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Member Since: Jun 29, 2004
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
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Point Rank: # 2,249
Total Points: 360

27 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 496 | Routes | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos 72 | Page Improvements | Comments 62 | Posts 353 | Stars 4 | Ratings 5
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower Two > The Naked Edge (5.11b)
By: TBlom When: Aug 14, 2004

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Comments: Thanks for the suggestions, I will look up those routes and try to get to them.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower Two > The Naked Edge (5.11b)
By: TBlom When: Aug 13, 2004

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Comments: I am Jealous. I can't lead 11a trad. At least not safely or with confidence. I have attempted grandmothers challenge twice, sat after the pod twice, but cruised to the top after. I have onsighted most of the 10a pitches I have led in eldo though. My favorite was Yellow Spur. I got Grandmother's on TR when I wasn't placing gear or hauling two ropes(I'm trying for the 200ft pitch). I generally climb 11a sport in Boulder Canyon, and onsighted or got 2nd try a few 11a's at Animal World. I hav... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Bell Buttress Massif > Bell Buttress - Main Crag > Cosmosis (5.10a)
By: TBlom When: Aug 6, 2004

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Comments: I took a fall trying to place gear at the crux about 5 years ago (my first trad whip). After getting my head together I realized that if you make 1 or two more moves past the crux, a good dropknee/stem can be found with your left foot on the jug you just passed, which lets you place gear pretty easily. It's nice to know that you can get in gear at the crux, but if 5.9 is your trad limit, it will be very pumpy to place gear there. The piece I fell on was a #3 Black Diamond nut, it held about a... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Avalon
By: TBlom When: Jul 22, 2004

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Comments: Bruce Pech and I replaced the rotting tyrolean traverse at Avalon last week. The new version is very simple, two strands cross the creek, both strands are tied with figure eight knots at both ends to two separate bolts on each side (four total). The two lines are kept together by an overhand knot on the road side, this side has very little extra rope involved. The other side of the creek (cliff side)has more rope involved,in a series of fisherman's knots. As this line is used and abused, lef... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Upper Dream Canyon > Dream Dome > Wrinkles in Time (5.9-)
By: TBlom When: Jul 15, 2004

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Comments: Anyone know about the route immediately left of Wrinkles, it doesn't seem to match Rossiter's guide, though the next route left seems to. Really slabby, with a steep start out of the gully. Maybe 11a, 10d. lots of nice bolts. Need a 60m rope to get back to the ground (just right).


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Upper Dream Canyon > Oceanic Wall > Shiek Yer Bouti (5.11d)
By: TBlom When: Jul 15, 2004

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Comments: I guess a few extra placements would be nice, although I felt safe without. The whipper is pretty clean if you don't get the clip before the crux. Great route to log some air time on. Has an old school feel to it, not over bolted.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Upper Dream Canyon > Oceanic Wall > Shiek Yer Bouti (5.11d)
By: TBlom When: Jul 12, 2004

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Comments: I haven't redpointed this route yet, and no one agrees on ratings so lets just say it feels hard. The first crux at the first bolt doesn't seem so hard, kind of bouldery. Clipping at the upper crux is kind of tough but there is a good lay back hold out right. Big wipper if you screw up, this is not a Sport Park job. There is a bolt before the 5.10 at the top, not too bad but weird climbing. hopefully I'll figure out how to redpoint this thing. I've only succesfully led 11d once (at Sport Par... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... > Grandmother's Challenge (5.10c)
By: TBlom When: Jun 29, 2004

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Comments: I love this climb because it's the right size for me. This is where I get back at my buddies who lead thin cracks. I watch them struggle with way too many feet of 4"+ jamming.This is the climb for the 200 pounder! I'm surprised more people don't go to the tree in one pitch, or at least over the roof before starting the next pitch. I have attempted this route twice, I'm hoping #3 is the charm. I have wondered if the crux would be easier if the 2nd pitch started right below the crux, yet it se... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > The Bastille > The Bastille - N Face > The Bastille Crack (5.7)
By: TBlom When: Jun 29, 2004

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Comments: Let's remember that at one point in time, there was no such thing as a 5.11. This used to be a .6 out of a possible .10. It now gets a 5.7 rating because we all love Eldorado and it's own personal stiff rating system. Sure I'll lead .11d at sport park. But I'm still shut down above .10a at Eldo. That's just the way the cookie crumbles. We are using the "Yosemite decimal system". Try leading the first pitch of "After Six" in Yosemite Valley. This pitch used to be considered 5.6, and it n... more >>


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Do you get intoxicated before climbing?General ClimbingTBlomJan 12, 2018
re: Post unpopular opinions hereGeneral ClimbingTBlomJan 10, 2018
re: Post unpopular opinions hereGeneral ClimbingTBlomJan 9, 2018
re: Post unpopular opinions hereGeneral ClimbingTBlomJan 8, 2018
re: Post unpopular opinions hereGeneral ClimbingTBlomJan 7, 2018
re: What does your Woody look like???General ClimbingTBlomDec 28, 2017
re: What does your Woody look like???General ClimbingTBlomDec 28, 2017
re: What's your story? How did you get introdcuced to climbing? General ClimbingTBlomDec 22, 2017
re: When was the last time you bailed?General ClimbingTBlomDec 11, 2017
re: Is my new hangboard design structurally sound (Rock Prodigy Forge)?General ClimbingTBlomDec 10, 2017
re: Access Fund Will Sue Federal Government to Defend Bears Ears National MonumentGeneral ClimbingTBlomDec 8, 2017
re: Bad behavior in the Owens River GorgeGeneral ClimbingTBlomNov 30, 2017
re: Favorite phrases or slangGeneral ClimbingTBlomNov 19, 2017
re: Most dangerous newbie situation you've seenGeneral ClimbingTBlomNov 17, 2017
re: Passive-Only Trad AnchorTrad ClimbingTBlomNov 14, 2017
re: Passive-Only Trad AnchorTrad ClimbingTBlomNov 13, 2017
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