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Member Since: Jan 7, 2004
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 323
Total Points: 2,190

76 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 2274 | Routes 61 | Areas 7 | Approach Trails | Photos 295 | Page Improvements | Comments 671 | Posts 854 | Stars 382 | Ratings 4
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : The Diamond Area : ... : A National Acrobat (5.12-)
By: tenesmus When: Sep 28, 2017

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Comments: This belongs in a guidebook: "a short but devastatingly granite crux".


Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : The Diamond Area : ... : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Sep 28, 2017

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Comments: That's a slick system. What is the sleeve made of? Must be tethered to a pin or something?


Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : The Diamond Area : ... : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Sep 28, 2017

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Comments: That rail! Great shot of a cool feature.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : The Riverside : ... : Unknown (V2-3)
By: tenesmus When: Sep 21, 2017

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Comments: Thanks for cleaning this up!

I'm pretty sure it was some H.S. kids trying to find a place to drink where the cops wouldn't find them. There is also an old fire pit just uphill and across the trail where they sometimes congregate. At least they didn't spray paint everywhere...


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coal Pit Buttress : House of Cards (5.11 PG13) : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Sep 11, 2017

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Comments: Any chance these are safe to knock off, or would it land on your rap stations?


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Moss Ledges : Salmonella (5.9+) : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Sep 8, 2017

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Comments: No offense to the first ascentionists but this looks like a piece of crap line. It had better climb way better than it looks.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Moss Ledges : Salmonella (5.9+) : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Sep 8, 2017

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Comments: LOL, You're totally right! What a doofus...


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Moss Ledges : Hibatchi Time (5.9+)
By: tenesmus When: Sep 5, 2017

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Comments: I added a clarification topo to try and help make it clear. The best way to finish is the crack that traverses under the face.

This was the first new route I ever had anything to do with and found the experience to be super fun. I'm sure I wouldn't have bolted that face now but at the time, I was just excited about the whole process. If you want to make the face climbing easy, stay out left of the bolts. If you want it to be 11-, contrive yourself into staying directly in the bolt line... more >>


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Moss Ledges : Salmonella (5.9+)
By: tenesmus When: Sep 5, 2017

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Comments: You guys are hilarous. I posted a clarification topo to try and make it easier. Obviously, this is a chossy area so when you "Pick a Crack", you can make it easy or hard. No one cares either way, just know that if you go very low, you may knock off some blocks. The good thing is that if you do knock off a block or two, you'll be way out of the way of the belayer. Just don't do that kind of thing when someone is on Weinie Roast or Burning Embers.

I love that these faces have so... more >>


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coalpit Gulch : Waterfall Wall : Kidsmoke (5.12c)
By: tenesmus When: Aug 27, 2017

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Comments: This route is definitely in line with bouldering in the canyon. The granite is similar to a mix of the Hidden Forest and the Far Side. If you like the body tension, slopers, pinches and dynos over there, this route is for you.

The wall is almost always shady so it might be better to work on a dry cool summer morning or anytime in the late spring through fall.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Hoss Garden : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Aug 27, 2017

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Comments: Trail builders out there: We'd love some input on how to best tackle this approach.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Gully of Higher Education A... : Higher Education Ridge, Wes... : Grading on a Curve (5.11a/b)
By: tenesmus When: Aug 21, 2017

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Comments: The grading curve depends greatly on your ability to read BCC rock.
Sooo many holds but you have to figure out which ones are trick questions and which ones are crimp-jugs. I vote for no tick marks to keep the grade honest.

This is a 3-star climb. Don't blow the bonus question crux at the end. Your belayer won't be able to see you but will definitely need to keep slack to a minimum as you go for the finish. Its safe so plan out a soft catch but small belay loop to ease the anxiety of t... more >>


Location: Utah : Uinta Mountains : Hayden Peak : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Aug 8, 2017

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Comments: pfft. There is totally a cam placement right there that you should have used...


