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Member Since: Feb 6, 2012
Last Visit: 13 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 4,211
Total Points: 110

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has the schmuck been climbing?










Contributions


All 854 | Routes 11 | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 103 | Posts 481 | Stars 182 | Ratings 77
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Utah : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Minimum Crag : Minimum Effort (5.10d)
By: the schmuck When: Jul 5, 2017

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Comments: The choss isn't bad if you stay on route, but it is sandy. The actual climbing is fun, but the bolting is excessive and kind of funky, with clips in not the most logical locations.


Location: Utah : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Pipe Dream : Le Spunk (5.11d)
By: the schmuck When: Jul 5, 2017

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Comments: Great route. Easy finish detracts.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Devil's Head : Hole in the Wall : Protege (5.11d)
By: the schmuck When: Jun 19, 2017

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Comments: Stellar. Stays on you for the first 5 bolts, and then finishes as a super fun jug haul.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Devil's Head : Hole in the Wall : The Apprentice (5.10d)
By: the schmuck When: Jun 19, 2017

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Comments: There is no traverse to the first bolt, and I have no clue where you could place a nut before the first bolt. A line of edges starts right below the bolt. Very fun line. 12 bolts and anchors.


Location: New Mexico : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : South/Southeast (Right) Fac... : Medusa (5.12c)
By: the schmuck When: Jun 12, 2017

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Comments: Medusa is a good route worth doing. The rock is not so bad.


Location: New Mexico : Enchanted Tower : Pogue's Cave Area : POGy WOG (5.11)
By: the schmuck When: Jun 11, 2017

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Comments: Careful with the top out. Showered belayer with rocks, establishing on anchor ledge. Very top and bottom 3 bolts are still cleaning up. Fun arête in the middle


Location: New Mexico : Enchanted Tower
By: the schmuck When: May 22, 2017

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Comments: ATTENTION: we have been hiking in this past spring from the highway. Although this is a nice 40 minute hike, this approach may not be an option anymore. Although the vast majority of the hike is on USFS land, you do need to cross a narrow strip of private land. This past weekend "no trespassing" signs sprouted along the fence line, and a note was left on our car, courtesy of Quien Sabe Cattle Company. They own the strip of land from FS Road 6 all the way to the Cleveland ranch, so the... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Enchanted Tower : Humpty Dumpty Wall : All the Kings Horses (5.12-)
By: the schmuck When: Apr 24, 2017

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Comments: Fun climbing on terrible rock. Exploded a key pocket and several edges while working this. Also sent down a dinner plate size chunk. I was hoping that this rig would clean up since I last got on it about 3 years ago, but it does not seem that it did. Maybe more traffic is needed?


Location: New Mexico : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : North (Left) Face : White Witch (5.12a/b)
By: the schmuck When: Apr 24, 2017

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Comments: This is not a terrible route, but after doing or being on everything 12c and under on the Tower, I'd say that it is the worst of the lot. There remain significant chossy sections, and the climbing can be confusing and not very flowy. Regardless, this is a fun route that is quite solid and cryptic at 12-. An anchor at the last bolt would be nice, as one could avoid the last two bolts of 10- jug hauling on Rumple (would make cleaning easier).


Location: New Mexico : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Mad Cow Wall : Shakka (5.11c)
By: the schmuck When: Mar 20, 2017

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Comments: Great route. Thought that this one was a bit thinner and more sustained than Cutter (which is also a very nice route)


Location: New Mexico : New Mexico, other Southern ... : The Tunnel : Shady Side : Mid-Town : El Nino (5.11b)
By: the schmuck When: Feb 13, 2017

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Comments: Really nice route with a hard to read power-endurance crux after the last bolt.


Location: New Mexico : New Mexico, other Southern ... : The Tunnel : Shady Side : Mid-Town : Pokey (5.11a)
By: the schmuck When: Feb 13, 2017

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Comments: Staying in the crack after the big horizontal makes no sense. Going straight up the bolt line is devious, techy, and stout at the grade, but also very fun.


