Comments: To get to the start, go up as if you are going to Lotta Balls and continue up the normal down climb for that route (after the rappels). There is an obvious escape left at a big ledge and a cairn where you can access the start.
Pitch 2 - if I do it again I will have 3 #2 cams (I only had 1). Pitch 5 - a #4 is too small for most of the wide crack. I would bring at least a #5 if you want to protect and don't use your #3 on the belay.