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Member Since: Nov 21, 2001
Last Visit: Nov 27, 2017
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Tom Wilson
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Total Points: 10

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3

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All 14 | Routes | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos 2 | Page Improvements | Comments 7 | Posts 4 | Stars 1 | Ratings

Contributed Comments


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... > ... > Photo
By: Tom Wilson When: Sep 2, 2016

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Comments: Please unmark this as a "Beta Photo".
It's misleading, since it is not a photo of (this) route.

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > Central > Skunk Canyon > ... > Stairway to Heaven (5.3)
By: Tom Wilson When: May 1, 2008

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Comments: I talked to the OSMP ranger in charge of this area last night to confirm that this route is not subject to seasonal bird closures.

This climb is on Ridge One. I suspect the confusion is because Ridge One may actually be seen as the second physical ridge, as Warren Teissier describes in his May 21, 2002 post. The next ridge to the west, Ridge Two, is home to Satan's Slab, etc, and is subject to seasonal closures.

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > North > First Flatiron > ... > Photo
By: Tom Wilson When: May 30, 2006

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Comments: Seems like this shows a line further to the south... i.e. pitch 2 of Kamikaze Roofs?

Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Petit Grepon > South Face (5.8)
By: Tom Wilson When: Sep 3, 2003

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Comments: Despite the warnings about climbing this rock on a weekend, Bryan Keith and I did this route last sunday (Labor Day wknd 2003.) No problems with crowds, in fact we were on the rock alone. Since you are all friends, I will tell you the secret:

Climb when it rains.

(Barely rain, but enough to scare away the throngs, I guess.) Just get up an hour ealier, walk a mile farther, or climb when it's a little colder and wetter and you can usually avoid the crowds, even in RMNP.

Unlike Eldo, where y... more >>

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... > Swanson Arete (5.5)
By: Tom Wilson When: Oct 29, 2002

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Comments: Approach: I still find it interesting that this classic 5.5 route begins on the Red Ledge, which is only accessible via one of several harder first pitches. I've climbed this using both the Rewritten P1 start, and the "unrecommended" West Chimney P1. The chimney is actually an interesting pitch - some real chimney climbing, among other things. However, it *is* in the main rap route and there are plenty of loose rocks, so I'd avoid it unless you can be sure there's no-one above.

The climb: Fro... more >>

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > North > First Flatiron
By: Tom Wilson When: Oct 14, 2002

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Comments: We were up there Saturday (10/12/02) and did the rap in two parts, using the standard second fixed rap point on the south side. This is a single old, large eyebolt.

We did not back up the eyebolt, but I watched it as Bryan rapped first... and THE TOP OF THE RAP ANCHOR MUST HAVE FLEXED 1/4 INCH!!

I do not know how deep these bolts are placed in the rock, or what the bolts are like. It's difficult to back this bolt up easily, but I recommend it. Backing up fixed anchors is always a good idea,... more >>

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > South > Fern Canyon > Onoclea
By: Tom Wilson When: Aug 15, 2002

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Comments: Some guidebooks describe this as 4 pitches.With a 50M rope it is no more than three pitches, two short and one long. It goes nicely in 2 long pitches with a 60M rope.

Carry your boots on this one. The pine-needle-carpeted descent route is no fun in rock shoes.

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