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Rock Climbing Photo: Fear and Loathing.


Member Since: Aug 30, 2010
Last Visit: Nov 24, 2016
Contact Toby Butterfield

Toby Butterfield
is a member of
Point Rank: # 3,525
Total Points: 196
Last Year: 1
Last 30 Days: 0
7 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Toby Butterfield been climbing?










Contributions


All 821 | Routes 5 | Areas 2 | Photos 12 | Page Improvements | Comments 49 | Posts 175 | Stars 336 | Ratings 242
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Valhalla : Drugs and Sex : Vitamin K (5.12b)
By: Toby Butterfield When: Jul 8, 2016

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Comments: Great route - like a harder version of Acid Mother Temple, albeit a bit more straightforward. Do not pass this one up!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Catalyst (aka Child Abuse) (5.12b)
By: Toby Butterfield When: Mar 10, 2014

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Comments: Also called Child Abuse in the Watt's book.

Having the draws hanging really helps on this one.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (l) Christian Brothers : Christian Brothers - East S... : Heresy (5.11c)
By: Toby Butterfield When: Feb 24, 2014

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Comments: I once saw a guy trying to stick clip the chains on this.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Valhalla : Superratic Pillar : Great White Behemoth (5.12b)
By: Toby Butterfield When: Sep 15, 2012

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Comments: This thing kicked my teeth in harder than any other 12b I jumped on, including Happiness. Powerful!


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Mecca : The Ark
By: Toby Butterfield When: Sep 15, 2012

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Comments: The rock might look kind of chossy but it feels bomber to me. Absolutely worth the hike to get away from folks on the weekend--the formation is really cool looking and the routes are very aesthetic, imo. They have good movement to back up their looks, as well!


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Mecca : The Ark : Born Again (5.11+)
By: Toby Butterfield When: Sep 15, 2012

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Comments: Guidebook calls this 11+/12-. I'd weigh in on it at 11c, but one of the girls I was with struggled way more than I'd expect her to on an 11c, so I'm gonna call it height dependent and leave it at that!


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Mecca : The Ark : July Jihad (5.12b)
By: Toby Butterfield When: Sep 15, 2012

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Comments: I definitely felt like the crux was a move from a tiny crimp up to a pinch right after you come out around the roof. Lovely climb, though, and unlike many others actually has a clipping stance for the anchors up in the churt.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Mecca : The Ark : Joy of Heresy (5.11d)
By: Toby Butterfield When: Sep 15, 2012

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Comments: There's a point on this route where I clipped from a mono, stared directly at a fossil the size of my forearm right at eye level, then reached up and grabbed another mono.

Stellar movement, stellar rock, stellar position. DO IT!

And do July Jihad while you're up there!


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Mondo Beyondo : World Domination : Captain Insano (5.11d)
By: Toby Butterfield When: Sep 3, 2012

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Comments: The holds on this are definitely not all jugs. Probably not even half of them are jugs! Great climb though.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Valhalla : Drugs and Sex : Vitamin I (5.11)
By: Toby Butterfield When: Sep 3, 2012

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Comments: I'm hesitant to rate this because it's in the wrong area and I'm not sure we're all talking about the same climb. I'd say Vitamin I (one or two routes left of Acid Mother Temple, climbs up some flakes on the lower section then a roof on jugs) is 11b, since it's a bit easier than the Face Melter Roof. Very nice climb though--not exactly classic but good.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Wall of Denial : Save The Best For Last (5.11)
By: Toby Butterfield When: Sep 3, 2012

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Comments: This route no longer exists due to rockfall.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Mondo Beyondo : Chaos Buttress : Time Machine Yogi (5.11c)
By: Toby Butterfield When: Aug 18, 2012

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Comments: This is worthy. A little more varied and harder to read than B-1 Bomber Dude. Bolts are spacey by Tensleep standards, but the climbing is good -- get to it!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (l) Christian Brothers : Christian Brothers - East S... : Ring of Fire (5.11d)
By: Toby Butterfield When: Jul 3, 2012

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Comments: While I disagree that this could be a good onsight--the crux is incredibly cryptic--if you put in the work to figure out the moves it climbs really well. Lovely route.

