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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 20 hours ago
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slevin
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Point Rank: # 756
Total Points: 928

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 493 | Routes 86 | Areas 4 | Photos 15 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 81 | Posts 206 | Stars 95 | Ratings 5
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : West Side aka West Chimney (5.7)
By: slevin When: May 15, 2007

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Comments: The correct name for this route is "West Side", a name used since the 1967 High Over Boulder.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Bloke On The Side (5.9+ R)
By: slevin When: May 11, 2007

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Comments: Pitch two is the crux. It is to the right of the 5.8 pitch described above. Climb an overhanging shallow corner past a downward-pointed flake, up a broken R-facing corner, then left at a ledge. This pitch protects okay and is worth doing.

The 5.8 2nd pitch is a variation finish to Chick on the Side, also worth doing.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Pseudo Sidetrack (5.4 R)
By: slevin When: May 4, 2007

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Comments: The old quarter incher at the second belay has been replaced.

I don't recommend combining the lower 3 pitches as described by Leo above. Belay after a short lead at the first bolt you come to (a cam backs this up)- this will reduce the chance of getting the rope caught in the flakes one traverses left around near the start of pitch 1. Then belay at the end of the long diagonal section at the newly replaced bolt and a fixed ring angle- to minimize rope stretch in the event of a fall and to allo... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Walk the Talk (5.9+ R)
By: slevin When: May 4, 2007

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Comments: The hangerless quarter inch stud has been replaced...hanger included.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Rotwand : Kinnder Rooten (5.9- X)
By: slevin When: Apr 23, 2007

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Comments: The correct spelling is "Kinnder Rooten", FA Layton Kor and Pat Ament 1963.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : The Fever (5.9 R)
By: slevin When: Feb 24, 2007

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Comments: Tony, you'll have to show me on a photo. The photos of Mark Speiker you posted under Ignominity look like the regular third pitch.

The Rossiter-Ruwitch variation (?) described in the Falcon guide is not the line right of P3 Ignominity (i.e. the stray bolt leading to a tight right-facing corner). Dan Hare placed that bolt, and the climbing is certainly much harder than 5.10b.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : The Fever (5.9 R)
By: slevin When: Feb 24, 2007

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Comments: The climb described above sounds like pitch three of Ignominity.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Daedalus (5.5)
By: slevin When: Feb 19, 2007

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Comments: Per the 1961 Dornan guide (Eldorado's first guide):
"The Dirty Deed, Grade 5, easy.
This route starts in the chimney 150 ft. north of the Yellow Spur. Climb up the crack on the right one lead to a large ledge. Traverse right until it is possible to diagonal up a face south of a gully. The final section of this face is easiest by the south ridge. The route finishes up the Yellow Spur summit."

High Over Boulder, First Edition 1967:
"The Dirty Deed. I, 5.5. First ascent in 1959 by Charles Alexande... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Wingshot (5.11b)
By: slevin When: Jan 26, 2007

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Comments: FA Chris Reveley and John Ruger 1974. They exited the Y-slot right; see "Shot and Chaser".


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Working Class Hero (5.7)
By: slevin When: Jan 12, 2007

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Comments: This is actually a 3-pitch climb, finishing on a higher tier of rock near Highway 61.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Fine Line (5.9)
By: slevin When: Jan 12, 2007

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Comments: Zap Snack climbs Fine Line to the small ledge (FA belayed here), then moves right to climb the steep upper dihedral of Terminal Velocity. It predates both of those routes.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : Diffraction (5.10a/b)
By: slevin When: Jan 8, 2007

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Comments: The old bolt has been replaced. Thanks to Greg Hand for coming out to Eldo on such a windy day to...lend a hand.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : ... : Photo
By: slevin When: Dec 27, 2006

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Comments: Bret Ruckman.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Lightning Bolt Crack (5.8+)
By: slevin When: Dec 26, 2006

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Comments: The variation George Bell describes, a handcrack exit out the alcove above the Mail Ridge V-slot, was first done in 1980 by Jim Erickson, who rated it 5.10a and didn't name it.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Air Mail (5.10b PG13)
By: slevin When: Dec 17, 2006

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Comments: The webbing on the flake has been removed. It's easy to climb right and finish on Zip Code, then rap Pony Express.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Whatever (5.9 R)
By: slevin When: Dec 17, 2006

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Comments: There are two routes in this area from the 1980s, unreported in the current guide, and never well-described to begin with:

Office Hours 5.9
First ascent in 1982 by Carl Harrison and Sandy East.

SNFS 5.9
First ascent in 1982 by Carl Harrison and Sandy East.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Shot and Chaser (5.11b)
By: slevin When: Nov 28, 2006

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Comments: This sounds like the original line taken by Reveley and John Ruger in 1974.

Eldorado- A Climber's Route Guide (Ament) 1975: "A severely overhanging, strenuous pitch leads up a crack and right up the southern extension of a prominent, inset "Y", to the top."

Eldorado- A Rock Climber's Guide (Ament) 1980: "...a prominent "Y" formed by a crack leading through a slot to two dihedrals...taking the more difficult right (southern) extension of the Y."

Rocky Heights (Erickson) 1980: "...a severely o... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Mickey Mouse Nailup (5.9+ R)
By: slevin When: Oct 20, 2006

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Comments: A month or so ago I removed the loose block down low, so no need for heads up there.

Variation: Climb to the chimney in the big hanging flake, but climb right around the flake to a short, dirty right-facing corner (crux), then up past some blocks and a crack (Darin Lang Mar 21, 2002 variation meets here). Exit left on a slab to the rappel chains. ("Mouse Trap" 5.10a PG 0-stars, FRA David Light, Steve Levin Oct 2006). The quantity of jettisoned loose rock on our ascent suggests no climber had e... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : ... : Photo
By: slevin When: Aug 1, 2006

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Comments: This is a photograph of Finkle Finger of Eight, not Tracer.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Your Basic Lieback (5.6)
By: slevin When: Jul 27, 2006

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Comments: The large block mentioned above by Scott Edlin has been removed.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Clear the Deck (5.11a X)
By: slevin When: Jul 17, 2006

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Comments: Boulos.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : Dihedral Two (5.9)
By: slevin When: Jul 9, 2006

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Comments: FA is unknown.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : Dihedral One (5.11b V2 R)
By: slevin When: Jul 9, 2006

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Comments: The FA of this route is unknown; it's been listed in guidebooks since at least the early 1970s.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Mineral Maze (5.11d)
By: slevin When: May 26, 2006

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Comments: The second bolt has been replaced.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Water Line (5.11a)
By: slevin When: May 26, 2006

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Comments: The bolt has been recently replaced.


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