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Rock Climbing Photo: Chalking up on Reason To Be (5.11a).


Member Since: Dec 31, 2010
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact Sean Godwin

Point Rank: # 1,494
Total Points: 528
Last Year: 357
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
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Name Rating Location Comments Tick Date

Dances with Clams

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b (1 p) 

OR : Smith Rock : (u) Red Wall

Lead / Flash. Short, but interesting enough. Definitely gave me more to think about than I was expecting near the top.

Nov 13, 2016

Dirty Pinkos

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a (4 p) 

OR : Smith Rock : (u) Red Wall

Lead / Onsight. Sweet route! The traverse pitch was totally unique, and awesome. Wish it had been my turn to lead.

Nov 12, 2016

Cry Babies

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (1 p) 

OR : Smith Rock : (k) The Dihedrals

Lead / Onsight. Combined with Ginger Snap and made for a great warm-up. Pretty heady though. Someone has to follow to clean it (didn't know).

Nov 11, 2016

Ginger Snap

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (1 p) 

OR : Smith Rock : (k) The Dihedrals

Lead / Onsight. Meh. Short and only the second half involves actual climbing (it's also the bolted half). When combined with Cry Babies, becomes a great - but very heady - warm-up.

Nov 11, 2016

Moons of Pluto

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b (1 p) 

OR : Smith Rock : (q) Mesa Verde Wall

Lead / Flash. UNREAL! What a gorgeous arete. Knobs and nibs galore. Super thoughtful. Beautiful movement.

Nov 11, 2016

Screaming Yellow Zonkers

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b (1 p) 

OR : Smith Rock : (q) Mesa Verde Wall

Lead / Flash. This is a great route with a really fun middle section with nothing but knobs. I wasn't in the best mindset because of injury. I bet if I came back I'd be raving about it.

Nov 11, 2016

Trezlar

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a (2 p) 

OR : Smith Rock : (q) Mesa Verde Wall

Lead / Flash. Blah. Two stars because I know it's a nice climb, I just made it look like a 5.12. Wouldn't mind trying again when in a better head space. Good warm-up for the climbs to the right.

Nov 11, 2016

I am a Viking

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a (1 p) 

CO : Shelf Road : ... : Menses Prow

Lead / Onsight. Cool pockets at the beginning and an awesome flake section in the middle. Too bad about the middle ledge.

Oct 1, 2016

First Blood

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (1 p) 

CO : Shelf Road : ... : Menses Prow

Lead / Onsight. Honestly one of the best 5.8s I've ever done. Spectacular holds, fluid movement, and steep.

Oct 1, 2016

Menses

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b (1 p) 

CO : Shelf Road : ... : Menses Prow

Lead / Fell/Hung. Sweet route, but didn't have the juice to finish it. An endurance beast.

Oct 1, 2016

Block Party

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a (1 p) 

CO : Shelf Road : ... : Mural Wall

Lead / Onsight. A cool route with big holds, marred by poor bolting and anchor placenent.

Oct 1, 2016

Anguish and Fear

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a (1 p) 

CO : Shelf Road : ... : Mural Wall

Lead / Onsight. I probably would have enjoyed this more if the holds hadn't been then slightest bit damp (and therefore slimey limestone), and the anchor placement made sense.

Oct 1, 2016

Crynoid Corner

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (1 p) 

CO : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff

Lead / Onsight. Wowowow. Beautiful 5.7 up a corner crack system. Would warm up on this again in a heart beat.

Sep 30, 2016

Three-Quarter Ton

5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b (1 p) 

CO : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff

Lead / Onsight. 5.10c. Neat moves to a misery finish just before the anchor.

Sep 30, 2016

Animation aka Jaycene's Dance

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (1 p) 

CO : Boulder Canyon : Animal World

Lead / Onsight. What a great 5.8. Non-stop fun on big holds, and a sweet bulge finish.

Sep 25, 2016

Free Willie

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c (1 p) 

CO : Boulder Canyon : Animal World

Lead / Fell/Hung. Sad I don't have the stamina to finish this right now. A beautiful, overhung, juggy 11a with a wicked mantle finish. Would love to send this sometime.

Sep 25, 2016

Dyno 101

V3 6A (1 p) 

WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : ... : The Beach

Felt a little easy for a V3 dyno. The boulder looks made for this problem. Super sharp up top.

Sep 22, 2016

The Fin

V2 5+ (1 p) 

WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : ... : The Beach

Hard to believe this goes at the grade just looking at the problem. What an awesome V2. Felt burly because I didn't have the sequence dialed.

