Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community


Member Since: Jul 20, 2008
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
Contact SMR

Point Rank: # 705
Total Points: 1,133
Last Year: 194
Last 30 Days: 0
0 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has SMR been climbing?










Contributions


All 1026 | Routes 103 | Areas 4 | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 43 | Posts 194 | Stars 391 | Ratings 291
Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Box Canyon : Jehovah Wall : Ribonucleic Convulsions (5.12d)
By: SMR When: Aug 16, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: With the addition of deceptacon, the Ribo-con line is changing. Routes change over time as people discover new paths, but the iron cross move is a classic crux move.

Historically, Ribocon climbs through and to the left of the bolt line.
The crux was the long iron-cross move to the large jug then into the sloppy heuco.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Windshield Wiper Wall : Jackknifed (5.12c)
By: SMR When: Jul 15, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I believe the new route to the right is called Difference of Opinion. FA: Dave LeBaron and the grade consensus is around 12b.


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : Mill Canyon : Choss Cave : Chostakovitch (5.12d)
By: SMR When: Jun 22, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I don't remember Martin grading this 13a back in the day. We spent a lot of time there that summer ... and it is a different route now compared to then.
I think upgrading it to 13a now is fair b/c two larger holds and a few less important ones have broken off.

Shanna


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : Mill Canyon : Choss Cave : Unknown/RX (5.13c)
By: SMR When: Jun 1, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Jeremy- I spoke to Martin and beta on this line is vague. If you see Erik Kubiak, I think he is the FA and would know the line. Thanks, Shanna


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : Mill Canyon : Choss Cave : Traverse (5.12d)
By: SMR When: Jun 1, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Jeremy - I updated the description. thanks,


Location: UT : Saint George : Welcome Springs : The Wailing Wall : Robbed (5.12c)
By: SMR When: Apr 8, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I rarely do this, but being a 5'1" climber I think route is as hard if not harder than Bastard Stepchild :)


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : Mill Canyon : Mill Canyon West
By: SMR When: Feb 5, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Steve
Thanks for the comments. A 12D Walter Anyan FA route could easily be 13a.
I agree with the 12b grade for Mr Muscles, but in posting these up I wanted to attach the original FA rating and let the community provide feedback.
Please feel free to add grade ratings to each climb so it shakes out in the end.

Shanna


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : Mill Canyon : Mill Canyon West
By: SMR When: Feb 3, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This wall was developed spring/summer 2005 primarily by Walter Anyan, Martin Berzins and Max Dufford. They said share the beta since these routes are good, but need cleaning.
This wall gets sun until 3-4pm and like the other Millcreek walls, it has a wildlife closure until the middle of April


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Box Canyon : 2nd Arch Wall
By: SMR When: Nov 19, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Currently there are 4 bolted routes on this wall. Details are missing, as well as consensus on the grades, so please comment.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Damascus Gate : Welcome Back Cobble (5.12d)
By: SMR When: Aug 25, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I am not surprised this might be 12c now. When Robert and I sent it, it took some time to find the holds and it was pretty chossy, but Maple climbs get easier 95% of the time - holds get more solid, bigger from brushing, ticks, chalk... etc.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Box Canyon : The Arch : The Only Religion (5.13c)
By: SMR When: Aug 17, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This was an undone project bolted 15 or so years ago.
I believe it is listed as a project in Darren's guide.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Windshield Wiper Wall : The Windshield Wiper (5.12a)
By: SMR When: Jul 31, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: D.A. - if bolts are bad, I would recommend you contact SLCA. They try to put effort into getting bolts replaced etc.
Could a wrench be used to re-tighten them?


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Windshield Wiper Wall : Whiskey on the Southbound (5.12a)
By: SMR When: Jul 16, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: In my experience, routes will likely get easier at MC overtime. It could be 11d now that holds have chalk, they are clean and not covered in sand, they are solid so the pucker factor is greatly reduced. People go off the bolt-line to find an easier sequence.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : The Compound : Neptune's Spear (5.13b)
By: SMR When: Jul 13, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: FYI- To stay true to the theme of the compound, the name of route, Neptune Spear, refers to operation that killed OBL.


Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : South Willow Canyon - Narro... : Narrows - North : ATV (5.13a)
By: SMR When: Mar 18, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Not sure about the bolt. Maybe it was moved since 2008 when I RPed it. I just added it as a tick last year since it was a new route on MP. A double draw solved the issue for me than since I could clip one move lower (but I am 5'1" so someone taller could use this hold normally).

This route supposedly went at 13c originally. I guess it is getting easier.


Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : South Willow Canyon - Narro... : Narrows - South : Walk the Plank (5.11-)
By: SMR When: Sep 8, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I think the FA is Martin Benzins apx. 2002.


Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : South Willow Canyon - Narro... : Narrows - North : ATV (5.13a)
By: SMR When: Aug 21, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: A change of bolt location would be a good idea. When working this route, I took the fall once and with an attentive belayer it was OK, but I used a double draw to avoid that fall again.


Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : South Willow Canyon - Narro... : Narrows - North : Black Sails (5.12a/b)
By: SMR When: Jul 7, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The 12c I am talking about went in about 15 years ago. So it must be to the left or right of this one since it is a new line.

They have it listed as the mountain route at rockclimbing.com, but I think it is mountaineer route. If I recall this route has a bulge in the middle, then a slab section and hard crux at the last 2 bolts.


Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : South Willow Canyon - Narro... : Narrows - North : Teflon Guerrilla (5.12a)
By: SMR When: Jul 7, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I don't think this is Dirt.
The name I have is Bitch put up by Bill Boyle.
I tried to collect info from different sites and this is what I have (from Dr. topo, supertopo etc) in about 2010. New routes would not be included.
Road side - from left to right
11c- Name unknown. This is the most up canyon route on the road side. In 2009, there was a sling on this route.
13b- ATV. This route pulls a series of bulges via crimps and tiny crimps to the ½ way mark. After a brief rest, continue to t... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Billboard Trail : The Billboard : Bubba Gump (5.10b)
By: SMR When: Jun 17, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: FA: Dave Bradd 2001


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Billboard Trail : The Billboard : Unknown (5.10c/d)
By: SMR When: Jun 17, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I think the FA: Dave Bradd 2001, but I don't recall the name.


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : Mill Canyon : Choss Cave : Traverse (5.12d)
By: SMR When: Apr 12, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: There are numerous links and traverses that have been completed over the years. The main one went as I described into cowbelly, but people have also linked into other climbs.

Some people like to link climbs to build up there 8a scorecard so there a numerous variations up there.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : The Arizona Strip : Lime Kiln Canyon : The Grail : Homo Faber (5.12d)
By: SMR When: Mar 26, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I would give a vote for low 13a for this one. Mainly because I found the moves through the crux to be a tad long (I am 5'1"). Maybe I just needed to get my feet higher...
I could see 12d though.

Also, using mid-anchors, a 70m rope works. I tried to get to the ground with my 70M and was about 20ft up...


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Middle Fork : The Matrix : Sound the Klaxon (5.10b)
By: SMR When: Sep 25, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: There is a new extension added to this climb. Lobsterian, 5.11b or c. FA: L. Rumanes.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Bingo Baby : Ivy Mike (5.12d)
By: SMR When: Jul 24, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: There are anchors on this route. This was the first time on the route but it looks like the anchors are above 9 so the ending continues to be funky.


Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>