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Member Since: Jun 2, 2006
Last Visit: Oct 5, 2017
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Tim Wolfe
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Point Rank: # 220
Total Points: 2,870

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 1890 | Routes 51 | Areas 27 | Approach Trails | Photos 391 | Page Improvements | Comments 248 | Posts 6 | Stars 632 | Ratings 535
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Texas Wall / West Velve... : Twixt Cradle and Stone (5.10d)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Jun 18, 2017

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Comments: Fun route. We combined pitches 2/3 and 4/5 to limit hanging belay time (we had twin 60 meter ropes and were able to combine these pitches. The 7th pitch moves right of the belay into a thin crack in a left facing corner - tricky pro from tiny cams to flared 3 inch placement. After the corner drift up and slightly rightwards until below the belay, then climb back up left to the chains. The 8th pitch goes up and slightly right past some small roofs then drifts back up and leftwards on easier terra... more >>


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Bloodline (5.10d)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Jun 16, 2017

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Comments: I loved this route - both pitches. The first one is a bit more heady and the second is absolutely brilliant fingers with great feet and plenty of rests. One of my favorite cruiser cracks in the park.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Challenger Wall : Challenger (5.10d PG13)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Jun 16, 2017

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Comments: Pretty darn hard - every pitch. Stout for the grade. We thought the 4th pitch was the crux - we went straight up the very thin corner ending at a small roof then moving right. Both of us logged some air high on that corner turning a blank slippery bulge about 40 feet up. Have your head on for this route - luckily my partner was in the zone, I got spanked.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Jet Stream Wall : Tooth or Consequences (5.11a)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Jun 16, 2017

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Comments: I enjoyed the route due to the remote location and easy cruising up an isolated section of rock. I don't think it offers the quality seen in many other routes in the park including routes above and below this route. I kind of thought the first 30 feet was the crux. The upper crux on the last pitch is just a few side pulls with great feet to huge jugs and a clip - 5.10ish, not 5.11 I think. We linked 1/2, 3/4, and 6/7 with 60 meter twin lines no problem. All the bolts are 1/4 inch including ... more >>


Location: Wyoming : Wind River Range : East Fork Valley : Gash Peak - Golden Dihedral (5.9+ PG13)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Mar 10, 2016

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Comments: I thought this was a great route. I am surprised so few comments exist. Classic line, great climbing, good cracks, good gear in stellar alpine wall. I have no idea what the rating would be now in the new millineum - seemed about right for the grade at the time but I don't recall what it was rated back then. I have always found a (+) rating harder than the grade above (-) rating so 5.9+ would then have implied sustained, pumpy climbing while 5.10- tended to have one hard move but little sustained... more >>


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Thumb Area : Robbins' Route (5.10)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Jan 11, 2016

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Comments: I kind of thought the 3rd pitch was mank, and I am not adverse to groveling.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Thumb Area : S-Matrix (5.10d)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Jan 11, 2016

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Comments: This is a more complex line than the others on this wall requiring some traversing, down climbing, hard slab moves, crack climbing. Unfortunately it hooks up higher on the wall with a very poor quality line - the Robbins route, making the climbing less appealing. I guess you can go left to lunch ledge though and skip the ending.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Altered States Gully : Angel's Ladder (5.10d R)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Jan 11, 2016

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Comments: A very thin slab - basically no holds, just pure friction and you sometimes have to move before you slide of the transient friction hold you are on. Do this on a cold day. Both my partner and I logged big air on this route when we led it. One more of those LCC routes that will make you a master at slabs if your calf muscles are fit enough.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : Dark Horse (5.11 R)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Jan 11, 2016

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Comments: Despite many tries over 30 years I have yet to free that roof move. Tough route!


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gargoyle Wall : Confession (A1+)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Jan 11, 2016

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Comments: I climbed this solo in 1985 when it was rated "A4" - no chance of that rating. It did have some great thin nailing with tied off pins and maybe some RURPs if I recall, but there was no risk of a big fall. Not sure how it would be rated now with tiny brass and microcams. Regardless it is a really good training route right here in LCC if you want to get ready for a big nail-up in the Valley or some other granite wall.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : Guano Wall : Guano Roof (5.10d)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Jan 11, 2016

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Comments: I do recall that the knee bar/heel hook is the key - basically you can lock it in, let go, shake, reach up, re-jam, place gear, etc. Total circus trick.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Plumb Line Gully : Zot (5.11d R)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Jan 11, 2016

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Comments: I have never known anyone else to climb this route. George and I spent many hours over a few days trying to free this route (it was put in ground up, hand drilled). We each fell 30-40 times off the first moves - the crux. Finally and improbably - George stuck the move and got up on top of the chicken head. I tossed him the drill. He put two bolts in the middle section, clipped the 3rd bolt after drilling it and climbed to the top. The R rating is all about the final third of the route - 5.8 unp... more >>


Location: Wyoming : Wind River Range : Deep Lake Area : Steeple Peak : West face Major dihedral (5.11 R)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Oct 29, 2015

