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Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb getting out of the overhang pockets and ...


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
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Areas = 15
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All 16303 | Routes 1329 | Areas 129 | Photos 1550 | Page Improvements 5 | Comments 1861 | Posts 5141 | Stars 3913 | Ratings 2375
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : A Cut Above (5.12a)
By: Tony B When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Ken,
Thanks for the info. The route description has been amended to include your notes, paraphrased slightly for tone. If that seems adequate, you can take or leave your comment, as you please, but I thought it best to put that in the description, not just comments below.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : East Ironing Board : Green Room (5.11+)
By: Tony B When: Nov 30, 2016

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Comments: The anchors are so loose that the right bolts can be spun by fingertips with very little resistance (not the nut, the BOLT) and would easily funk out. You would not lean out on it, for sure. It might pull out pretty easily.

The left bolt is a rusted to crap 3/8" plated, seems OK for now, but given the one on the right, and what an "interesting" rap this is if you come off of the South Face, well... it should probably be replaced, as it tends to be lo... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Acrophile : ... : Photo
By: Tony B When: Nov 26, 2016

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Comments: Hmmm. doesn't look as steep from this angle, does it? Nice shot from the top reveals a lot more! Nice pics!


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Acrophile : ... : Photo
By: Tony B When: Nov 26, 2016

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Comments: Nice shot. I keep telling people what a great pitch that is and what a massive roof it really is, but nobody goes for it. Glad to see it got some attention!


Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Helen's Dome : Face Value (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Nov 21, 2016

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Comments: Yep, rapping on a 70m is just fine. Makes it with a meter or two to spare to the flake, then a meter or two extra on the ramp system at the base as well. An 80m would almost reach the bolt anchor, but as has been said, it's not sketch to go off and walk over.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : ... : Photo
By: Tony B When: Nov 17, 2016

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Comments: Must be from Pervertical then. Thanks!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : East Ironing Board : Que Rasca (5.7 R)
By: Tony B When: Nov 16, 2016

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Comments: Harder and less solid than Smooth or Smoother. This will get your attention and keep it at the cruxes.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Funk Rock City : Hardcore Jollies (5.12a)
By: Tony B When: Nov 15, 2016

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Comments: Jack,

Although I don't take you for serious to quibble about a single letter grade, it is an interesting question with regards to this rock.

Yeah, I've upgraded plenty too, about the same number as downgraded.
I formed my opinions about RRG when I was a local there in the early 90's. (Before climbing in Eldo).

Here is the history as I recall it, from when I was climbing, Primarily with Lynn, but a bit around with the rest of the guys... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Anthill Direct (5.9- R)
By: Tony B When: Nov 12, 2016

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Comments: Can be and might best be done as 3 pitches total from the ground to summit.
P1 to bolted belay on ramp, P2 to just under first roof on AHD, P3 to summit slabs. P2 requires a 70m rope if done to the best belay, or simul-climbing. A gear belay higher on the ramp makes it possible with a 60m. Top pitch might also get close to 60m or longer depending on where you want to belay.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Semi-Wild (5.9+ R)
By: Tony B When: Nov 12, 2016

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Comments: Some wasps on it, but they are NOT nesting and not aggressive. I just shooed them off and out of the cracks, placing gear right where they were on occasion (one here and there for 40'). I think they like the dark rock in fall/winter there.

The runout is really not so bad anywhere that the climbing is 5.8 or harder. The crux protects on small stoppers and an Alien or two within 10' of a secure stance post-crux.

The climb can be done in 3 pitches ground to... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Jamcrack Spire : Southeast Chimney (5.5)
By: Tony B When: Nov 1, 2016

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Comments: To descend, you can also scramble Northward and down East from the summit about 80 below the top, aiming for a notch on the north most rib of rock by a line of junipers.

You go around the notch to the north, and it's a walk off down to the trail South of the Maiden.

It is the dark chimney left of center in the google earth photo here.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Rastafarian (5.9+)
By: Tony B When: Nov 1, 2016

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Comments: Above the top of the crack on P2, where the climb 'forces' you to the right, you CAN keep going directly up to the belay. The moves are steep and a little more insecure. Gear is not exactly great, but it is there, and the climbing is not super-human. Maybe 10d or 11-? Maybe PG-13?

Anyway, a mere mortal can do it, and I'm a bit surprised it has not been done/documented. It might deserve a bolt.

