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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 4 days ago
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slevin
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Point Rank: # 771
Total Points: 928

13 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has slevin been climbing?










Contributions


All 508 | Routes 86 | Areas 4 | Photos 16 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 82 | Posts 219 | Stars 95 | Ratings 5
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Kiener's Route (5.4 Easy Snow)
By: slevin When: Jul 30, 2002

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Comments: I recently watched in horror as a climber parked himself at the base of Lamb's Slide to put crampons on (stopping every minute or so to crouch behind a boulder to hide from flying rocks)- and then proceeded to solo it, dodging rocks big enough to take him out the whole way up! A definite candidate for the 2002 Darwin Awards. Best to stay away from this one until it starts freezing solid at night again, then catch it at first light.

Being anywhere near the base of Lamb's Slide, North Chimney, ... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Plastic Jesus (5.11b R)
By: slevin When: May 2, 2002

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Comments: Talked with Roger about the way he went on the first ascent. He moved right at the blank-out spot, not left like I described in the comments. Either way its good climbing. -SL


Location: Colorado : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Fruita Canyon : Squeeze Box (5.9)
By: slevin When: Mar 11, 2002

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Comments: I thought this was one of the worst, most insignificant desert towers I have ever done, anywhere. Prepare to do sideways offwidth through packrat spooge on loose, soft rock. Maybe I am old and sensitive, but one star seems pretty generous. Still, if you make it a point of ticking towers, I guess you gotta do it. By the way, the tower is called The Defecating Monk. -SL


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11b)
By: slevin When: Oct 18, 2001

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Comments: Some historical tidbits: when first free climbed in the early 1970s pitch 1 was the standout crux of the route, due to the abundance of fixed pins filling up most of the finger jams. This was first led by Steve Wunsch and rated 5.10+. On the complete FFA of the route a short while later Jim Erickson, in blue suede RRs, sans chalk, stemmed the entire pitch using only a finger jam or two. Over the years the first pitch became easier and easier, as more pins fell out. By the late 1970s no fixed... more >>


Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Easy Jam (5.4)
By: slevin When: Sep 1, 2001

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Comments: Add Handjacker (5.7+) to the Intro to Wide Cracks 101 list.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Rincon (5.11a)
By: slevin When: Aug 31, 2001

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Comments: The pin at the crux has never been an A1 placement, and was not an A1 placement for the FFA way back when. As it stands now Rincon is a "safe" lead for someone able to climb 11a without falling, someone able to reverse the moves and retreat, or someone able to aid through. It is probably not a safe lead for someone pushing things and taking repeated out-of-control falls.

Eventually fixed pins will need to be replaced. If a new pin does not work in the old placement, no other gear is available,... more >>


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : Stone Monkey (5.12a)
By: slevin When: Aug 16, 2001

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Comments: One may also access the crux pitch of Stone Monkey via Three Stoners. To do this just head up and left on flakes after the 5.9 corner, aiming for the spacious ledge below the crux .12a finger crack. It is also possible, and recommended, to climb the last pitch of Obviously Four Believers (same exit pitch as Three Stoners), thus avoiding the loose blocks on the Stone Monkey exit. This is the crack system R of where you end up at the top of the .12a crack. A healthy selection of small wireds (... more >>


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