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Member Since: Feb 6, 2012
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 5,443
Total Points: 110

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 1008 | Routes 11 | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 114 | Posts 593 | Stars 202 | Ratings 88
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado > Canon City > Shelf Road > The Bank > Emperor's Robe (5.11d)
By: the schmuck When: Nov 13, 2017

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Comments: Good route but not as good as the 11+'s on the right side of the wall. 6 bolts, not 7, and felt a little sporty (especially going to the 3rd bolt).


Location: Colorado > Canon City > Shelf Road > Cactus Cliff > Jumpin' the Gun (5.11c)
By: the schmuck When: Nov 13, 2017

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Comments: Ugh, not sure why this gets 3 stars. The climbing is mostly awkward and painful. It is stiff for the grade when one stays on the bolt line, soft when one wonders about, and generally not that fun. Fun moves do exist through the overhang over the last 2 bolts, but then you are essentially climbing a refrigerator-size block that is fractured around its perimeter and sounds hollow. Cannot really say much good about this rig.


Location: North America > Canada > Alberta > Banff National Park > Lake Louise > ... > Rubber Lover (5.11c)
By: the schmuck When: Nov 7, 2017

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Comments: Sweet and short. Good, powerful fun. Could use new bolts.


Location: New Mexico > New Mexico, other Southern ... > Sitting Bull Falls > Big Horn Wall > It is not Necessary for Eag... (5.12c)
By: the schmuck When: Nov 6, 2017

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Comments: Probably more than a one move crux, but yeah...hard boulder problem between bolts 3 & 4.


Location: New Mexico > New Mexico, other Southern ... > Sitting Bull Falls > Rose Bud Wall > Firewater (5.10b)
By: the schmuck When: Nov 6, 2017

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Comments: Very nice route. Watch out for loose flake below last bulge.


Location: New Mexico > New Mexico, other Southern ... > Sitting Bull Falls > Rose Bud Wall > Wounded Knee (5.10a)
By: the schmuck When: Nov 6, 2017

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Comments: Maybe a little harder than the 10b to the left. Lots of bolts (11) for how long it is.


Location: New Mexico > New Mexico, other Southern ... > Sitting Bull Falls > Rose Bud Wall > Six Little Indians (5.10c)
By: the schmuck When: Nov 6, 2017

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Comments: Best 10 at sitting bull. Headwall is hard for grade if you climb straight up.


Location: New Mexico > New Mexico, other Southern ... > Sitting Bull Falls > Big Horn Wall > On the Prowl (5.10d)
By: the schmuck When: Nov 6, 2017

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Comments: This is actually a nice route that starts out steep and finishes techy. I give it just two stars only because all else at sitting bull is just so good.


Location: New Mexico > Jemez Mountains and Jemez V... > Upper East Fork (UEF) > Monster Wall > Predator (5.12a)
By: the schmuck When: Oct 15, 2017

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Comments: Super fun route. Quite stiff and sharp climbing straight through the crux.


Location: New Mexico > Jemez Mountains and Jemez V... > Upper East Fork (UEF) > Monster Wall > Grendal (5.10b)
By: the schmuck When: Oct 15, 2017

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Comments: Very nice route, but dare I say that a mantle with bad feet to an invisible jug crimp around an arête is probably not 10b. I tried to avoid the arête on the lower from the anchors and go straight through without using the arête, and it felt even harder. More like 10+.


Location: New Mexico > Jemez Mountains and Jemez V... > Upper East Fork (UEF) > The Bull Horn > Excrementally Weighted (5.10c)
By: the schmuck When: Oct 15, 2017

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Comments: Great route, and a good warmup. But, it is a little reachy and stiff at the grade. The route is no longer dirty at all.


Location: Utah > Maple Canyon > Right Fork > The Minimum Crag > Minimum Effort (5.10d)
By: the schmuck When: Jul 5, 2017

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Comments: The choss isn't bad if you stay on route, but it is sandy. The actual climbing is fun, but the bolting is excessive and kind of funky, with clips in not the most logical locations.


Location: Utah > Maple Canyon > Right Fork > The Pipe Dream > Le Spunk (5.11d)
By: the schmuck When: Jul 5, 2017

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Comments: Great route. Easy finish detracts.