Sep 22, 2016

The Wave

V1 5 (1 p) 

WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : ... : The Beach

ONSIGHT. Super aesthetic and fun moves, but left me wanting more because it felt short.

Sep 22, 2016

U2

V3 6A (1 p) 

WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : ... : The Beach

ONSIGHT. Super happy to onsight this one, but it wasn't my favourite. The crimps up top were worse than they looked!

Sep 22, 2016

Brickwork

V0 4 (1 p) 

WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : ... : The Beach

ONSIGHT. 4 star boulder, 0 star topout.

Sep 22, 2016

Basic Black

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : (b) Red Tail South

Lead / Onsight. ONSIGHT. More engaging than the climbs on the left and right. I liked the lip at the end.

Sep 9, 2016

Father's Day

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : Claim It All

Lead / Onsight. ONSIGHT. A great 5.9, but maybe should warm the fingers up next time!

Sep 5, 2016

'S Cool Wall

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : (b) Kid's Cliff

Lead / Onsight. ONSIGHT. I remember liking this one, but unfortunately don't remember too much about it.

Sep 4, 2016

Generation Gap

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : (b) Kid's Cliff

Lead / Onsight. ONSIGHT. Good, vertical stuff.

Sep 4, 2016

Highlander

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : (b) Kid's Cliff

Lead / Onsight. ONSIGHT. My crux was around the fifth bolt, but between the first and second bolt is genuinely difficult for shorter people. Super crimpy, but decent mini ledges for feet to rest on.

Sep 4, 2016

Treasure in the Lichen

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : (d) Upper Red Tail

Lead / Redpoint. REDPOINT. 5.11a. At least in the book. Fell wildly before the first clip which was interesting. First third was incredible, second third was cruxy, but the third third was disappointing easy climbing and seemed unnecessary.

Sep 4, 2016

Grassy Glades

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : Grassy Glades

Lead / Onsight. ONSIGHT. I want to give this more stars because I recognize it's a great climb. I just need to get better at trad so I'm not running it out 25 ft and shitting myself.

Sep 3, 2016

Dogmatism

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : (b) Red Tail South

Lead / Onsight. ONSIGHT. A good warmup, but nothing too memorable.

Sep 3, 2016

Tradition

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : (b) Red Tail South

Lead / Flash. FLASH. Kind of interesting but again, nothing special. Crux at the top might have had me if I didn't know to go left instead of right at the super chalkex holds.

Sep 3, 2016

Diedre

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (6 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : The Apron

Lead / Onsight. ONSIGHT. First multipitch trad route. First time on The Chief. First time having half a toe poke out of a shoe. First time nearly sitting myself. Super easy, but I need to take a trad fall.

May 3, 2016

Centurion

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b (6 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : The Outpost

Lead / Onsight. ONSIGHT. Mostly not my type of climbing, with a lot of slab pitches. P4 (5.10c) was the money pitch. Great exposure and solitude.

Mar 30, 2016

Neverendum

5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : Claim It All

Lead / Onsight. ONSIGHT. Surprisingly fun. Crux was just above Broadway. The 10d grade in the book felt soft.

Mar 27, 2016

Stubborn Streak

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : Claim It All

Lead / Onsight. ONSIGHT. Might have just been because I was cold and tired, but I didn't think this was great. Thin holds for a 10b above Broadway.

Mar 27, 2016

Cytotoxic

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : East Face

Lead / Onsight. ONSIGHT. Easy, fun climbing leads to a ledge before the overhang with seemingly nothing to work with. A lot of trust put in feet and bad hands. Not as sustained as the book claims.

Mar 26, 2016

Light Duty Power Pack

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : Werbworld

Lead / Fell/Hung. HD. This would be a hard send for me. Would need to get the sequence down pat and book it. Genuinely fun, but pumpy as all hell.

Mar 26, 2016

Faint Hope Claws

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : Claim It All

Lead / Onsight. ONSIGHT. This gets really thin 2/3 way up. Kev LOVED this, and maybe I would have too on a different day.

Mar 26, 2016

Cockasian Blend

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : (d) Little White

Lead / Redpoint. REDPOINT. Took me five attempts over three days, but it was worth every moment. My favourite 11a ever. Pumpy, technical, sequency - this climb has it all. Figuring out the crux near the top and pulling it off during the send was pure satisfaction.

Mar 25, 2016

Thumbstruck

5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : Grassy Glades

Lead / Redpoint. REDPOINT. One hard move between first and second bolt, and it makes for awkward climbing. Rest of the climb is 10d ish. Felt soft for the book's 11b grade. The undercling/sidepull section two thirds of the way up is cool.

