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Member Since: Jan 22, 2007
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



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All 442 | Routes | Areas | Photos 1 | Page Improvements | Comments 108 | Posts 280 | Stars 27 | Ratings 26
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Oregon : Oregon Volcanoes : Three Sisters Wilderness : Broken Top : Northwest Ridge (4th)
By: splitclimber When: 17 hours ago

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Comments: climbed this route on 7.21.17. only some snow patches on the approach. we did the left variation which takes you around the left side of the pinnacle. There is one or two very easy fifth class moves on good rock but with a big drop below if you mess up. We belayed this short section to the summit since we brought a short rope and a bit of gear.

very rewarding summit.


Location: Wyoming : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Tiger Tower : South Gully (5.6)
By: splitclimber When: Jul 11, 2017

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Comments: So is this the standard tiger tower approach climb or is this a variation or something different? Is the correct approach gully the obvious one in the picture?


Location: Idaho : Central Idaho : The Sawtooth Range : Warbonnet Peak
By: splitclimber When: Jul 11, 2017

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Comments: FYI - Warbonnet Peak is mis-labeled on Google. They plot it south of Braxon Lake. Finally looked at the topo approach beta pic on here which straightened me out.


Location: Wyoming : Sweetwater Rocks : Lankin Dome
By: splitclimber When: Jul 4, 2017

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Comments: Can anyone comment on the road conditions for the two ways to access the dome and what way would be the best this August with a awd without much clearance.

Willing to hike a longer distance as we will be driving a Mazda CX-5 that is pretty new and not willing to scratch it up or bottom out.



Location: California : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Table Scraps Pinnacle
By: splitclimber When: Jul 1, 2017

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Comments: Thanks Jim for your bolt replacement efforts here and many other crags in the bay area.


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Uptown Rock : Delta Wall
By: splitclimber When: Jun 26, 2017

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Comments: Ethan Pringle got a proud FA on this wall

instagram.com/p/BUaSgO7BqDl/?t...


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites
By: splitclimber When: Jun 24, 2017

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Comments: Tristan - I'd just bring a bunch of long shoulder length skinny slings to girth or basket hitch so you don't have to "tie off" cord.

I'm posting to get more suggestions or input about van camping in the Dolomites. It is mentioned in the write-up. Has anyone taken this route? Are you forced onto sides of busy roads on in trailhead parking lots?


Location: California : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Kimball Canyon : Black Tower
By: splitclimber When: Mar 13, 2017

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Comments: FYI - Jim Thornburg updated his Bay Area Rocks guidebook lists these climbs in reverse order. They are listed correctly here.

Also, you can use a 60 meter rope on the two 5.8's, but you better tie a knot in the ends when rapping. I really recommend belaying from above when belaying a follower. If the rope doesn't run through draws, a 60m rope does just reach the ground and you can top rope them, but barely and lowering the last 20 feet is awkward and wil... more >>


Location: California : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Kimball Canyon
By: splitclimber When: Jan 20, 2017

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Comments: nice writeup Eric. about time these climbs were included on MP since they are in Thornburg's Bay Area Rock guide.


Location: California : Northeast California : Bald Rock : Bald Rock Picnic Area : Photo
By: splitclimber When: Dec 21, 2016

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Comments: So Cool. Tell us about the pic Dave.


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : June Lake Area : Rush
By: splitclimber When: Nov 9, 2016

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Comments: Come on Ken. Lead these suckas. You can do it.

Thx for developing these crags and posting them here.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (3) Phoenix : Hissing Llamas (5.8)
By: splitclimber When: Oct 13, 2016

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Comments: i think my only fall on a 5.8. I remember thinking it would be cruiser, but botched the crux sequence. a good route.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Southern Yosemite : Mt Clark
By: splitclimber When: Oct 6, 2016

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Comments: Richard - i know if you or Vitaliy post about approach times, I take it with a bucket of salt. ;)

there are trip reports on the web about the difficulty of route finding when approaching from the west, some taking the grey creek fork by accident. my wife and I are not the c2c types. I've scoped the approach from the merced river, up from upper Yosemite valley last year and it looked pretty brutal, mostly in terms of the vertical gain.

