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Member Since: Sep 14, 2007
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 3,598
Total Points: 200

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Steve Blevins been climbing?










Contributions


All 184 | Routes 7 | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos 26 | Page Improvements | Comments 16 | Posts 45 | Stars 56 | Ratings 34

Contributed Comments

 

Location: California > Southern Sierra > Shuteye Ridge > Gray Eagle > Great Depression > Wing Feather (5.8)
By: Steve Blevins When: Oct 9, 2017

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Comments: Fabulous climb. I found the 5.6 last pitch equal in excitement and challenge to the other pitches.

There is a trick to doing the bouldery move to the bolt on P3. It goes at 5.8 for shorter climbers if you can figure the tick out or if you are really tall.

For us rapping off was equal in challenge to the climb. Thank goodness for the cairns marking the way to the 1st rap from the true summit. I would describe the landing as a 'gully with some brush'. As you walk climber's left looki... more >>


Location: California > Southern Sierra > Shuteye Ridge > Milky Way Wall > Crossing the Milky Way (5.8)
By: Steve Blevins When: Aug 10, 2017

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Comments: Both my partner and I found having nuts on the rack valuable on lower pitches.

The guidebook trail marking for access to the starting ledge is ... not the best way to go, added 1hr to our approach. If you just continue with the ledge system from semi-cave/overhang where one would would want to stash their packs, it is MUCH easier and faster. Slight short bushwhacking in a couple of places (way much less than if you try to access from below), just keep pushing to climber's right finishing wi... more >>


Location: California > Southern Sierra > Shuteye Ridge > Milky Way Wall
By: Steve Blevins When: Aug 10, 2017

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Comments: 7S02H has become heavily overgrown. Keep walking through the growth as long as you can imagine that there is a fire road underneath. Keep your eye open for a trail on your left and you will quickly come to a tall stump with a cairn on top.
Shortly after trail finding difficulties begin in earnest. Hopefully a bit easier now, see if you can see hints of a trail under the growth. I pulled out what I could by hand, will bring something to prune next time. Once out of the undergrowth, there are stil... more >>


Location: New York > The Gunks > The Trapps > g. V3 - Middle Earth > V-3 (5.7)
By: Steve Blevins When: Jun 21, 2017

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Comments: One of the neatest pitches of any grade I have ever done!


Location: New York > The Gunks > The Trapps > a2. The Uberfall - right > Laurel (5.7)
By: Steve Blevins When: Apr 17, 2015

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Comments: The 'bouldery' moves seemed to go OK using 5.9 techniques. I thrashed and thrashed and finally had to take trying to make it go anywhere near 5.7. Perhaps back in the day the foot holds were not so polished.


Location: California > Southern Sierra > Courtright Reservoir > Leopold Dome > Little Leopold (5.10c)
By: Steve Blevins When: Sep 16, 2013

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Comments: Upon reflection, P1 should probably get an R rating. P2 starts with a tough 5.9ish move, continuous 5.8 after. If you are not a strong 5.10+ leader like Brian, you are going to want more big stuff for the flake to lower your stress levels. A 2nd blue and gray would greatly increase the safety of the sustained 5.9 odd crack. 4th pitch takes 200'+ to make it to a belay tree. Exit the left facing corner system to the left to a good, short 5.8 crack and then follow the crack/groove system to the tre... more >>


Location: The People of Mountain Proj... > alpinista83 > Other Notable Favorites > Photo
By: Steve Blevins When: Jun 8, 2013

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Comments: There's better (multi-pitch trad) granite east of the Mississippi? In the world?


