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Member Since: Dec 18, 2004
Last Visit: 19 hours ago
Contact Sean

Point Rank: # 549
Total Points: 1,415

54 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Sean been climbing?










Contributions


All 531 | Routes 42 | Areas 4 | Photos 149 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 187 | Posts 28 | Stars 120 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Great Burrito : Kemosabe and Tonto (5.9+)
By: Sean When: Dec 28, 2016

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Comments: anchor bolts left of topout now has slings with rap rings. rap with one 70m rope leaves about 5 ft to spare on each strand


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lost Horse Wall : Lost Horse Wall - Right Sid... : Altitude Sickness (5.10a)
By: Sean When: Dec 9, 2016

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Comments: if the start for The Swift is busy, could do an alternate P1 for Altitude Sickness further to climber's left and lower. start up two right-slanting cracks that later merge into one and continues slanting, left of and above a prominent dihedral ramp, passing a lil bush (crux with steep slopey feet). then the slanting crack straightens vertically near the end, leading up to the same P1 belay alcove ledge. 5.8 and approx 150 ft for this P1


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lost Horse Wall : Lost Horse Wall - Left Side : Hesitation Blues (5.10-)
By: Sean When: Dec 9, 2016

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Comments: this is really fun. the chossy bits here and there do detract somewhat, but easy enough to bypass those and opt for the solid rock. cool stems, sweet jams, and airy athletic jug rail (right split) finish. rap anchor is a single thick rope slung around rock top with rap rings, looking good at moment, but prob needs reinforcing with an additional long webbing/cord at some point


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Big Hunk : Big Hunk (Southwest Face) : Midnight Dreamer (5.9)
By: Sean When: Nov 22, 2016

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Comments: 3 bolts total (1 at start plus the finishing 2 on adjacent The Black Tuna), rack of doubles from 0.3 (green Aliens) to #1 (Red BD) plus single #2 and #3 plus stoppers


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Power Wall
By: Sean When: Nov 17, 2016

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Comments: the best approach trail to the Power Wall is about 50 ft more south of the Scarface downhill trailhead, on the same side of the road. this narrow but well-worn trail doesn't seem wide enough to ever been an old road. hard to see from afar at first, but it becomes more visible as you step close, with a flat walk off of the road onto dirt and grass. it would keep you on the southside grassy terrain out of the washes and off of the delicate soil later beyond the drainages. t... more >>


Location: Utah : Zion National Park : Mount Carmel Tunnel : Headache Area : The Headache (5.10)
By: Sean When: Oct 18, 2016

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Comments: placed all cams, up to double BD #3, with extra 0.75 and #2. brought stoppers along but hadn't bothered with, not really needed


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Think Pink (5.11a)
By: Sean When: Oct 15, 2016

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Comments: also led with BD's, placing 0.4 to 0.75 for bottom section, then six #2's and three #3's. #3 Friends would be ideal, but manageable with the BD's


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Critic's Choice : Bunny Slope (5.9)
By: Sean When: Oct 15, 2016

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Comments: placed BD 0.5-0.75 at bottom, then three red #1 plus six yellow #2 with couple of mild runouts (or eight to keep reasonable). could add an optional #3 before the chains, but didn't feel like a must


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cathedral Spires Area : Higher Cathedral Rock : Braille Book (5.8+)
By: Sean When: Sep 17, 2016

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Comments: P4 10c variation is wild fantastic fun. the frontfacing roof directly above that finish goes at 5.9 or so, with dangling airy exposure. P6 up the daunting steep face via the improbable line of happy jugs also awesome cool


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (e) Maiden Buttress : The Illegitimate (5.9)
By: Sean When: Sep 10, 2016

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Comments: careful not to make the Illegitimate P2 arete/sideroof turn too early. about 20 ft before that, there are two closely spaced old fixed pins that lead up and right to the (awesome) roof of Zeno's Paradox and then up to that route's hard slab protected by two bolts. those fixed pins are not marked in book topo prob bec they're not actually part of Zeno's Paradox's crack and arch that comes in from... more >>


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Eastern Hills : Benton Crags : Crocodile Rock : Competitive Edge (5.10a)
By: Sean When: Sep 7, 2016

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Comments: 70 just long enough to get lowered if setting gear anchor at right bottom of summit block where "P1" ends. possible to descend without doing another short summit pitch, by going to the backside and coming down the first chimney to climber's left. 5.easy by staying to skier's left when it splits about halfway down (the right split cliffs out). could walk around (to stand just below Westside Fitness Center) to have a look at thi... more >>


Location: California : San Bernardino Mountains : Lake Arrowhead Area : Scot Rock
By: Sean When: Aug 17, 2016

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Comments: came across a baby rattler while going up The Tube that connects top of Scot Rock back up to the manzanitas plateau. close quarters with little room to step back. happened around mid-day on our way out. standard fare in the wild outdoors, of course. just a headsup. be careful out there


