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Member Since: Aug 8, 2002
Last Visit: 16 hours ago
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Steve Annecone
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Total Points: 555

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 401 | Routes 37 | Areas 1 | Approach Trails | Photos 34 | Page Improvements | Comments 120 | Posts 8 | Stars 139 | Ratings 62
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > North > Third Flatiron > Feathers and Stone (5.11b)
By: Steve Annecone When: Jan 7, 2018

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Comments: Wow, really good route, with loads of 5.11 climbing and some thought-provoking sequences! Nicely done!


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Blob Rock Area > Blob Rock > ... > Photo
By: Steve Annecone When: Dec 13, 2017

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Comments: Nice job, thanks!


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > South > The Slab > Sump Pump (5.11+)
By: Steve Annecone When: Oct 24, 2017

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Comments: This pitch links nicely with the second pitch of Prime the Pump with careful draw and sling management. Using longer quick draws for bolts 3, 4, and 5 on Sump Pump, followed by an extended sling on the 1st and 5th bolts of upper Prime the Pump (and more longish quickdraws up there) really helps. We did this with a 9.2 mm rope today and rope drag wasn't too bad. It might be one of the longer pitches up there when doing this link-up (maybe call it "Prime the Sump Pump"?), at about 1... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > Central > Red Devil > Paradise Lost (5.9)
By: Steve Annecone When: Oct 23, 2017

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Comments: The 3rd bolt was tightened up yesterday and is now bomber.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > South > The Matron > East Ridge (5.5)
By: Steve Annecone When: Oct 10, 2017

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Comments: The first pitch always feels more like 5.7 or 5.8 R to me, and I wonder how many beginning climbers get brutally sandbagged on this? The density of pin scars suggests many folks have aid-climbed through the crux traverse section in the past. Really fun moves pulling over the roof and on to the east face!


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > South > The Goose > Raging Bull (aka Cub) (5.11a/b)
By: Steve Annecone When: Oct 1, 2017

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Comments: All 8 bolts were replaced on the first pitch yesterday with 1/2-inch stainless hardware. Four out of the 7 bolts on the second pitch were replaced, and the remaining three bolts will be upgraded soon. Both anchors were also upgraded with new stainless steel hardware.

That second pitch doesn't look climbed much and still has a few friable flakes here and there.... I'd suggest bringing some 1-inch gear to protect the section getting to the first bolt and then perhaps small wires to protec... more >>


Location: Colorado > South Platte > West Creek > Thunder Ridge > The Quarry > 5.8, My Ass (5.9- PG13)
By: Steve Annecone When: Sep 18, 2017

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Comments: Crazy high first clip, and even if stick-clipped, there's a good chance of hitting the ground if you blow the second clip. This rig felt like 5.10 R, even after getting in the groove of the slabby climbs in this area. I'm not against spicy pitches, especially if established ground up, but 5.9 climbers should be warned here. The Haas guidebook seems to use PG-13 and R ratings rarely, only in the most severe cases.


Location: Colorado > South Platte > West Creek > Thunder Ridge > Metaphysical Wall > Crystal Ball (5.9+)
By: Steve Annecone When: Sep 18, 2017

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Comments: This pitch seems unnecessarily dangerous in the section leaving the wide crack and moving up and left to the seam. There's no gear other than a wide cam down by your feet and then thin, heads-up moves right off the bat, with any falls definitely resulting in hitting a big sloping ramp. While I respect the ground up ethic here, I'm curious why a bolt wasn't placed in this section from the good stances that exist there? Maybe I missed an easier sequence...?


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > Central > The Box > Fact of a Door Frame (5.11b/c R)
By: Steve Annecone When: Sep 13, 2017

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Comments: This route seems way harder than 5.11b/c. Wonder if a hold broke off somewhere... anyone done this recently?


