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Member Since: Jan 24, 2006
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact susan peplow

Point Rank: # 300
Total Points: 2,075

99 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has susan peplow been climbing?










Contributions


All 3252 | Routes 79 | Areas 7 | Photos 277 | Page Improvements | Comments 796 | Posts 460 | Stars 1267 | Ratings 366
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: California : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Stone Wall
By: susan peplow When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Summer destination late afternoon... shady and good value.


Location: California : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Crystal Closet Queen (5.8)
By: susan peplow When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Climbs better than it looks with some good knobs and think flake feature. Pretty fun albeit micro in size. The first bolt is oddly placed.


Location: California : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Blue Bayou (5.7)
By: susan peplow When: 2 days ago

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Comments: @Phyl - I think 4 bolts and that was using the last bolt of the neighboring route. The better of the two 7's on that way by far margin.


Location: California : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Epitaph (5.11a)
By: susan peplow When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Beautiful line and rock, a little grungy at the stance before the first bolt which is quickly passed both in movement and memory. Bolt placements are thoughtful and easy to clip. Perhaps height dependent - our 6' partner Alex had no issue, I'm 5'7 and had no issue while our 5'4" partner chose a different, less reachy line but pulled it off no trouble.

A 3 bolt gem and definitely worth doing. Bolts are beefy, top left anchor bolt spins slightly but plenty of shaft expos... more >>


Location: California : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Bum Steer (5.10a)
By: susan peplow When: Jul 14, 2017

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Comments: Another so-so route to do if your main objective is taken. Erik is right, the anchor is a mess - still is 4 years later. Fatty cold-shuts with single smash links below. Difficult to thread, a for sure rope twister and rumors of stuck ropes from the pull. We avoided by using the links above not the smash-links.

I've done the route in the past, and might do it again but in no rush. Anyone reading this today should bring up a set of quick links as MisterE suggested or just donate a few ... more >>


Location: California : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Arrogant Bastard (5.11a)
By: susan peplow When: Jul 14, 2017

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Comments: Good 5.10 climbing beginning and end with a discernible mid-point crux.


Location: California : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Vertical Epic (5.10a)
By: susan peplow When: Jul 14, 2017

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Comments: Very good and dreamy shady location late afternoon in the summer. Final moves seem forced and unnecessary to squeeze past that final block. Maybe the anchor was placed due to top-down development.


Location: California : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Ruination (5.9)
By: susan peplow When: Jul 14, 2017

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Comments: Fun enough, long and worth doing. 3 stars, that's a stretch. Great bolt placements but it wonders a bit and pulls meanders through some boulders in the sky. If you weren't paying attention you'd stop before the summit and use the neighboring route (climbers right) anchor which is at an obvious stance. Which, I wouldn't necessarily recommend using as the move from that ledge is quite fun.

Question Fellas... near the top, say 3 bolts from the anchor you're passing one of t... more >>


Location: California : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : The Peacemaker (5.11b)
By: susan peplow When: Jul 14, 2017

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Comments: The bulge is extremely difficult. Just the right amount of fun and balance to reach some key holds and clipping safe (TR hero here). Switching hands to pull the bulge seemed almost undoable. Right hip in, left hip in, straight on, bionic strength... nothing worked. Ultimately, a full cheat of hang and swap hands without sequence to pull the move and top out.

Sometimes you're just not good enough to do a route but can see/read the line. This wasn't like that... I don't think ... more >>


Location: California : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Hang 'Em High (5.10d)
By: susan peplow When: Jul 14, 2017

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Comments: So-so at best but you do get to use the finishing holds of Riccochet which are very fun. So that's a plus.


Location: California : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Ricochet (5.10a)
By: susan peplow When: Jul 14, 2017

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Comments: Nice flow over positive holds. One section mid-way which the holds get a little creaky and quality drops but not enough to affect the star value or recommendation. Nice line, nice belay.


Location: California : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Bacon Taco (5.10a)
By: susan peplow When: Jul 14, 2017

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Comments: Fun route, easy to clip the first bolt... balance required to pass it. Pretty fun MILES better than the cruddy 5.9 across the way on Claim jumper. If you're geared up and in the area, it's definitely worth stopping to do.


Location: California : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Lady Luck (5.9)
By: susan peplow When: Jul 14, 2017

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Comments: Single star only for proximity. The route really isn't that good. Awkward at the start, funky at the top. But if you're looking for something to wiggle around on while the gaggle of top ropers move along from the routes to the right I suppose it's an option. YMMV.


