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Member Since: Apr 29, 2012
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Rude Boy
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Point Rank: # 1,036
Total Points: 798
Last Year: 215
Last 30 Days: 32
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Rude Boy been climbing?










Contributions


All 440 | Routes | Areas | Photos 141 | Page Improvements | Comments 93 | Posts 115 | Stars 61 | Ratings 30
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Northern California : Tahoe - Ice Climbing condit... : Post : Photo
By: Rude Boy When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Gnar!


Location: General Climbing : GIMPS GONE WILD!! Double yo... : Post : Photo
By: Rude Boy When: 6 days ago

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Comments: Really? I don't see any nipples?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art
By: Rude Boy When: Dec 1, 2016

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Comments: You can rappel from the "P3" anchor directly to the start with 2 70m ropes.
Rock Climbing Photo:  rappel
rappel



Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Blue Gramma Cliff : Unnamed (far right side - b... (5.10)
By: Rude Boy When: Dec 1, 2016

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Comments: I protected the upper roof with two 4.0's. It starts getting sandy and loose up there when pulling over and progressively more "beach like" toward the anchor. And by "beach like" I mean tight hand jamming in sand. Still a good route though IMO.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Blue Gramma Cliff : Petrelli Motors (5.10-)
By: Rude Boy When: Dec 1, 2016

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Comments: Perfect fingers all the way for someone with medium size hands. Mostly 0.4-0.5 size. Could use 0.75 near the upper mantle parts.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Blue Gramma Cliff : Dawn of an Age (5.10b)
By: Rude Boy When: Dec 1, 2016

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Comments: Fantastic route. Can use offwidth technique or just lieback the upper wyde section.


Location: justino : moab ice : Photo
By: Rude Boy When: Nov 17, 2016

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Comments: Feckin' rad! I wanna climb ice in the desert


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cathedral Spires Area : Higher Cathedral Rock : ... : Photo
By: Rude Boy When: Oct 24, 2016

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Comments: Looks about right. I got stuck in there for a bit!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cathedral Spires Area : Higher Cathedral Rock : Book of Job (5.10)
By: Rude Boy When: Oct 24, 2016

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Comments: For pitch 3 big stuff I used 2 #3's (if you can call them big?) and 2 #5's. I had 2 #4's with me that I dragged all the way to the top of the pitch. The slot in the roof protects perfectly with a #5. You could use a #6 further out but why if you have a #5. As someone else mentioned, this route is very physical! Linked pitches with a 70m as others describe.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : Photo
By: Rude Boy When: Oct 18, 2016

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Comments: He was probably too busy grinding his teeth


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Post Partum (5.10a)
By: Rude Boy When: Oct 18, 2016

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Comments: The slabby ramp half way up will make you think but he crux for me was transitioning off the ramp and onto the face following the bolt line.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Wacked Scenario (5.10b)
By: Rude Boy When: Oct 18, 2016

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Comments: I lead this as a pure crack/offwidth climb. AMAZING!!!!! So much fun. Big hands most of the way with a short section of arm baring/knee jamming in the wyde part 4/3's the way up. The crux after that is pretty wild too. My partner followed it without doing one jam, pure face. There you go, take your pick.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Cardinal Pinnacle : West Face (5.10a)
By: Rude Boy When: Oct 18, 2016

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Comments: Rad! Do it is all I have to say. Soft for 5.10a. Partner and I both thought 5.9. Doubles up to #3 (no #4 needed) and small stuff. Felt well protected to me. Used #1, #2, #3 in the horizontal crack at the base of the chimney for the belay. No stuck #5 at the base of the chimney when we did it. When traversing off pitch 2 anchor, go immediately right and then trend up and right to the crack system. Don't go up straight up off the belay and th... more >>


Location: Chris Bellizzi : My climbing : Photo
By: Rude Boy When: Oct 6, 2016

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Comments: oh yeah, looking closer at your photo you are not falling! show off :)


Location: NY : New York City : Trump Tower : The Stairs (4th)
By: Rude Boy When: Aug 26, 2016

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Comments: Did this as via ferrata. 2.5 hours C2C with a waiting taxi cab outside. Could probably improve on that.


