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Rock Climbing Photo: Freaking Maverick over here


Member Since: Jun 21, 2013
Last Visit: 47 mins ago
Contact The Blueprint Part Dank

Point Rank: # 1,670
Total Points: 464
Last Year: 131
Last 30 Days: 5
2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has The Blueprint Part Dank been climbing?










The Blueprint Part Dank

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 1025 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 83 | Page Improvements | Comments 39 | Posts 831 | Stars 37 | Ratings 34
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Mudslide (5.10+)
By: The Blueprint Part Dank When: Oct 29, 2016

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Comments: Let me be the big-handed contrarian here... but I love the hell out of this route. It's position alone warrants three stars, climbing up into the intersection of the Annunaki pillar and the rest of the Optimator Wall is a very humbling experience, giving you a sense of how you fit into the massive scale of the creek (which we don't think about as much as we do the first 100-ish feet of most climbs. And then, you get to the climbing, which is actually prett... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Sister Superior Group : Jah Man (5.10c)
By: The Blueprint Part Dank When: Oct 29, 2016

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Comments: Well, having finally knocked this off my list, I am officially jealous of folks with smaller hands! I consider BD #3's to be a hand-crack size.... and so I was in for a rude awakening on Jah Man. The first 5.10+ pitch wasn't too bad, speed and decisive footwork got me through without much sweat. But then as I lead into the second 10+ pitch I got a RUDE awakening as I tried to shove my fat mitts into the crack. I didn't wear tape g... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Born Under Punches (5.10a PG13)
By: The Blueprint Part Dank When: Oct 2, 2016

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Comments: I WAS able to place a #4 C4 at the loose roof section, it was a blind-ish placement to the left as you start pulling up through the roof, but as I cleaned the route, I was able to take a good look at it, and I think it was a pretty bomber placement.

I think that a #4 Friend would be an even better fit, but the #4 C4 did work.

My rack (C4s):
1x #0.5
1x #0.75
1x #1
2x #2
2x #3
1x #4.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Hurley Direct (5.10a)
By: The Blueprint Part Dank When: Jul 18, 2016

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Comments: For guys with big hands (i.e., can hand jam #3s) like myself, this route looks awfully hard from the ground, seeming to require super thin locks....

And well, it does, but it's shockingly easy given how small the finger locks are (I had five pinkie and ring-finger locks consecutively through the crux), part of this was due to the plethora of good footholds, but the jams themselves, while small, are shockingly secure, similar to the gear, which is small, but bomber.

Hi... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Pool of Blood (5.9)
By: The Blueprint Part Dank When: May 29, 2016

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Comments: The route presents a bit of a rope-drag quandary. If you place long enough runners to avoid rope drag at the initial (crux) handcrack, you're probably going to deck in the event of a fall, but if you don't place long runners, the rope drag when you transition to the Duh Dihedral will be horrific. The solution we came up with was to have the leader tie into both ends of the rope, clipping one side to the gear in the fist crack, then transitioning to Duh Dihedral, clipping the other end of the rop... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Pool of Blood (5.9)
By: The Blueprint Part Dank When: May 29, 2016

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Comments: Felt a little bit easy for a 5.9, though I have big hands, so the jams were much less strenuous for me than for most folks. Regardless of grade, if you're up at Cirque of the Cracks, do yourself a favor and climb this unexpected gem.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Cactus Flower Tower : Cactus Flower Tower Summit : The Warrior (5.11a)
By: The Blueprint Part Dank When: May 7, 2016

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Comments: P3 was not the Indian Creek-style splitter I was expecting, sure, the crack is pretty damn splitter, but the tight flared corner prevents you from actually getting progressive hand jams for upward progress. You can get either a right, or a left hand/fist jam, but your real movement is from arm-bars, knee-bars and chimney technique with the opposite side of your body.... Very strange pitch.

Also, for the pitch one chimney, there's actually quite a bit of gear way back in there, but good luck bre... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Wholesome Fullback (5.10b)
By: The Blueprint Part Dank When: May 7, 2016

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Comments: You can't easily see the bolted anchor atop P1. It's located on a small pedestal up and left of the ledge at the base of the handcrack (the one prior to the p2 traverse)


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : No Fly Zone (5.10+ R)
By: The Blueprint Part Dank When: Apr 7, 2016

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Comments: Not a bad route objectively, but given the wealth of other options, anyone other than the most die-hard Ned-Head should look to the other classics available to climb.

Also, this route name makes me think of nothing other than the real #NOFLYZONE:

Rock Climbing Photo: #nfz.
#nfz.



Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Broken Rock : Crack Up (5.9+)
By: The Blueprint Part Dank When: Apr 7, 2016

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Comments: If you blindfolded me on the drive/approach, then put me on this climb, I would have told you that we were in Vedauwoo. I have big hands, so it felt like 5.9 but in the most physically burly way possible.

Easier than Black Crack though.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Last Call (5.9+)
By: The Blueprint Part Dank When: Apr 4, 2016

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Comments: I also found this to be noticeably more difficult than Dementia, some of the moves are fairly awkward. No move is harder than 5.9, but very few are any easier. Super sustained at the grade.... So call it 9+.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Broken Rock : Momentum Operator (5.11a)
By: The Blueprint Part Dank When: Nov 2, 2015

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Comments: How did I spend so much time at Castle Rock over the last couple of years without getting on this? A mystery to be sure, but this climb is just pure fun. A combination of varied crack technique with intricate, sequence-based footwork through an overhang, it's one of those sequences that seems like such a puzzle that it's hard to believe it wasn't created by a route-setter at the Spot.