Not giving up yet.

Our cons... more >>


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Southern Yosemite : Mt Clark
By: splitclimber When: Oct 6, 2016

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Comments: the west approach is not so relaxed. tried it last week, knew it was a lot of miles and vert in the forest, but fully underestimated the approach. camped just off the trail where the clark and gray creeks get close together. even with pretty good luck on the initial approach, after two hours of log hopping and weaving through mostly low angle forest, we looked up at 3,500 VF to the summit and pulled the plug. just way too many downed trees from the fires.

Thinking a basecamp at Obelisk lake... more >>


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Slick Rock Dome
By: splitclimber When: Sep 15, 2016

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Comments: Thanks Ney.

I'll bring a 60m tagline and tie knots if we rap friction addition as you suggested. will probably just walk off though.

Are the heights on some of these routes off then? I would think crystal chute would be over 400 feet just for two pitches if each pitch is 70m.

Or am I confusing height vs length?


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Slick Rock Dome
By: splitclimber When: Sep 13, 2016

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Comments: Hey Ney,
I think you may have mentioned this in the ST thread on slick rock, but do you really need two 70m ropes to rap off some of these climbs? it looks like it from the topo, but wanted to confirm it.

An example is crystal chute - topo makes it look like you need 2 70m ropes to do two raps, but the length of the climb is only 250 feet. ???

I only have 1 70m. :(


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Crystal Crag : Kilt Wall : Off Kilter (5.9)
By: splitclimber When: Sep 9, 2016

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Comments: great climb - getting over the lip is strenuous but very safe. you can also TR most of View to a Kilt to the left with a couple directionals at around 10b/c.

ben nevis corner route is to the right of off kilter, not left.


Location: California : Redwood Coast : Ossagon Rocks
By: splitclimber When: Sep 8, 2016

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Comments: totally agree Matthias. An amazing place where you can absorb nature's beauty and do some rock climbing. :) I didn't want to leave.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : High Sierra Camps : Nightingale Arete (5.9+) : Photo
By: splitclimber When: Sep 7, 2016

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Comments: thx for posting this Richard.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Range : Budd Creek : Unknown (5.9)
By: splitclimber When: Sep 7, 2016

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Comments: not to burst your bubble on the fa

supertopo.com/tr/Unicorn-Peak-...


Location: California : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Sonoma Coast State Park : Sea Crag : ... : Crack Wall (5.8)
By: splitclimber When: Sep 7, 2016

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Comments: the crack through the roof (left side of pic I think?) is really good

there is an old fixed cam near the start


Location: California : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Sonoma Coast State Park : Sea Crag : ... : The Sandbagger (5.7)
By: splitclimber When: Sep 7, 2016

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Comments: can also climb crack wall into this climb or the 5.6 to the right of sandbagger and avoid the crappy 4th class gully.


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Pop Bottle (5.7)
By: splitclimber When: Jul 25, 2016

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Comments: felt the crux buldge on pitch 1 was 5.7.

I started the second pitch left of the bolt to not be exposed over the large corner and so your belayer can spot you. If you start out right on larger dikes a fall here onto your belayer would not have a good outcome.

I don't see the need for the bolted anchor (retro?) on pitch 2, just keep climbing and belay when the rope runs out.


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Hogsback : ... : Harvey's Wallbangers Left (5.8)
By: splitclimber When: Jul 25, 2016

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Comments: talked to a team that just finished this and he said it was pretty dirty and not enjoyable.


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Hogsback : ... : Harvey's Wallbangers, Right (5.7)
By: splitclimber When: Jul 25, 2016

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Comments: can do in 1 pitch with a 70m rope. belay 20' or so up from the tree or simul a little bit.

fun worthwhile route. I didn't see the need for a 4" piece to safely protect the crux roof. A 3" for the first roof, then a 1" for the second roof.


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