Location: CA : High Sierra : 08 - Bishop Pass and Evolut... : Hurd Peak
By: Rude Boy When: Aug 15, 2016

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Comments: "I look forward to doing more in the area. (Goode looked incredible...is there a ridge traverse?"

Yes there is


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cathedral Spires Area : Middle Cathedral Rock : ... : Photo
By: Rude Boy When: Aug 8, 2016

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Comments: Agreed when the snow is all melted out. If doing early season when there are still considerable snow fields in there, you will want to do some rappels, unless you have an ice axe and crampons :)


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : DAFF Area : Daff Dome West Face : ... : Photo
By: Rude Boy When: Jul 13, 2016

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Comments: There is a really good ledge for his left foot that he is missing. Basically reach up with your left hand over the flake and use your left foot on the ledge. It is 5.8 if you do it this way. If you don't, then it requires some grunt work.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Range : Eichorn Pinnacle : West Pillar Direct (5.10-)
By: Rude Boy When: Jul 12, 2016

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Comments: P1 - sustained 5.9 up the wide crack. You can stay on the outside for some of it but it does require some mandatory offwidthy skills higher up to gain the belay ledge.

P2 - Stay left for the direct variation. Sustained 5.8 hand cracks. mmmmm.......hand crack!

P3 - 15 feet of 5.10- right off the belay to gain the ridge then run it out on 5.easy as far as you can. Nice views!

P4 - 3rd class to 5.easy. Wind your way up and left around a pillar up into a corner. Many options here.

P5 - Many op... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Washington Column : South Face (5.8 C1)
By: Rude Boy When: Jul 7, 2016

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Comments: Do yourself a favor and leave the haul bag at home. If this is your first wall just practice up so that you can move efficiently through C1 (be comfortable leap frogging pieces and you will should be OK). C1 comprises about half the route and the rest you can free.


Location: CA : High Sierra : 02 - The Sawtooth Ridge : Incredible Hulk : Red Dihedral (aka "Yggdrasi... (5.10)
By: Rude Boy When: Jul 7, 2016

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Comments: Use a 70m rope to make this go fast. Solo up to the 5.8 bulge like others say and pitch one will be from there up to the start of the dihedral. Looking at ST, pitches 4 and 5 can be linked. Then just run the rope out to a full 70m for the next two pitches and belay where you feel comfortable. Given the blocky/ledgy terrain above the dihedral it is easy to build belays anywhere. Instead of going all the way to the top like most people do, you can traverse left just under the headwall/ridgeline fo... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Washington Column : The Prow (5.8 C2)
By: Rude Boy When: Jun 13, 2016

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Comments: Didn't seem to need many stoppers on this thing. Used RP's a couple times though. Between the two of us I think we each did two hook moves on cliffhangers. No need for beaks. All the fixed heads were bomber.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : East Buttress (5.10b)
By: Rude Boy When: Jun 6, 2016

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Comments: Climbed this with a 60m and when looking at the supertopo topo linked pitches 2+3, 6+7 (I don't think the lengths mentioned are correct), 9+10, 12+13. In order to link 6+7 go up from Pitch 4 anchor (bolted) to the big ledge and then move left 50 feet and up into the gully and go up the easy blocky terrain to where the real climbing starts and make your anchor there. There is no need to make an intermediate anchor (or even place pro) if you are pitching this out which makes this pitch super fast.... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe : I-80 Corridor : The Emeralds : The Benches : ... : Step into the Light (5.10c)
By: Rude Boy When: May 26, 2016

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Comments: If you blow it just before clipping the second bolt you will deck. Cruxy up top after the 6th bolt. Great climb!


Location: CA : Tahoe : I-80 Corridor : The Emeralds : The Benches : ... : Push to Open (5.10a)
By: Rude Boy When: Apr 25, 2016

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Comments: Good climb. A couple of committing moves up high but well bolted so go for it.


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