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Member Since: Jan 7, 2004
Last Visit: 4 days ago
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Point Rank: # 529
Total Points: 1,320

74 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 2255 | Routes 61 | Areas 7 | Photos 292 | Page Improvements | Comments 664 | Posts 846 | Stars 381 | Ratings 4
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area : Pentapass (5.7) : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Jul 20, 2017

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Comments: I'm just imagining all the cleaning it took. Check out all the dirt at the bottom.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Hoss Garden : Keep it Heavy (5.12c)
By: tenesmus When: Jul 10, 2017

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Comments: This is my favorite line at this cliff. Its easy to place gear and work. Its a lot like Heisenberg/White Lines in that the steep crack is just a jug rail. Also like Heisenberg/White Lines in that the top half has highly varied, fun movement requiring both power and finesse.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Hoss Garden : Right Hook (5.10)
By: tenesmus When: Jul 9, 2017

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Comments: Bonus knee bar for short people to get to the first bolt.

Getting to the second bolt requires a lot of patience to keep at 10-. If you don't think you have the jug, take your time to "take" and suss it out.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Hoss Garden : First Night at Fight Club (5.12-)
By: tenesmus When: Jul 9, 2017

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Comments: A bird moved into the pod below the crux this year. We're pretty sure its gone now but if you go up there, bring a brush. This is a fun trad line that makes you work through the sizes where its steep.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Hoss Garden : Left Hook (5.10+)
By: tenesmus When: Jul 9, 2017

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Comments: The variations on this one are super fun. Lots of holds all over the place but make sure you know where you're going. Its really fun to clip the second or third to last bolt then cruise right over the top couple of bolts of Upper Cut.

The left finish of this helps you stay on crimpers as you warm up for the .12's to the left. We often lead the tens, lower to the mid-point and TR back up with variations as we warm up. (Watch your swing because this gets engaging!)


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Hoss Garden : Upper Cut (5.10-)
By: tenesmus When: Jul 9, 2017

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Comments: This climb has the inherent characteristics of BCC: Some fantastic rock broken by an unfortunate ledge. This makes belaying somewhat funky.

You kind of need to start downhill of the first bolt but then you can't see the climber on the upper face. One way to alleviate this has been to have the leader clip the second bolt using a long draw with a locker on the rope, then unclip the first bolt. That allows the belayer to walk uphill and belay nearer the staging area, where you can se... more >>


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Hoss Garden : Right Hook (5.10) : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Jul 9, 2017

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Comments: Just in case you can't read the text on the topo:
This climb starts on the lower set of bolts encountered on the ramp connecting the main staging area to the base of IDNSPR.
You can't see the second bolt until you clip the first and its up and left. Short people can start with a knee bar and all sizes need to find the hidden jugs to make it stay .10-.
There is a small section of .4 to get to the upper face that doesn't have a bolt. Climb farther right than you think as you approach... more >>


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : East Hellgate : ... : A Cloud In The Sky (5.10a)
By: tenesmus When: Jun 8, 2017

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Comments: That struck a nerve... Tell you what, if you ever want to go back up there I'll belay you. And come back the next day for your bail biner.

bwa ha haaa!

This guy is probably a nice guy in real life but the irony of that username just kills me! If you're worthy of naming yourself "lccclimber" you should be more than prepared for HelmutGate. This alone makes deserve every stitch of grief you're getting - and then some! [/frenchie+zosobeatdown=interwebslife... more >>


Location: Utah : The Henry Mountains : Black Table : Thing 9 (5.11b)
By: tenesmus When: May 2, 2017

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Comments: This might be the coolest 5.11 edge climbing I've ever done. Wear your edging shoes. Check that - wear your comfortable edging shoes because you'll be on your feet for most of this. The climbing in the corner is crazy fun. Link it all in one long one pitch for the full effect.

Oh, and I thought Kent said it was .11c? But if you're a 90's hardman, there is little difference between .10+ and .11+.


