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Member Since: Mar 25, 2002
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
Contact Steve Sangdahl

Point Rank: # 1,135
Total Points: 735

145 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Steve Sangdahl been climbing?










Contributions


All 592 | Routes 25 | Areas 1 | Approach Trails | Photos 94 | Page Improvements | Comments 250 | Posts 170 | Stars 39 | Ratings 13
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : No Sweat : Mongo Fury (5.10c PG13)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: 3 days ago

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Comments: For historical purposes only the first lead of this was by Barry Rugo and Arturo Reyes-Perez circa 1980 ( not 1970) Barry and Arturo were a great team , one was very bold and the other was very calculated. Pull down.


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Gill's Buttress : Slut For Punishment (5.12a)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Just to clarify where this brilliantly contrived line goes.....start just right of the first moves of Acid Rock, crimp your way up the right side of the acid rock block. If you found any large holds to use your off route. The line drawn in the guide book doesn't show the start . We also use to do the crux leftward traverse of acid rock and then reverse it and climb straight up or join Slut . lotsa contrived ness up there. Now puke.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock : That's Weak (5.10a)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Aug 26, 2017

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Comments: Greg, thanks for replacing those bolts. I don't seem to recall placing a Kong hanger, so maybe it was put on later or.... Anyway, thanks for your efforts replacing the hardware in Boulder Canyon and elsewhere. I owe you a beer or 2. Cheers.


Location: Wisconsin : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Air Spire : Chucklehead Crack (aka Spik... (5.8)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Aug 15, 2017

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Comments: James, thanks for bringing up "Spike". I knew him well during my tenure at DL. He was part of our twisted DLFA scene bitd. He had a bad accident once on the Black Ice couloir in the Tetons. I won't go into details, but he was always a little different after that....not that he wasn't a little different to begin with. Haven't heard from him in awhile but I wish him well where ever he is. Peace and club salute.Steve S.
Leo can explain why it's also known as Spikes crack.


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 07 - Railroad Tr... : 7.3 - Horse Rampart : AAA (5.12a)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Jul 3, 2017

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Comments: Yes , Old Rich Bechler told me he led this shortly after I moved to Eldo. I have a photo he sent me somewhere. I might dig it up. Cheers.


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Bill's Buttress : Russian Gadgets (5.9+ R)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Jun 5, 2017

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Comments: Burt, I think it did not have a name because it was a top rope variation that did not get done that often. I led it on a lark with Rob lemon. Let's just leave it Russian Gadgets since you have resurrected the climb from the dust bin . Thanks again.


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Bill's Buttress : Russian Gadgets (5.9+ R)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Jun 3, 2017

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Comments: Thanks for adding this. I remember leading this back in the day. Kind of a forgotten gem. I don't think we even had a name for it back then. Cheers


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Forrest Finish (5.10)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Jun 2, 2017

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Comments: Forrest finish is good, not sure why folks skip them. Maybe cause they can sometimes be wet.


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Pedestal Buttress : D.L.F.A (5.11) : Photo
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Apr 17, 2017

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Comments: This sight is quite common in Wisco!


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Face The Present (aka Bewar... (5.13c/d)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Jan 23, 2017

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Comments: Matt, thanks for clarifying the history on this. I remember some of the details but not all. Cheers.


Location: Wisconsin : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Anthrax wall : Fistful of Metal (5.8+)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Dec 6, 2016

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Comments: Jack Klien led this with me circa 1982. No name.


Location: Wisconsin : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Hell Wall (aka Quarry Wall) : Glass Balls (5.8)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Dec 1, 2016

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Comments: James, Thanks again for your efforts on this climb and making it more accessible for the community. Also hats off for your service to the Wisco climbing community. I want to thank Jay also for his part in this climb and service to the community. Hope everyone has a fun winter season with yer family and friends .Ok.....now I think I really am going to puke.


