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Member Since: Jun 2, 2009
Last Visit: 21 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 264
Total Points: 2,613

73 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 2537 | Routes 107 | Areas 11 | Approach Trails | Photos 275 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 284 | Posts 740 | Stars 1052 | Ratings 67
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: North Carolina > Whiteside Mountain > Southwest Corner > Photo
By: TomCaldwell When: Dec 15, 2017

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Comments: This is convenient.


Location: South Carolina > Table Rock > Main Face > Silent But Violent (5.11c)
By: TomCaldwell When: Nov 22, 2017

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Comments: Like a fart? So I've heard.


Location: South Carolina > Table Rock > Main Face > Stone Wall Action (5.11)
By: TomCaldwell When: Nov 21, 2017

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Comments: P2 and P3 now have SS anchors.


Location: South Carolina > Table Rock
By: TomCaldwell When: Nov 20, 2017

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Comments: "." whats with the anonymity? Not all of the first bolts at Table Rock are that high, almost all of them you would not die before clipping. Many of the Water Groove Wall routes are reasonable. There is some history to why some of the first bolts on the head wall side are so high. Climbing wasn't official when this area was first established. Some of the first bolts were high possibly to prevent being noticed. Doc was the first to show a lot of people these routes. He has his own reputation of as... more >>


Location: North Carolina > Laurel Knob > Use It Or Luge It (5.10+)
By: TomCaldwell When: Oct 30, 2017

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Comments: When you reach the large clearing after the clearing for Manatee and others, drop gear there. Walk back up the trail and go up into the tree gully. At the top of the gully there is a large long detached block. This is the belay area.

P1: Go up the slab to the left side of bulge. This a small section of chunky quartz. Get gear below this, then move straight up to the far away first bolt. Continue straight up to reach a short slash at the same height as the detached pillar to the right. Get gear ... more >>


Location: North Carolina > Laurel Knob > Use It Or Luge It (5.10+)
By: TomCaldwell When: Oct 28, 2017

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Comments: Wow! What a great climb with lots of spice. The first two pitches are mostly tame, but the third pitch had several ankle breakers and a bad rap anchor. I'd recommend just doing the first two pitches unless you really want the full experience.


Location: Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Miller Fork Recreational Pr... > Monastery > The Heretic (5.8+)
By: TomCaldwell When: Sep 6, 2017

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Comments: This crack is classic for the grade. You can do pure jamming or mix it up with some face holds. Hand jams with training wheels, a must-do.


Location: Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Miller Fork Recreational Pr... > Secret Garden > Little Wing (5.9)
By: TomCaldwell When: Sep 6, 2017

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Comments: This thing would be a fun easy trad climb. Only the last two bolts are needed.


Location: South Carolina > Table Rock
By: TomCaldwell When: May 10, 2017

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Comments: Justin, climbing at Table Rock, SC isn't open right now. Even if it was, it would be awful hot. There is primitive camping at the Table Rock HQ, but I believe this is by reservation. The closest open climbing would be Big Rock, but again too hot. I would suggest driving one state north. In NC, any USFS land camping is allowed 50 feet from a trail or a 100 feet from the road.


Location: North Carolina > Whiteside Mountain > Southwest Corner > Great Gig in the Sky (5.12)
By: TomCaldwell When: Apr 27, 2017

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Comments: The jaw-dropping exposure on this climb is beyond memorable! This should be on every 5.12 trad climbers list. Non-stop action and aesthetic movement from start to finish will keep you engaged and entertained. Go find out!


Location: North Carolina > Whiteside Mountain > Southwest Corner > Under the Big-Top (5.11)
By: TomCaldwell When: Apr 17, 2017

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Comments: A great route, and much more in line with the crux grade than the moderate corner. This is a big stellar pitch that leads right into the crux of BPITS. An alternative start can be had using the flake system instead of the corner. A nice option, if you've done the corner a bunch.


Location: North Carolina > Whiteside Mountain > Southwest Corner
By: TomCaldwell When: Mar 1, 2017

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Comments: This is a great all year cragging area. In the warmer months it stays shaded until noon or later on the upper pitches and in the winter months it gets direct sun in the afternoon. Many of the routes in the area dry quickly after a rain and most of the Boulder Problem stays protected by a monstrous roof. The newer routes added in the last year may be some of the most classic and exposed climbing at Whiteside and NC. Most of the routes in this area are very well-protected for Whiteside standards. ... more >>


Location: North Carolina > Whiteside Mountain > Southwest Corner > S.O.S. (5.10b) > Photo
By: TomCaldwell When: Dec 30, 2016

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Comments: Nice looking anchors! I changed the P2 description. I'll let you add more details or I will when we finally do your variation.


