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Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb getting out of the overhang pockets and ...


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Tony B
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 16291 | Routes 1329 | Areas 129 | Photos 1550 | Page Improvements 5 | Comments 1860 | Posts 5130 | Stars 3913 | Ratings 2375
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : My Way (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Sep 17, 2016

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Comments: P.S. Boulder Slips is NOT dangerous if you take extra yellow Aliens and 1.5-2" (or green Camalot) cams It's absuurd to say it, and maybe it is 'independent' of the original line of Boulder Slips and Jim did that, however....

Given that Boulder Slips can climb the left or right options up top via cracks on lead from the ground (and having done both), it is crystal clear that this route indeed added bolts to the reach-zon... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : Boulder Slips (5.9 R)
By: Tony B When: Sep 17, 2016

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Comments: I can't justify giving this an R. I only offer PG-13 in acknowledgement of the SUBJECTIVE possibility of runouts for those carrying a light rack. At the crux, I had 5 placements (yeah, that's a game for me) that I thought were "b" or better just before stepping left under the roof. Up higher I realized that I could get what was likely a yellow Alien or green Camalot (or maybe also a few red Aliens) every 6 feet or so. Seriousl... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Photo
By: Tony B When: Sep 16, 2016

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Comments: Cool. I've never seen one before!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Neon Lights (5.11a R)
By: Tony B When: Sep 12, 2016

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Comments: As per the note above abut a yellow Alien in solid rock - yeah, maybe, but it just blew out on Saturday and that's changed. So don't count on that at this point. I went for the route again after running a trail race with no warm up and couldn't get my feet high. I jumped off from a few feet above that cam and ended up taking a 40' fall when it went out.

Luckily, I'd told my partner I expected tha... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : The Sun : Better Lock Next Time (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Sep 5, 2016

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Comments: Double cams is sufficient, triples in hand size is OK too, you can use 2 red/yellow Camalots if you take them.
A few notes:

P1. Run P1/2 into a 68m pitch as described.

P2. Run P3 into P4 (P2 and 3 as described). Put a long runner on the first 2 placements up in the 10b pitch so that the rope does not wrap on that corner, and then you'll be fine. Pass the low saddle on the left, and continue to the higher belay ledge on the right. This is larger and more comfy - also out of ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : The Fin : Thinquisition (5.8 X)
By: Tony B When: Sep 4, 2016

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Comments: This climb can be TR'd or led/followed with reasonable anchors. If you don't want to lead, you can rap into them or climb the moderate E Face to get to each station and TR the pitch below (lower and TR, as this is too long to really rap from).

P1: 5.5, ~160' to small tree East of ledge, or to 4" diameter branches from a ground-based tree that overhang the formation's ridge. A #2 Camalot fits in ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty : Lost Highway Area : Lost Highway (5.10c)
By: Tony B When: Aug 30, 2016

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Comments: On P3, instead of swinging left to avoid the roofs, you can clip the last bolt prior to them and then go directly upward on underclings and kneebars over the roof and to the anchor. You skip the 2nd to last and perhaps last bolt this way, but it's very good climbing and not runout. It is probably a shave harder than the given 10c grade. Maybe 10d/11a?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Solar Dome (aka Lightho... : Photo
By: Tony B When: Aug 29, 2016

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Comments: The white line in this photo is The Tanning Block, not Lickstick Sunset. L.S. is correctly labeled below in yellow on the photo.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Solar Dome (aka Lightho... : Fire Starter (5.10b/c)
By: Tony B When: Aug 29, 2016

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Comments: 11c finish is a bit unnatural feeling/contrived. You go left out to a jug and then pull awkwardly over the bulge. Didn't see the single bolt that pinched the chain up above there at first and just went back left to the main anchor, which is not much fun.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Solar Dome (aka Lightho... : Willie's Wake Up Call Girl (5.11c/d)
By: Tony B When: Aug 29, 2016

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Comments: Agreed - sharp and awkward.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Solar Dome (aka Lightho... : Baditude (5.10d)
By: Tony B When: Aug 29, 2016

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Comments: Jug haul climbing on holds I trusted just fine.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Flesh Eating Flies (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: Aug 29, 2016

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Comments: The single star I give this route is for movement and for what this roue might be if it cleans up. Frankly, I had a no-star experience on it.

The movement on a good route should be the product of limited holds, not forced by the fear that other existing holds will shed out from under you. Furthermore, the 'excitement' of a route should be more about the ability to do the moves, not the gambling aspect of each move, wondering if, or not, the holds you did ... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Rainbow Highway (5.10+)
By: Tony B When: Aug 14, 2016

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Comments: This route is getting quite popular (AKA: crowded).

