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Member Since: Dec 18, 2004
Last Visit: 16 mins ago
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Point Rank: # 404
Total Points: 1,811

66 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 735 | Routes 73 | Areas 10 | Approach Trails | Photos 185 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 225 | Posts 88 | Stars 152 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Sheep Pass Area > Sheep Pass Group CG Area > Tech N9ne Cliff
By: Sean When: Dec 6, 2017

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Comments: don't park at the gate. the dirt area in front of the gate is quite small. even a single car would get in the way of NPS vehicles happening to go in or out through that gate. don't get cited with a hefty fine. the very nearby Small World spacious pullout with the display board is only a short couple mins walk away


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Lost Horse Area > Jimmy Cliff > Jimmy Cliff - East Face > Harder They Fall, The (5.10a)
By: Sean When: Nov 22, 2017

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Comments: descend by scrambling down to climber's right past the first giant ledge to the next lower ledge to access the rap anchor atop Dick Van Dyke. stay roped up and downlead the last bit if nec


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Lost Horse Area > Atlantis Area > Buddy Rock > Buddy Rocks (5.8)
By: Sean When: Oct 27, 2017

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Comments: cams to 1" with an optional #3


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Real Hidden Valley > The Sentinel > The Sentinel - East Face > Fote Hog (5.6)
By: Sean When: Oct 27, 2017

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Comments: stuck finger-sized cam with magenta/white sling in the right side one of the double thin cracks above the P1 belay. broken trigger wires. solidly wedged in, no budging. likely instrument of blunt force required to extricate


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Roadside Rocks > Red Burrito > Beef and Bean (5.10a)
By: Sean When: Oct 19, 2017

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Comments: cams up to 0.75. couple of helpful handjams up the very featured curving crack, but mostly steep jugs rather than crack jamming. straightforward to anchor into the bolted chains to climber's right atop Green Chile


Location: California > San Bernardino Mountains > Running Springs Area > Green Valley Lake Area > Crafts Peak > ... > Loan Me a Dime (5.10c)
By: Sean When: Oct 8, 2017

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Comments: same bolted rap hangers at the highest pinnacle top above Silence Of The Cams


Location: California > San Bernardino Mountains > Running Springs Area > Green Valley Lake Area > Crafts Peak > ... > Iceman (5.8)
By: Sean When: Oct 8, 2017

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Comments: there's now a lower set of bolted rap chains (not shown in Hidden Treasures 2002) right at the topout ledge of Right Untch Crack and Iceman, down and left from the pinnacle summit bolted rap hangers


Location: California > San Bernardino Mountains > Running Springs Area > Green Valley Lake Area > Crafts Peak > ... > Silence of the Cams (5.10d)
By: Sean When: Oct 8, 2017

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Comments: bolted rap hangers at the highest pinnacle top, as in you thread the rope through the extra beefy hangers that are designed for rapping off. don't add quicklinks or whatev else. and def don't add just one skinny quicklink to one of them and rap off of just that, turning a safe scenario into a sketch one


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Lost Horse Area > Atlantis Area > Minotaur Wall > Mystic Knights of the Sea (5.9)
By: Sean When: Sep 27, 2017

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Comments: felt about 10b if using only the upper left thin crack, and likewise if using only the right thin crack


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Real Hidden Valley > Real Hidden Valley Vicinity > Turtle Rock > ... > Photo
By: Sean When: Sep 27, 2017

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Comments: rap from that anchor is 90 ft


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Real Hidden Valley > Real Hidden Valley Vicinity > Turtle Rock > ... > Easy Day (5.4)
By: Sean When: Sep 27, 2017

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Comments: 90 ft from base to P1 bolted rap anchor where Ninja Turtle P1 also ends


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > The Outback > Steve Canyon Area > Steve Canyon > ... > Tennis Shoe Crack (5.8)
By: Sean When: Sep 24, 2017

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Comments: big cams now needed for topside gear anchor. the bolts directly above the topout are gone. new rap anchor now located to climber's right, all the way to the edge of the north face, down Wataneasy Route, presumably to better facilitate rap back to base for those topping out on Watanobe Wall. could now rap down that to a high shoulder and scramble around back to base of Tennis Shoe Crack


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Split Rocks > Cling or Fling Corridor > Cling or Fling (5.11a)
By: Sean When: Sep 23, 2017

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Comments: like the Route Description at the top says, Bartlett's book also indicates Cling Or Fling to be left of Green Mansions on the southside face of the corridor, starting from atop the same boulder as for Green Mansion (and for Lost Boys on the opposing face). if one enters the corridor via its more accessible westside entrance adjacent to Beautiful Dreamer, Cling Or Fling is near the middle of the RHS face. after the 4 bolts, it tops out at a horizontal just left of the rap slings atop Green ... more >>


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Split Rocks > Cling or Fling Corridor > Beautiful Dreamer (aka Gull... (5.8)
By: Sean When: Sep 19, 2017

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Comments: prior to climbing, if you walk about 30 ft to climber's left of the start, you could scope out a ledge system that comes diagonaling down and rightward to touch down a lil left of the start. after topping out, we scrambled down this way, with avail gear placements to protect any exposed moves if need. quicker than walking off all the way across the top and down the north side


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Split Rocks > Cling or Fling Corridor > Green Mansions (5.8)
By: Sean When: Sep 19, 2017

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Comments: heady start. no topside bolted rap anchor. but rap slings presently exist at topout, consisting of a worn webbing that should need replacing within a yr, a thin cord in decent shape, and a single somewhat small quicklink. next party might want to upgrade that with another webbing/cord and add a second small quicklink.


