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Member Since: Dec 18, 2004
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
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Point Rank: # 514
Total Points: 1,308

58 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Sean been climbing?










Contributions


All 591 | Routes 50 | Areas 5 | Photos 161 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 198 | Posts 48 | Stars 128 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Sheep Pass CG Area : Small World Cliff : Small World (5.8)
By: Sean When: 3 days ago

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Comments: quick and easy walkoff via 4th class down scramble to climber's left, or rap using the shiny bolted rap anchor atop Mr Wizard


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Cave Corridor Area : Cave Corridor : ... : The Sound of Grains Snappin... (5.4)
By: Sean When: Apr 21, 2017

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Comments: route length approx 70 ft after the upper leftward dogleg tops out at the big perched boulder

where exactly is the stated "two-bolt anchor" located? no topside bolted anchor in sight as of 4/20/2017, not around the perched boulder, not higher up on the sloping summit. saw gray sling around a sketchy chock rock wedged in at the top of a flared crack under the east side of the perched boulder. long webbing could be fixed around the west underside of the perched bo... more >>


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : Bat Crack (5.5)
By: Sean When: Apr 18, 2017

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Comments: just walk across top to backside and rap using the communal rap anchor at the finish of North Overhang (facing parking lot). remember to rap to the big ledge where Upper Right Ski Track starts. don't try to rap to the ground with a 60 or 70


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Geology Tour Road : Virgin Islands Area : Perpetual Motion Wall : Right Archimedes Crack (5.9)
By: Sean When: Apr 15, 2017

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Comments: somewhat burly lower half and sweet hands up the top half


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Geology Tour Road : Virgin Islands Area : Perpetual Motion Wall : Hoser (5.6)
By: Sean When: Apr 7, 2017

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Comments: no big gear needed despite how it looks from the flat ground far below. mostly up the other crack on the main wall. BD Blue #3 for the start, then #2 and smaller for rest of the way up including gear anchor. no rap anchor on summit. do the roundabout long walkoff, or just downclimb the route


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Cyclops Rock : Spaghetti & Chili (5.7+)
By: Sean When: Apr 7, 2017

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Comments: climbed this again today after hearing about the lead fall fatality on 3/25/2017. have led this many times over the yrs. dozen times or more by now

protectability pretty much as i remember. solid placements avail within every 10-15 ft through the somewhat chossy but easy middle stretch. pretty key to opt for bomber placements and not settle for marginal ones

rack of one Blue Alien, double Gree... more >>


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland North : The Middle Kingdom : ... : Clean Crack (5.10a)
By: Sean When: Mar 27, 2017

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Comments: cool V-slot overhang crux. cams from 000 C3 to Red #1 C4. Yellow #2 not really needed, tho one could use that in its rare nut mode up at the finish for a fun placement. easy walkoff down the left shoulder ramp and gully talus back to base


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Church Bowl : Church Bowl Lieback (5.8)
By: Sean When: Mar 14, 2017

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Comments: led up to rap slings presently on tree at left side of topout ledge. extended with a long cordelette to lower anchor master point by about 6 ft. got lowered all the way down to flat ground with a 70, with about 8 ft to spare, with some zigzags on the lead side. TR belayed follower from the ground. afterward, she rapped down to flat ground with about 10 ft to spare on each strand. as mentioned above, depending on the amount of zigzags on the lead, a 70 without anchor extension might not be l... more >>


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Five Open Books Area : ... : The Caverns (5.8)
By: Sean When: Mar 14, 2017

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Comments: enjoyable climb. exciting liebacks, or some tricky jamming. ended up doing a long leftward descent with raps. had passed belay anchors along the route all equipped with rap slings. best to just rap the route?


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Queen Mountain : Walt's Rocks : Lower Walt's Rocks
By: Sean When: Feb 2, 2017

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Comments: the impassably overgrown top of the main descent gully could be bypassed by scrambling DCL (Down Canyon Left), working down to a lower bulge spot that looked cliffed out at first, but actually had a featured rail lip along a flare crack that afforded easy downclimbing to touch down into the gully bottom; could also scoot down the grainy and potato-chipped steep bulge and lunge across to adjacent rocks. easy scrambling beyond that point, to a brief spot of tall brush that we easily duc... more >>


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Roadside Rocks : Jam or Slam Rock : Jam or Slam Rock (SW Face) : Fire or Retire (5.10c)
By: Sean When: Jan 18, 2017

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Comments: same anchor bolt/hanger is still ancient rusty spinner scrap metal. possible to back up the other one good anchor bolt/hanger with medium cam and very long extension


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Great Burrito : Kemosabe and Tonto (5.9+)
By: Sean When: Dec 28, 2016

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Comments: anchor bolts left of topout now has slings with rap rings. rap with one 70m rope leaves about 5 ft to spare on each strand


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lost Horse Wall : Lost Horse Wall - Right Sid... : Altitude Sickness (5.10a)
By: Sean When: Dec 9, 2016