Location: Colorado > South Platte > Devil's Head > Hole in the Wall > Protege (5.11d)
By: the schmuck When: Jun 19, 2017

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Comments: Stellar. Stays on you for the first 5 bolts, and then finishes as a super fun jug haul.


Location: Colorado > South Platte > Devil's Head > Hole in the Wall > The Apprentice (5.10d)
By: the schmuck When: Jun 19, 2017

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Comments: There is no traverse to the first bolt, and I have no clue where you could place a nut before the first bolt. A line of edges starts right below the bolt. Very fun line. 12 bolts and anchors.


Location: New Mexico > Enchanted Tower > The Enchanted Tower > South/Southeast (Right) Fac... > Medusa (5.12c)
By: the schmuck When: Jun 12, 2017

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Comments: Medusa is a good route worth doing. The rock is not so bad.


Location: New Mexico > Enchanted Tower > Pogue's Cave Area > POGy WOG (5.11)
By: the schmuck When: Jun 11, 2017

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Comments: Careful with the top out. Showered belayer with rocks, establishing on anchor ledge. Very top and bottom 3 bolts are still cleaning up. Fun arête in the middle


Location: New Mexico > Enchanted Tower
By: the schmuck When: May 22, 2017

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Comments: ATTENTION: we have been hiking in this past spring from the highway. Although this is a nice 40 minute hike, this approach may not be an option anymore. Although the vast majority of the hike is on USFS land, you do need to cross a narrow strip of private land. This past weekend "no trespassing" signs sprouted along the fence line, and a note was left on our car, courtesy of Quien Sabe Cattle Company. They own the strip of land from FS Road 6 all the way to the Cleveland ranch, so the... more >>


Location: New Mexico > Enchanted Tower > Humpty Dumpty Wall > All the Kings Horses (5.12-)
By: the schmuck When: Apr 24, 2017

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Comments: Fun climbing on terrible rock. Exploded a key pocket and several edges while working this. Also sent down a dinner plate size chunk. I was hoping that this rig would clean up since I last got on it about 3 years ago, but it does not seem that it did. Maybe more traffic is needed?


Location: New Mexico > Enchanted Tower > The Enchanted Tower > North (Left) Face > White Witch (5.12a/b)
By: the schmuck When: Apr 24, 2017

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Comments: This is not a terrible route, but after doing or being on everything 12c and under on the Tower, I'd say that it is the worst of the lot. There remain significant chossy sections, and the climbing can be confusing and not very flowy. Regardless, this is a fun route that is quite solid and cryptic at 12-. An anchor at the last bolt would be nice, as one could avoid the last two bolts of 10- jug hauling on Rumple (would make cleaning easier).


Location: New Mexico > New Mexico, other Southern ... > Last Chance Canyon > Mad Cow Wall > Shakka (5.11c)
By: the schmuck When: Mar 20, 2017

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Comments: Great route. Thought that this one was a bit thinner and more sustained than Cutter (which is also a very nice route)


Location: New Mexico > New Mexico, other Southern ... > The Tunnel > Shady Side > Mid-Town > El Nino (5.11b)
By: the schmuck When: Feb 13, 2017

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Comments: Really nice route with a hard to read power-endurance crux after the last bolt.


Location: New Mexico > New Mexico, other Southern ... > The Tunnel > Shady Side > Mid-Town > Pokey (5.11a)
By: the schmuck When: Feb 13, 2017

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Comments: Staying in the crack after the big horizontal makes no sense. Going straight up the bolt line is devious, techy, and stout at the grade, but also very fun.


Location: New Mexico > New Mexico, other Southern ... > The Tunnel > Shady Side > Mid-Town > Cliff Nazi (5.9)
By: the schmuck When: Feb 13, 2017

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Comments: This is not a terrible route to warmup on, but it really isn't a .9 either. For a .10 warmup it isn't bad, and does acclimatize one to the typical Tunnel slopers. The hardware is getting pretty rusty on this rig, but that is also pretty normal for the shady side.


Location: Colorado > Canon City > Shelf Road > Sand Gulch > Contest Wall > Lime and Punishment (5.11b/c)
By: the schmuck When: Feb 5, 2017

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Comments: Very good route, but dare I say a bit solid at 11c. Significantly harder than its neighbors Silverado and Regroovable.


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