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Member Since: Jan 7, 2004
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact tenesmus

Point Rank: # 589
Total Points: 1,180

72 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has tenesmus been climbing?










Contributions


All 2213 | Routes 54 | Areas 6 | Photos 281 | Page Improvements | Comments 656 | Posts 838 | Stars 374 | Ratings 4
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Utah : The Henry Mountains : Black Table : Thing 9 (5.11b)
By: tenesmus When: May 2, 2017

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Comments: This might be the coolest 5.11 edge climbing I've ever done. Wear your edging shoes. Check that - wear your comfortable edging shoes because you'll be on your feet for most of this. The climbing in the corner is crazy fun. Link it all in one long one pitch for the full effect.

Oh, and I thought Kent said it was .11c? But if you're a 90's hardman, there is little difference between .10+ and .11+.


Location: Utah : The Henry Mountains : Black Table : Main Corner (5.10c)
By: tenesmus When: May 2, 2017

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Comments: They might hold. I was told this is the warmup. Be ready for early 90's Hardman climbing above the actual 90's pins. After that, amazingly varied crack climbing through a variety of sizes in a chimney and out into the void above. Move around. Keep your eyes open if you want it to stay .10.

Really fun route.


Location: pseudalpine : GCNP : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Apr 18, 2017

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Comments: You gotta wonder what those North Rim water falls are doing mid winter. Seems like there could be a life time of wandering around looking for ice down there.


Location: Arizona : Northern Arizona : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Apr 18, 2017

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Comments: Never seen it from this side of the river. Great shot!


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Westwind Buttress : Sacrifice (5.10d)
By: tenesmus When: Apr 15, 2017

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Comments: Its amazing how much more fun a climb is when its clean! We knocked out the brush and mud and grit, making this one of the cleanest finger cracks in LCC.
If you go up there, be sure to bring a wire brush and a painter's brush to scrub and clean again.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Westwind Buttress : True Grit (Var.) (5.8)
By: tenesmus When: Apr 15, 2017

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Comments: Did this today and really liked it. If it got done more, it would clean up to a pretty good crack. Especially if someone gave it some hammer and wire brush loving it would make a huge difference. Loads and loads of hand jams and gear all over the place. Also, I must be getting old because it felt like old school 5.8. As in, some of the moves are as difficult as the crux of Satan's.


Location: Arizona : Northern Arizona : GCNP : Panchos Kitchen : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Mar 26, 2017

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Comments: I love this place! Its where I learned to get fully stoked about climbing.


Location: Utah : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Moore Cutoff Road
By: tenesmus When: Mar 18, 2017

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Comments: You must have gone out to see the pictographs at Short Canyon. Love all this stuff out there.

The obvious stuff right off the cutoff road is kind of fun. There must be 5 miles of house sized boulders. Not all of them have easy ways down and lots of them need a bit of cleaning. If someone wanted to boulder out there, you'd need to bring a few ladders to clean a little chunder.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : The Wave of Mutilation (5.10+ R)
By: tenesmus When: Nov 6, 2016

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Comments: 5.10a slab climbers should not be deterred by the 10+ rating. No doubt the first crux could be stopper. HOWEVER, it is relatively easy to fall then tension past this move. Especially if you have a stiff draw in hand.

Just be sure to do some pure friction climbing like Kermit's Wad, The Final Link, etc and this will feel way more comfortable for you. The money pitches offer super fun exposure and are totally worth the effort. Hats off to the F. Ascentionists.

The ap... more >>


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : The Wave of Mutilation (5.10+ R) : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Nov 6, 2016

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Comments: There is gear in a cleaned out crack just under these. Solid small cams. And its fun to sling the chickenheads. Just because.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Psychobabble Wall : Psychobabble (5.10c)
By: tenesmus When: Oct 14, 2016

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Comments: That is a bummer. I've always used offset HB's for this. The smaller aluminum one locks in tight right before the traverse and you can place it from the wrist-lock/hand jam. You can also place something a little higher but its a bit harder to finagle. Offsets seem to lock in best on this pitch in general.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Oct 5, 2016

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Comments: That's what I was thinking. Complex. Huge. Broken.
Choss = climbing holds.