Location: North Carolina > Linville Gorge > Hawksbill Mtn > Middle Hawksbill > Hemlock Arete (5.10+)
By: TomCaldwell When: Sep 26, 2016

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Comments: I have a couple of partners in the low 5' range. This makes the clip at the first bulge kind of tough, and you could get jacked up if you pump out and miss it. There is a piece that can be clipped right at head level. I will take any guessing out of it and say we used a red and black metolius (tight/small hands range), which is between .5 and 1 camalot. Anyone who doesn't send because they carry a few extra cams needs to get some more fitness and come back, LOL. Also, the 50' is just... more >>


Location: North Carolina > Whiteside Mountain > Photo
By: TomCaldwell When: Aug 2, 2016

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Comments: Sorry, I just saw your comment. I sent you a message.


Location: North Carolina > Pickens Nose > Rock House Knob > Upper Deck (roof crack) (5.11) > Photo
By: TomCaldwell When: Jul 18, 2016

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Comments: Cool little addition.


Location: North Carolina > Whiteside Mountain > Southwest Corner > Boulder Problem in the Sky (5.11-)
By: TomCaldwell When: May 11, 2016

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Comments: P2 now has an anchor of 1/2" SS with rings. They were placed on the ledge again, so pulling the rope is still difficult, but still better than the mank and tat. The ideal place would have been on the wall above.


Location: North Carolina > Whiteside Mountain > Southeast Face > Whippin' Boy (5.11d)
By: TomCaldwell When: May 11, 2016

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Comments: You guys and your hybrids. The third pitch took tri-cams nicely instead of hybrids. A couple of the spots hybrids will be more secure, but not mandatory. The second pitch could use an update on the fixed hardware. Everything was rusted. The loose bolt on the crux is a hopeless cause. The way the directional is from the next bolt, it will never stay tight. The crux pitch was fun. Like everyone has said, they are all jugs at the last two bolts. Just keep wandering to stay on them. Derek your nut h... more >>


Location: North Carolina > Rumbling Bald > Flapping.../Nuclear arms ar... > Sugaree (5.10a PG13)
By: TomCaldwell When: Jan 6, 2016

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Comments: I believe Nathan and Tim updated the hardware at the top when they completed another route that finishes through here. I don't remember the anchor being particularly bad.


Location: North Carolina > Linville Gorge > Shortoff Mountain > Photo
By: TomCaldwell When: Dec 7, 2015

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Comments: There is a solid tree you can rap after you come out of the first decent gully before shimmying down the tree. It is only a single rope rappel and will save you from that annoying wet decent (or sometimes icy).


Location: Tennessee > The Tennessee Wall
By: TomCaldwell When: Nov 10, 2015

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Comments: Alfonso, it is a paved public road.


Location: North Carolina > Cedar Rock > Cedar Rock - Main Wall > Common Ground (5.11c/d)
By: TomCaldwell When: Oct 19, 2015

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Comments: Great pitch with deceptive movement. Good friction helps. Lots of sloping eyebrows and crimps. Watch for the suspect flake before reaching the first bolt.


Location: Tennessee > Sunset Park > Sunset North > The Arena (5.11a/b)
By: TomCaldwell When: Oct 12, 2015

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Comments: There is good gear just left of the horn, "the TCU placement" the guide suggests. I don't think you would deck falling onto that piece. Bring a few larger pieces to protect the first bit of crack at the crux and the slab above. The crack size is pretty easy to see from the ground.


Location: Tennessee > Sunset Park > Sunset North > Prisoners of Zenda (5.11b)
By: TomCaldwell When: Oct 12, 2015

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Comments: A scary thought to try and lead this thing. I would suggest sussing out the gear and maybe even preplacing some of it. There are a few sections where you could hit the slab below.


Location: West Virginia > The New River Gorge > New River Gorge Proper > Beauty Mountain > Genocide Cave > ... > Photo
By: TomCaldwell When: Sep 10, 2015

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Comments: Stud! Nice climbing harness brah!


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