Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community


Member Since: Jul 30, 2007
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact Todd Felix

Point Rank: # 7,652
Total Points: 65
Last Year: 3
Last 30 Days: 0
0 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Todd Felix been climbing?










Contributions


All 62 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 6 | Page Improvements | Comments 21 | Posts 2 | Stars 20 | Ratings 12
Page 1 of 3.  1  2  3   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Aretnophobia (FA)

5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c (122)

Sport, 1 pitch, 70'

CO : Golden : ... : The Canal Zone

May 31, 2011

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: Near the top on Soaring, September 2010.  It's cla...

Near the top on Soaring, September 2010. It's classic stemming all the way. Anchors just below the roof. The guidebooks suggested I might need gear, but a little way up I could see that it was bolted

WY : Devil's Tower : ... : Soaring (5.11a)

Sep 29, 2012

Rock Climbing Photo: Near the start of Soaring, September 2010 (2 pitch...

Near the start of Soaring, September 2010 (2 pitches of climbing to get to here). There is some vegetation in the corner, but it's not obtrusive. Photo: Kristin Felix.

WY : Devil's Tower : ... : Soaring (5.11a)

Sep 29, 2012

Rock Climbing Photo: Climber at the anchors (actually just finishing Th...

Climber at the anchors (actually just finishing The Local Scoop). This anchor serves both routes: Going Retro (route to the left), and The Local Scoop (route to the right). The not-so-obvious cleft

CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Going Retro (M6)

Dec 29, 2011

Rock Climbing Photo: Through the crux.

Through the crux.

CO : Golden : ... : Aretnophobia (5.11a/b)

Jun 1, 2011

Rock Climbing Photo: Casey working the arete.

Casey working the arete.

CO : Golden : ... : Aretnophobia (5.11a/b)

Jun 1, 2011

Rock Climbing Photo: Aretnophobia is the line in red left of Batso.

Aretnophobia is the line in red left of Batso.

CO : Golden : ... : Aretnophobia (5.11a/b)

May 31, 2011

Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Devil's Tower : Durrance Approach : Sundance (5.7)
By: Todd Felix When: Oct 14, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This route deserves more than 2 stars for sure. Lots of variety: stemming, crack, face, chimney, lieback, maybe even a little off-width, but not much. It felt harder than 5.7 to me but I had a small rack (had intended to climb a different route), and linked the 2 pitches. But it was fun. Cool way to skip most of Durrance if you want to keep going...or pass some slow parties.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : Durrance Approach : Fritz's Fantasy (5.10b/c)
By: Todd Felix When: Oct 14, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Great route! I underestimated it because I expected 5.10b. Sustained. Thoughtful. Long. About halfway up I muttered "Apperently Ol' Fritz didn't fantasize about rests!" Then found some rests on the second half. It sure felt like 5.11 climbing to me. And we had just climbed Soler Eclipse the day before, so we had a good comparison.

Perhaps stemming will keep the grade down to 5.10b, but the arête feels like 5.11 to me.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces : Soler Eclipse (5.11b)
By: Todd Felix When: Oct 14, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: What a wonderful way to summit Devils Tower with only 12 quick draws and a 70m rope! Both pitches are marvelous! And don't let Frank's danger warnings scare you off. All of the bolts have been replaced since then. All the bolts are good now.

Second pitch is slightly easier, but a lot spicier. Maybe some holds have broken since Frank's 5.10a rating for this pitch. I don't think it's dangerous, b... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Meadow Dome : ... : Elwood P. Dowd (5.10b/c)
By: Todd Felix When: Oct 6, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This line feels a bit forced also (like Harvey). That said, it's a fun face. A nice combination of steepness and small sloping holds. Enough so that I didn't mind being forced into it. Indeed, the stem before the first bolt (as noted in the description) would take off some edge, but the bouldery start adds some excitement. Thoughtful and worthwhile, but what's with the shallow drill hole just left of one of the upper bolts?


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Meadow Dome : ... : Harvey (5.9)
By: Todd Felix When: Oct 6, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This line feels forced to me; the bolts don't follow where the rock leads you. Especially at the crux, as noted in the description (5.10 to follow the bolt line, easier in either direction). I also wonder if the arête just right would have been a better route. Bolts are reasonably spaced though, so it's a safe climb. Worth climbing I guess, if you're standing there...which you will be because this is where the trail meets the rock.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Without A Net (5.11+ PG13)
By: Todd Felix When: Jun 11, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks to Eric for his vision and work on this great new line! Lots of consistent 5.11 climbing. A bit sporty but not dangerous. Red point grade is probably 5.11b, but expect 5.11+ for the on-sight. There is at least one move which is less than obvious.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Uncompahgre Gorge aka Ouray... : Lower Bridge to Scottish Gu... : Chinese Water Torture (M8)
By: Todd Felix When: Jan 2, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: There is a 2-bolt anchor with chains and carabiners. This works better than the tree, but it is pretty exposed (you'll probably want to use the tree for protection if setting a TR off the bolts).

