Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community


Member Since: May 3, 2004
Last Visit: Feb 18, 2016
Contact steve edwards

Point Rank: # 927
Total Points: 875
Last Year: 324
Last 30 Days: 0
5 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has steve edwards been climbing?










Contributions


All 593 | Routes 47 | Areas 8 | Photos 14 | Page Improvements | Comments 214 | Posts 151 | Stars 148 | Ratings 11
Page 1 of 9.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Grandeur Peak : Reef : Unknown (5.9-)
By: steve edwards When: Feb 10, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Pretty sure they want you to climb the face, which makes this solid 5.10. As noted, the crux of what you're describing is before you've clipped any bolts, and no one would purposefully set-up a route that way.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Millcreek Canyon : Church Fork Wall : The Dark Crystal (5.12b)
By: steve edwards When: Feb 10, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Birthday Challenge failure, where this was to be the first of five FAs in a day. Umm, yeah.



Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Millcreek Canyon : Church Fork Wall : The Dark Crystal (5.12b)
By: steve edwards When: Feb 10, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Left side of the crag, head up the steepest section of rock. Anchor is two fixed draws, since it went up in winter (sun all AM) and the top was wet. Above this is a no hands and then some 5.10, so it could go to the top but it wouldn't add much.

Pretty burly climbing, with slopey moves low, followed by some hard pulls, and then hanging in on diminishing crimps. Feels longer than it is.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hell Area : Hell Wall
By: steve edwards When: Feb 10, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The High-water Traverse is good on it's own but also used to add length and difficulty to the routes on the right side of Hell.





Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : S-Curves : The G-Spot
By: steve edwards When: Feb 9, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: No doubt. Edge of your seat cinema from the get go.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : S-Curves : The G-Spot
By: steve edwards When: Feb 9, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Here's a little lunacy, trying to squeeze every move I could out of the wall.





Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : S-Curves : The G-Spot
By: steve edwards When: Feb 9, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This is the two halves, without the longer start.




Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Millcreek Canyon : The Stitches Wall
By: steve edwards When: Feb 6, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: During cancer treatment, I cleaned this place up and made it somewhere I could get some exercise by myself, probably exhausting its potential beyond any sort of rationale. The base is still loose but the rock on the routes is actually decent. Hopefully it'll be worth it to someone other than my chemo brain.


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : Mill Canyon : Mill Canyon West
By: steve edwards When: Feb 5, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This is always going to be a "how you find it" crag. Fun, though, and more traffic can only help. Very nice hang, too.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Choss Garden : Garden Party (5.11a)
By: steve edwards When: Feb 5, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Nice work!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Choss Garden : Nettle (5.11)
By: steve edwards When: Feb 5, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Agree but the chains should be replaced. Very rusty.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Choss Garden : Mellow Gold (5.12b)
By: steve edwards When: Feb 5, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Agree with the upgrade. This route was always stout at 12a. For me, Benefactor is easier.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Choss Garden : The Benefactor (5.12b)
By: steve edwards When: Feb 5, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks for the upgrades. Definitely needed. Great route.


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : Mill Canyon : Mill Canyon West
By: steve edwards When: Feb 5, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Good wall but takes some getting used to. The warm-up is terrible. We warm-up on the third, I think, line that is quality, maybe skipping the initial pulls and do the top. Route with the fixed draws I thought was 13a, but 12b if you use one draw as a hold and a great training route. Scary route on right side is quite good once it's set up. Maybe adding a bolt is a good idea. The 12a/b (b I think) is kind of the classic of the crag. Really good. This is a very sunny place. I've climbed here when ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Choss Garden : Daisy (5.10)
By: steve edwards When: Feb 5, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Got permission from Andy and added the extension. Was supposed to get a different anchor. I have it if you want to put it in. Forces you to clip from the jugs on top and not clip before the move. Great warm-up. Super steep and fun, and allows you to hang draws on all of the right routes.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Choss Garden : The Bridge to Total Freedom (5.12a)
By: steve edwards When: Feb 5, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Meant to add an anchor but Mick started ultra running and I adopted two cattle dogs, effectively ending my run as "mayor". You can reach over and clip the Mellow Gold anchors, so this was never a safely issue.

