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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 43 mins ago
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Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Steve "Crusher" Bartlett been climbing?










Steve "Crusher" Bartlett

 
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All 742 | Routes 59 | Areas 25 | Approach Trails | Photos 356 | Page Improvements | Comments 170 | Posts 43 | Stars 84 | Ratings 5
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : The Nose (5.9 C2) : Photo
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Aug 31, 2017

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Comments: Don't really recall exactly why I put this here. Lynn and I were presenting a joint slideshow at this time in support of SUWA, Southern Utah Wilderness Alliance. Something to do with promoting this show. I could delete this(?). Maybe I should?

Eds. It's moved to The Nose.


Location: Wyoming : Eastern Big Horns : Highway 14 Pinnacles : Coyote Rocks : Superpecker (5.8+)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Jul 9, 2017

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Comments: Enjoyed this! Pin still there, looks poor but there's a bomber nut a little higher. Then, good gear the whole way. The rock is fine, as long as one is careful not to stray from the best line.


Location: Colorado : 10 Mile Canyon : Officer's Gulch West : Notches (5.7+)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Jun 28, 2017

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Comments: Many loose holds. So-so.


Location: Colorado : 10 Mile Canyon : Officer's Gulch West : Simul I (5.9)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Jun 28, 2017

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Comments: Great climb! Mossy ledge is long gone, all is clean and solid.


Location: Utah : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Viewfinder Towers : Johnny Hanksville of Mars (5.11a)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Jan 14, 2017

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Comments: Amazing pics of the blown bolt-hole, Cole. Quite the exfoliating plate of rock! Took some pics in 2015.
Rock Climbing Photo: 2015, spring. Bolt was fine then.
2015, spring. Bolt was fine then.


I'm guessing this is the same bolt, obvious in this photo, with the, ahem, nice crack just left. No sign of bolt-related fractures two years ago. What happened? I've seen bolts with fractures like this on rounded, exposed aretes in Cutler sandstone, presumably from freeze-thaw action, but this is more flat, though equally soft rock. May... more >>


Location: Utah : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Long Dong Silver Area : Angel of Death (A3)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Jan 6, 2017

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Comments: Where to begin...
1. I eyed this tower up about decade ago. I decided to leave it be. There's a calculation of enjoyment versus impact and effort. The enjoyment would be limited (it's not very tall, there was no appealing line) yet it was obvious challenge. Impact on such a small tower would be easier to see than on a larger formation (from piton scars, fixed anchor on top, etc). Enjoyed walking around it. Enjoyed the temporary beauty; like admi... more >>


Location: Idaho : Central Idaho : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Myopia (5.11a) : Photo
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Nov 12, 2016

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Comments: Thanks Chris Mutzel, you are correct. This IS a photo of Astro Elephant, but it seems we started in the wrong place. The correct start is about 25 feet left of this photo. The photo below show the location of the correct start, and where the climber is in my photo. Sorry for the mix up.

I'm happy to delete this. (It could also be moved to Astro Elephant with caption to say that this photo is ~25 foot right of the regular start.) I can't delete this myself... more >>


Location: Utah : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Viewfinder Towers : Power Chords (5.9 C1-2)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Oct 25, 2016

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Comments: Nice work! I never thought there would be a second route on this formation. Happy to see more people embracing the choss!

I think I screwed up the database here when I entered this, sorry. I intended the tower to be named Strummer and I should have made the tower an area, not a route. The route we did we actually intended named Career Opportunities, for what it's worth.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Oracle : Fantasia (5.10- C2+ R) : Photo
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Sep 22, 2016

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Comments: As best I recall, we climbed the whole section on the right (east) side, with a diversion onto the top (which went nowhere except back down again). Last section was a bit dicey, tensioning to a final, nice, diagonal crack that dumped us out on the big ledge overlooking the chimney/chasm. Kinda hazy now through. We fixed ropes on the left as this was more slabby and it made more sense, so some of my photos are taken from this side as we went up and down our ropes (this was long before there was a... more >>


Location: Colorado : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : Middle Fork of St. Vrain Ca... : Piz Badille : ... : Photo
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Aug 28, 2016

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Comments: Looks exactly what we did yesterday and what I've usually done for P1. Currently there's a knifeblade piton at the overlap (just where there's a white dot against black) and a couple dots above is a welcome jug that looks solid but moved and almost came off.


Location: Wyoming : Laramie Range : Laramie Peak Wildlife Habit... : Kennedy Ranch Rocks : the Meadow Mound : Tiger Woods Me on Tiger Roc... (5.8)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Aug 23, 2016

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Comments: Nice climb, takes the steeper and best rock hereabouts. More like 5.9+ for the bulge near the top, just before joining the other route. Shares last couple bolts and anchor (rap hangers) with route to the right. Red line in photo goes too far up the cliff.


Location: Wyoming : Laramie Range : Laramie Peak Wildlife Habit... : Kennedy Ranch Rocks : the Meadow Mound : A Lube Job on Tiger Rock (5.8)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Aug 23, 2016

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Comments: This has a different name in the guidebook. Rating here, 5.8 is about right. Fun climbing (though the crux and best bit is part of the route just left, they join for the last couple bolts). The red line is in the right place but goes farther up the cliff, beyond where the the rap hangers are encountered. Anchor is shared with next route to the left.