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Yosemite Valley > El Capitan > Base Routes > La Cosita, Right (5.9)
By: Steve Blevins When: Sep 16, 2012

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Comments: I was baffled by all the 5.9 rates of this climb. Not 5.9+, just run of the mill 5.9. I can see why the 5.11 and 5.12 leaders thought this was 5.9. Most of the raters do not give their ability and whether they lead this climb, onsight or otherwise. I really don't care what number you give this route, it is what it is, and 5.9 routes like this are not uncommon in my limited Yose experience. In fact most areas have climbs like this, usually with the dreaded + designation. But there will be extreme... more >>


Location: The People of Mountain Proj... > Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiG... > 2011-2013 Junk > Photo
By: Steve Blevins When: Jul 10, 2012

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Comments: This is one of the coolest pictures ever. The look on her face (and she seems to be a pretty mellow female otherwise) and the casualness of John are beyond Mona Lisa and American Gothic to me.


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Big Cottonwood Canyon > Storm Mountain Picnic Area > Storm Mountain Island > Goodro's Wall (5.10c)
By: Steve Blevins When: Jun 16, 2011

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Comments: I have done this climb maybe 6 times over the last 25 years, never lead it. Last year lead it poorly because of poor cam placement. Talked w/Andy at IME, he suggested nuts. Of course! Made a huge difference today.

On lead I discovered a little easier way to top out moving left. I normally finished fairly straight up, moving slightly right, which might be the basis for the 10b/c rating. For most of the years I did it. it was rated 5.9+. I think objectively, no move is harder than 5.9 (with possi... more >>


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Gate Buttress > Schoolroom Area > The Hook Direct (5.10c R)
By: Steve Blevins When: Jun 5, 2011

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Comments: I have done this climb numerous times over the last 20 years. I have repeated it 3 times in the last year or so and was struck with how difficult it seemed. I did it 6-4-11 (yesterday) after an excellent season in RR and feeling comfortable in LCC.

In previous years I never even slipped. I have always thought of it as 5.10a. I slipped once and fell once. It has simply weathered off most of the dime and quarter edges that used to be available. 5.10c R is a fair rating.


Location: The People of Mountain Proj... > ClimberSuz > Summit Pose > Photo
By: Steve Blevins When: Sep 7, 2009

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Comments: Wow! How flexible! Now if you could just prove it is you. Steve


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Black Velvet Canyon > Whiskey Peak > Frogland (5.8)
By: Steve Blevins When: Apr 18, 2009

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Comments: All right, here's the skinny. Climbed Frogland today, I lead first 3 pitches, my partner, Marc Jenson the last. He climbed it some years ago, on sight for me. We used my 60m rope.

Pitch 1: I climbed to a good flat ledge with fixed cam. On the wall to the climber's right were 2 bolts wo/ hangers. above was a rock marked in chalk with 2 x's (Is this where the beer gets its name?) Partner had to simulclimb ~10' to the next ledge.

Pitch 2: Climbed to below roof on large ledge. Protection possibil... more >>


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Pine Creek Canyon > Mescalito > Black Widow Hollow (5.9)
By: Steve Blevins When: Apr 4, 2009

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Comments: As stated, highly physical. I enjoyed immensely but would not do it again. Leading 2nd pitch, quality of many of the holds at critical points suspect. I found myself trying to distribute my pull between holds to lower chance of disaster. The crux chimney really suckers you off course. Harder and less protected than E. Steve


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Pine Creek Canyon > Brass Wall > Varnishing Point (5.8+)
By: Steve Blevins When: Mar 28, 2009

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Comments: Maybe I missed a hold, but the crux moves are as hard as any 5.9 I've done. I had to really crank into the lieback because the patina is so slick my foot popped off with a comfortable lieback start. I found nearby Topless Twins a comfortable 5.9.


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Black Velvet Canyon > Whiskey Peak - East > Schaeffer's Delight (5.7)
By: Steve Blevins When: Mar 28, 2009

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Comments: Climbed this route today. Very very nice. Sun 'till noon. You can climb the 2nd and 3rd pitches on a 60m rope if you belay from the 1st large ledge above the book. We did the 2 additional pitches above, they looked inviting compared to the scrub filled gully. They were ok to poor, detracted from the classic pitches below.


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