REI Community


Member Since: Mar 12, 2016
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Taylor Gemperline

Point Rank: # 7,277
Total Points: 73

3 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Taylor Gemperline been climbing?










Taylor Gemperline

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 365 | Routes | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos 14 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 29 | Posts | Stars 167 | Ratings 154
Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: Illinois > Pere Marquette State Park > I: Meadow Slab > Meadow's (5.7)
By: Taylor Gemperline When: Nov 8, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: 4's and 5's make the protection a bit more comfortable.


Location: Illinois > Pere Marquette State Park > E: Ryan's Balcony > Vista (5.10c)
By: Taylor Gemperline When: Oct 14, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: A fall above the third bolt can cause you to swing into the jutting out rock face just below the first bolt. I gave it a PG-13 because my face almost hit it twice. It can be safely climbed but you have to be very conscious about how you will fall.


Location: Illinois > Pere Marquette State Park > B: Lucky Strike Pillar > Catfish & Bottlenecks (5.10a)
By: Taylor Gemperline When: Sep 9, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Favorite 5.10a on the wall IMHO. Clean. Fun movement. Fun features. Steep sections. Slab sections. It has a lot for a little wall! Highly suggest.


Location: Illinois > Pere Marquette State Park > A: Lily Wall > State Sponsored (5.10c)
By: Taylor Gemperline When: Sep 9, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: After you clip the bolt in the dihedral and pull right you join the 5.8 bolt line and then up to the chains its .10c. However, I clipped the last bolt and then worked again left, keeping off the left facing dihedral to your right. Going straight up the face between the dihedral bolt and the chains felt like a solid mid-eleven. It was really fun to go for that last bit though! Just watch out for a fall into the tree.


Location: Illinois > Pere Marquette State Park > B: Lucky Strike Pillar > Piasa Pusher (5.10b)
By: Taylor Gemperline When: Aug 25, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Someone with a short ape index will find it spicy. I actually enjoy climbing left of the first 2 bolts straight up the arete much more fun and a little more challenging.


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Ogden > Ogden Canyon > The Ice Wall > Blues from a Gun (5.10b)
By: Taylor Gemperline When: Jul 25, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: This was a sketchy lead. A few places where a fall could be traumatic. Also, THERE ARE NO LONGER CHAINS AT THE TOP, just two hangers (and one of them looked suspect. You can clean the route and walk to the chains on the climbers left, but kinda an additional sketch factor.


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Ogden > Ogden Canyon > The Ice Wall > Carpal Tunnel Syndrome (5.10c)
By: Taylor Gemperline When: Jul 25, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: If you are a climber with a small ape index like myself this can be a very dangerous route. Clipping the second bolt is just out of reach (we are talking maybe an inch for me) with no other options for clipping stances. Needless to say I took a fall with my hands on the ledge and came inches from the ground.


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Logan > Wall of Colors > Shades of Gray (5.9+)
By: Taylor Gemperline When: Jul 20, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: The first pitch starts in the "slot" from the ground. I had been confused by what the "slot" was. If you look up from the ground you will see some white chains at the top of a V groove. Those are the first chains for Brown Noser. The beginning of Shades of Grey is the slab on the left of the V. The bolts are black and VERY hard to see.


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Logan > Wall of Colors > Dreamsicle (5.10b)
By: Taylor Gemperline When: Jul 20, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Loved this route! The 10b top pitch is steep, juggy, exposed and not to be missed! Possibly my favorite climb in the canyon. Great job!

Just some clarification:

The first pitch starts in the "slot" from the ground. I had been confused by what the "slot" was. If you look up from the ground you will see some white chains at the top of a V groove. Those are the first chains for Brown Noser. The beginning of Shades of Grey is the slab on the left of the V. The bolts are black ... more >>


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Logan > Mile 385 Area > Goat Debris (5.11a)
By: Taylor Gemperline When: Jul 20, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Really enjoyed this route!The first bit I didn't find too hard. I thought it was pretty straight forward though certainly committing.


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Ogden > Snowbasin > Mt. Ogden > The Gray Slabs (5.9)
By: Taylor Gemperline When: Jul 6, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Anyone have a Needles Lodge to Needles Lodge time estimate for the route?