Location: California : Los Angeles Basin : Stoney Point : Back Wall : A-Frame Right (5.9)
By: Sean When: Aug 11, 2016

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Comments: absolutely, climb at Stoney only when dry. out there yesterday, after wks of 80+ and sometimes 90+ deg temps. figured dry enough

where on what climb did #10 hex break off a plate? would go have a look next time

for the record, i don't go around Stoney looking for every sketch seam or pin scar to lead. i only lead the few clean cracks, which i do enjoy now and then. those are all moderates. altho i do take lead falls, even on soft sandstone, and have done that els... more >>


Location: California : Los Angeles Basin : Stoney Point : Back Wall : A-Frame Right (5.9)
By: Sean When: Aug 11, 2016

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Comments: Guy's "bomber" placements weren't that or they wouldn't have all ripped out (no offense). i know those placements. i would never perceive them as bomber, not remotely. gear that stays put upon yank checks are only "solid" against your yanking force, which could be sustantially less than that of a big lead fall. but maybe "bomber" is used much m... more >>


Location: California : Los Angeles Basin : Stoney Point : Back Wall : A-Frame Right (5.9)
By: Sean When: Aug 10, 2016

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Comments: don't know about the idea of this, or say Pothole Crack, or Freeway Crack shouldn't be led bec of the rock. they're all quite distinct crack lines, with massive dihedral faces to either side. these aren't like say Sculpture's Crack, where rock chunks could get blown out by fall catching pro in intermittent suspect crevices. on the upper dihedral of A-Frame Right, ripping out a cam would scratch... more >>


Location: California : Los Angeles Basin : Stoney Point : Sculpture's Crack Wall : Sculpture's Crack (5.10c)
By: Sean When: Aug 10, 2016

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Comments: no more than 40 ft tall, in case others also use shorter ropes like i do


Location:
By: Sean When: Aug 9, 2016

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Comments: Leave No Trace isn't that difficult a concept to grasp, or to at least make an effort to minimize the impact. as pointed out and which you still don't get, not that large a rock is needed to leave a reasonable warning with just "WASP" and "2 AUG", instd of a gigantic graffiti-like one with supersized letterings that you and others together left on the rock wall. one of the big flat rocks from th... more >>


Location:
By: Sean When: Aug 6, 2016

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Comments: large skeleton cartoon unnecessary. "WASP" and "2 Aug" would suffice; many rocks right there large enough for that


Location: California : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Mt. Gorgeous : Family Jewel (5.10c)
By: Sean When: Aug 3, 2016

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Comments: 7 lead bolts. anchor's two outside cold shuts now solid, with the middle one a lil loose

FYI a big handwritten warning in chalk from the day before on the wall at the start (maybe next time just write that on a large piece of rock and lean that against the base?) regarding a wasp nest high on the route. nest in a non-handhold hueco as noted in photo, already marked by chalk at its upper rim. no issue cranking past the nest on lead. wouldn't want to lo... more >>


Location: California : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) : Ending Crack (5.7 PG13)
By: Sean When: Jul 15, 2016

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Comments: P1 to the shared bolted rap anchor seems approx 130 ft, gauging by the middle mark of a 70


Location: California : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)
By: Sean When: Jul 15, 2016

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Comments: in summer (like today in July), the entire east-facing wall stays in the sun til 3 pm. the low-angled wall allows the overhead and just-past-overhead sun to keep shining on it. then finally into shade for rest of late afternoon

in winter (like today in Nov), the sun crosses the sky in a very low arc above the horizon, so that the wall stays in shade in early morning and doesn't get sun til 9 am, and does for only 2-3 hrs, before the sun gets past the top of the wall to cas... more >>


Location: California : San Bernardino Mountains : Running Springs Area : Deep Creek : Aztec Pond : ... : Bottle of Beer (5.8+)
By: Sean When: Jul 11, 2016

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Comments: south-facing, ie, left around the corner from east-facing 12POP


Location: California : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Lower Gibraltar
By: Sean When: Jul 4, 2016

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Comments: Lower Gibraltar indeed lower than Gibraltar Rock, not poorly named. even tho you have to continue uphill on the road past roadside Gibraltar Rock to the Lower Gibraltar pullout, the little trail from there down thru the manzanitas does descend far enough to Lower Gibraltar that, by then, you would be lower than Gibraltar Rock


Location: California : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Gibraltar Rock : The Ladder (5.6)
By: Sean When: Jul 4, 2016

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Comments: sit start from beneath to pull up and over the starting roof goes at about 5.9+


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Al's Garage : Triple Delight (5.10b)
By: Sean When: Jun 18, 2016

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Comments: Mammoth Area Rock Climbs 3rd edition rated this 5.10b, but the newest 4th edition has it at 5.9. gotten much easier in btwn editions? or typo?


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