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Rock Climbing Photo: Slot Machine in Squamish


Member Since: Sep 24, 2012
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact Sean Stoops

Sean Stoops
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Point Rank: # 6,182
Total Points: 87
Last Year: 59
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Sean Stoops been climbing?










Contributions


All 96 | Routes | Areas | Photos 15 | Page Improvements | Comments 12 | Posts 14 | Stars 54 | Ratings 1
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: Interior 2

Interior 2

Forums : ... :

Sep 27, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: Interior 1

Interior 1

Forums : ... :

Sep 27, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: Red Rock, NV

Red Rock, NV

Forums : ... :

Sep 27, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: Salomon Snow Blade SBten Snow Blades

Salomon Snow Blade SBten Snow Blades

Apr 28, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: Salomon Performa 6.0 Mens Ski Boots Size 13 (30.5)...

Salomon Performa 6.0 Mens Ski Boots Size 13 (30.5) Thermicfit

Apr 28, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: Photo 4

Photo 4

Apr 22, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: Photo 3

Photo 3

Apr 22, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: Photo 2

Photo 2

Apr 22, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: Photo 1

Photo 1

Apr 22, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: Looks like the top rap anchors have recently been ...

Looks like the top rap anchors have recently been freshened up a bit.

NV : Red Rock : ... : Children of the Sun (5.10b)

Feb 5, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: Start of P1.

Start of P1.

NV : Red Rock : ... : Prime Rib (5.7)

Dec 7, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: Magic mountain under a golden sunset on Sept 17th,...

Magic mountain under a golden sunset on Sept 17th, 2014.

NV : Red Rock : ... : Magic Mountain

Sep 17, 2014

Rock Climbing Photo: View of the storms blowing through Castle Valley f...

View of the storms blowing through Castle Valley from the top of Castleton Tower.

UT : Moab Area : ... : Castleton Tower

Aug 24, 2014

Rock Climbing Photo: Waiting for the storms to pass so we can start up ...

Waiting for the storms to pass so we can start up North Chimney.

UT : Moab Area : ... : Castleton Tower

Aug 24, 2014

Rock Climbing Photo: Slot Machine in Squamish

Slot Machine in Squamish

The People of Mountain Proj... : Sean Stoops : Profile

Nov 7, 2013

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Pauligk Pillar (5.7+)
By: Sean Stoops When: Oct 10, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I can confirm what Gary mentioned about the added stations. Thanks to whoever did that and got rid of the rats nest of slings!

We were still using 60m twins and when pulling the rope it didn't look like a single 60m would reach from the top to the next station down. 70m looks like it would though.

Also of note about the rope eating dragons, don't toss your rope down from the top as it seems that it will eventually slide down and pile up into the deep cra... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Crags : ... : PBR Street Gang (5.9+)
By: Sean Stoops When: Mar 28, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Climbed this as others have suggested by linking the last two pitches. It worked out really well. The roof is much mellower than it appears when you set out. If you're feeling iffy, there are at least three cam placements you can reach before lugging yourself over the edge. Immediately above the roof, then it's maybe 6ft of lieback up a wide crack before you can get a #2 in. If you think you'll feel sketched out here, bring a #5 or so and you can stitch it all the way up. Then leave ... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Crags : ... : Five Finger Discount (5.8+ R)
By: Sean Stoops When: Mar 28, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: My girlfriend led this last week (she's the slab climber, not me!) and it was pretty nice up till the bolts kind of ended in the middle of nowhere. Was it intended to just be a big runout from the last bolt up to the ledge? She ended up going right and joining the PBR P1 line which worked out fine.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Southern Outcrops : Chocolate Rocks : Mc-Crack-En (5.7)
By: Sean Stoops When: Mar 1, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Stick to the face toward the top, then cut over into the tunnel. This avoids having to walk all over a bunch of melon-sized rocks ready to tumble.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jackrabbit Buttress : The Black Pearl (5.9)
By: Sean Stoops When: Nov 24, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Take up a 20ft+ piece of webbing for the rap anchor anytime you climb this. We got up there to find two very brittle cords for the anchor. You could literally break them in half by a little bit of flexing! We made a new anchor with rope, but it's very exposed and thus weathers quickly.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Sandy Corridor : Chrysler Crack (5.9)
By: Sean Stoops When: Oct 14, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Tips on approach, anchor, descent:

- If you plan to lead it, the standard approach is alright. You'll have a couple 5th class moves for about a body length, but not terrible. Or consider Tyson's approach in the link below which takes you to the summit, then rap to the base using the bolts on top.

- If you plan to top rope it, definitely consider doing the approach Tyson mentions in the link below then rapping into the base. Getting to the top via the walk off left is very sketchy and exposed. ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Red Springs Rock Lower Tier... : Hans Soloing (5.4)
By: Sean Stoops When: Oct 13, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: For a beginner, I'd find somewhere else with higher quality rock. Placements here can definitely be found, but I'd say it's a bit challenging to protect given most horizontal cracks are crumbly.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Little Springs Crag : Super Glide (5.9+)
By: Sean Stoops When: Oct 13, 2014

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Comments: We didn't have the gear to protect this, so we just climbed Red Ships of Spain, set a top rope, then used I think a #2 or 3 to redirect to the top of this route.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Burlap Buttress : Millepede (5.10a)
By: Sean Stoops When: Oct 7, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: We started up this, but ended up on a variation where you stay left at the mini-roof. We rapped off this anchor. I saw a couple more bolts continuing up the crack above then into the broken varnish further up. I think we concluded this left version may be a touch stiffer than 10a.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Romper Room : Kindergarten Cop (5.7+)
By: Sean Stoops When: Oct 7, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Great route, but doesn't take much in the way of trad gear. I felt like I was sport climbing with a full rack. =) I think I used a couple pieces in the .3-.75 range and slung a couple chicken heads. As everyone else says, the anchors sneak up on you. Keep an eye our right for them!

We did this with a single 70m with a bunch of cordelette tied together on one end for a pull cord.


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