Location: Utah : Big Water Boulders : Roadside Boulders : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Oct 5, 2016

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Comments: This looks super cool!


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Oct 5, 2016

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Comments: Wait. What?
You made me get my book out and I think I know where it is... but I don't.


Location: Utah : West Desert : Ibex : South Corridor : Holey Moley Wall : ... : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Oct 5, 2016

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Comments: +1. Great shot Dave. Looks like a fun line!


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coalpit Gulch : Waterfall Wall : The 40th Loss (5.10c)
By: tenesmus When: Sep 24, 2016

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Comments: This has a cool crux move that forces you to get after it on the OS burn. It's all there and you'll shake your head in shame if you don't at go for it! (read: ...and have to take like I did) Super safe bolting so go for it.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Booty Wall Area : ... : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Sep 12, 2016

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Comments: Note that we added an anchor on that ledge so you can bring up a belayer and work it with less rope stretch.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Booty Wall Area : Straight to Rehab (5.12a)
By: tenesmus When: Sep 12, 2016

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Comments: We were thinking that maybe it would be nice to stick clip the second bolt but didn't need it. If you need the second clipped to work the problem, just go in direct to the first bolt and unless you're an 11 year-old (ie, "fun-sized"; ie, "petite"; ie, "have no reason to live"), you should be able to reach up and pre-clip.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Tacos Diablos Boulder : Astroclay Verde (5.11d)
By: tenesmus When: Sep 8, 2016

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Comments: Originally had a different name but I was outvoted. FA by Casey Hyer, Clay Watson and Mike Perkins and in no particular order.

You can finish via the rail traverse or by mantling over the top if you get freaked out by the sharpness. Its already way less snaggy than it was, but might be a good idea to drag a hammer or a rock along the lip and on the face behind the lip again.

It would be cool (mid-12.??) climbing to traverse right at the second or third bolt and into Tacos. That face is alre... more >>


Location: Idaho : Central Idaho : The Fins : The Discovery Wall : Martini Sector : EBR-1 (5.11a)
By: tenesmus When: Aug 22, 2016

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Comments: The first move feels kind of weird until you bump your feet up. We watched a ton of people suss this and as soon as they did the first foot move they hiked the rest. Great intro to the Fins.


Location: Idaho : Central Idaho : The Fins : The Discovery Wall : Martini Sector : Dinner Roll (5.12c)
By: tenesmus When: Aug 22, 2016

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Comments: I'm not always a .12c climber. (most of the time I'm not) But if you're a 5.11 climber, the pockets on after the 4th bolt are super fun. Worth pulling through the first few bolts if you get stumped.
Yep.
That good.


Location: Idaho : Central Idaho : The Fins : The Discovery Wall : Martini Sector : Martini (5.12a)
By: tenesmus When: Aug 22, 2016

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Comments: This is super fun! And don't forget to look for the no-hands rest a couple of bolts before the crux.


Location: Utah : Uinta Mountains : Ruth Lake : Warrior Wall : Warrior Without a Cause (5.12b) : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Aug 1, 2016

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Comments: I'm betting the rock didn't get good till up there. If that lower blocky stuff at his waist went...


Location: Utah : Uinta Mountains : Hayden Peak : Iron Hayden Wall : Run To The Hills (5.11b) : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Jul 6, 2016

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Comments: This rock looks amazing!


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : Clay, Like Dirt (5.9)
By: tenesmus When: Jun 14, 2016

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Comments: I tried to name it something else but Drew over-ruled me.
Fun climbing in that you have huge holds for your hands and smeary feat. Kind of like a .9 version of Multiplicity.


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