Mar 25, 2016

Brilliant Pebbles

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : Grassy Glades

Lead / Redpoint. REDPOINT. Slipped midway on a previous trip, but warmed up on it this time around and thoroughly enjoyed it. Smaller holds, smooth moves, good feet, and vertical.

Mar 25, 2016

Toxic

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c (1 p) 

OR : Smith Rock : (d) Aggro Gully

Lead / Redpoint. REDPOINT. Unlike any other route I've climbed a Smith. Great holds that are are apart, but super thoughtful sequence that I needed to have dialed.

Mar 20, 2016

Honey Pot

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a (1 p) 

OR : Smith Rock : (a) Picnic Lunch Wall

Lead / Onsight. ONSIGHT. Did this as a warm-up and loved it. Gets the fingers going with no pump or strain. Intuitive movements and really cool, knobby holds.

Mar 18, 2016

Headless Horseman

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b (1 p) 

OR : Smith Rock : (i) The Fourth Horseman

Lead / Onsight. ONSIGHT. Great route. Felt like a hard Gorgeous (5.10b ORG). Loved the easy trad start. Hardest parts were crossing the aretes.

Mar 18, 2016

Barbecue The Pope

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b (1 p) 

OR : Smith Rock : ... : Christian Brothers - East S...

Lead / Onsight. ONSIGHT. 5.10c. Sandbagged and runout, which is fine if the bolts are well placed, but these aren't. Tons of little holds, so the movement is short and disjointed. Very sustained though, which is redeeming.

Mar 18, 2016

Black Mark

V4 6B (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : Grand Wall Boulders

This took me a few tries, but it's only about one big move. I actually really liked the whole problem. Fun movements and a really high foot.

Feb 25, 2016

Dyke Surfer

V0 4 (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : Grand Wall Boulders

I didn't feel like this was anything special. Just a couple moves and they weren't particularly interesting.

Feb 25, 2016

Slingshot

V2 5+ (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : Grand Wall Boulders

Just an awesome problem. Reasonably long, intuitive, interesting moves, and a distinct crux. Felt a little easy compared to other Squamish V2s, but might just be my height.

Feb 25, 2016

Green Wall Essential

V2 5+ (1 p) 

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Green Wall Boulder

V3. To me at least. Sharp crimps and polished footholds. Such cool rock.

Feb 13, 2016

King Tut

V3 6A (1 p) 

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Tut Boulder

Almost pooped myself when I got up on the slab and saw there were no holds. I might have enjoyed this more if I had any skin left on my fingers.

Feb 13, 2016

Funky Tut

V3 6A (1 p) 

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Tut Boulder

Sweet release upon hitting the jug. Really have to get those feet right. My raw tips cried.

Feb 13, 2016

Problem B

V0- 4- (1 p) 

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Green Wall Boulder

ONSIGHT. A warm-up, but it's really just the down climb.

Feb 13, 2016

Child of Light

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (1 p) 

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Great Wall of China

ONSIGHT. I thought this was great. I liked it better than Heart of the Sun, but maybe just because of conditions. Tons of solid holds, but still felt like good movement was needed.

Feb 12, 2016

Sendero Luminoso

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R (1 p) 

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Solarium

ONSIGHT. Not a fan. Some interesting sections - and a really abrupt change of pace with the slab at the end - but the whole thing seemed disjointed and unnecessarily dangerous. You're dead if you hit your head at the second bolt and fall.

Feb 12, 2016

Humbly, Mumbly, Jumbly

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b (1 p) 

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Warm Up Wall

ONSIGHT. I probably wouldn't be able to explain why I liked this so much. Probably just right climb, right time. Hard start followed by an awesome juggy experience the whole way up.

Feb 12, 2016

Knucko's Pride of the North

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c (1 p) 

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Gorgeous Towers

HD. Not being able to send this was honestly the only disappoint of the trip. It's awesome. Almost onsighted it on the third day, but I slipped after the final crux. Tried three times on the fifth day, but couldn't get to the rest. Send this next time.

Feb 12, 2016

Crowd Pleaser

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (1 p) 

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Warm Up Wall

ONSIGHT. It was okay. Nice way to cool down. Kind of reminded me of China Doll, with almost too many good holds and slightly boring climbing.

Feb 12, 2016

Hero Roof

V0 4 (1 p) 

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Hero Roof Boulder

ONSIGHT. Wow! What a V0. Heroic.

Feb 11, 2016

Buttermilk Stem

V1 5 (1 p) 

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Buttermilk Stem Boulder

It's interesting and unique, so I can see why it's considered a local classic. Didn't do much for me though.