Location: Wyoming : Laramie Range : Laramie Peak Wildlife Habit... : Kennedy Ranch Rocks : the Meadow Mound : A Blast from the Past (5.8)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Aug 23, 2016

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Comments: Fun route! Beware lowering,the geometry is strange, it's easy to be sucked rightward you go down the slabby face, but a slip can suck one left, around the arete ending with a hard impact into the dihedral.


Location: Wyoming : Laramie Range : Laramie Peak Wildlife Habit... : Kennedy Ranch Rocks : the Meadow Mound : Revert to a Pervert (5.9)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Aug 23, 2016

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Comments: Referred to as Arpanet in the guidebook. Straightforward (5.6-ish) with obvious step right to finish. Direct finish seemed contrived.


Location: Utah : Burr Trail / Long Canyon
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Aug 2, 2016

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Comments: Link to the relevant page of the BLM website quoted by Darren above:

blm.gov/ut/st/en/fo/grand_stai...

Now I look at this, it appears they have an ambitious WSA designation plan, covering large swaths of the monument. If so, this sucks in view of the restrictive climbing policy; there's areas that appear to fall into their WSA zoning that are utterly trashed by cows, tumbleweed hell. Maybe I'm rea... more >>


Location: Idaho : Central Idaho : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Myopia (5.11a) : Photo
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Jul 7, 2016

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Comments: Thanks Mike! Fast work! I just sent messages to dave and Mike asking for them to delete their comments so I can more the photo, but sounds like you are way ahead of me, thanks.


Location: Idaho : Central Idaho : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Myopia (5.11a) : Photo
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Jul 7, 2016

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Comments: Whoops, you are right, I think it's actually Myopia. I'll move this. Thanks dave and Mike!

Hmm, the site won't let me delete this. I think maybe because it has comments attached.


Location: Wyoming : Laramie Range : Laramie Peak Wildlife Habit... : Douthitt Mountain : Stuffed Valley : Blunt Aawareness (5.8+)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Jun 26, 2016

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Comments: Not dirty, nice climbing, edges, side pulls on fine rock. Nicer than Poverty Trap. Getting off ground seemed crux.


Location: Wyoming : Laramie Range : Laramie Peak Wildlife Habit... : Douthitt Mountain : Stuffed Valley : Douhitt Flow (5.10b)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Jun 26, 2016

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Comments: Excellent. I think more like 8 bolts. Crux is probably getting past the first couple. This would be a classic anywhere, superb moves, great variety, wonderful rock.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Oracle : Beaking In Tongues (5.8 A4)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Feb 10, 2016

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Comments: Looks like the Supertopo trip report's gone.
Trip report from the first ascent:
deserttowersbook.com/node/20


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : First Pullout : Ultraman Wall : Scent of the Ultraman (5.7)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Dec 27, 2015

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Comments: Really fun climb. Except for the chipped holds. Someone VERY recently (still lots of dust around) did some of the most heinous chipping I've ever seen in almost 40 years of climbing. On a 5.7? WTF? Appears to be done with a power drill, from the messy peck marks around the chiseled holds.

Some bolts on this route appeared to be very new, so same drill may have placed (replaced?) these and chiseled holds at the same time?


Location: Utah : Grand Staircase : Cannonville Area : The Colossus of Cannonville
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Dec 27, 2015

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Comments: Thank you, Access Fund: "The best maps we found showed a boundary going straight north-south though the formation. West side is GSENM, East side looks to be private (a ranch-house is visible from the summit). From the southern tip, a fence line heads south, supporting this conclusion."

Yes, before we started climbing this formation, we checked in with the rangers at GSENM and Kodachrome Basin. We made sure to keep ourselves and the route we did on the west side. There is a square parcel of land... more >>


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Nov 23, 2015

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Comments: Late November 2015: Anyone rapping from to of Castleton, be sure to use the correct rap anchor. The recent high-line between Castleton and Rectory utilized new bolts near the edge of the summit. These are new, massive, about 3/4-inch diameter, not really equipped for rope retrieval, and a rappel from them will leave you stranded (yes, there was a rescue last night due to someone making this mistake). The correct anchor down the north face, has 1/2-inch bolts, hangers and lots of chains.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : River Road : Dewey Bridge : Loathing- Less Clothing (5.7 C1)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Nov 22, 2015

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Comments: Climbed the south tower, Fear, today. Placed just one piton, a large (and bomber) BD Pecker at the top. Nuts, RPs and cams for the rest, not too difficult. Maybe I'll create a separate page.


Location: Arizona : Northern Arizona : Navajolands : Cleopatra's Needle Area
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Oct 11, 2015

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Comments: The East Face of Cleos, the West Face of Venus Needle, the West Buttress of Navajo Needle (the classic routes on each of these three towers) all go free. No pitons needed.
1. Cleos, (via the original direct line) is about C2 or C2+, bring LOTS of med-large stoppers (some may be hard to clean).
2. Venus Needle West Face C2, crux leaving the first belay with awkward stemming and/or awkward big cams;
3. Navajo Needle West Face C2. One or two thin crack sections now have pin scars that tak... more >>


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