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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
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slevin
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Point Rank: # 769
Total Points: 928

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



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All 508 | Routes 86 | Areas 4 | Photos 16 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 82 | Posts 219 | Stars 95 | Ratings 5
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Mineral Maze (5.11d)
By: slevin When: May 26, 2006

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Comments: The second bolt has been replaced.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Water Line (5.11a)
By: slevin When: May 26, 2006

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Comments: The bolt has been recently replaced.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Earnest Stemmingway (5.9)
By: slevin When: May 26, 2006

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Comments: The bolt has been replaced. The original stud was a 1" split shaft quarter incher that came out with hardly any effort.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Court Jester (5.11a PG13)
By: slevin When: Mar 10, 2006

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Comments: I think the route described here, and the photos shown, are for Court Jester (rated 5.10c S in the current guide, but actually closer to .11a). Court Jester climbs directly above the "101" in the page 219 photo in the Falcon guide.

There are four lines between Sooberb and Sidewall:
(1) The first crack immediately left of Sooberb is broken, vague and somewhat unappealing, and leads into an alcove, then goes up to the slung tree on Sooberb. This is not documented in the Falcon guide, but is ca... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Court Jester (5.11a PG13)
By: slevin When: Mar 10, 2006

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Comments: Aren't these photos for Court Jester? The Human Factor takes on the red, larger right-facing corner just left of where Ivan is climbing...


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Bit by Bit (5.11c/d)
By: slevin When: Nov 1, 2004

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Comments: This is a really good route. I climbed the face directly following the bolts, rather than moving right to the arete as described above. Kudos to Dougald and Mark for putting this route up- it must have been quite an effort rigging the ropes from above.


Location: Colorado : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso...
By: slevin When: May 11, 2004

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Comments: Temperatures in late May and early June can be just fine in the Black. As an added benefit, the poison ivy is really starting to leaf out, and the ticks are in full bloom.

If it is really stinking hot, many routes don't go into the sun until late morning / early afternoon (for example Checkerboard Wall, Comic Relief area, Great White Wall area, etc.), so you can hop on these very early in the morning, and by the time the sun hits you will be too committed to do anything about it other than c... more >>


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Black Dagger (5.11a)
By: slevin When: Jul 21, 2003

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Comments: Going straight up the wide crack (with the bolt) after the Dagger pitch is good 5.10, and protects fine with just a single 4 Camalot (slide it with you). It will be exciting, but you will be OK. Unless of course you would rather sew it up. P.S. Watch getting the rope stuck at the top of the Dagger. -SL


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : The Obelisk (5.11-)
By: slevin When: Jul 21, 2003

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Comments: Brad, you are a strong lad to carry all that wide gear up there. The adventurous may consider less wide gear, since there is a crack inside the OW that accepts smaller cams. -SL


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead
By: slevin When: May 12, 2003

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Comments: There are also good arguments for bivying up at Spearhead:

1. Incredible light show on the Keyboard of the Winds each evening as the alpenglow takes over.
2. Sipping coffee from your sleeping bag in the morning as you watch the day-trippers wind their way through the willows far below.
3. Watching from 4 pitches up as a marmot tries to reach your hanging food bag- and stumbles up-side-down into the talus.
4. Excellent bouldering sessions while the soup is cooking.
5. A chance to use all that fa... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : The Wisdom (5.11d R)
By: slevin When: May 8, 2003

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Comments: A tidbit of trivia about the FFA of pitch one:

Jim Erickson: "We were all trying the first pitch, but nobody was willing to do the unprotected 5.10 move. Along came Ed (Webster) hiking up the roof routes trail. He was young, impressionable, and out to make a name for himself. So he tied in and we sent him up there. Thankfully, he got the rope up there for us."


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Serpent (5.10b R)
By: slevin When: Apr 29, 2003

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Comments: Tony- I agree there is a great deal of non-descript terrain in the upper reaches between Upper Ruper and T2. Having climbed several "exit" pitches for climbs in this vicinity, I consider most of the rock up there not really worth climbing, let alone demarcating into named "routes" or "variations". I'm sure people have wandered all over up there in past years.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Shasta (5.10- R)
By: slevin When: Apr 29, 2003

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Comments: The climb is named after my wife's golden retriever, Shasta, who as a puppy lived with an older golden retriever named Ruper, named such because his owner was benighted on Upper Ruper shortly before he got his dog. I thought it fitting that Shasta and Ruper should be side-by-side in Eldorado, a place they both enjoyed very much.


