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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 21 hours ago
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slevin
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Point Rank: # 771
Total Points: 928

13 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has slevin been climbing?










Contributions


All 508 | Routes 86 | Areas 4 | Photos 16 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 82 | Posts 219 | Stars 95 | Ratings 5
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: Old Eldo bolts

Old Eldo bolts

Forums : Fixed Hardware: Bolts & Anc... : ... : Post

Sep 19, 2014

Rock Climbing Photo: Eldo Climber's Picnic 2014

Eldo Climber's Picnic 2014

Forums : General Climbing : ... : Post

Sep 16, 2014

Rock Climbing Photo: Wayne in Eldo. Photo by Lauren di Scipio.

Wayne in Eldo. Photo by Lauren di Scipio.

Forums : Injuries and Accidents : ... : Post

Aug 10, 2014

Rock Climbing Photo: Mike out re-bolting the original Grandmother's Cha...

Mike out re-bolting the original Grandmother's Challenge mid-station. May 2012.

Forums : Colorado : ... : Post

Dec 23, 2013

Rock Climbing Photo: Bomber.

Bomber.

The People of Mountain Proj... : slevin : Trail Canyon

Oct 21, 2009

Rock Climbing Photo: No it's not Slim Pickens from Dr. Strangelove, but...

No it's not Slim Pickens from Dr. Strangelove, but Dan Hickstein riding the Vertigo Rappel tree before the trundle. Photo by Steve Levin

Colorado : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall

Jul 11, 2007

Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Notchtop : Direct South Ridge (5.9)
By: slevin When: Jun 29, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: I've climbed this route numerous times. The route finding is straightforward, as is the descent:

From the highest tarn below the South Ridge, hike the descent gully a few hundred feet, skirting left of the short steep lower buttress of the ridge, then follow an obvious Class 2 ramp 100 feet up and right to a flat staging area on the ridge.

Climb the lower-angled ridge for several hundred feet, passing low-5th Class sections, ledges, and some easier (3rd/4th Class) terrain. This can be sim... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : SE Chimney (5.5 R)
By: slevin When: Mar 16, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: The second pitch face climbing is the "R" part of this route, not the pitch one chimney.


Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Gravity's Rainbow (5.11c R)
By: slevin When: Sep 27, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Apparently sent August 2015 by friend of Strappo and Crusher with the addition of a bolt down low, with permission from FA of GR.


Location: Colorado
By: slevin When: Feb 12, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The meeting minutes from the 2-10-2014 meeting, including results from new applications, can be found here:
aceeldo.org/about/view_ace_min...
In a nutshell:
1. The route off the Upper Ramp, right of The Italian Arete was approved (note the application was amended to add 2 bolts).
2. The Exhibit A roof route was approved.
3. The Doub-Griffith Extension was approved.
4. Vote on the "Upper Meadow" (sic) route between Vertigo and To RP Or Not To Be was postponed. The Board needed mor... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Veil : Zabrina (5.10c)
By: slevin When: Apr 5, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: The bolt has been replaced.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Working Class Hero (5.7)
By: slevin When: Dec 9, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: This is pitch three of "Working Class Hero", FA Carl Harrison, Jim Stuberg, Chip Ruckgaber*, Sandy East, 1980. [Ref: Boulder New Climbs '81, p27, Alec Sharp] (*Credited in the Falcon guide, but not in Sharp.) Eds. this was submitted on a route which now is P3 of Working Class Hero.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : ... : Photo
By: slevin When: Oct 26, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: This is "Direct Start To Your Basic Lieback". The overhang left of center is the start of "Just Another Girl's Climb".


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : The Final Eviction (aka Fre... (5.13a/b)
By: slevin When: Oct 26, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: "Freeline" is the complete first pitch of the original aid route done here by Ron Olevsky in the early 1970s (A3 crux right off the ground back then). It has been reported as both the "Olevsky Route" and "Aid Line".

The first reported free ascent of pitch one was by Justen Sjong in early 2000 (pitch two was freed by Chris Reveley in the 1970s). The crux is still the first 15 feet, then a long 5.12 section to the bolt, then right into the crux of what is now Evictor.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Clean Freak (5.12a PG13)
By: slevin When: Oct 25, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: Dogpatch (5.8 R) is (was) just a short by-pass, connecting the first pitch of Crow's Landing to Auntie Perspirant, but avoiding the 5.10 R Auntie Perspirant crux. It is the arete in the P1 description. Never reported and very obscure, it's only redeeming feature was avoidance of harder shit-climbing. I would also rate the first pitch as described 5.10-.

Good job on the corner, been looking at that a long time!


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Phee-nix (5.12b R)
By: slevin When: Oct 24, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: From talking with a few people who have done this, Phee Nix does not step in from Flakey Floont on the right, but begins with the boulder problem start described above, i.e. you climb directly into the corner from below (good hold for right, reach left to OK hold, reach right high to sloper, shallow pocket, better pocket, bucket). I still need to ask Mike Brooks (FA) about it, but I know David Light led the bouldery start in the late 1980s after he worked it on TR a bit. On toprope this felt lik... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Wishbone (5.11b/c PG13)
By: slevin When: Oct 16, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: The FHRC process for approving/rejecting bolted new route proposals includes a period for input from the climbing community. Please take the time to personally review new route and/or anchor proposals during this period, and make your opinions known.

The FHRC process is only made better with more climber input. It's extra work for you, but not nearly as much work as the climber who susses a new line, puts forth a proposal, goes through the voting, gets a permit from Steve M., installs the li... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Superspar (5.11-)
By: slevin When: Sep 18, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: Chris- the 5.9+ corner is the top of the Poached Eggs pitch.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Apple Strudel (5.12a)
By: slevin When: Sep 3, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: According to High Over Boulder, 1970: "Via a very thin flake, reach a bolt 15-20 feet up, and continue nailing upward. etc."


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Icarus (5.6 R)
By: slevin When: Aug 26, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: Ament's 1975 Eldorado guide documents this as a variation to The Yellow Spur, first climbed by Bob Culp in the 1960s. According to Jim Erickson, this was (and one assumes, still is) one of Culp's favorite climbs in the canyon; indeed it was the first route Jim ever climbed with Culp, sometime around 1968 (personal communication).


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Upper Peanuts : Upstairs (5.8)
By: slevin When: Aug 12, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: This is Upstairs, FA Larry Dalke and Bill Chase, 1965.

According to Jim Erickson in Rocky Heights 1980:
"Upstairs 5.6. This wanders up the right margin of the upper wall (i.e. Upper Peanuts), into a prominent dihedral."

It is the most-obvious and cleanest line on the entire formation, and considering the compressed ratings of the day, it is easy to conclude this is Dalke's route.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Anarchitect (5.12d)
By: slevin When: Jul 20, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: Just wanted to say this is one of the best sport routes on the Front Range and thanks to Alan for his time, effort and $$$ establishing it for us to enjoy.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Continental Crag : Plate Tectonics (5.9)
By: slevin When: Jul 17, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: Removed the flake today. Another Top Ten Trundle.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Star Track (5.8)
By: slevin When: Jul 15, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: The interesting line Leo mentions has been led. See "Do or Do Not".


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP
By: slevin When: Jul 11, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: We removed the tree this morning. Thanks to Dan Hickstein for joining me, and the Eldo trail crew for monitoring the trails..and shooting a short video clip. I'll try to post the video soon. Top Ten trundle, for sure!


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