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Rock Climbing Photo: Beer Anyone?


Member Since: Jan 24, 2006
Last Visit: 20 mins ago
Contact susan peplow

Point Rank: # 202
Total Points: 3,000
Last Year: 168
Last 30 Days: 83
92 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has susan peplow been climbing?










Contributions


All 3181 | Routes 79 | Areas 7 | Photos 265 | Page Improvements | Comments 780 | Posts 452 | Stars 1234 | Ratings 364
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Vagmarken Hill : The Ranch : The Horse (5.9+)
By: susan peplow When: Nov 20, 2016

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Comments: Didn't find this particularly 9+ .

This route is likely the second best on the wall, second to the Ranch Hand. The rooflet is nicely bolted and rock solid. Choose your starting slab plates with care, no penalty but some are sure to chip or detach all together. Another victim of grade creep, this route is grossly overrated... it's more like 5.8 at best.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Vagmarken Hill : The Ranch : The Donkey (5.10a)
By: susan peplow When: Nov 20, 2016

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Comments: Worth doing but like the other routes on the wall and as reported it's a little loose in spots. Our crew didn't knock anything down during our visit but fancy ourselves as "loose rock specialists". Near the final bolt, there is definitely some less than solid plates, climber and belayer should be paying attention. Takes pro well, climbs fun enough and shares anchor with The horse


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Vagmarken Hill : The Ranch : The Llama (5.9-)
By: susan peplow When: Nov 20, 2016

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Comments: A mixed line with bolts and ample gear options. Gear is good, easy to find and not funky or fiddly. Take some nuts and smaller gear in particular, interesting to watch who uses what for the upper crack. I opted for a textbook placement stopper, where two friend elected small cams. See for yourself, watch where you climb and belayers. No daydreaming or counting cars. Watch for loose rock.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Vagmarken Hill : The Ranch : The Ranch Hand (5.7)
By: susan peplow When: Nov 20, 2016

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Comments: Best on the wall, fun climbing and probably the most solid of rock too. Nicely bolted with option for a 2.5" cam at the top before gaining the anchors. Consider long runners for top anchors if TR'ing, they're set back a bit.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Vagmarken Hill : The Ranch : The Rabbit (5.8-)
By: susan peplow When: Nov 20, 2016

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Comments: Fun enough, not overly loose but a little bit of quality still raining down so beware.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : The Arizona Strip : Lime Kiln Canyon : The Sacred Trust : Office Party (5.10a)
By: susan peplow When: Nov 19, 2016

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Comments: Okay route but I wouldn't say the bees knees for quality. Nice aspect when you top out and the lower 3 pitches are really fun but as you progress to the upper tears the quality drops and so does the star rating. If you're truly expecting a 3/4 star classic you'll likely be disappointed as I was. Fun enough, don't get me wrong but do yourself a favor and have a back up plan and other routes to do in the area. Soli... more >>


Location: UT : Saint George : Utah Hills : Woodbury Road Crags : Kelly's Rock : Unknown 1 (5.6)
By: susan peplow When: Nov 19, 2016

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Comments: Limestone Bible holders... which route do you think this is?


Location: UT : Saint George : Utah Hills : Woodbury Road Crags : Kelly's Rock : Demagogue (5.7)
By: susan peplow When: Nov 19, 2016

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Comments: Long gone now so can't quite remember the specifics. Is this the same route listed as k2 5.8 in the Limestone Bible? Photo did me no favors in remembering but didn't really match the description.


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon West : Fullerton Wall : The 4 Horsemen (5.11a)
By: susan peplow When: Nov 19, 2016

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Comments: Nice opening moves and fun movement on this shorty. Sunny, Sweet and Soft for the grade.


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon West : Fullerton Wall : Bog of Eternal Stench (5.11b/c)
By: susan peplow When: Nov 19, 2016

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Comments: Slightly awkward start but not in a bad way, just funky for balance which adds to the route vs. detracts. Climbs like a classic NJC route where it feels the holds are facing the wrong way then eases after the 2nd bolt. Greatly overrated, not by letters but a full number.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Ghosts : The Eye of Horus
By: susan peplow When: Nov 16, 2016

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Comments: Hidden in plain site are a handful of some very quality lines. Scrambling up the boulders is a hassle so when you're at the base of Climb Like an Egyptian turn around to the east and smear up that micro-face gain you a sandy corridor you can walk around. The boulders go, they're just a hassle.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Ghosts : ... : Climb Like an Egyptian (5.10c)
By: susan peplow When: Nov 16, 2016

