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Member Since: Sep 15, 2003
Last Visit: Sep 30, 2017
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Point Rank: # 2,009
Total Points: 405

21 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 718 | Routes 6 | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos 69 | Page Improvements | Comments 64 | Posts 169 | Stars 256 | Ratings 154
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Yosemite Valley > Half Dome > Photo
By: SirVato When: Oct 23, 2008

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Comments: In may of '07, we climbed the NW face. We hiked the trail and slept at the the base (opted out of the death slabs). I woke to the sound of something ripping through the air. When I looked up, I saw one BASE jumper had already launched and the other was standing on the diving board. Both were flying wingsuits and from exit 'till out of sight I never saw them deploy their chutes!!


Location: Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge > The Book > The Pages Wall Area > The Final Chapter (5.11a/b)
By: SirVato When: Jul 18, 2008

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Comments: This thing stomped me for some reason!! The start was fine, I did stem off Cheap Date as long as possible but the upper crux was NASTY!
Tough lie back with a big reach good gear though. The first time I got on this, I bailed out to Cheap Date because, I didn't see any good gear available. Went back a week later to give 'er another go and found some good rp placements to get going out of the Cheap Date stance.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower One > Ruper (5.8+)
By: SirVato When: Jul 16, 2008

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Comments: Aaaaaactually. . .You CAN do the lower in 1 pitch with a 60m rope if you don't over-do your pro. The upper definitely goes in 2 pitches or 1 long if you simul a bit.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Vampire Rock > Pin Cushion (5.11c)
By: SirVato When: Jul 10, 2008

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Comments: I like the bolt spacing. And I am of shorter stature so, the first clip was a bit sporty. Also seeing how far the next bolt was I opted to clip a lone 'biner to the first bolt to save a foot or drop should I blow any of the moves above. I'm also going to have to go with no more than 11b. I don't usually onsight 11c and definitely not 11d!!
The pro is adequate but that's it!! No more no less, I thought the movement was great and, although short, it was a pretty exciting pitch!!


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > The Bastille > The Bastille - W Face > West Face (5.11a)
By: SirVato When: Jul 3, 2008

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Comments: Wow, great route but I also had a harder time with the bulge than the thin crack start.
Did the start clean even after plugging up the good finger lock with a yellow Alien but, got worked on the bulge!! I don't know if it was trying to fiddle with gear or just not wanting to commit over those bent ass pins or what but after reading these comments I for sure have to go back an redeem myself!!!

Good fun stuff though!
I friggin' love Eldo!!


Location: The People of Mountain Proj... > climberKJ > me > Photo
By: SirVato When: Jul 3, 2008

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Comments: Damn girl!! Why you flippin' out??!!

Nice tuck!


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Rincon > Rincon - L of Center Route > Bat's Ass Dihedral (5.11a)
By: SirVato When: Jun 17, 2008

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Comments: Hmm. My partner told me to go right and then back left also, but I wasn't feelin' it. After coming off a few times, I git an undercling, smedged my up as high as I could got the right hand over the roof and just hucked for it!! Pretty exciting li'l all point dyno to get the Jugs!


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > Way Rambo > Layaway Plan (5.11+) > Photo
By: SirVato When: Jan 30, 2008

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Comments: No this photo is from '06. The resolution just isn't good enough for you to see the damage but, it's there.


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > Battle of the Bulge Buttres... > Cave Route (5.10d)
By: SirVato When: Sep 18, 2007

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Comments: Or rainy days!! Yeah I agree a single .75 and about 5-6 #1s will sew it up.


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > Reservoir Wall > Pente (5.11-)
By: SirVato When: Sep 18, 2007

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Comments: This Route Is sweeet!! #1s are usually pretty tough for me. I found that I just push through the thin stuff and every ten feet or so there seemed to be a GOOD hand jam.
For me the start was kind of awkward and, also when the steepness eases off and the crack thins for the final stratch to the anchors.
Not hard but your pumped and it seems your feet mey slip on the sandy-ish rock.


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Arches National Park > The Three Penguins > Right Chimney (5.10+) > Photo
By: SirVato When: Aug 23, 2007

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Comments: Sweet!!
Why was she mad. . .??


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Photo
By: SirVato When: Jul 11, 2007

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Comments: WHOA!!!

I guess that new rap anchor really was necessary!!


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > The Wind Tower > Wind Tower - SW Face > ... > Photo
By: SirVato When: Jun 28, 2007

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Comments: Aaaahhhh Tagger !!!
Did you finish out on P.2??


