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Member Since: May 24, 2007
Last Visit: Oct 28, 2016
Contact stevecurtis

Point Rank: # 3,619
Total Points: 189
Last Year: 7
Last 30 Days: 0
1 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has stevecurtis been climbing?










Contributions


All 190 | Routes 4 | Areas 1 | Photos 9 | Page Improvements | Comments 89 | Posts 84 | Stars 3 | Ratings
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Rising Crescendo

5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R (5)

Trad, 2 pitches, 175'

CO : South Platte : ... : Cynical Pinnacle

Nov 17, 2009

Perfect Vision

5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R (2)

Trad, 5 pitches, 600'

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Higher Cathedral Rock

Apr 14, 2008

The Crucifix

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b (11)

Trad, 5 pitches, 700'

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Higher Cathedral Rock

Apr 13, 2008

Fatal Mistake

5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b (5)

Trad, 3 pitches, 300'

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : 32 - Elephant Rock

Mar 30, 2008

Contributed Areas

Name Location Date

Ribbon Falls Ampitheater

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Ribbon Falls Area

Mar 30, 2008

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: I-Turkey butt shot.

I-Turkey butt shot.

CO : South Platte : ... : I Turkey/ Resurrection (5.12a)

Jun 6, 2010

Rock Climbing Photo: Getting started in the crux chimney.

Getting started in the crux chimney.

CO : Gunnison : ... : Flakes, The (5.10+ X)

Jun 6, 2010

Rock Climbing Photo: Good gear midway up the X chimney.  Gold offset nu...

Good gear midway up the X chimney. Gold offset nut.

CO : Gunnison : ... : Flakes, The (5.10+ X)

Jun 6, 2010

Rock Climbing Photo: 11 a peg hand crack.  Very fun.

11 a peg hand crack. Very fun.

CO : Gunnison : ... : No Country for Old Men (5.11 R)

Jun 6, 2010

Rock Climbing Photo: Crux, a little stiff.

Crux, a little stiff.

CO : Gunnison : ... : No Country for Old Men (5.11 R)

Jun 6, 2010

Rock Climbing Photo: third pitch before the long runout.  A fall above ...

third pitch before the long runout. A fall above could be 70 ft but harmless--you'd terrorize the climbers on Dark Shadows.

NV : Red Rock : ... : Excellent Adventure (5.11b R)

Apr 3, 2010

Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the crux pitch.

Starting the crux pitch.

CO : Gunnison : ... : Debutante's Ball (5.11)

May 25, 2009

Rock Climbing Photo: Slotting the Czech nut on pitch 9.

Slotting the Czech nut on pitch 9.

CO : Gunnison : ... : Crystal Vision (5.11 PG13)

May 25, 2009

Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch four before the crux.

Pitch four before the crux.

CO : Gunnison : ... : Atlantis (5.11 PG13)

May 25, 2009

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Standing Rock : The Regular Route (5.11c)
By: stevecurtis When: Oct 28, 2016

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Comments: A great climb. The rock is more like stolen chimney/ancient art than other towers. First pitch is pretty straight forward. Second pitch--average climbers getting on this thing ought to be able to climb up to the roof without pro, negating the need for back cleaning. The roof is awkward and obscure. Above, the climbing is runout, and you will pass two intermediate anchors before arriving at the 4 pin + stardriver ledge. The business is at the start of the second pitch. Pray for anchor inte... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Face (5.11-)
By: stevecurtis When: Oct 28, 2016

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Comments: I did this recently with 3 #3s and a #4. The four is handy for the first and last pitch. I walked one #3 a ways. 4 would be nicer. Every pitch on this is great. If you rap the last pitch with a single 70, it is necessary to rap skiers right to the ledge above the anchor, and then down climb (with belay).


Location: CA : Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Central Wall : Eagle Buttress, Right Side (5.9)
By: stevecurtis When: Oct 13, 2016

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Comments: Did this rope solo a few days ago. A few notes.