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area : Pentapass (5.7) : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Jul 20, 2017

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Comments: I'm just imagining all the cleaning it took. Check out all the dirt at the bottom.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Hoss Garden : Keep it Heavy (5.12c)
By: tenesmus When: Jul 10, 2017

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Comments: This is my favorite line at this cliff. Its easy to place gear and work. Its a lot like Heisenberg/White Lines in that the steep crack is just a jug rail. Also like Heisenberg/White Lines in that the top half has highly varied, fun movement requiring both power and finesse.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Hoss Garden : Right Hook (5.10)
By: tenesmus When: Jul 9, 2017

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Comments: Bonus knee bar for short people to get to the first bolt.

Getting to the second bolt requires a lot of patience to keep at 10-. If you don't think you have the jug, take your time to "take" and suss it out.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Hoss Garden : First Night at Fight Club (5.12-)
By: tenesmus When: Jul 9, 2017

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Comments: A bird moved into the pod below the crux this year. We're pretty sure its gone now but if you go up there, bring a brush. This is a fun trad line that makes you work through the sizes where its steep.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Hoss Garden : Left Hook (5.10+)
By: tenesmus When: Jul 9, 2017

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Comments: The variations on this one are super fun. Lots of holds all over the place but make sure you know where you're going. Its really fun to clip the second or third to last bolt then cruise right over the top couple of bolts of Upper Cut.

The left finish of this helps you stay on crimpers as you warm up for the .12's to the left. We often lead the tens, lower to the mid-point and TR back up with variations as we warm up. (Watch your swing because this gets engaging!)


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Hoss Garden : Upper Cut (5.10-)
By: tenesmus When: Jul 9, 2017

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Comments: This climb has the inherent characteristics of BCC: Some fantastic rock broken by an unfortunate ledge. This makes belaying somewhat funky.

You kind of need to start downhill of the first bolt but then you can't see the climber on the upper face. One way to alleviate this has been to have the leader clip the second bolt using a long draw with a locker on the rope, then unclip the first bolt. That allows the belayer to walk uphill and belay nearer the staging area, where you can se... more >>


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Hoss Garden : Right Hook (5.10) : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Jul 9, 2017

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Comments: Just in case you can't read the text on the topo:
This climb starts on the lower set of bolts encountered on the ramp connecting the main staging area to the base of IDNSPR.
You can't see the second bolt until you clip the first and its up and left. Short people can start with a knee bar and all sizes need to find the hidden jugs to make it stay .10-.
There is a small section of .4 to get to the upper face that doesn't have a bolt. Climb farther right than you think as you approach... more >>


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : East Hellgate : ... : A Cloud In The Sky (5.10a)
By: tenesmus When: Jun 8, 2017

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Comments: That struck a nerve... Tell you what, if you ever want to go back up there I'll belay you. And come back the next day for your bail biner.

bwa ha haaa!

This guy is probably a nice guy in real life but the irony of that username just kills me! If you're worthy of naming yourself "lccclimber" you should be more than prepared for HelmutGate. This alone makes deserve every stitch of grief you're getting - and then some! [/frenchie+zosobeatdown=interwebslife... more >>


Location: Utah : The Henry Mountains : Black Table : Thing 9 (5.11b)
By: tenesmus When: May 2, 2017

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Comments: This might be the coolest 5.11 edge climbing I've ever done. Wear your edging shoes. Check that - wear your comfortable edging shoes because you'll be on your feet for most of this. The climbing in the corner is crazy fun. Link it all in one long one pitch for the full effect.

Oh, and I thought Kent said it was .11c? But if you're a 90's hardman, there is little difference between .10+ and .11+.


Location: Utah : The Henry Mountains : Black Table : Main Corner (5.10c)
By: tenesmus When: May 2, 2017

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Comments: They might hold. I was told this is the warmup. Be ready for early 90's Hardman climbing above the actual 90's pins. After that, amazingly varied crack climbing through a variety of sizes in a chimney and out into the void above. Move around. Keep your eyes open if you want it to stay .10.

Really fun route.


Location: pseudalpine : GCNP : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Apr 18, 2017

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Comments: You gotta wonder what those North Rim water falls are doing mid winter. Seems like there could be a life time of wandering around looking for ice down there.


Location: Arizona : Northern Arizona : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Apr 18, 2017

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Comments: Never seen it from this side of the river. Great shot!


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