Location: California : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : French Quartered (5.7)
By: susan peplow When: Jul 10, 2017

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Comments: Surprised by not reading any descriptions and just heading off for a warm up. Crossing over to the formation across the way is contrived. The neighboring route to the right is near the same (yet different bolt line) did we really need that extra 12' of a unique start?

The likelihood of doing this route a second time is slim.


Location: California : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Mardi Gras (5.10b)
By: susan peplow When: Jul 10, 2017

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Comments: The entire wall is pretty fun but this route is the cleanest and best of the lot.


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Dark Horse (5.10a/b)
By: susan peplow When: Jan 8, 2017

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Comments: "With a 1-2" horizontal crack directly behind you, is there any technical reason to not slam a couple cams in or is it just a time saving/speed thing?"

Actually I did set a two piece belay WAY at the top, long past the block noted which seemed very premature and a false summit to boot. Tons of rope, past a bush and a partner still in shoes (vs. socks).. #Bomber


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Vagmarken Hill : The Ranch : The Horse (5.9+)
By: susan peplow When: Nov 20, 2016

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Comments: Didn't find this particularly 9+ .

This route is likely the second best on the wall, second to the Ranch Hand. The rooflet is nicely bolted and rock solid. Choose your starting slab plates with care, no penalty but some are sure to chip or detach all together. Another victim of grade creep, this route is grossly overrated... it's more like 5.8 at best.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Vagmarken Hill : The Ranch : The Donkey (5.10a)
By: susan peplow When: Nov 20, 2016

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Comments: Worth doing but like the other routes on the wall and as reported it's a little loose in spots. Our crew didn't knock anything down during our visit but fancy ourselves as "loose rock specialists". Near the final bolt, there is definitely some less than solid plates, climber and belayer should be paying attention. Takes pro well, climbs fun enough and shares anchor with The horse


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Vagmarken Hill : The Ranch : The Llama (5.9-)
By: susan peplow When: Nov 20, 2016

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Comments: A mixed line with bolts and ample gear options. Gear is good, easy to find and not funky or fiddly. Take some nuts and smaller gear in particular, interesting to watch who uses what for the upper crack. I opted for a textbook placement stopper, where two friend elected small cams. See for yourself, watch where you climb and belayers. No daydreaming or counting cars. Watch for loose rock.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Vagmarken Hill : The Ranch : The Ranch Hand (5.7)
By: susan peplow When: Nov 20, 2016

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Comments: Best on the wall, fun climbing and probably the most solid of rock too. Nicely bolted with option for a 2.5" cam at the top before gaining the anchors. Consider long runners for top anchors if TR'ing, they're set back a bit.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Vagmarken Hill : The Ranch : The Rabbit (5.8-)
By: susan peplow When: Nov 20, 2016

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Comments: Fun enough, not overly loose but a little bit of quality still raining down so beware.


Location: Arizona : Northern Arizona : The Arizona Strip : Lime Kiln Canyon : The Sacred Trust : Office Party (5.10a)
By: susan peplow When: Nov 19, 2016

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Comments: Okay route but I wouldn't say the bees knees for quality. Nice aspect when you top out and the lower 3 pitches are really fun but as you progress to the upper tears the quality drops and so does the star rating. If you're truly expecting a 3/4 star classic you'll likely be disappointed as I was. Fun enough, don't get me wrong but do yourself a favor and have a back up plan and other routes to do in the area. Soli... more >>


Location: Utah : Saint George : Utah Hills : Woodbury Road Crags : Kelly's Rock : Unknown 1 (5.6)
By: susan peplow When: Nov 19, 2016

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Comments: Limestone Bible holders... which route do you think this is?


Location: Utah : Saint George : Utah Hills : Woodbury Road Crags : Kelly's Rock : Demagogue (5.7)
By: susan peplow When: Nov 19, 2016

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Comments: Long gone now so can't quite remember the specifics. Is this the same route listed as k2 5.8 in the Limestone Bible? Photo did me no favors in remembering but didn't really match the description.


Location: California : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon West : Fullerton Wall : The 4 Horsemen (5.11a)
By: susan peplow When: Nov 19, 2016

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Comments: Nice opening moves and fun movement on this shorty. Sunny, Sweet and Soft for the grade.


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