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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
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Tony B
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Point Rank: # 8
Total Points: 21,740

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



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All 16543 | Routes 1333 | Areas 129 | Photos 1568 | Page Improvements 5 | Comments 1891 | Posts 5274 | Stars 3944 | Ratings 2399
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Rastaman Roof (5.9+)
By: Tony B When: 4 days ago

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Comments: I think the roof shifted - the crux is now red camalots and thinner. Seems harder. Maybe I had a high gravity day and too much drag (ran Wind Tower Slab into it for a single 60M pitch), but my partner who leads 5.10-5.11 regularly took a few hangs following... so I think it changed.
Seems stable though - that massive car-sized rock just settled an inch, I guess.


Location: Colorado : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : The Access Fund Trailhead : ... : Undocumented (Left of Bandi... (5.9-)
By: Tony B When: May 18, 2017

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Comments: Very well then... so what is the crack to the right then, if this is Bandito?


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Supremacy Rock : Supremacy Crack (5.11) : Photo
By: Tony B When: May 14, 2017

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Comments: This photo makes it look so long....


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Supremacy Rock : Supremacy Slab (5.9+ R)
By: Tony B When: May 14, 2017

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Comments: Lead again today. A bad brass nut to a very very good blue Alien at almost 20'. Then a so-so green Camalot or red Alien, then a bad but "I'll take what I get" grey Alien, then a few bad stoppers, then a cam in a horizontal out left toward the arete. Up and right there to the top with a few placements in odd spots, but the climbing is mellow.
It is runout for sure but not X if you are creative. Certainly R though.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fatiron : Photo
By: Tony B When: May 8, 2017

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Comments: Whoops wrong image attached. I'll have to go dig.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : Colorado Senior Open (5.10-)
By: Tony B When: May 7, 2017

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Comments: The D'Antonio book shows this going to its own anchor... but as Jay points out, that is not the case.

The route is good until the top. If you go up to where the anchor is drawn in the D'Antonio guide, the climbing is dirty, loose, and insecure.

Also, I think it was above the last bolt 18" that there is a chopper-sharp flake. You can get 1/2-3/4" pro above it to avoid a cut rope in a fall, so that might be worth doing.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : Same As It Ever Was (5.11a/b)
By: Tony B When: May 6, 2017

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Comments: Crimpy moves out right to a jug. Beyond that, not as hard, but maybe not something to try to warm up on.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : Giggity-Giggity (5.10c)
By: Tony B When: May 6, 2017

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Comments: So... where is "Quagmire?"
I tried pretty much everything on that wall. Seems to me that the only thing available for the 5.9 designation is this or at least in part this line.
I do note that D'Antonio fails to differentiate or place either of these routes, but for to say that this one is 10c (actually about 10b though) and Quagmire is 5.9+, which as we know is harder than 10a... which means about 10b again...and there is good gear for most of this route, absent any bolts.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : The Throttle (5.11 R)
By: Tony B When: May 6, 2017

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Comments: Step up from flake on sidepulls into the bowl is a harder than average 11 and insecure at least maybe 11c/d?

However, you can get a cordalette tripled over and tied off behind the "spike" I mention triple and tied off so as to be sure that if you sever a strand or two, that you don't end up on the ledge. I'd say use Kevlar, not nylon.

There a yellow or green Alien at the start, which is probably 5.10, then the cord, then a few more Alien options and Camalot options here or th... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : The Threshold (5.11a)
By: Tony B When: May 6, 2017

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Comments: Actually, the upper part of this route is best done 6' left of 'My Way' stepping out end left into a series of other crack systems after the crux deposits you briefly upon the arete. There is reasonable gear and the upper section is never harder than 5.10- and perhaps not even that hard.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon
By: Tony B When: Apr 29, 2017

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Comments: Leo, you are most certainly correct with respect to where that line is, and someone ought to remove those bolts.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : Two Timer II (5.12 PG13)
By: Tony B When: Apr 25, 2017

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Comments: Sounds like it has cleaned up. Glad to hear that. Bloom and I apparently both thought it was dirty/loose by local standards back when we did it.
I also used to get cranky about my arthritis and finger cracks. Now I just avoid them, (can't even straighten a few fingers on my left hand) so problem solved and I don't get so cranky about it.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : The Metamorphosis (5.10-)
By: Tony B When: Apr 23, 2017

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Comments: Perhaps I can help decypher the mystery of where the 'old #4' or new #5 Camalot goes.

