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Member Since: Jan 7, 2004
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact tenesmus

Point Rank: # 242
Total Points: 2,663
Last Year: 66
Last 30 Days: 2
72 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has tenesmus been climbing?










Contributions


All 2191 | Routes 53 | Areas 6 | Photos 279 | Page Improvements | Comments 648 | Posts 831 | Stars 370 | Ratings 4
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : The Wave of Mutilation (5.10+ R)
By: tenesmus When: Nov 6, 2016

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Comments: 5.10a slab climbers should not be deterred by the 10+ rating. No doubt the first crux could be stopper. HOWEVER, it is relatively easy to fall then tension past this move. Especially if you have a stiff draw in hand.

Just be sure to do some pure friction climbing like Kermit's Wad, The Final Link, etc and this will feel way more comfortable for you. The money pitches offer super fun exposure and are totally worth the effort. Hats off to the F. Ascentionists.

The ap... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : The Wave of Mutilation (5.10+ R) : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Nov 6, 2016

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Comments: There is gear in a cleaned out crack just under these. Solid small cams. And its fun to sling the chickenheads. Just because.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Psychobabble Wall : Psychobabble (5.10c)
By: tenesmus When: Oct 14, 2016

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Comments: That is a bummer. I've always used offset HB's for this. The smaller aluminum one locks in tight right before the traverse and you can place it from the wrist-lock/hand jam. You can also place something a little higher but its a bit harder to finagle. Offsets seem to lock in best on this pitch in general.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Oct 5, 2016

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Comments: That's what I was thinking. Complex. Huge. Broken.
Choss = climbing holds.


Location: UT : NP230 : Big Nipple : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Oct 5, 2016

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Comments: This looks super cool!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Oct 5, 2016

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Comments: Wait. What?
You made me get my book out and I think I know where it is... but I don't.


Location: UT : Ibex : South Corridor : Holey Moley Wall : Ride the Wave (5.11) : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Oct 5, 2016

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Comments: +1. Great shot Dave. Looks like a fun line!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coalpit Gulch : Waterfall Wall : The 40th Loss (5.10c)
By: tenesmus When: Sep 24, 2016

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Comments: This has a cool crux move that forces you to get after it on the OS burn. It's all there and you'll shake your head in shame if you don't at go for it! (read: ...and have to take like I did) Super safe bolting so go for it.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Booty Wall Area : ... : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Sep 12, 2016

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Comments: Note that we added an anchor on that ledge so you can bring up a belayer and work it with less rope stretch.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Booty Wall Area : Straight to Rehab (5.12a)
By: tenesmus When: Sep 12, 2016

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Comments: We were thinking that maybe it would be nice to stick clip the second bolt but didn't need it. If you need the second clipped to work the problem, just go in direct to the first bolt and unless you're an 11 year-old (ie, "fun-sized"; ie, "petite"; ie, "have no reason to live"), you should be able to reach up and pre-clip.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Tacos Diablos Boulder : Astroclay Verde (5.11d)
By: tenesmus When: Sep 8, 2016

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Comments: Originally had a different name but I was outvoted. FA by Casey Hyer, Clay Watson and Mike Perkins and in no particular order.

You can finish via the rail traverse or by mantling over the top if you get freaked out by the sharpness. Its already way less snaggy than it was, but might be a good idea to drag a hammer or a rock along the lip and on the face behind the lip again.

It would be cool (mid-12.??) climbing to traverse right at the second or third bolt and into Tacos. That face is alre... more >>


Location: ID : The Fins : The Discovery Wall : Martini Sector : EBR-1 (5.11a)
By: tenesmus When: Aug 22, 2016

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Comments: The first move feels kind of weird until you bump your feet up. We watched a ton of people suss this and as soon as they did the first foot move they hiked the rest. Great intro to the Fins.


Location: ID : The Fins : The Discovery Wall : Martini Sector : Dinner Roll (5.12c)
By: tenesmus When: Aug 22, 2016

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Comments: I'm not always a .12c climber. (most of the time I'm not) But if you're a 5.11 climber, the pockets on after the 4th bolt are super fun. Worth pulling through the first few bolts if you get stumped.
Yep.
That good.


Location: ID : The Fins : The Discovery Wall : Martini Sector : Martini (5.12a)
By: tenesmus When: Aug 22, 2016

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Comments: This is super fun! And don't forget to look for the no-hands rest a couple of bolts before the crux.


Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Ruth Lake : Warrior Wall : Warrior Without a Cause (5.12b) : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Aug 1, 2016

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Comments: I'm betting the rock didn't get good till up there. If that lower blocky stuff at his waist went...


Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Hayden Peak : Iron Hayden Wall : Run To The Hills (5.11b) : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Jul 6, 2016

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Comments: This rock looks amazing!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : Clay, Like Dirt (5.9)
By: tenesmus When: Jun 14, 2016

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Comments: I tried to name it something else but Drew over-ruled me.
Fun climbing in that you have huge holds for your hands and smeary feat. Kind of like a .9 version of Multiplicity.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : The Ripping Wall (5.10d)
By: tenesmus When: Jun 14, 2016

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Comments: The second pitch links improbable features.
The third pitch has uncommonly good edges that sweep you up and left into the crux.
The wind rips and tears around you as you top out near the highpoint of the formation.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : Sidekick (5.8 PG13)
By: tenesmus When: Jun 14, 2016

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Comments: This might be the quickest and easiest way to the top of the Flakes.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Trinity Right (5.12a)
By: tenesmus When: Jun 8, 2016

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Comments: We usually take turns leading for the first few laps and have the last person clean through.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Gully of Higher Education : Tuition Hike (5.12a)
By: tenesmus When: May 11, 2016

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Comments: This is a lot of fun. Climbs like a nice v4 + a redpoint crux. Great warmup for The Professor.


Location: UT : Saint George : Beaver Dam Road : Beaver Dam Wall
By: tenesmus When: Nov 30, 2015

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Comments: OR, its just a rumor to keep the crowds away...
Maybe its a blue-streaked, 4-pitch mecca of tufas and pockets? Maybe its the Utah Hills version of Verdon?
Go find out for us.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : The Arizona Strip : Lime Kiln Canyon : The Grail : Merely a Flesh Wound (5.10c)
By: tenesmus When: Nov 16, 2015

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Comments: Blocky fun. When you're trying to find this one, look for a distinctive mini-column 50-60' up.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : The Arizona Strip : Lime Kiln Canyon : The Grail : Last Supper (5.11a/b)
By: tenesmus When: Nov 16, 2015

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Comments: Super fun movement. Work the feet so you can link the big holds.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : The Arizona Strip : Lime Kiln Canyon : The Back Walls : Freezerburn (5.11b)
By: tenesmus When: Nov 16, 2015

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Comments: Don't be myopic about staying in the bolt line. Follow your gut and wander around a bit.


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