Feb 11, 2016

The Rising

V4- 6B (1 p) 

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : The Loaf

ONSIGHT. V3. I would love to call this a V4, but there's no way I could onsight a v4 right now. Really sharp and desperate for me at the crux. Very satisfying send. The top gets the blood pumping.

Feb 11, 2016

Birthday Direct

V3 6A (1 p) 

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Birthday Boulders

Pretty darn cool. Needed to figure out the sequence to unlock it (right hand first, left foot up to starting hold). Finished with no one around, which was super satisfying.

Feb 11, 2016

China Doll

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (1 p) 

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Great Wall of China

It was nice, but almost felt boring because of its abundance of identical holds and movements.

Feb 9, 2016

Heart of the Sun

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (1 p) 

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Great Wall of China

ONSIGHT. Surprisingly good climbing for such a steep 5.9. Hard to see the chalked holds in the sun!

Feb 9, 2016

Gorgeous

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b (1 p) 

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Gorgeous Towers

ONSIGHT. So aesthetic. Harder moves, but not pumpy at all. Striking route on a standout tower.

Feb 9, 2016

Happy Hooker

V0+ 4+ (1 p) 

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : More Water, Less Power Boul...

ONSIGHT. V1. Felt hard at the top-out!

Feb 8, 2016

Clip Jr.

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b (1 p) 

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Warm Up Wall

ONSIGHT. Best 5.6 I've ever been on. Vertical in many spots, with lots of holds. Not just slabby bullshit like most 5.6s.

Feb 7, 2016

Wedge-O

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b (1 p) 

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Banana Belt

ONSIGHT. Absolutely gorgeous. Positive holds, pumpy with good rests, really aesthetic, and super long!

Feb 7, 2016

Nothern Lite

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (1 p) 

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Banana Belt

Technical for a 5.7, which was cool.

Feb 7, 2016

Babushka

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (1 p) 

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Warm Up Wall

ONSIGHT. Really nice. Big holds with fluid movements. First two bolts very reminiscent of Five Gallon Buckets in Smith.

Feb 7, 2016

Love Stinks

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c (1 p) 

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Banana Belt

ONSIGHT. Super stoked about this one. Crux in the first half, then once the technical stuff is out of the way, nothing but pump to the finish.

Feb 7, 2016

Titanic

V3 6A (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : Grand Wall Boulders

After much dicking about with heel hooks and ugly moves to avoid pulling so much on the shitty starting crimps, I finally just went for the big right hand move like I'd seen in youtube videos. Sent first try with that beta.

Jan 24, 2016

Crackhead

V3 6A (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : Grand Wall Boulders

Took a while but it felt so good when it went. What a beautiful problem. Hard to believe a v3 can be that overhung with no jugs.

Jan 10, 2016

Squamish Days

V0 4 (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : Grand Wall Boulders

ONSIGHT. Cute little problem with interesting top out in the snow.

Jan 10, 2016

Rocksteady

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (1 p) 

AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtle...

ONSIGHT. Schmeh. Semi-interesting top section, but nothing special. Reasonably good warm-up area that's warm in the morning and close to the highway.

Nov 14, 2015

Paradox Lost

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (1 p) 

AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Paradox Rock

ONSIGHT. 5.9. A fun warm-up that didn't feel like a warm-up for the last bolt (see: beached whale).

Nov 13, 2015

Arizona Flyways

5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a (1 p) 

AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Anduriel Tower

HD. 5.11c. Can't wait to get on this again. Sustained, hard, and beautiful movement, this route has it all. Two cruxes and two hangs.

Nov 13, 2015

Steve's Arete

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c (1 p) 

AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Hunchback Pinnacle

REDPOINT. This route is completely bananas. A contender for my favourite climb of all time. Had to get the beta right at the top, and skipped the last bolt!

Nov 12, 2015

Space Cowboy

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a (1 p) 

AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Wind Wall

HD. I will never get on this again. Absolutely nothing redeeming about it. Contrived, poor bolting, and not sustained at all.

Nov 12, 2015

Dead Pool

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (1 p) 

AZ : Central Arizona : ... : The Pond

ONSIGHT. A good intro to the pocketed rock of Queen Creek Canyon, but I found it hard to put moves together because of the multitude of (albeit neat) pockets.

Nov 11, 2015

Pocket Puzzle

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a (1 p) 

AZ : Central Arizona : ... : The Pond

ONSIGHT. Unreal. How this goes at 5.10a I still don't know. Sightly overhung throughout with awesome (and sometimes hidden) holds. Can understand how this is a total classic.

