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Rock Climbing Photo: Moving through the crux lock - now that's micro be...


Member Since: Nov 6, 2003
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Point Rank: # 1,071
Total Points: 764
Last Year: 42
Last 30 Days: 1
224 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 940 | Routes 13 | Areas 3 | Photos 78 | Page Improvements | Comments 199 | Posts 204 | Stars 429 | Ratings 14
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 6 - Finger Lickin' Area : Pinky Paralysis (5.11c)
By: Sirius When: Nov 29, 2016

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Comments: A great route, classic, especially if linking into one pitch. Definitely some sharp locks.

Thought it was easier than the Rostrum's crux pitch. Not even in the same conversation as Butterballs.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 6 - Finger Lickin' Area : Snatch Power (5.10c)
By: Sirius When: Nov 9, 2016

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Comments: There's a bolted anchor at the top between this and Jawbone, works to rap from both of them.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 6 - Finger Lickin' Area : Jaw Bone (5.10a)
By: Sirius When: Nov 9, 2016

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Comments: There's a bolted anchor at the top between this and Snatch Power, works to rap from both of them.

Clean and fun, splitter, but very short.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Leaning Tower Area : Fifi Buttress : Center of the Universe (5.11-)
By: Sirius When: Oct 3, 2016

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Comments: Did this one a few weeks back: Fun, high-quality route. The Fifi (and this FA crew) just keeps on giving.

  • We didn't take a #5 and didn't miss it.
  • We did take an extra .75 and 1 and didn't place them.
  • We linked a bunch with the 70, 8 pitches to the rim. (1+2, 3+4, 5+6 w a bit of drag, 7, 8+9, 10+11, 12+13, 14 short scramble). Climbed this way, it goes fast and doesn't feel like a 1,000 ft route.
  • We thought...
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Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Apron Strings (5.10b)
By: Sirius When: Sep 10, 2016

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Comments: If like me you're, uh, impressionable, don't watch this video before your onsite go!



But maybe watch it after.


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Pingora : Cirque of the Towers Traver... (5.6)
By: Sirius When: Aug 15, 2016

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Comments: Oh my god. I've never been so fired up by a MP page. This is fantastic, fossana, thank you for putting it together.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Widow's Tears Area : Windchill (5.11a)
By: Sirius When: Jul 26, 2016

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Comments: The slab sequence up high is DFU. Ugly deal even if the tree held.

I'm glad I didn't know about any alternatives when we went up, because I wanted to do the whole route, and I was wigged enough on that lead that I would have taken any alternative I could get. There's value to doing the true line. And yet I wouldn't want to lead that pitch again, and wouldn't frown on anybody who opted out of it. ... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 30 - The Rostrum : The North Face (5.11c)
By: Sirius When: Aug 7, 2015

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Comments: This climb surpasses the hype, holy hell it's good.

It's included behind a button on the top of this page, but this is the direct link to the Peregrine closures: nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/cli...

I wouldn't recommend two #5's. Even if you're sketched on wide pitches, you can mostly keep a running TR with a single #5 from the end of the stem.

BURY your waste ... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 14 - Cascade Area : Pat and Jack Pinnacle : Cat's Squirrel (5.12a)
By: Sirius When: Feb 18, 2015

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Comments: supertopo.com/climbing/thread....


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cathedral Spires Area : Middle Cathedral Rock : Freewheelin' (5.10b R)
By: Sirius When: Jan 23, 2015

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Comments: And here is some old-school beta from Largo on how to train for the legendary (and legendarily fearsome) MCR leads:

Per the second ascent of Freewheeling, I don't remember the first pitch having any pro whatsoever. It didn't seem all that horrendous for one reason: We'd spend hours traversing and climbing around at the base of Middle in order to get used to the rock. Many, many times we'd go crack climbing and on the drive back from the Cookie or Arch Rock or El Cap or wherever we'd stop by... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 30 - The Rostrum : Photo
By: Sirius When: Dec 18, 2014

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Comments: Also, there's no OW on the Uprising


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 30 - The Rostrum : The North Face (5.11c) : Photo
By: Sirius When: Nov 12, 2014

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Comments: Wondering what's on that rack...


