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Member Since: May 24, 2007
Last Visit: Oct 28, 2016
Contact stevecurtis

Point Rank: # 3,603
Total Points: 189
Last Year: 7
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has stevecurtis been climbing?










Contributions


All 190 | Routes 4 | Areas 1 | Photos 9 | Page Improvements | Comments 89 | Posts 84 | Stars 3 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Standing Rock : The Regular Route (5.11c)
By: stevecurtis When: Oct 28, 2016

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Comments: A great climb. The rock is more like stolen chimney/ancient art than other towers. First pitch is pretty straight forward. Second pitch--average climbers getting on this thing ought to be able to climb up to the roof without pro, negating the need for back cleaning. The roof is awkward and obscure. Above, the climbing is runout, and you will pass two intermediate anchors before arriving at the 4 pin + stardriver ledge. The business is at the start of the second pitch. Pray for anchor inte... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Face (5.11-)
By: stevecurtis When: Oct 28, 2016

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Comments: I did this recently with 3 #3s and a #4. The four is handy for the first and last pitch. I walked one #3 a ways. 4 would be nicer. Every pitch on this is great. If you rap the last pitch with a single 70, it is necessary to rap skiers right to the ledge above the anchor, and then down climb (with belay).


Location: CA : Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Central Wall : Eagle Buttress, Right Side (5.9)
By: stevecurtis When: Oct 13, 2016

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Comments: Did this rope solo a few days ago. A few notes.

Pitch one starts with 15 feet of 5.9 climbing to a questionable pin. Move left and place a good small nut. Above that is a cam placement against a loose flake. OK but hard not to use the flake to move higher. Move further left and go up so-so climbing to the large ledge. Far right is a bolted belay/rap station. 180 ft. Off of this the knob toss. I initially did this, and then decided instead to move further right, up and around the roof, ... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Slab Happy Pinnacle : Never Say Dog (5.11b PG13)
By: stevecurtis When: May 15, 2016

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Comments: I agree with the bold and beautiful. A bit too bold maybe--call it R.
Anyway, first pitch is bold, but the move to the bolt is easier than it looks. The first move or two beyond the bolt is harder. The moves across the wide section higher can be protected with smaller cams inside. Belay at a fixed nut. Pitch two is 40 meters of slab with 6 bolts. There is a 40 ft runout between the second and third bolt on easier terrain. The moves higher feel pretty hard. Belay up and left at the start ... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Slab Happy Pinnacle : Slab Happy Pinnacle, Center (5.10b)
By: stevecurtis When: May 15, 2016

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Comments: Did this 14 May. Pitch 1 has some hard slab moves. Don't expect 10 B. However, the climbing is great. The start is way easier than it looks. After that?? Hard for 15 ft. After the first three bolts the climbing eases considerably, but the gear is marginal. Nothing bigger than a green camalot. Right before the belay there are harder moves with a fall that is somewhat clean. Two bolt hanging belay. The second pitch heads dead right for 20 ft to a bolt on 5.8 slab. After the bolt there ... more >>


Location: South America : Ecuador : Chimborazo : Standard Route (R)
By: stevecurtis When: Jan 4, 2016

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Comments: Dec 2015. Route was mostly ice. Low angle. The day I went up about 20 people. A guide cost me $210 and was worth it. Snow started at about 18000 ft. It got much colder above 19000 ft.

NOTE: THE ROUTE NOW LEAVES FROM THE LOWER PARKING LOT. YOU CAN ALSO LEAVE FROM THE HIGHER HUT (NOT USED ANYMORE). IT IS QUICKER, BUT YOU ARE EXPOSED TO ROCK FALL. WE CAME DOWN THAT WAY, AND A HUGE CHUNK OF ROCK PRECEDED OUR CROSSING.


Location: South America : Ecuador : Cojitambo
By: stevecurtis When: Jan 4, 2016

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Comments: Cojitambo has some good climbing to 5 pitches. There is a climber's hostel down and skiers right of the church. About 3/4 miles down this road. Look for a house with some climbing paraphernalia out front. I believe there is a small sign with a climbing icon across the street.

Anyway, there are good climbs, and good friendly local climbers to help. There is a guidebook at the hostel. Last charge 12$.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Lost Arrow Spire : Lost Arrow Chimney (5.10a)
By: stevecurtis When: Jun 29, 2015

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Comments: Chad recommended this route to me too. I've spent 38 years of climbing avoiding routes like this one. It will take a while for the memory to fade.
Take knee pads. Mine are a mess. The route takes more time than half dome RR. Don't let the moderate grade fool you. After pitch 7, you are half way done. A few notes. We didn't use the recommended belays on every pitch. We didn't run full pitches together either. The first few pitches are easy. Turning the roof on pitch 3 looks like a horr... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Liberty Cap : Scarface (Free) (5.12)
By: stevecurtis When: May 6, 2015

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Comments: WE enjoyed the route. Did it 1 May.

The second pitch was really wet and a slick layback
We took off a few loose blocks on the fourth, and elsewhere.
A second #4 isn't needed on pitch 7. I didn't use any #3 on the pitch either.
We used 3-4 yellow aliens and purple camalots on nearly every pitch. Three greens are also a good idea. double purple master cam. Doubles to yellow camalot, single 3 and 4. Singles on very small cams. A set of offset nuts.
We got lost on pitch 10. Here i... more >>


Location: UT : House Range : Notch Peak : Book of Saturday (5.11a R)
By: stevecurtis When: Aug 2, 2014

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Comments: I did this with John Robinson. It was a good, long day. There are a few spots with reasonably hard --10A --climbing, loose holds, injury fall. On pitch 7 or 8, there was at least 200 lbs of vertical rock ready to go, in the correct line. John knocked most of it off when he came up.