Nov 11, 2015

The Big Weld Show

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c (1 p) 

AZ : Central Arizona : ... : The Pond

HD. Definitely want to try again. Hard for the middle half. I got super pumped on the monos and pockets. Probably need to figure out the sequence before sending.

Nov 10, 2015

Puppy Chow

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (1 p) 

AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Lost Hawk

ONSIGHT. Doesn't get much better than this for a 5.8. A++ would warm up again. Exposed and glorious.

Nov 9, 2015

Chihuahua Power

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (1 p) 

AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Lost Hawk

ONSIGHT. Brilliant face climb. Really cool holds - including crazy crystal pebbles - and a couple thoughtful bulges.

Nov 9, 2015

The Golden Egg

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (1 p) 

AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Goosehead

ONSIGHT. Cool rock in an awesome setting. Fairly straightforward face climbing with quality holds after an initial crack section. Very fun.

Nov 9, 2015

Ego Donor

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a (1 p) 

AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Swim Fin

ONSIGHT. 5.10a. This felt super stiff, but I loved it nonetheless. Very sustained, with a ruthless first three bolts.

Nov 8, 2015

Nang

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b (1 p) 

AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : North Fin

ONSIGHT. Not good on the toes and nerves. A little bit of everything, with slab, overhanging positive holds, and a terrifying 'walk off'. Glad I did it, but never again.

Nov 8, 2015

Grab em in Da Biscuits

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (1 p) 

AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Swim Fin

ONSIGHT. Expecting a slabby shitty warm-up, but I enjoyed this route. The moves through the bulge were fun.

Nov 8, 2015

Tony The Tiger

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : (b) Go-Anywhere

ONSIGHT. A mediocre warm-up.

Oct 18, 2015

Bottom Line

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : Tottering Pillar

REDPOINT. A completely mind-blowing climb. No individual moves are above a 10c, but it goes on forever. Pumpy and glorious.

Oct 17, 2015

Tethera

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : South Face

ONSIGHT. No point to this climb in my opinion. Ugly and contrived.

Oct 17, 2015

Earth Boys

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b (1 p) 

OR : Smith Rock : ... : Christian Brothers - East S...

ONSIGHT. Funny route with super chalked decoy holds, a sweet juggy horizontal crack, a swing over an areete, and a 5.6 slab finish.

Oct 11, 2015

5 Gallon Buckets

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (1 p) 

OR : Smith Rock : (g) Morning Glory Wall

REPEAT. Best 5.8 I've ever had the pleasure of climbing, hands down.

Oct 11, 2015

Hissing Llamas

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (1 p) 

OR : Smith Rock : ... : (3) Phoenix

REPEAT. So nice. I love the crux layback section.

Oct 11, 2015

Reason To Be

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c (1 p) 

OR : Smith Rock : (q) Mesa Verde Wall

REDPOINT. 5.11a. Beautiful little arete on fantastic rock. Sharp crimps and left hand arete slapping. Super delicate moves that need body tension and high, bad feet. Awesome.

Oct 10, 2015

Phantasmagoria

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b (1 p) 

OR : Smith Rock : (u) Red Wall

ONSIGHT. Spicy first two bolts and unrelenting technical climbing on small holds. Hard to believe it goes at the grade, but it does! Excellent.

Oct 9, 2015

Morning Sky

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b (1 p) 

OR : Smith Rock : (g) Morning Glory Wall

ONSIGHT. Ew. Unnecessarily dangerous first bolt and run-out for the bolt after. Awkward, annoying movement on shitty holds, with a distracting 5.7 jugfest in the middle.

Oct 9, 2015

Wherever I May Roam

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (5 p) 

OR : Smith Rock : ... : (6) Northwest Face

ONSIGHT. The last three pitches are where it's at. P3 is unreal. Rappel needs a 70m rope!

Oct 9, 2015

Charlotte's Web

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (2 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : Conroy's Castle

ONSIGHT. Really interesting, white-striped rock with good crimps, high feet, and fluid slab movements.

Oct 5, 2015

Star Chek

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (3 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : Galaxy Buttress

ONSIGHT. Easy, exposed climb up an arete. Gorgeous view. Two star climb, five star experience.

Oct 5, 2015

Bonfire

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : The Terraces

ONSIGHT. A couple nice moves right in the middle, but top and bottom leave something to be desired.

Sep 27, 2015

Mea Culpa

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (1 p) 

North America : Canada : ... : (g) Tippling Tower

ONSIGHT. What a nutty climb. The whole thing feels like an adventure. Super varied climbing on what seems like a pile of choss. Came off with a huge smile on my face.

Sep 26, 2015

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