In this picture, from the first belay (the one that breaks the climb up), you can see just in the top of the photo, a '#4 C4' Camalot. It is tipped out. You can see a long way with no gear below that. The climbing is not hard, but it is slightly insecure, and you don't know what you are going t... more >>


Location: Ohio : Mad River Gorge aka Springf...
By: Tony B When: Apr 21, 2017

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Comments: All those routes mentioned and nobody says anything about Orangahang (11c)?


Or for that matter, Oh Well (11d)?
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb on the TR problem "Devine Intervent...
Tony Bubb on the TR problem "Devine Intervention (12c)" in Springfield Gorge, OH. These shorts are in competion with Hank's "Mandukes" for the fasion disaster award. Photo by Casey Rhodes ~ 1991.


Those were some of the most iconic and accessible routes there!

Many an aspiring trad climber cut their teeth on 'First Lead' and then 'Telephone booth.' I know I did so in the 80'@S... more >>


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Long Wall : Perforator (5.10a)
By: Tony B When: Apr 17, 2017

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Comments: I remember someone once asking me about a different climb:
Q: "So it's 5.9+, but it is wet, what rating would it get?"
A: "I dunno. Wet 5.9."

Sounds like you got on a wet 5.10a. On a friction-dependent crux, it might be anywhere between 5.10a and impossible.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Shanahan Crag : Great Expectations (5.9-)
By: Tony B When: Apr 9, 2017

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Comments: This climb is a bit scruffy and does wander a bit. I felt it was more like 5.9, but I suppose that may be dependent upon your exact path and what holds you are willing to chance using well above gear.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : Diffraction (5.10a/b)
By: Tony B When: Apr 2, 2017

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Comments: There are yellow-jackets in the crack just below the crux in sufficient quantity to believe that they are resident. I was able to avoid them and they are not on the chalked holds, but beware so as not to be surprised. They were not aggressive, but they were most certainly watching closely!


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Pebble Beach : Brontosaurus (5.10b)
By: Tony B When: Apr 1, 2017

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Comments: The old guidebook said something to the effect of "from an era when brawn was in, but brains were out." I always found that description amusing.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Cave Pitch (5.8)
By: Tony B When: Mar 19, 2017

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Comments: A #4 Friend is not necessary, per se, but not knowing where to place it?
Seems to me that you are never more than a foot from a bomber 4" placement if you are looking. A #3 Camalot can be walked up between narrower sections of the crack, but a #4 is probably ideal other than that you don't really need it again thereafter.


Location: Colorado : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Tiara Rado : Disappear/Reappear (5.11-)
By: Tony B When: Mar 19, 2017

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Comments: Good route. Tough start if you are not warmed up, followed by a thin balancy crux at mid-route. Slightly softer stone than Indian Creek but still good.


Location: Colorado : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Tiara Rado : 100' Hands (5.10a/b)
By: Tony B When: Mar 19, 2017

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Comments: Pretty good route. A bit of a "butt crack" as it flares outward at the edge and keeps you slightly off balance. Pretty blue-collar but fun.


Location: Colorado : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Sentinel Spire
By: Tony B When: Mar 19, 2017

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Comments: So what is the wide crack left of Fast Draw?
It would apparently go ground-up, and you would not even need to start in on Fast Draw to the pin/bolt traverse that reaches it from near the mid-climb belay.
Any ideas?


Location: Colorado : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Sentinel Spire : Medicine Man (5.12a)
By: Tony B When: Mar 19, 2017

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Comments: Why stop at the intermediate belay? Well, I tell you what - the next "pitch" is not that hard, but if you start it pumped, it's going to be a rough ride. I was able to do both free but only after hanging out to recover after the pump on P2.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Solar Dome (aka Lightho... : Ice Hose Chopper Lunch Mob (5.11-)
By: Tony B When: Mar 16, 2017

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Comments: Mark,
Thanks for the info. I have amended the route description with this.
As for the grade, This one is likely quite height/reach-dependent.
Aside of the general subjectivity of grades overall, I try to fairly account for my rather abnormal wingspan....
"If you can't reach this, then you might also find the opening moves harder than 11-."
So I won't quibble a bit about the grade.

Thanks for the info.


Location: Colorado : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Tiara Rado : First Impressions (5.10-)
By: Tony B When: Mar 13, 2017

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Comments: Tune in to the sandy feet on slopers here before leading this one.


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