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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
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Tony B
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Point Rank: # 8
Total Points: 21,745

487 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



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All 16606 | Routes 1333 | Areas 129 | Photos 1569 | Page Improvements 5 | Comments 1902 | Posts 5294 | Stars 3960 | Ratings 2414
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Alberta Falls Wall : Alberta Falls Wall (5.11)
By: Tony B When: 6 hours ago

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Comments: Route is logically 4P, and certainly 380'+/-10', not 480'.
P1: 5.7+, R, dusty, 50' including 20' of traverse. Green and yellow alien belay. Or better yet, keep climbing.
P2: 5.11+, well protected, 40'. You wish you warmed up for this, banging your helmet on the roof, "that-would-be-an-OK-jam-in-any-other-body-position" sort of climbing. Belay on a few stoppers and a small cam again. Green or Red alien.

What I can't figure is why someone might not link P... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Eagle Rock
By: Tony B When: 5 days ago

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Comments: The nest on Eagle Rock in 2017 was successful and the Chick has fledged. So the USFS has re-opened the rock as of last night (7/18). Here is the announcement:

fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news-ev...


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Eagle Rock
By: Tony B When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Eagle Rock has been re-opened for the year. Here is the announcement:

fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news-ev...


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock : Chupacabra (5.10+)
By: Tony B When: Jul 15, 2017

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Comments: Pretty good. Pitches can be linked with good sling work if you don't sling the anchor and go right after clipping the top bolt with a 2' sling. The rope line is direct that way. Makes a maybe 150' pitch or so.

2 cruxes:

1) The poorly protected move to the right on P2 in the crumbly rock with bad gear and a questionable flake is probably 5.9+... if your arms are long enough to span it on the best holds. If not, then harder on worse rock and holds.
2) The roof, which is somewhere in... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Dinosaur Rock : Dinosaur Jr. (5.10-)
By: Tony B When: Jul 12, 2017

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Comments: Nice find. Pro to pull lip to horizontal would be thin and in poor rock. Pro in horizontal might be OK. Nothing to speak of after that. 10- seemed about right for the grade but without 2 climbing shoes, I was hard pressed to guess as to how hard it would have been if I'd had them... so I'm not sure how much 'correction factor' I should have been adding.

Anchor was bomber with Camalots *0.5- #3. All grade A, and a cordalette.


Location: Colorado : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Fin : Feeding Frenzy (5.10d)
By: Tony B When: Jun 17, 2017

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Comments: The second '10d' crux up high is probably 10b, not 10d. The real crux is certainly at the 3rd bolt.

You can undercling and lean back at the top roof and not get sucked in, and the route flows better that way.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : Tales of Power (5.11b)
By: Tony B When: Jun 15, 2017

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Comments: This is an AM climb. When the sun comes overhead, you get blinded trying to see on P2, at least this time of year.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Physical Crag : Bacon Bits (5.10)
By: Tony B When: Jun 3, 2017

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Comments: Indeed, 1x #4 C4 + 2x #5 C4s is the right rack. A #6 CAN be placed but is not critical.

This climb is deceptively steep and much harder than it appears from below.


Location: Colorado : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Terra Tower Buttress : Terra Tower : Unknown 5.10 crack (5.10c/d)
By: Tony B When: May 30, 2017

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Comments: Better rock than several popular routes in the area. The crux indeed is height and hand-size dependent. Small folks will have a hard move up high, larger folks a harder time down in the thin area.


Location: Colorado : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Tiara Rado : Incredible Handcrack of the... (5.10+)
By: Tony B When: May 30, 2017

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Comments: Pretty good climbing, but fairly 'blah' rock. Even my 120lb partner sent down a lot of sand and pebbles from crack edges. The rock in this area is desert rat quality, overall.
Take several of each 2-3.5" cams and a few #4s if you want consistently good gear.


Location: Colorado : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Tiara Rado : The Middle Finger - History... (5.11)
By: Tony B When: May 30, 2017

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Comments: A good climb, but not a great one. 4-star routes in the area like Medicine Man, Desert Solitaire, Kissing Couple, etc... those are a solid set of quality higher, and with fewer detractors.

To note: a set of 70m ropes can get you down from the top to the low angle stuff in 1 rap from the top, and a set of 60s (and no doubt 50s) from the lower set of anchors.

The belay between the first 2 pitches is not obvious or great, I guess. I linked P1/P2 as a single pitch and did it as single a 170' l... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Rastaman Roof (5.9+)
By: Tony B When: May 20, 2017

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Comments: I think the roof shifted - the crux is now red Camalots and thinner. Seems harder. Maybe I had a high gravity day and too much drag (ran Wind Tower Slab into it for a single 60m pitch), but my partner who leads 5.10-5.11 regularly took a few hangs following... so I think it changed.
Seems stable though - that massive car-sized rock just settled an inch, I guess.