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Jumbo Rock Area > Cunning Rock, Southeast Fac... > Jarhead Central (5.10b)
By: Sean When: Sep 19, 2017

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Comments: interesting bare finger placements through the crux, or do the tape wrenching thing


Location: California > Sierra Eastside > Bishop Area > Pine Creek Canyon > Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... > ... > Sheila (5.10a/b)
By: Sean When: Jul 30, 2017

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Comments: led with a 70 from trailside base all the way to the shared anchor with Queen Of The Heartbreaks and Eclipsed (not to the slightly higher newer rap anchor closer to the dihedral) with about 15 ft to spare. a 60 might req a lil simul but not a big deal since that initial diagonal scramble and the diagonal finish to that anchor are both very easy. didn't need to trail a 2nd rope up, but left a 60 at base. once both on top, one person fixed 70 to rap down its single strand, ... more >>


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Live Oak Picnic Area > Jojoba Corridor > Jojoba Corridor, Northeast ...
By: Sean When: Jul 25, 2017

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Comments: Bartlett's Rock Climbs of Pinto Basin does cover the Jojoba Corridor.


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Live Oak Picnic Area > Jojoba Corridor
By: Sean When: Jul 25, 2017

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Comments: FYI, these corridor rocks are located down in a depression, so that their bottom half is out of sight from afar. only the top half is visible for much of the approach even after passing the Creeper Rocks. approx 7 mins further east past the Creeper Rocks.


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Live Oak Picnic Area > Abbey Rock > Desert Solitaire (5.7)
By: Sean When: Jul 24, 2017

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Comments: "...the strangeness and wonder of existence are emphasized here, in the desert, by the comparative sparsity of the flora and fauna: life not crowded upon life as in other places but scattered abroad in spareness and simplicity, with a generous gift of space for each herb and bush and tree, each stem of grass, so that the living organism stands out bold and brave and vivid against the lifeless sand and barren rock." EA


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Live Oak Picnic Area > Jojoba Corridor > Jojoba Corridor, Northeast ... > Jojoba Crack (5.9)
By: Sean When: Jul 24, 2017

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Comments: walked #4 to topout so that could be used for anchoring along with #3(s). scooted (likewise for Untamed World) downward to climber's right to a horizontal crack that wraps around into the narrow gully, then easy scramble down that gully.


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Live Oak Picnic Area > Creeper Rocks > North Creeper Rock > Finger Locking Good (5.7 R)
By: Sean When: Jul 24, 2017

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Comments: seems like it's a loose hefty oblong flake trapped inside the crack that rattles to make that rock section sound hollow, to sound worse than it actually is. the lip of the main slanting crack thereabout is solid

easiest walkoff is to climber's far right, down easy ledges and through a boulder tunnel to wrap back around to frontside


Location: California > San Bernardino Mountains > Big Bear Lake Area > Big Bear South > Sleepy Bear and Nightmare T... > ... > Nightmare Tower - West Face
By: Sean When: Jul 12, 2017

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Comments: there's only one bolted line of 4 bolts on the west face, up its center where Tri-Tip & Corn and Cornbread both start, with the upper two bolts on the narrow face btwn those two crack finishes. Cornbread's straight up finish is lichen covered and ho-hum. more fun to finish by staying just left of or up along those bolts, which coincides more with Tri-Tip & Corn. the drawn bolt line on the left side of this west face corresponding to Wrenched in Hidden Treasures East seems in error. t... more >>


Location: California > San Bernardino Mountains > Big Bear Lake Area > Big Bear South > Black Bluff > ... > Shooting Star (5.10b)
By: Sean When: Jun 8, 2017

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Comments: shares bolted rap chains with adjacent Powder Fingers to the left


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Wonderland of Rocks > Wonderland South > Central Wonderland > ... > Sanctuary (aka Book of Chan... (5.10b)
By: Sean When: May 28, 2017

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Comments: bolted rap anchor still sporting flimsy rolled aluminum rings. the bolts are just too far apart. measured with hand and arm, for future parties who might want to help upgrade and need the info. the left higher bolt could use a chain extension of approx 14 inches, and approx 5 inches for the right one. beefier rap rings or quicklinks would also be better


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