The new guidebook calls this M9 due to broken holds around the middle of the route which results in a blank move or 2 (or a 'long reach' that I cannot fathom). Has local consensus changed? I don't know, but I did find the move perplexingly blank.

And thank you, Jason, for clarifying High Tor vs CWT.... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Uncompahgre Gorge aka Ouray... : Lower Bridge to Scottish Gu... : LeSaucisson (M5)
By: Todd Felix When: Jan 2, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I've never found the fourth bolt. Perhaps it gets covered with ice or perhaps there are only 3 bolts. Either way, this makes the top out onto the ice a little heady (standing at the anchors may be ground-fall potential). And it feels more like M6 to me.

Also, you can start left or right. Starting left on positive holds leads to a cruxy traverse right; starting right is a bit less positive for the first few moves. Either way feels M6 to me.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Cobra : The Cobra (5.11- R)
By: Todd Felix When: Nov 7, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Great route, and incredible Photo opportunities! I agree with Skyler: the #4 camalot isn't necessary, and the #2 is a better piece. Maybe even a #1 fits there. Can't believe someone convinced me to lug the 4 up there. Oh well, not like you're carrying a bunch of gear for this thing: cordolette, screamer, and #2 is all I used. The cordolette around the neck is key; it was the first piece for me (5.8 or 5.9 R to there). And it needs to be pretty long; 10... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Storming the Castle (5.11)
By: Todd Felix When: Nov 4, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: This is a great route! And reasonably protected. It's too bad you kinda have to start on Curving Crack, but that doesn't make it a squeeze job; the rest of the route has spectacular, independent climbing. Very worthwhile addition. I can't believe I never climbed it before.

I do wonder about all the hammer (?) marks all over one of the middle bolts??


Location: CO : Buena Vista : Bob's Rock : Ego Buster (5.11a)
By: Todd Felix When: Jul 26, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: 'Climb to the ledge' to start the route. Well there are several ways to do this. What is the typical start for this climb?
1. 20 feet climbers' right is a moderate corner start, but this will offer no protection to a second who ascends the same start (you could probably fiddle a nut, but it would be too low to protect the 2nd and may pull out with the sideways pull to the next bolt). This is also way off the line of the climb and out of character with the rest of the route.
2. Right side of th... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Buckets of Rain (5.9)
By: Todd Felix When: Jul 19, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Felt easier than 5.10 to me, but perhaps I didn't follow the intended line. There was a lot of lichen and some loose rock, including a large flake toward the top (last 2 bolts) that seems like it should be trundled. The hardest part was trying to avoid that flake; it's the best hold around there. Maybe there's a good route under there, but it could use some cleaning.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Green Hornet (5.11b PG13)
By: Todd Felix When: Jun 11, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: My buddy and I both bailed off that first pitch due to hard climbing over uninspiring gear below the first bolt. Too bad because it's a stellar pitch (we did TR it). Now I think I know what the "key placement" is (not the stopper 20 feet below that Ross mentioned; the gear he thought wasn't worth fiddling with...and he may be right), but we didn't have that piece of gear at the time. Still, I'm not sure how excited I'll be to climb above that piece in the future--pretty thin gear, a... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : ... : Photo
By: Todd Felix When: Dec 7, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Technically that's pitch 3, but linking P1 + P2 makes sense.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress... : Soaring (5.11a)
By: Todd Felix When: Aug 28, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: OK, so we climbed this in 2010 and we really liked this PITCH. Pitch 3, that is, according to the write-up here. Pretty well bolted all the way up (9 bolts in 95 feet; you could bring a few smaller cams to supplement).

I thought this was a 1 pitch route (which starts 200+ feet off the ground), and that the other 2 pitches listed here as P1 & P2 were a different route called Strongback; just one way of several to get to Soaring. Regardless, there ARE other ways to get to... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : The Local Scoop (M7) : Photo
By: Todd Felix When: Dec 29, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: I'm pretty sure this is the route "Going Retro" based on the first piece of gear.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone
By: Todd Felix When: May 31, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: There is a new route on the arete just left of Batso as of 5/29/11. Aretnophobia. These are not the anchors that needstolearn is asking about.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Walking With A Ghost (5.11b/c)
By: Todd Felix When: May 31, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Beautiful line. Perhaps my favorite in the Canyon. Funny, Kirk always takes the same path, but I climb it a different way pretty much every time! Sometimes just for variety, sometimes the line calls to me differently that day. They all seem about the same difficulty, too. It's like a new on-sight every time.


Page 1 of 3.  1  2  3   Next>   Last>>