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Yosemite Valley > Half Dome > Regular Northwest Face of H... (5.9 C1) > Photo
By: SirVato When: Jun 13, 2007

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Comments: Such fun slab climbing on that pitch!! It was easy but one of my favorite pitches on the route!!


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > Battle of the Bulge Buttres... > Digital Readout (5.12b/c)
By: SirVato When: Mar 13, 2007

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Comments: The crux isn't hard to figure out . . . Just hard to DO!!!
Made it up this time w/out aid but still took a few for the team!!
Decided to sprint the last 10ft to the anchs... desperation set in, fingers came out and, I went down!! Fun ride though!!
Save this for the last climb of the trip or your fingers won't be worth shit for the next route!!


Location: Colorado > South Platte > Cathedral Spires Area > The Bishop > Bishop Crack (5.12b)
By: SirVato When: Feb 20, 2007

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Comments: I think the midway anchor is jingus and needs to come out.
It's a shitty 1/4 inch bolt that's bent and a nut.
If you're up there to climb The Bishop, you need to take it to the top. If you can't free it, it's really easy to pull on gear to the top.
Take plenty of green and yellow Aliens, and you'll be fine.
The finger locks through the crux are surprisingly solid!!



Location: Colorado > South Platte > Cathedral Spires Area > Cynical Pinnacle > Wunsch's Dihedral (5.11)
By: SirVato When: Feb 12, 2007

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Comments: For full value, try linking the crux pitches it's tough.


Location: Chris JD > Colorado > Photo
By: SirVato When: Feb 2, 2007

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Comments: Nice,but. . .
That's "Mesca-line" on the "West Ridge"!!


Location: Texas
By: SirVato When: Jan 24, 2007

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Comments: Hueco Tanks In touble??

I got an e-mail from a friend
HERE's THE LINK


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Lost Horse Area > Hemingway Buttress > Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... > Poodles are People Too (5.10b)
By: SirVato When: Jan 4, 2007

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Comments: This is a cool route!! It looked pretty scary from the ground but, there is excellent small gear whenever you need it for the first
crux(s). Protect the roof above with a green OR yellow alien. These moves are not hard but the gear will be below you so if you come off you could slam kinda hard in to the slab (maybe)


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Echo Rock Area > Touch and Go Face > Touch and Go (5.9)
By: SirVato When: Jan 3, 2007

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Comments: This route was friggin COOL!! The tricky twin crack was awesome then the rest was just GOD JAM FUN!!


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Echo Rock Area > Echo Rock > Echo Rock - West Face > Forbidden Paradise (5.10b)
By: SirVato When: Jan 3, 2007

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Comments: I agree the crux is between bolts 1&2. I got my feet by the bolt, felt 'em slipping and had to do the'ol back-run to 'till i was caught!! Sweet route took me a couple tries to figure the crux out.
I put a GREEN alien where others plased a nut. If the next moves were gonna be as hard as the earlier I wanted "something" there but, didn't end up testing it!! The roof moves aren't bad just, hard to commit to.


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Hidden Valley Campground > The Wall > The Wall - Left Side > Hands Off (5.8)
By: SirVato When: Jan 3, 2007

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Comments: Fun route!! We did this at night which made for a fun time.
The route is directly behind our camp so, a couple of beers later boredom set in and the rack went on!!
Definitely a cool mix of jamming/stemming. The to out was real fun as well.


Location: Colorado > South Platte > Turkey Rocks > Turkey Tail > Rasmussen Crack (5.10b)
By: SirVato When: Dec 18, 2006

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Comments: Was this formerly called "Rasty Crack"??
I have the old Steve Cheyney book "For Turkeys Only" and, it seems
that's what he calls this route.


Location: Colorado > South Platte > Cathedral Spires Area > Sunshine Wall > Buckshot (5.10b)
By: SirVato When: Dec 18, 2006

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Comments: This is a nice route. Cool chimney-ish moves up the v-slot. I didn't go right, but I gotta say there is no way that going left over the block on p1 is harder than 10a. I didn't look at the topo when we fired off on this one and, had to ask my partner if that was 9+ or so. . . Link pitch 1&2 for a great time and much better belay ledge. Pitch 2 is definitely harder, but if you can climb crack, then it's not too bad, I'd say 10a is a fair grade. It's kinda wide (cupped) hand for me and is defi... more >>


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