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Member Since: Feb 6, 2012
Last Visit: 14 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 3,358
Total Points: 208
Last Year: 58
Last 30 Days: 6
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has the schmuck been climbing?










Contributions


All 639 | Routes 12 | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 88 | Posts 325 | Stars 154 | Ratings 60
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Sunny and Steep : Mr Choad's Wild Ride (5.11b)
By: the schmuck When: Nov 28, 2016

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Comments: Spooky (but safe) and excellent.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Sunny and Steep : Black Happy (5.11d)
By: the schmuck When: Nov 28, 2016

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Comments: Really fun and sustained crimping through the first four bolts. There are no stopper moves, and for how thin it is, it is not sharp.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sweet Pain Wall : Sweet Pain (5.11d)
By: the schmuck When: Nov 28, 2016

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Comments: I was kind of disappointed with this one. It is short, with a brief and bouldery crux. I am on the shorter side, and the jugs out left didn't work. Crimping straight through felt much more obvious and easier.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sweet Pain Wall : Glitter Gulch (5.11a)
By: the schmuck When: Nov 28, 2016

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Comments: Whatever the grade, this is a phenomenal warm-up for the rest of the wall.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sweet Pain Wall : Slave to the Grind (5.11b)
By: the schmuck When: Nov 28, 2016

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Comments: Little pumpy, and super fun!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sweet Pain Wall : Pain in the Neck (5.10 R)
By: the schmuck When: Nov 28, 2016

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Comments: I do not think that you would deck if you blew the second bolt, at least not with a good belay. Still, it probably is not the best warm-up as the start is pretty stiff, crimpy and sharp for the grade. The route is decent and fun however.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Witches' Canyon : Main Canyon : Woof (5.10c)
By: the schmuck When: Oct 17, 2016

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Comments: Location is between 'Drugs Are Nice' and 'Razor Hueco.' There is a route going up the left side of the roof that is allegedly .12. Awkward start with a cool headwall.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Witches' Canyon : Main Canyon : Witches' Tit (5.12b)
By: the schmuck When: Oct 17, 2016

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Comments: Nice climb, but moving past the third bolt felt awfully blank and hard for the grade (leaving the hueco feature left of bolt). The remainder is hard but reasonable crimping covered by lichen. The one old open shut anchor that is over the edge is just kind of silly.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Entrance Area : Loony Toons (5.10b/c)
By: the schmuck When: Oct 17, 2016

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Comments: I do not recall any 'bolt protected crack climbing' on this. There is a seam going to the first bolt, but I doubt you could get decent pro in. It does open into decent but shallow pods right before bolt 3, with a good horizontal, & I suppose that you could get some creative but okay pro there. This is a good route. 7 bolts.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Vault : Pocket Change (5.11d PG13)
By: the schmuck When: Sep 26, 2016

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Comments: This is a pile! Looks great, but there is nothing pleasant or fun about this route. It is not anywhere near 11+ either. Bailed on last bolt in exasperation.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Solar Flex (5.11c)
By: the schmuck When: Sep 18, 2016

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Comments: Much harder crux than its neighbor. Using the rest to the right leaves you a bit marooned. A harder send than Arnold Arnold.


Location: WY : Lander Area : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Right Side : Rooster Cogburn (5.11d)
By: the schmuck When: Sep 6, 2016

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Comments: Middle crux is pretty thin with bad feet. I can see 12- on this section alone. Bottom and top cruxes are quite simple in comparison. Quality route!


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Mondo Beyondo : Cody Night Rodeo (and the B... : Cowgirls Smuggling Yo-Yo's (5.11b)
By: the schmuck When: Sep 5, 2016

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Comments: It has cleaned up, and is quite fun. It is still sharp however, and anchors are Metolius rap bolts :-(.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Comales Canyon : Fire Wall and Upper Tier : The Anvil (5.11a)
By: the schmuck When: Aug 21, 2016

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Comments: This is probably the worst route at Fire wall. It is awkward and chossy, and probably harder than most, or all of the 11s on the wall. I gave it a second star only because the wife kind of liked it, and it is well bolted.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Comales Canyon : Fire Wall and Upper Tier : Toast (5.11d)
By: the schmuck When: Aug 8, 2016

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Comments: Thought the slab between bolts 2 and 3 was the crux. Really fun route.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Comales Canyon : Fire Wall and Upper Tier : Fire Walker (5.11a)
By: the schmuck When: Jul 23, 2016

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Comments: Never hard, but pretty sustained. Very fun.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Comales Canyon : Fire Wall and Upper Tier : The Egg (5.11a)
By: the schmuck When: Jul 23, 2016

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Comments: Not as sustained as its neighbor, but has a nice crux. Fun.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Comales Canyon : Fire Wall and Upper Tier : Reignite (5.11+)
By: the schmuck When: Jul 23, 2016

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Comments: The start is rotten, but the route is fantastic.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Comales Canyon : Fire Wall and Upper Tier : Still Smokin (5.10d)
By: the schmuck When: Jul 23, 2016

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Comments: The rock quality is a little flaky, and the nature of the climbing is cryptic, but the climbing is steep and fun. Worth doing.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Comales Canyon : Fire Wall and Upper Tier : Fiyo (5.11+)
By: the schmuck When: Jul 11, 2016

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Comments: Very bouldery crux off the ground goes to easy climbing, and is followed by easier cruxes through couple more bulges, interspersed by more very easy climbing. Not very sustained, a little sandy, and not as fun as other routes on this wall.


Location: NM : El Rito : Little River Wall : Main Wall : Bloody Turnip (5.10c)
By: the schmuck When: Jun 26, 2016

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Comments: The crux on this thing is pretty much rotten choss. Scary to think that it has "cleaned up." At least it is very generously bolted.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Low Standard Cave : Nipple Stud (5.11b)
By: the schmuck When: May 31, 2016

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Comments: Fun for being so short. Hard, thin start, to a gymnastic but easier finish.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Minimum Crag : Afterglow (5.11d)
By: the schmuck When: May 31, 2016

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Comments: Really fun route with a bit of a thin crux. Fair bit harder than the other 11+'s at Minimum.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Beer Block : BYOB (5.12c)
By: the schmuck When: May 22, 2016

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Comments: Clipping the last bolt seems to be THE crux for me. Fun.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Tornado Alley : Unknown aka Left of Black S... (5.11d)
By: the schmuck When: Mar 27, 2016

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Comments: This is much more fun than it looks. It is also more sustained than "Spidergrind," but with an easier crux.


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