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 30 - The Rostrum : Kauk-kulator (5.11c)
By: Sirius When: Nov 12, 2014

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Comments: Echoing question above. Crack above looks high quality. Came here to find out what it is.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Widow's Tears Area : Windjammer (5.10c)
By: Sirius When: Oct 8, 2014

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Comments: Also thought p1 was hard climbing a ways over small gear. Stiff warmup that you want to bring your A-game for.

Pitches 2 and 3 are just incredible, classic climbing.

Will definitely do this route again.

We continued up to the valley rim, so not sure about raps. Have heard that someone may have bolted - not confirmed.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Lost Brother : Blood & Coin (5.7 A3-)
By: Sirius When: Sep 26, 2014

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Comments: Hmmmm, this looks amazing. Has it seen a second? How much could be free-climbed at 5.11 and under, do you reckon?

Proud FA on the solo, well done. Dig the GoT names as well.

"Chaos is a ladder"


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cathedral Spires Area : Middle Cathedral Rock : ... : Photo
By: Sirius When: Sep 14, 2014

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Comments: Can't be easy placing gear on that pitch....!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 10 - The Cookie Cliff : Butterballs (5.11c) : Photo
By: Sirius When: Jul 29, 2014

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Comments: That is a great shot, of a hard crack.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Lower Cathedral Rock : Beggar's Buttress (5.11c) : Photo
By: Sirius When: Apr 14, 2014

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Comments: This is such a killer shot.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches Boulder Cracks : Space Invaders (5.12a)
By: Sirius When: Apr 7, 2014

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Comments: ^ Damn!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 21 - Reed's Pinnacle Area : Beyond Lunacy (5.11c)
By: Sirius When: Mar 27, 2014

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Comments: Pitch 4: 170 ft 5.10c: Make a few committing moves to the top of a good knob and clip a first bolt. Continue up clipping a few more till holds disappear for a few moves (crux). Friction up and left to an arête and pass a roof. I traversed the roof from left to right. Continue up easier knobs and do a few more difficult moves till you reach the belay (bolted).

We just went more or less straight up from the second or third bolt, following the bolted line closely, which doesn't bring you... more >>


Location: South America : Chile : Valle Cochamó : Photo
By: Sirius When: Mar 7, 2014

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Comments: What a killer pic.

Had heard that many of Cochamo's cracks were pinched seams - looks like this bolted pitch bears that out...


Location: CA : High Sierra : 09 - Palisades and Surround... : Temple Crag : Sun Ribbon Arete (5.10a) : Photo
By: Sirius When: Feb 26, 2014

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Comments: Oh God, so true, memory still painfully clear. Hours spent on steep, loose sand with perched blocks all around us... Contact can be a nightmare if you don't know where to thread the needle and you can't see, as was the case for us after this pic.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Disney Point (5.10b/c) : Photo
By: Sirius When: Feb 21, 2014

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Comments: Black Diamond or GTFO.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 14 - Cascade Area : Pat and Jack Pinnacle : The Super Slacker Highway (5.10a)
By: Sirius When: Feb 4, 2014

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Comments: Fun climbing to a great summit.

Great line, perhaps overbolted in places. The bolt encountered on the face when moving left after the toothy finger crack (p5?), as an example, sits next to a perfect cam placement.

Feel that .10a might be a sandbag on the mantle before the summit block pitches, but it's not a showstopper.

Quality hardware throughout. At the summit you can see the old anchors, then whisper thanks to the FA'ists for the new rap pieces!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Triple Direct (5.9 C2-) : Photo
By: Sirius When: Feb 4, 2014

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Comments: Benjamin misses the point.

I agree that the people who leave trash strewn on ledges and summits are not reading the message here, and if they are they may not give a damn. They're lousy enough as people to leave their shit for others to clean up, after all.

But the point: Everyone has a duty to clean up trash they find on route and around the climbing areas they frequent, regardless of who the rotten bastard is that left the trash.


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