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Comments: Yeah, good point. I removed the comment saying belay bolts would make it a classic. We did it safely with no hammer, drill or pitons (my wife was 8 months pregnant and she was able to climb it) and I am totally in line with the no power drills ever here in the Winds. (I am going to have to vote for carrying a hand drill for safety while new routing in this range though - rarely needed but prudent). The climbing on this route protects fine. Just be thoughtful about finding safe belays - maybe bri... more >>


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Steel Monkey (5.10+)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Sep 29, 2015

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Comments: Crazy that I just noticed this after 2 years.
That's good. I like Gobbling the dream of the yellow turkey or just Gobbling the Yellow Turkey. Uses the names of the original FA but Kim can call it whatever he wants.
This is another nice combo. As Kim suggests, many of us did this combo right after these lines were established in the mid 1980's - I think before Fiddler existed and when there were signs on the rock indicating all the different lines. At that time most of the new bolted routes we... more >>


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Averau, Nuvolau, Croda da L... : Lastoni di Formin : ... : Photo
By: Tim Wolfe When: Dec 30, 2014

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Comments: The south face of Lastoni di Formin sector is called Spiz de Mondeval on some maps and in some guides. To get there you hike over that pass in the background and the face it the cliff peaking out to the left of the pass.


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Averau, Nuvolau, Croda da L... : Lastoni di Formin : ... : Photo
By: Tim Wolfe When: Dec 30, 2014

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Comments: Re Artu line up Spiz de Mondeval


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Averau, Nuvolau, Croda da L... : Lastoni di Formin : ... : Photo
By: Tim Wolfe When: Dec 30, 2014

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Comments: Nikibi in Yellow, Paolo Amedeo in Red. Photo compliments of Jan-Thijs


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Averau, Nuvolau, Croda da L...
By: Tim Wolfe When: Dec 3, 2014

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Comments: The Nuvolau group include Averau and Gusela - all in one little crag just north of Passo Giau. We have separated Cinque Torri as its own group just due to all the small peaks and climbs there, but all these crags and small summits are adjacent to one another. Lastoni di Formin is right across the road from the same pass and Croda da Lago is adjacent to it. So all these crags/mountains are included in a single "group" as any climber would access them all from the same parking area or one very clo... more >>


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Tofana Group : Tofana di Rozes : ... : Photo
By: Tim Wolfe When: Nov 26, 2014

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Comments: Traverse then head up following red dots (often lost in the snow) over the col. At that point you descend back down and pick up trail 403 to your car. DO NOT try to go down right off of the routes despite all the false trails (vertical kitty litter below).


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Tofana Group : Tofana di Rozes : Photo
By: Tim Wolfe When: Nov 26, 2014

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Comments: This is the right side of the south face of the mountain - buttress 1 and 2. This area contains many hard and classic lines of 10-18 pitches. However, the larger walls of the mountain as well as many other climbing sectors exist off to the left of this photo.


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Drei ... : Cima Piccolissima : ... : Photo
By: Tim Wolfe When: Nov 25, 2014

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Comments: The Cassin route is on the Yellow overhanging face around the corner to the left of the Preussriss route. The best approach is from the point of this photo (the Forcella di Lavaredo) walking along the ridge at the bottom of the photo until under the route.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Sweet Thin (5.9)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Nov 22, 2014

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Comments: The direct line up Mayday Malefactor was a nice start with some interesting climbing - worth doing. The flake is pretty cool and totally bolt protected. The next pitch is fun but pretty fat - I had two #3 and two #4 and one #4.5 and used them all including moving several of them up the pitch as I went.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Magic Mountain : Community Pillar (5.9)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Nov 22, 2014

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Comments: Crazy route. Totally worth doing for the unique climbing. Be sure you can strip everything off your body to make the squeeze moves on pitch 1 and on the cave pitch. To me the best pitch was the "5.9" hand crack. Just climb the overhanging corner straight above the belay (not to the right towards the off width) - it has great holds, good stemming and bomber gear. Continue straight up for a full 70 meters of great varied sized crack climbing to the belay in the cave (just as you run out of rope). ... more >>


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Averau, Nuvolau, Croda da L... : Lastoni di Formin : Via Paulo Amedeo (Torrione ... (5.8)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Sep 9, 2014

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Comments: It can be a bit confusing with all the names so if you are looking for this (Torrione Marcella peak) it is a sub-peak of the Lastoni di Formin formation - the left hand aspect of that large plateaus West Face. Many maps will not list this sub peak name but should have Croda da Lago (ridge just behind it to the East) and Lastoni di Formin formation written on them. Right next to this route (Paolo Amedeo)is a bolted route - the first 50 meters only have 2 bolts but the rest is well bolted. Be awar... more >>


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Averau, Nuvolau, Croda da L... : Photo
By: Tim Wolfe When: Sep 9, 2014

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Comments: If you have a high resolution map of the area, this specific view shows the West face of the Lastoni di Formin plateau. Behind it (tips of crags sticking up) is the Croda Da lago ridgeline which is accessed down hill a few kilometers (down road) on path 436 which skirts north of this face and turns back up to that formation. The left hand aspect of this photo has Nikibi (6b+ - about 5.11a) and Paolo Amedeo (about 5.8) ending together and then descending the gully at the far left of the photo. Th... more >>


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