Location: Utah : The Henry Mountains : Black Table : Main Corner (5.10c)
By: tenesmus When: May 2, 2017

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Comments: They might hold. I was told this is the warmup. Be ready for early 90's Hardman climbing above the actual 90's pins. After that, amazingly varied crack climbing through a variety of sizes in a chimney and out into the void above. Move around. Keep your eyes open if you want it to stay .10.

Really fun route.


Location: pseudalpine : GCNP : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Apr 18, 2017

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Comments: You gotta wonder what those North Rim water falls are doing mid winter. Seems like there could be a life time of wandering around looking for ice down there.


Location: Arizona : Northern Arizona : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Apr 18, 2017

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Comments: Never seen it from this side of the river. Great shot!


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Westwind Buttress : Sacrifice (5.10d)
By: tenesmus When: Apr 15, 2017

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Comments: Its amazing how much more fun a climb is when its clean! We knocked out the brush and mud and grit, making this one of the cleanest finger cracks in LCC.
If you go up there, be sure to bring a wire brush and a painter's brush to scrub and clean again.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Westwind Buttress : True Grit (Var.) (5.8)
By: tenesmus When: Apr 15, 2017

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Comments: Did this today and really liked it. If it got done more, it would clean up to a pretty good crack. Especially if someone gave it some hammer and wire brush loving it would make a huge difference. Loads and loads of hand jams and gear all over the place. Also, I must be getting old because it felt like old school 5.8. As in, some of the moves are as difficult as the crux of Satan's.


Location: Arizona : Northern Arizona : GCNP : Panchos Kitchen : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Mar 26, 2017

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Comments: I love this place! Its where I learned to get fully stoked about climbing.


Location: Utah : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Moore Cutoff Road
By: tenesmus When: Mar 18, 2017

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Comments: You must have gone out to see the pictographs at Short Canyon. Love all this stuff out there.

The obvious stuff right off the cutoff road is kind of fun. There must be 5 miles of house sized boulders. Not all of them have easy ways down and lots of them need a bit of cleaning. If someone wanted to boulder out there, you'd need to bring a few ladders to clean a little chunder.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : The Wave of Mutilation (5.10+ R)
By: tenesmus When: Nov 6, 2016

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Comments: 5.10a slab climbers should not be deterred by the 10+ rating. No doubt the first crux could be stopper. HOWEVER, it is relatively easy to fall then tension past this move. Especially if you have a stiff draw in hand.

Just be sure to do some pure friction climbing like Kermit's Wad, The Final Link, etc and this will feel way more comfortable for you. The money pitches offer super fun exposure and are totally worth the effort. Hats off to the F. Ascentionists.

The ap... more >>


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : The Wave of Mutilation (5.10+ R) : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Nov 6, 2016

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Comments: There is gear in a cleaned out crack just under these. Solid small cams. And its fun to sling the chickenheads. Just because.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Psychobabble Wall : Psychobabble (5.10c)
By: tenesmus When: Oct 14, 2016

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Comments: That is a bummer. I've always used offset HB's for this. The smaller aluminum one locks in tight right before the traverse and you can place it from the wrist-lock/hand jam. You can also place something a little higher but its a bit harder to finagle. Offsets seem to lock in best on this pitch in general.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Oct 5, 2016

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Comments: That's what I was thinking. Complex. Huge. Broken.
Choss = climbing holds.


Location: Utah : Big Water Boulders : Roadside Boulders : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Oct 5, 2016

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Comments: This looks super cool!


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Oct 5, 2016

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Comments: Wait. What?
You made me get my book out and I think I know where it is... but I don't.


Location: Utah : West Desert : Ibex : South Corridor : Holey Moley Wall : ... : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Oct 5, 2016

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Comments: +1. Great shot Dave. Looks like a fun line!


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coalpit Gulch : Waterfall Wall : The 40th Loss (5.10c)
By: tenesmus When: Sep 24, 2016

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Comments: This has a cool crux move that forces you to get after it on the OS burn. It's all there and you'll shake your head in shame if you don't at go for it! (read: ...and have to take like I did) Super safe bolting so go for it.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Booty Wall Area : ... : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Sep 12, 2016

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Comments: Note that we added an anchor on that ledge so you can bring up a belayer and work it with less rope stretch.


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