Location: Colorado : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Grand View Spire : Southwest Defile Route (5.8 C2)
By: slevin When: Feb 12, 2003

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Comments: Troy- of course you left the old register on top, right?


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Red House (5.11b R)
By: slevin When: Jan 15, 2003

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Comments: A classic Hendrix tune (like its neighbor Purple Haze), the name reflects the cluelessness of the new owners of the residence west of the Visitor Center, who tastefully painted their house fire-engine red.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Counterstroke (5.11+ R)
By: slevin When: Jan 9, 2003

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Comments: Rich- In this case all gear was placed on the lead (both Andy and I led it).

A "headpoint" lead is the culmination of toprope rehearsal, cleaning (if necessary), and gear inspection, using clean gear only (in my definition). Matt Samet does a good job presenting headpointing in the Current Features section of this site under Hound Dog Flaming- if you can stomach the thread discussion; and both Matt and Steve Dieckhoff raise some interesting justifications for using the headpoint appr... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11b)
By: slevin When: Dec 17, 2002

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Comments: The Right Side of the Folly has been shut down from rock fall for years.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Counterstroke (5.11+ R)
By: slevin When: Dec 9, 2002

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Comments: The flex flake under the roof is now gone.

After a repeat of this climb yesterday (12-8-02) I think the .12a grade may be soft.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Counterstroke (5.11+ R)
By: slevin When: Dec 4, 2002

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Comments: Andy lost the coin toss so I got to lead this first, placing all the gear, then I cleaned it and Andy led it in similar fashion.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Recovery Room : Blackout (5.12b)
By: slevin When: Oct 11, 2002

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Comments: Jim, the beta is actually Right, Left, Right, Left, Right, Left, Right, Left.


Location: Colorado : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso...
By: slevin When: Sep 30, 2002

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Comments: Using data from the Wilderness Use Permits the NPS tracks statistics for all inner canyon use (hiking, fishing, climbing, failing to climb). Besides being the law, filling out these permits allows the NPS to accurately count climber use in the inner canyon (we are by far the heaviest user group) which in turn helps our voice be heard by the Park managers.

I suspect climbers who protest the system are lazy, or consider it some vague affront to the "wild and free" Black Canyon experience of yes... more >>


Location: Colorado : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : North Chasm View Wall : Journey Home (5.10a/b)
By: slevin When: Sep 25, 2002

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Comments: OK Charles, am I that obvious? You see, my manager here at the blood works is catching on that I frig away a lot of time on this site instead of working, so he's started to monitor how often I comment....

I've led the first pitch 2 distinct ways- if memory serves me, first by going up and right after the overlap, into a peg flake/corner system (5.9 R), and second, trending up and slightly left, then following a shallow groove/corner straight up, avoiding the big corner on the right entirely (5... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Englishman's Home (5.11+)
By: slevin When: Sep 19, 2002

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Comments: If you lead this in one pitch from the ground, make sure to use long slings at the start. One idea is to clip the fixed pin and bolt on the Athlete's Feat mantle, then downclimb and unclip from the pin. Once above the mantle reach down and change the QD on the bolt to a long runner. Also, consider using long slings on the gear at the start of the crux section (added excitement), and don't protect right under the CC Crack roof. I did all this and still had some rope drag on the CC Crack crux ... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : The Untitled (5.12a)
By: slevin When: Sep 18, 2002

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Comments: Sorry for the misinformation Richard. The story I heard (which you state is incorrect) is that Jack and Bret were the first to free climb (i.e. redpoint) this line, and had named it Fuzzy Dice.

"Fuzzy Dice" is a clever and fitting name for a route on this crag. However, the name "The Untitled" should probably be reinstated now that you have clarified the route's history.


Location: Colorado : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso...
By: slevin When: Sep 18, 2002

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Comments: Just a reminder that you must sign out for ALL inner-canyon travel. It only takes a minute to go down to the North Rim ranger station and fill out a "Wilderness Use Permit" located in a box outside the building and available 24 hours a day (on the South Rim, the permit box is located outside the Visitor Center). Also, fill out the white board outside the building with your name, date and climb- this helps inform others where you will be, and allows fellow climbers to see where heavy traffic mig... more >>


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