you slightly off balance. Pretty blue-collar but fun.


Location: Colorado : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Sentinel Spire
By: Tony B When: Mar 19, 2017

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Comments: So what is the wide crack left of Fast Draw?
It would apparently go ground-up, and you would not even need to start in on Fast Draw to the pin/bolt traverse that reaches it from near the mid-climb belay.
Any ideas?


Location: Colorado : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Sentinel Spire : Medicine Man (5.12a)
By: Tony B When: Mar 19, 2017

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Comments: Why stop at the intermediate belay? Well, I tell you what - the next "pitch" is not that hard, but if you start it pumped, it's going to be a rough ride. I was able to do both free but only after hanging out to recover after the pump on P2.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Solar Dome (aka Lightho... : Ice Hose Chopper Lunch Mob (5.11-)
By: Tony B When: Mar 16, 2017

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Comments: Mark,
Thanks for the info. I have amended the route description with this.
As for the grade, This one is likely quite height/reach-dependent.
Aside of the general subjectivity of grades overall, I try to fairly account for my rather abnormal wingspan....
"If you can't reach this, then you might also find the opening moves harder than 11-."
So I won't quibble a bit about the grade.

Thanks for the info.


Location: Colorado : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Tiara Rado : First Impressions (5.10-)
By: Tony B When: Mar 13, 2017

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Comments: Tune in to the sandy feet on slopers here before leading this one.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Wall of Winter Warmth : Regular Route [WWW] (5.8 PG13)
By: Tony B When: Mar 5, 2017

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Comments: P1 deserves a single star, but it has a swallow/woodrat problem (poo and urates). P2 is not worth climbing at all.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Wigwam Dome : Ramblin' Rose (5.10)
By: Tony B When: Feb 16, 2017

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Comments: This indeed goes in 4 pitches if you like to run them together. Just don't link the roof traverse into the crux, the drag is tough up there with no holds.
Link the crux pitch to above instead!
P1 through the roofs.
P2 to belay below the crux.
P3 the crux and beyond, as far as you can take it, at least 2 pitches.
P4 top out.


Location: Utah : Saint George : Snow Canyon State Park
By: Tony B When: Feb 7, 2017

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Comments: The directions were written in 2003.
It seems possible that some road was added and that you are not taking Hwy 8 anymore.
If anyone wants to re-write a precise set of directions, they can "suggest an improvement" (there is a button for that) and enter the text that they feel is correct.


Location: Asia : East Asia : Taiwan : Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : (8) Golden Valley : ... : Photo
By: Tony B When: Feb 6, 2017

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Comments: Too bad about the retro-bolts. It looks like trad climbing might not survive there much longer, considering that was an obvious gear-route. What is "off limits" there? Nothing?


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Hammerhead : Yodeling Moves (5.0)
By: Tony B When: Jan 31, 2017

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Comments: The rap anchor is unlikely to be desirable for more than another season. Please consider taking up dark cord or webbing to back it up or replace it.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Labor Dome : Toil & Trouble (5.7)
By: Tony B When: Jan 23, 2017

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Comments: Could this be "Part-Timer"? FA: T. Bubb and J. Dubrowski, 12/26/2002
Part Timer has been on the site since we did it in 2002 and my memory is not as distinct as it was 15 years ago, but I do recall going left under, then back right above a horizontal flake over a left-facing corner and that is how we described the route.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : A Cut Above (5.12a)
By: Tony B When: Dec 6, 2016

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Comments: Ken,
Thanks for the info. The route description has been amended to include your notes, paraphrased slightly for tone. If that seems adequate, you can take or leave your comment, as you please, but I thought it best to put that in the description, not just comments below.


Location: Colorado : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Acrophile : ... : Photo
By: Tony B When: Nov 26, 2016

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Comments: Hmmm. doesn't look as steep from this angle, does it? Nice shot from the top reveals a lot more! Nice pics!


Location: Colorado : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Acrophile : ... : Photo
By: Tony B When: Nov 26, 2016

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Comments: Nice shot. I keep telling people what a great pitch that is and what a massive roof it really is, but nobody goes for it. Glad to see it got some attention!


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Helen's Dome : Face Value (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Nov 21, 2016

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Comments: Yep, rapping on a 70m is just fine. Makes it with a meter or two to spare to the flake, then a meter or two extra on the ramp system at the base as well. An 80m would almost reach the bolt anchor, but as has been said, it's not sketch to go off and walk over.


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : ... : Photo
By: Tony B When: Nov 17, 2016

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Comments: Must be from Pervertical then. Thanks!


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : North : East Ironing Board : Que Rasca (5.7 R)
By: Tony B When: Nov 16, 2016

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Comments: Harder and less solid than Smooth or Smoother. This will get your attention and keep it at the cruxes.


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Funk Rock City : Hardcore Jollies (5.12a)
By: Tony B When: Nov 15, 2016

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Comments: Jack,

Although I don't take you for serious to quibble about a single letter grade, it is an interesting question with regards to this rock.

Yeah, I've upgraded plenty too, about the same number as downgraded.
I formed my opinions about RRG when I was a local there in the early 90's. (Before climbing in Eldo).

Here is the history as I recall it, from when I was climbing, Primarily with Lynn, but a bit around with the rest of the guys... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Anthill Direct (5.9- R)
By: Tony B When: Nov 12, 2016

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Comments: Can be and might best be done as 3 pitches total from the ground to summit.
P1 to bolted belay on ramp, P2 to just under first roof on AHD, P3 to summit slabs. P2 requires a 70m rope if done to the best belay, or simul-climbing. A gear belay higher on the ramp makes it possible with a 60m. Top pitch might also get close to 60m or longer depending on where you want to belay.


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