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > Central > The Box > Aunt Jennifer's Tigers (5.10d)
By: Steve Annecone When: Sep 13, 2017

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Comments: This route is a bit scary, with a low first bolt above the starting ledge and hard 5.10 moves straight away, setting one up for a ledgefall pretty quickly. The first bolt is a spinner too. After getting to the crack above the 2nd bolt, the climb gets quite lichenous and scaly.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > The Bastille > The Bastille - N Face > ... > Photo
By: Steve Annecone When: Jul 14, 2017

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Comments: I always put an offset Alien right there (I think a red-yellow), and it seems as good or better than the tricam.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > Central > Finger Flatiron > Northwest Corner (5.8+)
By: Steve Annecone When: Jun 12, 2017

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Comments: Correction to the above post... Northwest Corner is the LEFT-most (east) of the two cracks, to the east of Right Crack.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > South > Seal Rock
By: Steve Annecone When: Apr 25, 2017

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Comments: Nolan, yes, there is viable access. Check out this FCC link: flatironsclimbing.org/temporar...


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > South > The Maiden > Kor-Dalke Route (5.12a R)
By: Steve Annecone When: Mar 1, 2017

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Comments: Greg, every time I go up there I contemplate that wild route and wonder the same thing, has it been repeated?! I doubt it. I'm curious, did you establish it ground up? Pretty awesome achievement regardless of style.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Blob Rock Area > Blob Rock > ... > Charisma (5.11a)
By: Steve Annecone When: Jan 31, 2017

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Comments: Reading the past comments... not so dirty now, most of the friable stuff has cleaned up. Still a bit of lichen here and there, but the quality climbing makes up for it.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > Central > Skunk Canyon > ... > Photo
By: Steve Annecone When: Sep 25, 2016

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Comments: Is that actually a galvanized roofing nail?


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > The Sport Park > Surprising Crag > ... > Amber (5.11+ PG13)
By: Steve Annecone When: Sep 10, 2016

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Comments: Felt sustained and technical, similar to Mercy Drilling to the right, but harder!


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Vampire Rock > The Politician (5.10a)
By: Steve Annecone When: Aug 16, 2016

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Comments: Yo Patrick, feel free to clean said loose rock when on routes like this. Better to pull it out and clean it up than to leave a time bomb for someone else.


Location: Photo
By: Steve Annecone When: Aug 13, 2016

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Comments: Yikes, pretty nasty! Thanks for the community service.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Vampire Rock > The Politician (5.10a)
By: Steve Annecone When: Aug 1, 2016

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Comments: Nice route. A little easier than That's Weak but still probably 10a. A 60-meter definitely works fine.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Lower Dream Canyon > Wall of Winter Warmth > Angle of Repose (5.11d)
By: Steve Annecone When: Jun 19, 2016

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Comments: In contrast to the comment by J. Albers above, I suspect that most local climbers are NOT at all in agreement with bolting next to established lines, and especially run out classics like Left Side. Actions like this are generally considered tasteless and not OK.

Many routes done in Boulder Canyon are offensive to many climbers, including bolting next to excellent cracks or other good natural protection, bolting too close to established lines, and chipping and gluing holds. Fortunately, place... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > South > The Maiden > Hasta La Hueco (5.12d)
By: Steve Annecone When: Jun 9, 2016

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Comments: Kudos to Phil Gruber and Lynn Hill who recently sent a linkup of pitches 2 and 3! They were able to belay at the Stone Oven belay and lower back with an 80m rope. If you have a 70m rope, you could belay from same nice ledge, lower to top of 2nd pitch, then rap or lower from there back to the belay.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > South > Seal Rock > The Gruffalo (5.11a)
By: Steve Annecone When: Mar 23, 2016

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Comments: Nice job, Mark and Paul! Climbed this yesterday and thought it was excellent, with interesting moves, a bit of pump management, and a wildly exposed lieback finish (crux) at the top. Shorter folks might have trouble reaching the right hold that starts the final lieback. This will likely see plenty of activity due to being the easiest thing up there.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower Two > ... > Photo
By: Steve Annecone When: Nov 7, 2015

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Comments: He's looking highly focused! Hard to not pay attention on this testpiece....


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Rincon > Rincon - L of Center Route > Aerospace (5.11c)
By: Steve Annecone When: Nov 2, 2015

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Comments: I fully concur with KCP's comment above. Keep the spice factor alive and relevant in Eldo! But also, let's not shoot ourselves in the foot by trusting shitty old hardware and making it more dangerous than it was for the first ascents. Eldorado is one of the last, pure trad climbing venues in America, and we should make sure it stays that way.


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