Location: New Mexico : New Mexico, other Southern ... : The Tunnel : Shady Side : Mid-Town : Cliff Nazi (5.9)
By: the schmuck When: Feb 13, 2017

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Comments: This is not a terrible route to warmup on, but it really isn't a .9 either. For a .10 warmup it isn't bad, and does acclimatize one to the typical Tunnel slopers. The hardware is getting pretty rusty on this rig, but that is also pretty normal for the shady side.


Location: Colorado : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Lime and Punishment (5.11b/c)
By: the schmuck When: Feb 5, 2017

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Comments: Very good route, but dare I say a bit solid at 11c. Significantly harder than its neighbors Silverado and Regroovable.


Location: Colorado : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Stick It (5.11a)
By: the schmuck When: Jan 5, 2017

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Comments: Very sharp and hard to read. However, this is not a bad route and is actually quite fun. Bolt placements didn't seem particularly well thought out. Felt a hair harder than Lime Street.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Sunny and Steep : Mr Choad's Wild Ride (5.11b)
By: the schmuck When: Nov 28, 2016

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Comments: Spooky (but safe) and excellent.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Sunny and Steep : Black Happy (5.11d)
By: the schmuck When: Nov 28, 2016

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Comments: Really fun and sustained crimping through the first four bolts. There are no stopper moves, and for how thin it is, it is not sharp.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sweet Pain Wall : Sweet Pain (5.11d)
By: the schmuck When: Nov 28, 2016

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Comments: I was kind of disappointed with this one. It is short, with a brief and bouldery crux. I am on the shorter side, and the jugs out left didn't work. Crimping straight through felt much more obvious and easier.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sweet Pain Wall : Glitter Gulch (5.11a)
By: the schmuck When: Nov 28, 2016

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Comments: Whatever the grade, this is a phenomenal warm-up for the rest of the wall.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sweet Pain Wall : Slave to the Grind (5.11b)
By: the schmuck When: Nov 28, 2016

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Comments: Little pumpy, and super fun!


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sweet Pain Wall : Pain in the Neck (5.10 R)
By: the schmuck When: Nov 28, 2016

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Comments: I do not think that you would deck if you blew the second bolt, at least not with a good belay. Still, it probably is not the best warm-up as the start is pretty stiff, crimpy and sharp for the grade. The route is decent and fun however.


Location: Colorado : San Luis Valley : Witches' Canyon : Main Canyon : Woof (5.10c)
By: the schmuck When: Oct 17, 2016

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Comments: Location is between 'Drugs Are Nice' and 'Razor Hueco.' There is a route going up the left side of the roof that is allegedly .12. Awkward start with a cool headwall.


Location: Colorado : San Luis Valley : Witches' Canyon : Main Canyon : Witches' Tit (5.12b)
By: the schmuck When: Oct 17, 2016

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Comments: Nice climb, but moving past the third bolt felt awfully blank and hard for the grade (leaving the hueco feature left of bolt). The remainder is hard but reasonable crimping covered by lichen. The one old open shut anchor that is over the edge is just kind of silly.


Location: Colorado : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Entrance Area : Loony Toons (5.10b/c)
By: the schmuck When: Oct 17, 2016

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Comments: I do not recall any 'bolt protected crack climbing' on this. There is a seam going to the first bolt, but I doubt you could get decent pro in. It does open into decent but shallow pods right before bolt 3, with a good horizontal, & I suppose that you could get some creative but okay pro there. This is a good route. 7 bolts.


Location: Colorado : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Vault : Pocket Change (5.11d PG13)
By: the schmuck When: Sep 26, 2016

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Comments: This is a pile! Looks great, but there is nothing pleasant or fun about this route. It is not anywhere near 11+ either. Bailed on last bolt in exasperation.


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