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Rock Climbing Photo: Rock wars, Red River Gorge


Member Since: Aug 9, 2010
Last Visit: 12 hours ago
Contact shoo

Point Rank: # 6,240
Total Points: 86
Last Year: 12
Last 30 Days: 0
1 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has shoo been climbing?










Contributions


All 532 | Routes | Areas | Photos 15 | Page Improvements | Comments 11 | Posts 490 | Stars 12 | Ratings 4
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: Cinch vs. vergo. Sources: Top left:  MEC.ca. Top r...

Cinch vs. vergo. Sources: Top left: MEC.ca. Top right: trango.com. Bottom left: eskalartienda.com. Bottom right: splitterchoss.com.

Sep 28, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: Dynafit Speed Turn

Dynafit Speed Turn

Forums : ... :

Dec 7, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: WC Syncro Elite

WC Syncro Elite

Forums : Climbing Gear Discussion : ... : Post

Jun 11, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: .4 failure from crystal

.4 failure from crystal

Forums : General Climbing : ... : Post

Feb 24, 2014

Rock Climbing Photo: Pre-production x4 swage. Note that this is VERY di...

Pre-production x4 swage. Note that this is VERY different than the production version.

Forums : Climbing Gear Reviews : ... : Post

Jul 8, 2013

Rock Climbing Photo: mastercam vs x4 head width

mastercam vs x4 head width

Forums : Climbing Gear Reviews : ... : Post

Jun 13, 2013

Rock Climbing Photo: c3 vs x4 head width

c3 vs x4 head width

Forums : Climbing Gear Reviews : ... : Post

Jun 13, 2013

Rock Climbing Photo: c4 vs. x4 head widths

c4 vs. x4 head widths

Forums : Climbing Gear Reviews : ... : Post

Jun 13, 2013

Rock Climbing Photo: Ladies, take note.

Ladies, take note.

Forums : Climbing Gear Reviews : ... : Post

Jun 13, 2013

Rock Climbing Photo: Mastercam on top, x4 on bottom.

Mastercam on top, x4 on bottom.

Forums : Climbing Gear Reviews : ... : Post

Jun 13, 2013

Rock Climbing Photo: Stem/thumb loop interface, mastercam vs. x4

Stem/thumb loop interface, mastercam vs. x4

Forums : Climbing Gear Reviews : ... : Post

Jun 13, 2013

Rock Climbing Photo: BD .2 x4 stem/thumb loop interface

BD .2 x4 stem/thumb loop interface

Forums : Climbing Gear Reviews : ... : Post

Jun 13, 2013

Rock Climbing Photo: .3 BD x4, stem/thumb loop interface.

.3 BD x4, stem/thumb loop interface.

Forums : Climbing Gear Reviews : ... : Post

Jun 13, 2013

Rock Climbing Photo: Kinking x4s.

Kinking x4s.

Forums : Climbing Gear Reviews : ... : Post

Jun 13, 2013

Rock Climbing Photo: Rock wars, Red River Gorge

Rock wars, Red River Gorge

The People of Mountain Proj... : shoo : Profile

Sep 8, 2010

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : *Cathedral Ledge : The Diedre Area : Budapest (5.11+)
By: shoo When: Nov 8, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: AMAZING route.

Rappel beta:
For those seeking to skip the first 3 pitches of Dierdre (which are often soaked), there is another way. You can rappel roughly 55m into the Budapest anchor (same as the anchor at the end of guidebook pitch 3 for Deirdre) via a tree at the top of the cliff. You will need a second dedicated rope for this purpose (which could alternatively be used as doubles if you don't fix it).

I previously marked the tree with a bit of tat on a branch, bu... more >>


Location: NH : *Cathedral Ledge : The Prow Area : Recompense (5.9) : Photo
By: shoo When: Nov 1, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Man, this photo is shockingly over-edited. Recompense is classic grey North Conway granite, as is the rest of Cathedral. It can get a little gold on occasion in just the right near-sunset conditions, but this photo is clearly an example of letting the saturation slider get out of control.

It also doesn't highlight the route well at all. Weird decision-making in the editing process.


Location: NH : *Cathedral Ledge : The Prow Area : The Beast Flake (5.9)
By: shoo When: Jun 3, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: BETA ALERT

If you are doing Recom-Beast, there is a tricky way to make the low (post-flake ripping) transfer back into Recompense after the beast flake super casual and well protected for both the leader and second. Otherwise, it's a poorly protected, awkward, and committing move or two that is certainly the new crux of the route.

After rounding the corner from the beast flake, don't immediately continue down and to the right into the chimney. Instead, climb straight up on a thin juggy flake a... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : The Grack - Center (5.6)
By: shoo When: Apr 22, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I HIGHLY recommend simuling the whole thing if you are your partner are comfortable with it. Doing this as one long pitch is absolutely spectacular, especially for the leader.

Bring a TON of trad draws, a large set of nuts (I used a full wallnut set and the HB offsets), and a standard cam rack up to a #2. Honestly, there is so much fixed mank on this route that you hardly need to place anything if you are comfortable with long runouts on 5.6 granite slab (which you damn well should be if ... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Shannon Falls : Klahanie Crack (5.7)
By: shoo When: Apr 2, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: As mentioned, thinner than it looks. .75s for most of it, but it'll take a variety of gear.

This might be the most overrated route in Squamish. It's just kinda meh. The feature is cool, but it's just not very much fun. Too low angle to be engaging.


Location: NH : *Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : Layton's Ascent (5.9)
By: shoo When: Sep 11, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Warning: The big block in the middle of the route is not really attached to anything. It wobbles a bit when you stand on it. I would personally keep clear.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : Summit Wall : The Open Book (5.7) : Photo
By: shoo When: Apr 19, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Photoshop much? You look like an angel.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : The Motherlode : Buckeye Buttress : Ball Scratcher (5.12a) : Photo
By: shoo When: Feb 8, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: I hear this thing is a ridiculously underrated classic. True?


Location: AL : Horse Pens 40 : Turtle Rock Area/ Panty Shi... : Panty Shields (V3+) : Photo
By: shoo When: Nov 8, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: That would be Peggy Tautz donning those serious panty shields.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : The Motherlode : Buckeye Buttress : Ball Scratcher (5.12a)
By: shoo When: May 5, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Go straight up the arete. None of this gully business.


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