Be very discriminating in your choice of holds near the crux, there's a lot of worthless crap up there in addition to the few holds that are juuuuust good enough.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Animal Magnetism (5.11c)
By: Toby Butterfield When: Jun 13, 2012

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Comments: While I can see this route becoming vastly easier once you have the beta dialed, the lower crux is quite sequencey and the long sustained nature of the upper section can really wear you down if you don't do things just so. I actually think that, in contrast to routes like Free Willie which are obviously soft, that Animal Magnetism felt to me more like 11d while I was attempting to onsight it.

Regardless of the grade this is an amazing climb and absolutely worth getting after!


Location: CA : Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : Pillar of Society (5.12a)
By: Toby Butterfield When: May 13, 2012

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Comments: How in the heck do you start this thing?! I spent five minutes just trying to get off the ground! The handholds are there, but the feet start a few feet off the ground...


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Annunaki (5.11+)
By: Toby Butterfield When: May 7, 2012

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Comments: While the crack climbing is easy, the moves near the top, especially the final layback and moves on the jugs and into the last finger crack, would warrant a 5.12a grade at most sport crags. I know grades are stout at the creek and a lot of people who climb here are crushers, but I think this is a fair albeit slightly soft 5.12.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Chimney (5.9)
By: Toby Butterfield When: May 4, 2012

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Comments: Agreed that this is considerably harder than 5.8 by my usual standards. Just be advised that towers have their own standards of grading! Beautiful route. #5 Camalot was perfect for getting through the offwidth--there are some footholds inside the offwidth you can use to get the thing set, and then use it as a point of aid to get into a nice secure position if you're a punter like me.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Face (5.11-)
By: Toby Butterfield When: May 2, 2012

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Comments: If rapping with a single 70, you'll wind up downclimbing a ramp that is VERY exposed at the end of the very first rappel. Probably 5.5-5.6 if you're going up, but felt 5.7ish going down. You're not above a ledge or anything either -- mess up and you're 300 feet down and dead. I found this extremely unpleasant. Not a recommended rap route with a single 70 m rope IMO.

You could conceivably leave your ends un-knotted and rap off the end of your rope to the ledge with the rap station, but that woul... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Ruins Crack (5.11)
By: Toby Butterfield When: May 2, 2012

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Comments: Crap. Accidentally climbed this the other day... didn't realize it was off limits. I don't recall the plaque for the Fremont Culture Dwelling mentioning the climb -- maybe it could be updated?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : Tube Steaks Tomorrow (5.10+)
By: Toby Butterfield When: May 2, 2012

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Comments: Seconded, not sandy at all.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sweet Pain Wall : Slave to the Grind (5.11b)
By: Toby Butterfield When: Apr 1, 2012

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Comments: Like a harder version of Glitter Gulch. Fairly sustained, the climb just gets harder as you go up and the wall tips back. The holds are all fairly good if you can get the correct body position; like Glitter Gulch the abundance of large feet will save you from the pump!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : Fast Moving Train (5.11c)
By: Toby Butterfield When: Mar 29, 2012

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Comments: The route isn't too bad as a top rope problem, although the anchors are in a terrible place. It is god-awful to lead, though, because there are absolutely no clipping stances. Pretty unpleasant, honestly, and certainly not 11a.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Fairview Dome : Magical Mystery Tour (5.8 R)
By: Toby Butterfield When: Feb 6, 2012

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Comments: I just about shat myself watching my partner lead this in one of my first few days at Tuolumne. I realize that Tuolumne is known for its runouts but to give this route anything other than X is misleading. There are a few gear placements on the first pitch, but you're still facing 50+ feet of climbing where a fall would mean certain death.

For those of you who (unlike me) are well-versed in the way of climbing on nubs I'm sure the climbing is mellow. But the protection definitely deserves an X.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (a) Picnic Lunch Wall : Voyage of the Cowdog (5.9-)
By: Toby Butterfield When: Jan 16, 2012

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Comments: Thanks for putting this up, Jon. Really a great route with outrageous position considering the difficulty. I ran up this with a friend of mine at the end of a beautiful winter day, and it was just a blast. Definitely a memory I'll hold onto for a while!

The exposure on the third pitch is great. I would recommend folks be a bit careful on this route as it is fairly new and some of the rock is still loose; I kicked off a softball sized chunk on P3 and watched it free fall a few hundred ... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House : Dog Breath (5.10)
By: Toby Butterfield When: Dec 27, 2011

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Comments: Going straight up the bolt line is doable and definitely no more difficult than 11a at the most relative to the other climbs at this crag. Does look easier out left, but I didn't repeat it, so I don't know how much easier. Fun climb, good movement down low!


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