No 5.11 climbing. Be adept at easy 5.10, way over your gear, on loose rock. I was most impressed with my 70 year old partner. We swung leads the entire day. A single set of cams, maybe with two red aliens, up... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Johnson Mountain : The Force Boyle. (5.11 A0)
By: stevecurtis When: Mar 31, 2014

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Comments: Did this last week. A good route. My partner freed everything while following (we were three) He thought about 12 A.


Location: UT : House Range : Notch Peak : Western Hardman (5.10+)
By: stevecurtis When: May 20, 2013

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Comments: We did this thing mid may. Conditions couldn't have been better, but the weather deteriorated on our hike to the fin.

The route is great, low commitment, well protected above 5.8. I did a really dumb man variation on the second to the last pitch. Into a very loose corner and face far left. The pitch above the last rap looks good too.
It is possible to do a tyrolean type rap for the second from the top. Speeds matters.
10C is probably a better grade


Location: UT : House Range : West Sawtooth Canyon : Snake Dike Wall : Anti-Crack (5.11c)
By: stevecurtis When: May 20, 2013

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Comments: A fun route with a thin crux. I thought the grade was closer to 11a.


Location: CA : Tahoe : I-80 Corridor : Auburn SRA : Cave Valley (aka Auburn Qua... : ... : Chariots on Fire (5.12a)
By: stevecurtis When: Apr 21, 2013

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Comments: Another great route, but at the end of the day, I was wasted for the second pitch. It did feel a bit harder than the 12A out front. This one is still dirty too. Should clean up well with some traffic.

Got on this again, and took off another 50 pounds of rock before the arete. There is a good route in there someplace. Getting onto the arete is 11+ or 12 A.


Location: CA : Tahoe : I-80 Corridor : Auburn SRA : Cave Valley (aka Auburn Qua... : ... : Release the Lions (5.11c)
By: stevecurtis When: Apr 21, 2013

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Comments: Did this one 20 April. A really good sustained climb. For reference, I found it about as hard as the good 12 A in the first alcove.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Table Rock : ... : Aloha Patrol (5.11b)
By: stevecurtis When: Feb 1, 2013

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Comments: I agree with the 11B rating. Anyway, a fun route. Do it in two pitches, rappel in three.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Table Rock
By: stevecurtis When: Dec 29, 2012

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Comments: Aaron: thanks for posting the information. The routes are fun, and a unique experience. All the bolts I've used have been solid. Any glue ins?

The hand holds are generally solid, foot nubbins are generally crumbly. It is uncertain if the routes will sustain a prolonged assault by bay area climbers. During your first day or two climbing table, you might find the grades about appropriate. For me, once I got accustomed to the tuft, I found the grades a bit soft. I took some falls on one of ... more >>


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : The Bear : Polar Bear Spire (5.11c)
By: stevecurtis When: Dec 28, 2012

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Comments: Way painful, needs a date with a file.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : The Bear : Old And In The Way (5.11b)
By: stevecurtis When: Dec 28, 2012

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Comments: I finally did this with Jerry's beta from Jonathan. I suppose this might feel like a soft 11 to someone accustomed to 10 ft routes on the damp side of a boulder. For me, the first bit is harder than anything on stone free or the other 12As on the cliff. But I'm an endurance climber.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : The Bubble : Catchy (5.11c)
By: stevecurtis When: Dec 28, 2012

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Comments: I finally did this route. The lower crux is thuggish-one can fall on his belayer if he misses the left holds. The crux bulge for me was underclinging, to a few bear hug moves, to a good slot without feet. The top is too easy to worry about.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Everlasting Gobstopper (5.10d)
By: stevecurtis When: Dec 21, 2012

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Comments: 10D? Hummm. Yeh, I guess I've found 10Ds at laurel knob like this one.

I agree, best route at the cliff.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Lemonhead (5.11b)
By: stevecurtis When: Dec 21, 2012

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Comments: 11 B is probably a good grade if you do the left finish. The right finish is significantly harder than the first crux, and significantly harder than Zagnut. I've climbed more than a few routes in Cochise. Welcome to the sandbag.


Location: CA : Tahoe : South Shore : Woodfords Canyon : Cloudburst Canyon : ... : Pictures of Me (5.10c PG13)
By: stevecurtis When: Aug 6, 2012

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Comments: There are at least two climbs between bush league and pictures. I did both. The direct start to Bush league is much harder than 10 C. the other climb, a bit further left, goes directly up to the corner of the roof, and finishes above a fixed piton. This one has two 11A/B cruxes, and has one spot of marginal pro.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Chapel Wall : New Wave (5.11d)
By: stevecurtis When: Apr 7, 2012

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Comments: A few of the bolts are bad. Three are spinners, and the last is rusted badly and a bit undermined behind.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Carbuncle Buttress : Made to be Broken (5.10+ PG13)
By: stevecurtis When: Mar 10, 2012

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Comments: I found the route challenging for 10+. Furthermore, there are runouts, and at least one spot where one must make crux moves before clipping the bolt, over a small ledge.

A rope solo. I'd give it a PG13.


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