Location: Colorado : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : The Access Fund Trailhead : ... : Undocumented (Left of Bandi... (5.9-)
By: Tony B When: May 18, 2017

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Comments: Very well then... so what is the crack to the right then, if this is Bandito?


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Supremacy Rock : Supremacy Crack (5.11) : Photo
By: Tony B When: May 14, 2017

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Comments: This photo makes it look so long....


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Supremacy Rock : Supremacy Slab (5.9+ R)
By: Tony B When: May 14, 2017

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Comments: Lead again today. A bad brass nut to a very very good blue Alien at almost 20'. Then a so-so green Camalot or red Alien, then a bad but "I'll take what I get" grey Alien, then a few bad stoppers, then a cam in a horizontal out left toward the arete. Up and right there to the top with a few placements in odd spots, but the climbing is mellow.
It is runout for sure but not X if you are creative. Certainly R though.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fatiron : Photo
By: Tony B When: May 8, 2017

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Comments: Whoops wrong image attached. I'll have to go dig.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : Colorado Senior Open (5.10-)
By: Tony B When: May 7, 2017

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Comments: The D'Antonio book shows this going to its own anchor... but as Jay points out, that is not the case.

The route is good until the top. If you go up to where the anchor is drawn in the D'Antonio guide, the climbing is dirty, loose, and insecure.

Also, I think it was above the last bolt 18" that there is a chopper-sharp flake. You can get 1/2-3/4" pro above it to avoid a cut rope in a fall, so that might be worth doing.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : Same As It Ever Was (5.11a/b)
By: Tony B When: May 6, 2017

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Comments: Crimpy moves out right to a jug. Beyond that, not as hard, but maybe not something to try to warm up on.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : Giggity-Giggity (5.10c)
By: Tony B When: May 6, 2017

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Comments: So... where is "Quagmire?"
I tried pretty much everything on that wall. Seems to me that the only thing available for the 5.9 designation is this or at least in part this line.
I do note that D'Antonio fails to differentiate or place either of these routes, but for to say that this one is 10c (actually about 10b though) and Quagmire is 5.9+, which as we know is harder than 10a... which means about 10b again...and there is good gear for most of this route, absent any bolts.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : The Throttle (5.11 R)
By: Tony B When: May 6, 2017

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Comments: Step up from flake on sidepulls into the bowl is a harder than average 11 and insecure at least maybe 11c/d?

However, you can get a cordalette tripled over and tied off behind the "spike" I mention triple and tied off so as to be sure that if you sever a strand or two, that you don't end up on the ledge. I'd say use Kevlar, not nylon.

There a yellow or green Alien at the start, which is probably 5.10, then the cord, then a few more Alien options and Camalot options here or th... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : The Threshold (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: May 6, 2017

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Comments: Actually, the upper part of this route is best done 6' left of 'My Way' stepping out end left into a series of other crack systems after the crux deposits you briefly upon the arete. There is reasonable gear and the upper section is never harder than 5.10- and perhaps not even that hard.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon
By: Tony B When: Apr 29, 2017

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Comments: Leo, you are most certainly correct with respect to where that line is, and someone ought to remove those bolts.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : Two Timer II (5.12 PG13)
By: Tony B When: Apr 25, 2017

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Comments: Sounds like it has cleaned up. Glad to hear that. Bloom and I apparently both thought it was dirty/loose by local standards back when we did it.
I also used to get cranky about my arthritis and finger cracks. Now I just avoid them, (can't even straighten a few fingers on my left hand) so problem solved and I don't get so cranky about it.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : The Metamorphosis (5.10-)
By: Tony B When: Apr 23, 2017

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Comments: Perhaps I can help decypher the mystery of where the 'old #4' or new #5 Camalot goes.

In this picture, from the first belay (the one that breaks the climb up), you can see just in the top of the photo, a '#4 C4' Camalot. It is tipped out. You can see a long way with no gear below that. The climbing is not hard, but it is slightly insecure, and you don't know what you are going t... more >>


Location: Ohio : Mad River Gorge aka Springf...
By: Tony B When: Apr 21, 2017

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Comments: All those routes mentioned and nobody says anything about Orangahang (11c)?


Or for that matter, Oh Well (11d)?
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb on the TR problem "Devine Intervent...
Tony Bubb on the TR problem "Devine Intervention (12c)" in Springfield Gorge, OH. These shorts are in competion with Hank's "Mandukes" for the fasion disaster award. Photo by Casey Rhodes ~ 1991.


Those were some of the most iconic and accessible routes there!

Many an aspiring trad climber cut their teeth on 'First Lead' and then 'Telephone booth.' I know I did so in the 80'@S... more >>


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