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Ogden > Ogden Boulder Field > Lower Boulder Field > Photo
By: Taylor Gemperline When: Jul 3, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: If zoolander bouldered, this is what he would look like. AWESOME shot!


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Ogden > The Schoolroom > Asbury Park > ... > Teardrops on the City (5.11b)
By: Taylor Gemperline When: Jun 3, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Nesting Eagles:
As I clipped the chains two or three eagles began screeching and dive bombing me. They were nesting about 15 ft up and south of the chains. They aren't directly in your path, in fact they are pretty far off the path, but it sure seems they don't love you up there.


Location: Utah > Echo Canyon > Roadside Crag > Unknown 5.10c (5.10b/c)
By: Taylor Gemperline When: May 5, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Best on the wall IMHO. Hard red point crux, but when you find all the key holds, the sequence is straight forward and fun.


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Ogden > Ogden Canyon > Utah Wall > Apex Right (5.8)
By: Taylor Gemperline When: May 4, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Fun roof with what I found to be rather technical, so more of a 5.9 than a 5.8. Once its unlocked the moves alone aren't more than a 5.8.

Bomber BD #3 placement inside the roof.


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Ogden > Ogden Canyon > Upper Utah Wall
By: Taylor Gemperline When: Apr 17, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: I second what Tyler said. If you want some quality slab sport climbing the approach is worth it.


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Ogden > Ogden Canyon > Upper Utah Wall > 911 (5.11a)
By: Taylor Gemperline When: Apr 15, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: I really loved this climb! The movement is fun and the climbing thin.

A stick clip is nice if you have one though the bolt isn't very high. Since I was climbing a little above my grade standing on my belay's shoulders to clip the first bolt worked fine.


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Ogden > Ogden Canyon > Upper 5.8 Wall > Another Friend (5.7)
By: Taylor Gemperline When: Apr 13, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Here is a video of this route. I have no connection to those in the video or know anything about them, but I recognized the route and put it here for anyone interested.




Location: Utah > West Desert > Stansbury Mountains > The Valley of Zion > Blob's Your Uncle > Greg's Bear Hug (5.9)
By: Taylor Gemperline When: Mar 12, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: While belaying a new climber they reported that there is a loose block about the size of a microwave halfway up this route. I never personally found saw it so if it is there it is easily avoided.


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Farmington Crag > The Era of Tara (5.10a)
By: Taylor Gemperline When: Mar 5, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Does anyone have more of a description as to where this is other than "right side of the butt?" A photo perhaps?


Location: Utah > Echo Canyon > The Witches > Skinny Witch (5.9)
By: Taylor Gemperline When: Oct 22, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This is a pretty cool climb considering it is a sweet tower, but I honestly cannot condone anyone going up this thing if they value their lives. The bolts are... homemade??? They honestly look like they couldn't hold a fall. Well guess what? We found out they can. I ended up pulling out a rock the size of a melon while clipping the second to last "bolt" and took the scariest fall of my life. It was cool once I was up but its not worth the danger ... more >>


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Farmington Crag > Klingon Arete (5.7)
By: Taylor Gemperline When: Sep 16, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I decided to try to lead this route on trad. It protects very well if you stay in the dihedrals to the right. This makes the route much more worth climbing. I gave it 3 stars for the area because it has some fun moves and a cool feeling location on the rock.

Standard rack does just fine up to a #2 Camalot. Built an anchor at the top with my gear but I'm sure you could actually just sling a 20ft strip of webbing around the big crack in the top and be good.


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Farmington Crag > Suck it Up Princess (5.9-)
By: Taylor Gemperline When: Sep 16, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: For the area this is actually a decent climb! Just make sure you climb straight up the bolt line and don't cheat.


Location: Utah > Saint George > Black Rocks > Shady Side > The 5 AM Lookouts (5.10a)
By: Taylor Gemperline When: Aug 13, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: First 15 feet makes the route IMO


Location: Utah > Saint George > Black Rocks > Shady Side > The Beginning (5.10b)
By: Taylor Gemperline When: Aug 13, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This route was incredibly slick when I climbed it. For that reason I think it is harder than 10b. Get it down and it is an awesome climb though


Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · Contact · About