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Member Since: Apr 17, 2004
Last Visit: 20 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 23
Total Points: 10,890

377 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Tradoholic been climbing?










Contributions


All 6135 | Routes 284 | Areas 80 | Photos 1389 | Page Improvements | Comments 1651 | Posts 977 | Stars 1189 | Ratings 565
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Barker Dam Area : Hunk Rock : Hunk Rock - East Face : Soft Cell (5.10d)
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 15, 2017

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Comments: Good JT slab but def reachy.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Barker Dam Area : Hunk Rock : Hunk Rock - East Face : Death of a Decade (5.10a)
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 15, 2017

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Comments: Fun stemming, gear is tricky, bolt hanger is rusty but bomber, hollow flakes to start.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Hall of Horrors Area : Hall of Horrors : ... : Jane's Addiction (5.11b)
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 15, 2017

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Comments: The first bolt is missing, looks like it broke. We TR'd this off the third bolt by rapping.


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Great Chimney Area : ... : Photo
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 15, 2017

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Comments: Lol, it's not.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (o) Right of the Escalator : Hot Buttered Rump (5.10a)
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 12, 2017

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Comments: The block is loose, deal with it.


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : Steinke Basin Bouldering : Steinke Wall : ... : Jack Backwards (5.12+ V5 PG13)
By: Tradoholic When: Jan 4, 2017

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Comments: Baker did this ropeless?!?!? Baker, you are now Midwest Hardcore.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Roadside Rocks : Dihedral Rock : Thin Line (aka Limp Wristed... (5.11c)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 29, 2016

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Comments: Thanks for the essay Roy. Having had the privilege of naming a few routes myself I appreciate the process. Not having read the forum of note I can't comment specifically but I would imagine that people had a hard time understanding context, they usually do.

The climbing illuminati seems to misunderstand the true roots of our culture, the good and the bad, for better or worse. I think you essay shows the true nature of the whole "scene" of the ti... more >>


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (h) Smooth Sole Walls : Smooth Sole Wall - Left Sid... : Over and Out (5.9 R)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 10, 2016

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Comments: I remember this being pretty fun but R.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (h) Smooth Sole Walls : Smooth Sole Wall - Right Si... : Ultimatum (5.10b R)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 10, 2016

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Comments: Runout after the 1st bolt is definitely R, no doubt. I took the variation left, then back right to stand on a huge knob to clip the 3rd bolt (3/8 but homemade hanger). Then get to the next obvious knob up and right, probably easier not to sling it, (no feet) and just mantle up using the arete to finish.

My partner did the direct by moving slightly right to a good black knob, didn't seem quite 10d.

BTW, this line starts at the apex of the ledge right of Micky Mantle and Howa... more >>


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (h) Smooth Sole Walls : Smooth Sole Wall - Left Sid... : Drowned Out (5.10a R)
By: Tradoholic When: Dec 10, 2016

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Comments: Start on a flake, clipping one bolt above the flake (first bolt of Down and Out) but continue right for a few more feet then do some easy moves on jugs to the official first bolt. 10a at the third bolt, then trend right to the arete.

This is the bolt line one over from the arete, Over and Out is on the arete but starts the same way.


Location: Wisconsin : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Hell Wall AKA Quarry Wall : Glass Balls (5.8)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 30, 2016

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Comments: Modern climbers don't contemplate anything, figgin kids thse days...


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (e) South Face : Disco Jesus (5.11b)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 28, 2016

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Comments: P1 doesn't seem 10c, pretty damn easy, maybe I'm missing something? Anyway it's trivial compared to the rest I guess. I couldn't do it clean but on the start of P2 I was just left of the belay and found a 3 finger dime edge that's very hidden in white rock, took me a few tries to even see it, I was able to crimp friggin hard and bring my left foot up to a nice nub, there's anot... more >>


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (k) Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side : New Generation (5.11c)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 26, 2016

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Comments: The last pitch is a fun 10a easily accessible from the right side.


Location: Wisconsin : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Hell Wall AKA Quarry Wall : Glass Balls (5.8)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 22, 2016

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Comments: Nah, I don't give a fuck, I didn't even climb it ;)


Location: Wisconsin : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Hell Wall AKA Quarry Wall : Glass Balls (5.8)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 21, 2016

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Comments: This route description was edited without my permission!


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (p) Godzilla Face : Baby Cobra (5.11b)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 14, 2016

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Comments: Looks like there may have been a 3rd pin to protect the start, none currently. Pretty nasty fall if you pop out before clipping the high pins. I opted not to get fucked up and climbed something else.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (p) Godzilla Face : Mecca Godzilla (5.11a A1)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 14, 2016

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Comments: I did the final pitch as a direct finish to MR. Decent 10+ slab climbing with a fun mantle to start.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (o) Right of the Escalator : Free Lance (5.10c)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 14, 2016

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Comments: Ok climbing for the first three bolts. Good holds will push you right to an unprotectable flaring crack (5.9) at bolt three, staying on route goes straight up to the 4th bolt but that felt pretty contrived to do so.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (n) Rebolting Face : Rebolting Development (5.11a R)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 14, 2016

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Comments: No harder than 10c if you take the crux bypass. I found the R to the 3rd bolt not too bad, eases up just in time. Hardest move was over the 1st bolt on P2, I had to dead point to a pocket. The crux on P2 is described at "scary" but also "PG" in the new guidebook (shrugs).

Overall great climbing on good edges and cool pockets the whole way.


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 06 - Balanced Ro... : 6.3 - Hole-In-The-Wall : Grand Finale (5.13b V8)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 11, 2016

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Comments: I see you are still following in my footsteps ;)


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : South Bluff Bouldering : Messenger Boulder : All Along The Messenger Sho... (V1 PG13)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 7, 2016

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Comments: Yes, climbed it.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : The Others : Devils Staircase : The Dark Angel Buttress : The Dark Angel (5.10a/b R)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 6, 2016

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Comments: Sorry, I didn't like this one much. However, it did have a nice back country feel.
We did it in 3 pitches starting from the bottom of the chute. So the obvious splitter crack/flake was on P2. Thought that was pretty easy, maybe 5.8 at most. The final P3 overhang jam crack was tough though, solid 10a.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : The Others : The Indian Buttress Formati... : Indian Buttress (5.10a)
By: Tradoholic When: Nov 6, 2016

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Comments: Did this in two pitches. Fun tips section on P2. Bolted anchors are available but I didn't feel that they were needed.

We rapped twice down the gulley to the climbers right. There's a tree for rap 1 but with a 70m we had to downclimb a little to reach a bolted rap station for rap 2. There's another bolted rap station below that but you can easily down climb to the climbers left to the ground.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (q) Sunkist Face : Question of Balance (5.10c R)
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 10, 2016

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Comments: A fall from the crux would put you on the ground unless you climb further up the crack place a piece high, then downclimb back to the right angle ramp up to the bolt. Alternatively just climb up the left diagonal crack then take a undercling crack to join the route above the bolt. 10a this way and much better protected.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (r) Sideshow Slab : Ours (5.10b)
By: Tradoholic When: Oct 10, 2016

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Comments: Shares first two bolt with Showstopper, then goes slightly left to a ledge with two bolt anchor. 2 more bolts on crystal crimps to a final anchor shared with Showstopper. It would be hatd to get off route I think.


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