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Comments: if the start for The Swift is busy, could do an alternate P1 for Altitude Sickness further to climber's left and lower. start up two right-slanting cracks that later merge into one and continues slanting, left of and above a prominent dihedral ramp, passing a lil bush (crux with steep slopey feet). then the slanting crack straightens vertically near the end, leading up to the same P1 belay alcove ledge. 5.8 and approx 150 ft for this P1


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lost Horse Wall : Lost Horse Wall - Left Side : Hesitation Blues (5.10-)
By: Sean When: Dec 9, 2016

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Comments: this is really fun. the chossy bits here and there do detract somewhat, but easy enough to bypass those and opt for the solid rock. cool stems, sweet jams, and airy athletic jug rail (right split) finish. rap anchor is a single thick rope slung around rock top with rap rings, looking good at moment, but prob needs reinforcing with an additional long webbing/cord at some point


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Big Hunk : Big Hunk (Southwest Face) : Midnight Dreamer (5.9)
By: Sean When: Nov 22, 2016

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Comments: 3 bolts total (1 at start plus the finishing 2 on adjacent The Black Tuna), rack of doubles from 0.3 (green Aliens) to #1 (Red BD) plus single #2 and #3 plus stoppers


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Power Wall
By: Sean When: Nov 17, 2016

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Comments: the best approach trail to the Power Wall is about 50 ft more south of the Scarface downhill trailhead, on the same side of the road. this narrow but well-worn trail doesn't seem wide enough to ever been an old road. hard to see from afar at first, but it becomes more visible as you step close, with a flat walk off of the road onto dirt and grass. it would keep you on the southside grassy terrain out of the washes and off of the delicate soil later beyond the drainages. t... more >>


Location: Utah : Zion National Park : Mount Carmel Tunnel : Headache Area : The Headache (5.10)
By: Sean When: Oct 18, 2016

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Comments: placed all cams, up to double BD #3, with extra 0.75 and #2. brought stoppers along but hadn't bothered with, not really needed


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Think Pink (5.11a)
By: Sean When: Oct 15, 2016

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Comments: also led with BD's, placing 0.4 to 0.75 for bottom section, then six #2's and three #3's. #3 Friends would be ideal, but manageable with the BD's


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Critic's Choice : Bunny Slope (5.9)
By: Sean When: Oct 15, 2016

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Comments: placed BD 0.5-0.75 at bottom, then three red #1 plus six yellow #2 with couple of mild runouts (or eight to keep reasonable). could add an optional #3 before the chains, but didn't feel like a must


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cathedral Spires Area : Higher Cathedral Rock : Braille Book (5.8+)
By: Sean When: Sep 17, 2016

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Comments: P4 10c variation is wild fantastic fun. the frontfacing roof directly above that finish goes at 5.9 or so, with dangling airy exposure. P6 up the daunting steep face via the improbable line of happy jugs also awesome cool


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (e) Maiden Buttress : The Illegitimate (5.9)
By: Sean When: Sep 10, 2016

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Comments: careful not to make the Illegitimate P2 arete/sideroof turn too early. about 20 ft before that, there are two closely spaced old fixed pins that lead up and right to the (awesome) roof of Zeno's Paradox and then up to that route's hard slab protected by two bolts. those fixed pins are not marked in book topo prob bec they're not actually part of Zeno's Paradox's crack and arch that comes in from... more >>


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Eastern Hills : Benton Crags : Crocodile Rock : Competitive Edge (5.10a)
By: Sean When: Sep 7, 2016

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Comments: 70 just long enough to get lowered if setting gear anchor at right bottom of summit block where "P1" ends. possible to descend without doing another short summit pitch, by going to the backside and coming down the first chimney to climber's left. 5.easy by staying to skier's left when it splits about halfway down (the right split cliffs out). could walk around (to stand just below Westside Fitness Center) to have a look at thi... more >>


Location: California : San Bernardino Mountains : Lake Arrowhead Area : Scot Rock
By: Sean When: Aug 17, 2016

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Comments: came across a baby rattler while going up The Tube that connects top of Scot Rock back up to the manzanitas plateau. close quarters with little room to step back. happened around mid-day on our way out. standard fare in the wild outdoors, of course. just a headsup. be careful out there


Location: California : Los Angeles Basin : Stoney Point : Back Wall : A-Frame Right (5.9)
By: Sean When: Aug 11, 2016

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Comments: absolutely, climb at Stoney only when dry. out there yesterday, after wks of 80+ and sometimes 90+ deg temps. figured dry enough

where on what climb did #10 hex break off a plate? would go have a look next time

for the record, i don't go around Stoney looking for every sketch seam or pin scar to lead. i only lead the few clean cracks, which i do enjoy now and then. those are all moderates. altho i do take lead falls, even on soft sandstone, and have done that els... more >>


Location: California : Los Angeles Basin : Stoney Point : Back Wall : A-Frame Right (5.9)
By: Sean When: Aug 11, 2016

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Comments: Guy's "bomber" placements weren't that or they wouldn't have all ripped out (no offense). i know those placements. i would never perceive them as bomber, not remotely. gear that stays put upon yank checks are only "solid" against your yanking force, which could be sustantially less than that of a big lead fall. but maybe "bomber" is used much m... more >>


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