Location: Wisconsin : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Hell Wall (aka Quarry Wall) : Glass Balls (5.8)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Nov 29, 2016

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Comments: Just to clarify why I am okay with the retro bolting of this climb , not that my opinion should really matter anyway. When Jack Klien and myself did this route and others at Necedah, we had no regards for those that would climb these routes later. Hell, we had no regards for our own safety for that matter or any clue that these routes would even get repeated. Ultimately Jack and myself were just going f-ing climbing.
I was asked by 2 folks if it would be okay to add the bolts. I am okay with i... more >>


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Moldy Buttress : Fibula Cracks (5.12a)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Oct 20, 2016

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Comments: Remo, This is a great climb! I top roped it a few times and looked at the possibilities of leading it bitd.
It seemed sparsely protected given the gear we had then, and not a safe bet. Excuses, excuses.
Anyway in the spirit of such a cool route would someone else like to have a go at giving this thing a better description then my lame ass one. Administrators? Thanks.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11b)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Oct 11, 2016

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Comments: Riki, found one of your shoes. Not sure why only one, but maybe the other will turn up. I'll try pm you.


Location: Wisconsin : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Y-Crack Wall : Y-Crack (aka Old and in the... (5.10c)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Oct 8, 2016

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Comments: It should be noted for historical purposes only that as I posted above on July 29,2006 the Y-crack aka Old and in the Way was first led in 1981 by myself and Rob Lemon rip . Not 1983 as the new guide book says. When we first visited this crag in 1981 this climb stood out as" the line of kill " and was one of the first climbs I set my sights on. Had to be sent asap. Could the administrators post the date in the fa info above ? New guide book is awesome by the way. Th... more >>


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Pedestal Buttress : All The Way (5.12b/c)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Sep 26, 2016

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Comments: Clayton, that hold be fine for you to use as I believe it's not part of any other route. I seem to recall doing it the same wayJay is, probably cause it kept you closer in line with the moves when leading it.
As for Pete , he would always try and sandbag us or tell us "this" or "that" hold is off route. Just trying to keep us in our place I guess. As well that he should.....we needed to be put in our place on many a... more >>


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 07 - Railroad Tr... : 7.3 - Horse Rampart : Plethora (5.11a)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Aug 25, 2016

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Comments: Yo Adminstrator , It seems many Punters enjoy this climb as much as I did bitd. Let's see if we can scrounge someone up who can give this a more worthy description. Hopefully some hapless soul who had an epic on it or some other sordid story. We (DLFA)first heard of this climb from Pete C. He was always trying to sandbag us. I remember leading it a few times in a swami belt and eb,s and some cheap swill. I will stick with the 5.10d rating.....go figure. Thanks and good luck.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock : The Politician (5.10a)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Aug 3, 2016

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Comments: Cool to see this finally get bolted. John and I top roped this when we put up That's Weak in 1996 and even pissed on it by installing a bolt at the corner but then moved on to other stuff. The upper pitch looks good too.


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Pedestal Buttress : D.L.F.A (5.11) : Photo
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Jul 16, 2016

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Comments: Barb, that's you on the right ! Who,s the long haired hippie? Great talking to you the other nite Barb! Feel free to provide input on some of the photos. Peace and fuk-nes. Steve S.


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Jun 3, 2016

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Comments: For strictly historical purposes only, it should be noted that we (DLFA ) did some of the bouldering on the north shore back in the late 70,s and early 80,s . Mostly the stuff near the east bluff trail and elephant rock etc. These were usually done on a lark when the weather or hangovers prohibited us from or usual roped climbing escapades. I don't recall doing anything to hard, just the more obvious lines although some of this crew had been known to pull down on occasion. I am not trying to mak... more >>


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff Southeast : ... : Tombstone Direct (V5)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: May 9, 2016

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Comments: James, I am pretty sure the direct was done a very long time ago. We use to spend hours bouldering and swilling here doing every possible variation our twisted little minds could dream up and then some circa mid 70,s to early 80,s. This was before EZ showed up at the lake. And we were pretty sure most of our "brilliant" variations had already been done....think John Gill and a few other strong climbers who pulled down on these long before us. Thanks for posting the other tombstone stuff brings ... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Liquor Mart (5.11 PG13)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Apr 26, 2016

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Comments: Great route. As for the name, Chip told me after they did the FA they asked Derek what they should name it, and with out any hesitation, Derek proclaimed "Liquor Mart!" Club salute for Sheaf Stout.


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Pseudo Hawk's Nest : Bagatelle (5.12d R)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: Super solid looking! Guy makes it look like 5.8!!!! Nice video Kris. Thanks for posting it up.


Location: Wisconsin : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Dec 2, 2015

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Comments: Madisonchoss, your welcome. I like to try and keep the history accurate and provide some stories to go with some of the routes. The history and the stories can make a route come alive. Almost every first lead has some kinda story. Peace NOW PUKE


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