I'd call it &#... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Finger Lickin' Good (5.10c/d)
By: Tony B When: Oct 30, 2016

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Comments: Great crack with difficulty being dependent on finger size. Could be 10-, could be 10+.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Southern Comfort (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Oct 30, 2016

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Comments: A variation called 'Northern Comfort' is a fun way to keep this route in the 5.9 range a little longer.

P1. Climb P1 up into the corner to the right of the overhanging flake and belay off of hand-sized gear (120').

P2. Break left onto semi-positive face holds (5.8-), and climb up with occasional nuts or Aliens up and right, then go up a handrcrack with good gear up and left to the summit (70') (FA: Croft, Hall Ch... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Southern Comfort (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Oct 30, 2016

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Comments: P1 is a little slick, both for hands and feet. It felt like 5.9+ as a warm-up.
This route can easily be done in 2 pitches and probably as one pitch with not much difficulty. Clip a 3' sling on the first 'belay', and continue through the traverse up and right to the right under the giant flake below then up into the corner. You can belay there to stop and the break back left to finish on 5.9 as 'Northern Comfort&@POUN... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Leftovers : Too Much Crack (5.10-)
By: Tony B When: Oct 30, 2016

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Comments: Yep - this goes as 1 pitch with a 70m, or for that matter, with a 60m with 20' of 5.4 simul-climbing to a ledge from the base.
As for the top, if you step slightly left after the crack runs out, you can get a good stopper and Alien, then back right, the climbing is no harder than 5.8 (if that) and only for a move or two if done by the easiest sequence, then it comes back up and right on positive, if not incut holds for both hands and feet to the top. PG-13, I think. Maybe R o... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : The Offset (5.9+ R)
By: Tony B When: Oct 16, 2016

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Comments: The Levin book describes the line as 'Exquisite', and I had to figure out what that means, for such a short pitch to get 3 *s in such a stacked area. It means technical and sequential on small holds, but yeah, it's pretty good, but not so much in 80 deg temps in the sun. Do it on a slightly more 'crisp' day when your hands stick and shoes are stiffer.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Skink's Lip (5.10 X)
By: Tony B When: Oct 16, 2016

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Comments: Maybe you only climb the left crack, as per the comment above, but even eschewing the right one, there is still protection. The route is really no more so runout than 'The Offset' I don't think, and so it's probably 'R' not 'X'. In fact, I think the hardest move is closer to gear, and the crux shorter, though yeah, is a tiny bit harder.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Matron : Quiche on a Leash (5.10c)
By: Tony B When: Oct 8, 2016

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Comments: Scary chockstone wedged by crumbling arete was pretty ready to go. Going, going, gone.... We cleaned it. Maybe 100+ lbs?

The low crux is a bit dirty right now on the feet. Multiple small nuts and cams are at waist or higher and more or less keep you on TR there. The higher cruxes are more interesting, less slick, and also maybe 10a. Pretty good route, overall.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Matron : ... : Photo
By: Tony B When: Oct 8, 2016

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Comments: Presently, that is the crux of the route, as the lower section has been 'slimed' by the crows in this years nest, and it makes the feet there a bit slick. The rest of the route is in good shape.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Sons of Yesterday (5.10-)
By: Tony B When: Oct 2, 2016

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Comments: P1/2 and P3/4 can both be linked for a 3-pitch outing on this one. Take some extra red/yellow camalots if doing so, however.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cathedral Spires Area : Middle Cathedral Rock : Kor-Beck (5.9)
By: Tony B When: Oct 2, 2016

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Comments: Indeed, the whole route is a very different experience than the initial part of it. Adventure climbers will enjoy it, those accustomed to clear route paths, accurate topos, and great gear in clean great rock will not always be enamored of the possibilities that they are presented with beyond the bolted belays.
That said, I still enjoyed the route.
The 5.9 grade is a little sandbagged for P1-6, and perhaps more sandbagged if you do the whole route, in which case 5.10- (at least) is fair.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Lady Mountain : Original Route (5.5)
By: Tony B When: Sep 18, 2016

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Comments: Soloed this in 1995 - a guy up top scoffed at me as I arrived, having seen me on the way up: "They have a trail up here, you know..." (shaking his head).


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : Sunlight Arete (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Sep 17, 2016

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Comments: No better or worse than 'Useless One' to the right. They can indeed be done as completely different and isolated routes but are more naturally blended with a few shared moves.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : Useless One (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Sep 17, 2016

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Comments: The route has cleaned up well enough, I guess. The initial placement is pretty high if you eschew the bolts down low for a trad route.... Then lots of gear but slightly flaky rock in a few spots. Not unsafe by any means.


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