Pitch one starts with 15 feet of 5.9 climbing to a questionable pin. Move left and place a good small nut. Above that is a cam placement against a loose flake. OK but hard not to use the flake to move higher. Move further left and go up so-so climbing to the large ledge. Far right is a bolted belay/rap station. 180 ft. Off of this the knob toss. I initially did this, and then decided instead to move further right, up and around the roof, ... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Slab Happy Pinnacle : Never Say Dog (5.11b PG13)
By: stevecurtis When: May 15, 2016

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Comments: I agree with the bold and beautiful. A bit too bold maybe--call it R.
Anyway, first pitch is bold, but the move to the bolt is easier than it looks. The first move or two beyond the bolt is harder. The moves across the wide section higher can be protected with smaller cams inside. Belay at a fixed nut. Pitch two is 40 meters of slab with 6 bolts. There is a 40 ft runout between the second and third bolt on easier terrain. The moves higher feel pretty hard. Belay up and left at the start ... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Slab Happy Pinnacle : Slab Happy Pinnacle, Center (5.10b)
By: stevecurtis When: May 15, 2016

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Comments: Did this 14 May. Pitch 1 has some hard slab moves. Don't expect 10 B. However, the climbing is great. The start is way easier than it looks. After that?? Hard for 15 ft. After the first three bolts the climbing eases considerably, but the gear is marginal. Nothing bigger than a green camalot. Right before the belay there are harder moves with a fall that is somewhat clean. Two bolt hanging belay. The second pitch heads dead right for 20 ft to a bolt on 5.8 slab. After the bolt there ... more >>


Location: South America : Ecuador : Chimborazo : Standard Route (R)
By: stevecurtis When: Jan 4, 2016

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Comments: Dec 2015. Route was mostly ice. Low angle. The day I went up about 20 people. A guide cost me $210 and was worth it. Snow started at about 18000 ft. It got much colder above 19000 ft.

NOTE: THE ROUTE NOW LEAVES FROM THE LOWER PARKING LOT. YOU CAN ALSO LEAVE FROM THE HIGHER HUT (NOT USED ANYMORE). IT IS QUICKER, BUT YOU ARE EXPOSED TO ROCK FALL. WE CAME DOWN THAT WAY, AND A HUGE CHUNK OF ROCK PRECEDED OUR CROSSING.


Location: South America : Ecuador : Cojitambo
By: stevecurtis When: Jan 4, 2016

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Comments: Cojitambo has some good climbing to 5 pitches. There is a climber's hostel down and skiers right of the church. About 3/4 miles down this road. Look for a house with some climbing paraphernalia out front. I believe there is a small sign with a climbing icon across the street.

Anyway, there are good climbs, and good friendly local climbers to help. There is a guidebook at the hostel. Last charge 12$.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Lost Arrow Spire : Lost Arrow Chimney (5.10a)
By: stevecurtis When: Jun 29, 2015

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Comments: Chad recommended this route to me too. I've spent 38 years of climbing avoiding routes like this one. It will take a while for the memory to fade.
Take knee pads. Mine are a mess. The route takes more time than half dome RR. Don't let the moderate grade fool you. After pitch 7, you are half way done. A few notes. We didn't use the recommended belays on every pitch. We didn't run full pitches together either. The first few pitches are easy. Turning the roof on pitch 3 looks like a horr... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Liberty Cap : Scarface (Free) (5.12)
By: stevecurtis When: May 6, 2015

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Comments: WE enjoyed the route. Did it 1 May.

The second pitch was really wet and a slick layback
We took off a few loose blocks on the fourth, and elsewhere.
A second #4 isn't needed on pitch 7. I didn't use any #3 on the pitch either.
We used 3-4 yellow aliens and purple camalots on nearly every pitch. Three greens are also a good idea. double purple master cam. Doubles to yellow camalot, single 3 and 4. Singles on very small cams. A set of offset nuts.
We got lost on pitch 10. Here i... more >>


Location: UT : House Range : Notch Peak : Book of Saturday (5.11a R)
By: stevecurtis When: Aug 2, 2014

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Comments: I did this with John Robinson. It was a good, long day. There are a few spots with reasonably hard --10A --climbing, loose holds, injury fall. On pitch 7 or 8, there was at least 200 lbs of vertical rock ready to go, in the correct line. John knocked most of it off when he came up.

No 5.11 climbing. Be adept at easy 5.10, way over your gear, on loose rock. I was most impressed with my 70 year old partner. We swung leads the entire day. A single set of cams, maybe with two red aliens, up... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Johnson Mountain : The Force Boyle. (5.11 A0)
By: stevecurtis When: Mar 31, 2014

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Comments: Did this last week. A good route. My partner freed everything while following (we were three) He thought about 12 A.


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