Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community

Member Since: Aug 19, 2008
Last Visit: Nov 25, 2016
Contact Stormeh

Point Rank: # 10,461
Total Points: 39
Last Year: 2
Last 30 Days: 0
0 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1

Where has Stormeh been climbing?


All 403 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 1 | Page Improvements | Comments 23 | Posts 19 | Stars 189 | Ratings 170
Page 1 of 17.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Unas Slayer of the Gods

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c (2)

Sport, 1 pitch, 30'

CA : San Bernardino Mountains : ... : Cracked Tower

Nov 9, 2010

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: Unas climbs the green line in this photo. Photo by...

Unas climbs the green line in this photo. Photo by C. Miller.

CA : San Bernardino Mountains : ... : Unas Slayer of the Gods (5.11a)

Nov 9, 2010

Contributed Comments


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland South : Wonderland Valley : ... : Mental Physics (5.7)
By: Stormeh When: Feb 22, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: First pitch takes great pro and is fantastic, never too difficult and certainly not 7+. Second pitch is typical Josh bullshit with 1 bolt on the entire pitch...totally unnecessary and stupid. Yes, the climbing is easy, but you're looking at a 60 ft FF2 onto the belay if you happen to pop off. In many places the hands are not great so you are looking at pure friction (albeit easy) for most of the pitch until it eases up significantly 15 feet or so after the only bolt.

I guess my head wasn't in i... more >>

Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (b) North Face : El Grandote (5.9)
By: Stormeh When: Sep 29, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Did the first pitch of this before bailing to El Whampo due to being stuck behind a slow party. I thought the rock quality was quite poor for the stars this route had received, although the moves were ok I guess.

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Rattlesnake Buttress : Taken for Granite (5.8-)
By: Stormeh When: Feb 2, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I agree with DJ above. The flake 40' up the route is in the middle of everything, is precariously perched with no obvious solid attachment, and had me quite worried when climbing up it.

Apart from the flake, it's a great route. I thought the crux is right off the ground, along with when the crack thins out 2/3 of the way up.

I was also confused by the location of the tat nest up top to rap off of. It is slung around a thin pinch between two boulders, instead one of the boulders themselves. If ... more >>

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : N00b Rock : N00ber Goober (5.7)
By: Stormeh When: Jan 25, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Anchor still there and this is a pretty fun little wall because of it.

Location: UT : Zion National Park : East Side : Aries Butte : Led by Sheep (5.6)
By: Stormeh When: Oct 7, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Any chance you can lead/descend this route with 1 60m and 1 50m rope?

Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Running Springs Area : Keller Peak : Children's Forest : ... : Sam I Am (5.10a)
By: Stormeh When: Oct 6, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Are Singer and Cardmon very tall fellows? I found the bolting on this route to be very frustrating at 5'10". I could not clip the first (and most important) bolt from the stance, and would not want to make those crux moves without that clipped. The rest of the bolts are similarly high, but perhaps not quite as bad or critical as the first.

A very fun route bolting aside. If less than 6' I would suggest TRing if 10a is even close to your limit.

Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Cattle Pocket and Corridors... : ... : Fizz (5.10b)
By: Stormeh When: Sep 14, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Didn't find much choss on it. Thought it was a great route, relatively sustained (but you can find rests often.)

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Future Games Rock : Invisibility Lessons (5.9) : Photo
By: Stormeh When: Aug 15, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Geez. It's not.

Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear South : Castle Rock Area : ... : Zorro (5.10a)
By: Stormeh When: Jul 13, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: My opinion, this climb is awful. The climbing up to the roof is actually ok, but semi-difficult to pro. The jamming isn't great so liebacking is probably your best bet, making the inobvious pro difficult and pumpy to place. Once you make it to the roof, you are greeted with some of the dirtiest rock you will encounter in your life. The rock becomes chossy, meaning you will be thinking hard about whether or not that cam will blow should your foot pop off of the lichen and dirt covered holds.

Sta... more >>

Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear South : Castle Rock Area : ... : Cryptology (5.10b)
By: Stormeh When: Jul 13, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Wow, this is a great climb! How did this gem of a climb not get established earlier? The climb follows a discontinuous left leaning crack system which provides fantastic crimps, with good, somewhat sloping feet reminiscent of Josh as the description states.

Highly recommended! If this were longer it'd be an area classic up there with Knightline.

Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear South : Castle Rock Area : ... : Damsel in Distress (5.9)
By: Stormeh When: Jul 13, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This would be a pretty fun route if not for the god-awful 2nd bolt placement. The route would require no trad gear if the 2nd bolt was 3-4 inches lower-- allowing one to clip from the stance-- unless you wanted to protect the 5.0 climbing between bolt 2 and 3.

Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (h) Rubble Row : Tailspin (5.10a)
By: Stormeh When: Feb 24, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: One of my few bombs on MP. Seriously, only do this route if you really love climbing through bird shit, and lots of it. 5.nothing climbing leads to 2 moves of funky 5.10, where more 5.nothing climbing through the aforementioned shit gets you to oddly placed anchors. Good times?

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Locomotion Rock : Snnfchtt (5.8+)
By: Stormeh When: Feb 11, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The start is definitely harder than 5.8. I thought it was harder than any of the moves on the 10b to the right of it, for what it's worth. I also though moving from the stance below the crack was harder than 8.

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Little Hunk : Little Hunk - NE Face : ... : Power Line (5.7)
By: Stormeh When: Jan 30, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: I thought this route was terrible. First off: Lots of bat/bird shit immediately left of the route. Additionally, terrible rock quality means bad pro, and I didn't feel at all comfortable tackling the steeper head wall with a microcam or nut in rotting, dark rock. Instead I cut left to the bolts to finish up on the anchors of those slab routes, which are much better (albeit harder) than Power Line. Bomb. Seriously, pass on this route.

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Group Campsites Road : Group Campsite 2 : Klettervergnugen (5.9)
By: Stormeh When: Dec 29, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Significantly harder than 5.9, imo, and as noted above, the bolts do not inspire confidence. The hanger on the bottom bolt is pretty mangled. Bomb. Might be 1 star if the bolts were better, but still, I think a grade of 10a/b is fair. Or I just really suck at slab.

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Steve Canyon Area : Steve Canyon : ... : Skinny Dip (5.7 R)
By: Stormeh When: Oct 31, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Tried this route on lead for the first time in 3 years and couldn't fit through. 3 years ago when I did it, I fit through but had no rack on me as I was on TR. Probably also skinnier then. FYI, I am 5'10 150lbs and couldn't do it. I have fairly broad shoulders and chest though, but still, you do need to be skinny. Bailed off the bolt to the right of the orifice.

Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (d) Northwest Recess : The Consolation (5.9)
By: Stormeh When: Jul 23, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: A good route with a hard crux. I thought placing gear at the top of the double cracks was the real crux, as it's pumpy and tiring to place from the admittedly good jams.

After the third pitch went right-ish to try to join the Long Climb. This is my 2nd time on the upper half of the Long Climb and I still couldn't find the "downward pointing flake." I climbed around broken terrain finally ending up on top of a block with faded green rap slings around it. From here I traversed almost exactly righ... more >>

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Mounds : Eff Eight (5.8)
By: Stormeh When: Jun 6, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: You are correct randy. I'm glad you left this route out of your classics guide.

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Mounds : Eff Eight (5.8)
By: Stormeh When: Jun 5, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: I can't even believe this thing is in the classics book. I gave it one star...was tempted to bomb it, but it certainly is memorable: you will never work so hard for 10 feet of climbing on another 5.8 in your life. The initial jugs lure you into a false sense of security and then the awkward OW happens. You'll be curse the lack of any reasonable left feet and grunt your way to the top, only to find misplaced bolts or a wide crack to build an anchor.

When you finish the route you can't help but l... more >>

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Rock Garden Valley : Rock Garden Valley - Left S... : Rock Candy (5.9+)
By: Stormeh When: Apr 18, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: I would say all of 10a, and quite serious as well. When compared to Loose Lady, you have to call this thing 10a, and the pro is worse as well. Very sustained. Great route!

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Cove : Echo Cove - North Side : The Sound of One Shoe Tappi... (5.8)
By: Stormeh When: Mar 31, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: The slab section is fairly easy, I agree not consistent with Josh 5.8, but the runout makes you think for sure.

Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (g) West Face : West Face - Right Side : The Slab (5.8 R)
By: Stormeh When: Dec 16, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: I mistakenly got on this instead of the desired Fingertrip. *Phew*...rough. The strenuous laybacking with few good rest stances means gear is scarce. I give it a 5.8+ R rating. I know stronger climbers might disagree with me about the R, but this definitely isn't a climber for a novice. It seems to me that many climbers mistake this for Fingertrip and get in over their heads, seeing as how I saw 2 bail pieces on the route when I did it. Probably a good place to booty gear, actually.

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Cove : Echo Cove - East Side : Jughead (5.10a)
By: Stormeh When: Nov 22, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Unless I missed one, only 2 bolts are on the route now, protecting the crux well but nothing above it. I kind of wish there was a 3rd. Only saw 1 chicken head good enough to sling, but it was a fair ways above the 2nd bolt.

Page 1 of 17.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>