As I told Boissal, fix anything. Glue, whatever. Just keep the routes nice. This cliff will continue to exfoliate. It's the nature of the "choss garden", but worth a little effort for such nice climbing.

Splitting hairs on where to go. We had a couple of sequences. One harder, one scar... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Choss Garden : Pitbulls on Crack (5.12a)
By: steve edwards When: Feb 5, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This route hadn't seen an ascent in years so I added chains and an anchor to keep it safe, since the first couple of bolts are on sketchy rock with hard clips. This greatly increased its popularity. It still needs a new anchor, just because the bolts are old. The fixed pin could blow and you'll be safe but, ya know, could be modernized.

I also used this to warm-up for BD, and it's a super fun, jug fest. The chains were just to get folks on it, and make things convenient for me as well (althoug... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Choss Garden
By: steve edwards When: Feb 5, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: As the once-dubbed "mayor" of the crag, I'll weigh in a bit. I think this means you're the only one who climbs here, which was the case for a few years. I'll add bits for each route but, when we put the chains on, it was to facilitate climbing on the left side so that you didn't need to walk the ramp when other people were climbing. Not that they were too often.

In winter, this wall is hot. You can climb here, if it's not seeping, until temps are in the teens.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Crag Full of Dynamite : The Ecstacy of Gold (5.8)
By: steve edwards When: Nov 4, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Probably worth noting that I bolted this, and thus the crag, when I saw this line with a thin layer of ice on it one winter and thought that might be fun to try. Turns out it was okay as a rock climb. Some guy I brought here once said "why would you bolt this?" Wasn't the last time I heard that line.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Potter's Point : Ms. T (5.8)
By: steve edwards When: Feb 5, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This is very common in SB, especially places with softer rock like Potter's, but routes need maintenance everywhere and these routes are 20 years old. Keep in mind the bolts are 1/2X4, so there is very little (like impossible) chance of them coming out as you lower off, even if they become completely disengaged and spin freely. A simple stud in a hole that deep would be safe, and there are two--of course knowing this didn't help me feel very safe rapping off one spinning carrot bolt in Australia... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Painted Cave : ... : Break on Through (V9)
By: steve edwards When: Feb 1, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Wills' beta is insane if you're tall. Granted, I'm not the strongest or most flexible person on the planet but getting your foot that close to your hands using those holds was something that was never going to happen for me, no matter how much Bikram I could stomach.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Watch the Dog (V4-5)
By: steve edwards When: Jan 3, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Vid brings back old memories of roaming around out there alone and finding these things and being shocked if ever I'd see anyone, so I had that reaction to seeing other people in the background. Me, Perlin, and Jason Houston spent years trying to get people psyched on the yard but no one ever wanted to go out , at least until Bob moved to town. Watch the Dog was just me and a brush (no pads yet). It might have been years until I found someone to go out and do it with me.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Hai Karate (5.12d)
By: steve edwards When: Nov 18, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Although, as Ben Moon said, if you can't do the moves then there's nothing to endure. The crux is this is pretty damn hard. Or used to be.

But I only popped in here to comment that this route showed up as a highlighted classic here on Mountain Project. Jesus Christ, the one it took the place of was a classic Spanish limestone masterpiece. I mean, I'm sure Phil's further cleaning was magnificent but, um, still. Inverted sandbox or Oliana? All 4 star routes are not created equal. Now wondering i... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : The Old Pro Skill (5.12d)
By: steve edwards When: Nov 4, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Sounds like somebody's using the old pro skill on him and my man's fallin' for it.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - South Face : My Idea of Fun (5.12d PG13)
By: steve edwards When: Oct 31, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The story I heard, from either Thaw or the Fish, was that Bourne called it 14c, making it arguably the hardest route in the world at the time (Hubble and AD had yet to be upgraded), and went on local TV to claim the world's hardest route was in Josh. Myles on sighted the second ascent, confirming the c but slashing two numbers off the 14.


Page 1 of 9.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>