The lower pitches are easier than rated, unless you are short - then it might be at grade. The crux 6th pitch is 10+ briefly and given to techy slab work. The route is indeed good and has a casual and fun feel to it most of the time but for when it gets 'alpine' on you. I was jamming up P3 when I hit the thistles growing in the crack "shit just got real." I laughed....

Alon... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Morbid Mound : DOA (5.8 X)
By: Tony B When: Aug 10, 2016

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Comments: That's a shame.
Hope there gets to be a 'gone' bolt soon.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Across from The Bihedral ak... : Fire and Rain (5.10c)
By: Tony B When: Aug 9, 2016

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Comments: Why on earth traverse left? How about place an Alien under the flakes and lead the SOB directly up? It's 10b, and it's been done. I also cleaned off that 20 lb. loose flake above the Alien-protected roof.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Across from The Bihedral ak... : Smallville (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Aug 9, 2016

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Comments: It has much improved with age, having cleaned up quite a bit.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nat's Three Star Roof : Spin to Win (5.11 V3) : Photo
By: Tony B When: Aug 1, 2016

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Comments: Nice shoes! Seriously!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty : Main Wall : Prince Charmer (5.9+)
By: Tony B When: Jul 28, 2016

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Comments: Has cleaned up quite a bit. The gear is reasonable. A light rack to 3". 1st and 3rd bolts would be for want of longer slings. Anchors at the top are 5' too high and thus across a long edge. Belay up top and rap, lowering is hard on the ropes. A 60m should get you down OK.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty : South Pillar : Water Spirit (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Jul 28, 2016

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Comments: Has cleaned up a little, and I put some more effort into that.

Would take gear from sm-med stoppers and cams from green Alien - blue Camalot. If you like lots of gear, then double up on cams 1.5-3".


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty : Main Wall : MLK (5.12a)
By: Tony B When: Jul 24, 2016

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Comments: If you are below 6', the moves are going to be proportionally harder here and there.

If you are below 6', several of the clips are going to be even more proportionally difficult.

If you are anything between 5'0 and 6'6", however, the ledge fall from the crux headwall onto the flake/ledge is pretty much (if not precisely) the same... and if you are short, you'll likely blow the cli... more >>


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Death Canyon : Cathedral Buttress : Sunshine Daydream (5.11-)
By: Tony B When: Jul 15, 2016

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Comments: 4-star climbing on what is occasionally 2-star rock.
3 stars over-all, considering the detractors.

The route is pretty good and might have been better if I'd done the bolted face climb P4 instead of the crack P4, which, BTW, is probably more like 5.9 than 10 (or even 10-).
Don't let the grade intimidate you. The feet and fingerlocks are mostly good on the crux pitch and it is pretty well protected in any area of objective difficulty. The crux is just n... more >>


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Disappointment Peak : Open Book (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Jul 15, 2016

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Comments: Of all the routes we did in the Tetons, this one was the least impressive.
It basically amounts to a 3 pitch climb. After the 1st pitch, the remaining are short pitches broken up by ledges or slabs.
1) P1, glassy 5.9 crux at the bottom.
2) P2/3, 5.9-, short pitches run together.
3) P4-6, including "5.9+" crux option that felt like 5.8.

Indeed the top 'seldom done' wide pitch didn't look to add much quality... more >>


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Death Canyon : Cathedral Buttress : Caveat Emptor (5.10)
By: Tony B When: Jul 15, 2016

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Comments: Best route of those we did in the Tetons, better than Snaz (way better) or Sunshine Daydream, not to mention Open Book...
Each pitch, strung together a bit, is 5.10 and high quality.


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Death Canyon : Cathedral Buttress : The Snaz (5.10a)
By: Tony B When: Jul 15, 2016

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Comments: Good Route over all, and improved by taking the 5.10 variations on Snazeat (P4) and Leroy's uncle's Brother (P7).
Best linking we found:
0) Solo the approach pitch to the belay at the base of P1 (40' + walk, 5.5)
1) Link P1/2 (190', 5.7)
2) Snazeat to the diagonal (120', 5.10)
3) From Snazeat to the top of P5, original crux. (180' 5.9+)
4 &5) Frankly, I forget it - it frankly w... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Gallstone, The : No Pun Intended (5.8)
By: Tony B When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: Mileage, I guess. Ho hum. Even in tennis shoes we did not find any 5.10 though... Grade similar to the arête to the left, in my opinion.


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