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Comments: Too short but soo sweet. Starts at the flat sandy base just before a 6' tall boulder. Good place to leave you pup if you brought one. The route climbs very well, Bishop Area Rock Climbs lists this route as 10c. Again, over inflation of the grade but not the climbing... add a star drop a few letters. Good stuff.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Ghosts : ... : King Tut Vs. John Wayne Liv... (5.10a)
By: susan peplow When: Nov 16, 2016

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Comments: Like the neighboring routes holds appear just as you would want. Possibly the easiest route on the wall. Bolt placements are thoughtful, likely as they were placed on lead. Nicely spaced, maybe one mini-crux section two-thirds of the way up but doesn't impact rating. Rock has been cleaned and nothing to be concerned about except for perhaps one creaky fellow.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Ghosts : ... : Pharaohs On Fungi (5.10d)
By: susan peplow When: Nov 16, 2016

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Comments: 3 stars, the start is more technical and maybe even a little slick with it's bullet proof rose color quartz monzonite. First bolt placement protects any funky moves and maybe a little reachy if you're 5.7 with a bum shoulder. Bishop Area Rock Climbs has this route as 5.10d, it is more like .10b/c even with consideration to the area. Semi-technical but not sequential start leads to easier climbin... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Ghosts : ... : Jackal Headed Woman (5.10a)
By: susan peplow When: Nov 16, 2016

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Comments: True to grade and if you're going left to right at the cliff you're setting a great tone for the crag. Fun, extremely well placed pro, mini-roof is clean and easily surmounted.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : South Park : Drillers Moon (5.8)
By: susan peplow When: Nov 16, 2016

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Comments: I love Todd and all, but your thought process and blind following is flawed. Todd and "it's all good mentality" is part of the problem, told him as much many times. Get your Kumbaya on with a hike or campfire without putting up a blight of a route.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Hell Wall : Right Hell Crack (5.10b/c)
By: susan peplow When: Nov 14, 2016

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Comments: Just like the neighbor, this is a fine route. I found the climbing to be pretty sustained, not realy easing at the top as Russ thought. YMMV, but a good find and would be a good mix to put in on any Alabama or AZ dome days.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Hell Wall : Left Hell Crack (5.10a/b)
By: susan peplow When: Nov 14, 2016

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Comments: Going with 3 stars, the crack start is clean and leads to excellent clipping hold. It looks and climbs like modern bolting methods with thoughtful placements and no additonal pro needed. Even down low, maybe a small cam or nut but honestly, where you'd plug one of those in you'd be set up to clip the bolt anyways. Better than your average 2 star route.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : South Park : The Groove (5.10a/b)
By: susan peplow When: Nov 14, 2016

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Comments: This route is actually worth hiking to! Good rock, fun movement and has you exploring features all around you. Bonus... Mussy hooks for quick escape to your next adventure.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : South Park : Choss Avoidance Syndrome (5.10a)
By: susan peplow When: Nov 14, 2016

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Comments: Three stars for the first two bolts, the rock feature color and overall movement is super good. Then comes the grains and creaky holds dropping to one start for the upper 2/3rds. Combined rating... 2 stars and worth climbing sans those damn chains that you need to thread.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : South Park : Drillers Moon (5.8)
By: susan peplow When: Nov 14, 2016

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Comments: So-so line on so-so rock. Better than SFT in regards to rock quality, but that's not saying much. Pretty happy that the Driller's Moon that evening was at our campspot and not the crag. TR value if you're ticking the crag but boy oh boy, have we dropped the bar.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Western Wall Area : ... : RCM (Redneck Cracker Mother... (5.10b)
By: susan peplow When: Nov 14, 2016

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Comments: I'm generally a fan of a chimney, this one is was a little intimidating. Perhaps due to cold-finger first route of the day but was thrilled I opted out of the lead, the start definately had my attention. The route is sustained, with holds just when you need them. Not really a pump fest but has your scrutiny the whole way. Good value and a fine line. Truley an area classic.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Western Wall Area : ... : Flappy (5.10c)
By: susan peplow When: Nov 14, 2016

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Comments: Very fun, more technical start and slightly harder than the neighboring RCM but eases after the first two bolts. Good stuff, borderline 4 stars but feeling stingy.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Cattle Pocket and Corridors... : ... : Choss Factor 10 (5.8+ PG13)
By: susan peplow When: Nov 14, 2016

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Comments: What a pile, not worth doing even off the valley floor. Working the arete on the start is better than the gravel slot/shelf climbers left. Both are awful. Unless you're on a tick the AHiils tour, move along.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Western Wall Area : ... : Pill Box (5.10a/b)
By: susan peplow When: Nov 14, 2016

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Comments: Agree, hardest of the set on the wall (King of Swing excluded). The least stable in rock quality too. Fun enough and worth doing.


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