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Member Since: Apr 29, 2012
Last Visit: 46 mins ago
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Rude Boy
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Point Rank: # 1,146
Total Points: 615

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Rude Boy been climbing?










Contributions


All 515 | Routes | Areas | Photos 166 | Page Improvements | Comments 104 | Posts 142 | Stars 69 | Ratings 34
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Gong Show Wall : Main Attraction (5.8)
By: Rude Boy When: Jun 7, 2017

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Comments: After climbing pitch 3 you can hit the rappel anchors that are 30-40 feet over to the right. One single rope rap brings you back to the slaby ledge that you can traverse left across to the base of D.M.Z.


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Gong Show Wall : ... : Photo
By: Rude Boy When: Jun 7, 2017

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Comments: Climb up and then trending left up the flakes to below the huge roof. Then do a big step out left and up. This is where the fun face climbing is. This takes you to a big slaby ledge. You can access D.M.Z. on the right side on this ledge. Pitch 3 starts on the left side.


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Gong Show Wall : D.M.Z. (5.10a)
By: Rude Boy When: Jun 7, 2017

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Comments: Micro to finger size pro. I placed one #2 Camalot in a hand pod but everything else was small. The crux is the first 20 feet or so of finger crack to the good rest. It gets easier the higher you go after that. The main description on this page says the main crack after the lower section is hands. Not true even if you have small hands. It is all finger size with a couple occasional tight hand pods.


Location: California : Southern Sierra : Shuteye Ridge : Gray Eagle : Great Depression : Wing Feather (5.8)
By: Rude Boy When: May 30, 2017

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Comments: Yeah, what Dusty Cams said. On pitch 2 step left off the belay and then go straight up. The bolt is 35m up and then after it you barely trend left if you want to sink a cam in before pulling the bulge. The guide book made it sound as if you want to keep trending left. Do not do that.


Location:
By: Rude Boy When: Apr 27, 2017

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Comments: Yeah there were 3 pieces hanging off that roof crack. If it was actually REAL solid rock I'd do it. That whole roof looked like mud. How the hell did someone climb that?!?


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Church Bowl : Bishops Terrace (5.8)
By: Rude Boy When: Apr 24, 2017

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Comments: If you want a little adventure do the next pitch after topping out on the double cracks. Continue up the corner to the roof and then skirt along the wall under the roof to a bolted anchor/rap station. Easy but mostly unprotected. 1 rappel with 2 60m ropes and you will hit the ground.

Rock Climbing Photo: up the corner
up the corner


Rock Climbing Photo: along the wall
along the wall



Location: Utah : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10) : Photo
By: Rude Boy When: Apr 5, 2017

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Comments: That is soooooooooooo photo shopped


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10) : Photo
By: Rude Boy When: Apr 5, 2017

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Comments: That's the top of the 3rd pitch he is at.


Location: Rude Boy : Fun : Photo
By: Rude Boy When: Mar 29, 2017

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Comments: Yeah it was like freakin' minus 10 Josh!


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Trial By Fire (5.8)
By: Rude Boy When: Mar 14, 2017

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Comments: I climbed this fucker a while back. WYDE! awkward and sandbagged. I remember only needing 1 #5 to keep pushing up. Nothing else really.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Sons of Yesterday (5.10-)
By: Rude Boy When: Mar 14, 2017

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Comments: It only gets better the higher you go! The left leaning 10a crack on the penultimate pitch can be walked up with slight lieback technique. So fun and easy if done this way. Easiest 10a ever!


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Three Brothers Area : Lower Brother : Absolutely Free, Center (5.9)
By: Rude Boy When: Mar 14, 2017

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Comments: We setup a rappel with rap rings off the chock stone at the top of the chimney on pitch 3. It is mandatory to use a 70 m rope to reach the belay ledge below. We also put rap rings on the two hanger anchor at the top of pitch 1. You can rap the route quite easily with a 70 m rope doing 4 rappels.


Location: Northern California : Tahoe - Ice Climbing condit... : Post : Photo
By: Rude Boy When: Dec 6, 2016

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Comments: Gnar!


Location: General Climbing : GIMPS GONE WILD!! Double yo... : Post : Photo
By: Rude Boy When: Dec 2, 2016

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Comments: Really? I don't see any nipples?


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art
By: Rude Boy When: Dec 1, 2016

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Comments: You can rappel from the "P3" anchor directly to the start with 2 70m ropes.
Rock Climbing Photo:  rappel
rappel



Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Blue Gramma Cliff : Unnamed (far right side - b... (5.10)
By: Rude Boy When: Dec 1, 2016

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Comments: I protected the upper roof with two 4.0's. It starts getting sandy and loose up there when pulling over and progressively more "beach like" toward the anchor. And by "beach like" I mean tight hand jamming in sand. Still a good route though IMO.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Blue Gramma Cliff : Petrelli Motors (5.10-)
By: Rude Boy When: Dec 1, 2016

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Comments: Perfect fingers all the way for someone with medium size hands. Mostly 0.4-0.5 size. Could use 0.75 near the upper mantle parts.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Blue Gramma Cliff : Dawn of an Age (5.10b)
By: Rude Boy When: Dec 1, 2016

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Comments: Fantastic route. Can use offwidth technique or just lieback the upper wyde section.


Location: justino : moab ice : Photo
By: Rude Boy When: Nov 17, 2016

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Comments: Feckin' rad! I wanna climb ice in the desert


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cathedral Spires Area : Higher Cathedral Rock : ... : Photo
By: Rude Boy When: Oct 24, 2016

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Comments: Looks about right. I got stuck in there for a bit!


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cathedral Spires Area : Higher Cathedral Rock : Book of Job (5.10)
By: Rude Boy When: Oct 24, 2016

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Comments: For pitch 3 big stuff I used 2 #3's (if you can call them big?) and 2 #5's. I had 2 #4's with me that I dragged all the way to the top of the pitch. The slot in the roof protects perfectly with a #5. You could use a #6 further out but why if you have a #5. As someone else mentioned, this route is very physical! Linked pitches with a 70m as others describe.

wear long sleeves for the OW or this happen... more >>


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : Photo
By: Rude Boy When: Oct 18, 2016

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Comments: He was probably too busy grinding his teeth


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Post Partum (5.10a)
By: Rude Boy When: Oct 18, 2016

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Comments: The slabby ramp half way up will make you think but he crux for me was transitioning off the ramp and onto the face following the bolt line.


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Wacked Scenario (5.10b)
By: Rude Boy When: Oct 18, 2016

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Comments: I lead this as a pure crack/offwidth climb. AMAZING!!!!! So much fun. Big hands most of the way with a short section of arm baring/knee jamming in the wyde part 4/3's the way up. The crux after that is pretty wild too. My partner followed it without doing one jam, pure face. There you go, take your pick.


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Cardinal Pinnacle : West Face (5.10a)
By: Rude Boy When: Oct 18, 2016

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Comments: Rad! Do it is all I have to say. Soft for 5.10a. Partner and I both thought 5.9. Doubles up to #3 (no #4 needed) and small stuff. Felt well protected to me. Used #1, #2, #3 in the horizontal crack at the base of the chimney for the belay. No stuck #5 at the base of the chimney when we did it. When traversing off pitch 2 anchor, go immediately right and then trend up and right to the crack system. Don't go up straight up off the belay and th... more >>


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