Heads up, after the crux I got up into the chimney and set loose a swarm of weird bugs. A sunny winter day afte... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Box : Hand Crack (5.9)
By: The Blueprint Part Dank When: Sep 22, 2015

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Comments: There's an edge on the upper side of the wide crack. I spent too much time trying to use it as a hold, but it forced my right arm into an odd position that just crushed my tricep on the edge of the crack. I finally gave up on that hold and used traditional OW technique, still felt hard for 5.9, even by Vedauwoo sandbag standards.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Freebird (5.10-)
By: The Blueprint Part Dank When: Dec 1, 2014

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Comments: Super great route, little odd that they used a Skynyrd reference for a wall where everything else is named for a Pink Floyd song. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend this route to anyone looking to break into 5.10 leads at the Creek, with the caveat that the approach to the climb involves one of the most crumbly piles of sand and talus you'll ever find beneath an established route at IC


Location: Colorado : The 2014-2015 Colorado Ice ... : Post : Photo
By: The Blueprint Part Dank When: Nov 20, 2014

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Comments: That's gorgeous ice


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Hand Crack (aka White Light... (5.10a)
By: The Blueprint Part Dank When: Oct 5, 2014

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Comments: Super fun route, instant classic in my book. Very reminiscent of the style of climbing at the Tennessee Wall, where I cut my teeth years ago. I agree with I some of the other posts that this felt a bit soft for 10b, and the gear is excellent. So don't let the grade intimidate you away from this beauty.

"White Lightning" is a way more bad ass name for this IMHO.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Reynolds Hill : Finger Grinder (5.9)
By: The Blueprint Part Dank When: Sep 22, 2014

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Comments: I really felt like this was significantly harder than either Pooh's Corner or Climb and Punishment, both of those routes feel like accurate 5.9s to me, but Finger Grinder was significantly more difficult. Now, I think this is due to two factors, one, being that I have huge hands and fat fingers, so the finger locks were super tight for me, a couple were almost unusable. And two, the rock quality on the faces surrounding the crack was just utter garbage with lichen and loose, sharp crystals. A go... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Reynolds Hill : Pooh Corner (5.10b)
By: The Blueprint Part Dank When: Sep 3, 2014

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Comments: Lolz @ 5.9. It's a 10-, and I have huge nasty meat clams for hands. Smaller hands folks without a bit of true grit, have fun.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Reynolds Hill : Penis Dimension (5.10c)
By: The Blueprint Part Dank When: Sep 3, 2014

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Comments: Spoiler alert....

Are you still here?....


Are you sure?....


I warned you....

The inverted calf jam is the shit, crank super hard on the under-cling fist jam with your right hand, and then use your left to assist your foot into the right position if you aren't the most flexible person in the world (like me). Hook your left leg over the constriction and do a sit up. Choose your own adventure from there.


Location: CO : Crested Butte : Mt. Crested Butte : Guide's Ridge (5.3)
By: The Blueprint Part Dank When: Aug 7, 2014

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Comments: Soloed this on 8-6-2014. I was in Crested Butte with some family visiting from out of town, normally, I'd have balked at paying $20 for a lift ticket to shorten an approach; however, since my parents paid well, I wasn't going to argue.

From the top of the Silver Queen lift, immediately cut south into a thick patch of pine trees before exiting out onto the talus field. Compared to RMNP talus fields, I found this one to be a bit looser, and even some of the bigger, flat boulders shifted... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : Secret Garden : Photo
By: The Blueprint Part Dank When: Jul 27, 2014

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Comments: ^^^ I agree, when I see a lady using the bunched hair of a pony tail to aid in your average burly head jam, I truly do believe in love at first sight.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Second Buttress : Pine Tree Route (5.5)
By: The Blueprint Part Dank When: Jul 25, 2014

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Comments: Phenomenal 5.4. Probably the best first lead for anyone ever, or, as I like to do, mix it into your Boulder Canyon soloing circuit.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Upper Peanuts : Heavy Weather (5.9)
By: The Blueprint Part Dank When: Jul 21, 2014

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Comments: Whoa, what a hidden gem. The first two pitches challenge you in such an interesting variety of ways. Sequence intensive finger-cracks and slabs are the name of the game. On P2, when the crack "flip flops" you've got to pull just the most delicate and challenging 5.8 move I've ever done. It's definitely a 5.8 once you commit, but before you cast off to the left side of the slab, you're totally moving by faith and friction.

Then on pitch 3, a nice little Colorado hail storm came in. At first, I ... more >>


Location: General Climbing : Is MP the worst thing that ... : Post : Photo
By: The Blueprint Part Dank When: Jul 10, 2014

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Comments: Between setting NFL passing records and being blown out by the Seahawks, life can get pretty hectic for an elite NFL quarterback. Thankfully, the Mountain Project app keeps me in the loop. Oh hey, look, a lost gear thread!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock
By: The Blueprint Part Dank When: Jul 7, 2014

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Comments: Best damn crag in BoCan.


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