REI Community

Member Since: Jun 30, 2003
Last Visit: Sep 24, 2017
Contact Scott Bilyeu

Point Rank: # -none-
Total Points: 0

0 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3

Where has Scott Bilyeu been climbing?


All 15 | Routes | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 7 | Posts 6 | Stars 2 | Ratings

Contributed Comments


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower One > Super Slab (5.10+)
By: Scott Bilyeu When: Sep 14, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: Awesome!!! Every pitch is of excellent quality. The TCU is still fixed at the crux and is not going anywhere. I found the first pitch to be more strenuous and sustained, had a good flash pump going by the time I hit the belay ledge. The last pitch is just fun slab with maybe 3 tough moves. Save a red Alien for the huge pocket after you traverse left and before you pull through the headwall. It fits in the bottom of the pocket to the left and you don't get anymore gear for a while after. Enjoy!

Location: Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > Little Eiger > Bush Administration (5.10b/c)
By: Scott Bilyeu When: Sep 10, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: Nice new line. Crux makes you think a little but not too hard for us short people. I'd call it 10a.

Location: Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > Little Eiger > Busch Gardens (5.10)
By: Scott Bilyeu When: Sep 10, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: Very nice route! Fun roof move and another fun bulge after that. Thanks Thor for putting in the time, effort and expense.

Location: Colorado > South Platte > Cathedral Spires Area > Cynical Pinnacle > Center Route (5.9+)
By: Scott Bilyeu When: Nov 21, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: My partner belayed in the pod after the bolt on pitch #2. I climbed past him into a pod just above him and he handed the rack up to me. As long as you don't drop the rack, it works much better than the cluster in lower pod.

The mileage description in the South Platte guide was wrong by quite a bit. Coming from road just north of Conifer, take a right on the dirt road. Stop at the first pullout on the right. I forget how far the book said to drive, but it was a couple miles shorter than that.

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - S Buttress > Anthill Direct (5.9- R)
By: Scott Bilyeu When: Sep 2, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: A good route but not great. Do the 5.9 section of the 5th pitch. Very fun!!

I skipped th 5.6s section because it was wet. Went around to the right side of the arete and then traversed back in on the ledge up higher. Do not recommend it though as there is a lot of loose stuff and you are right above your belayer at times.

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Rincon > Rincon - L of Center Route > Over and Out (5.8)
By: Scott Bilyeu When: Aug 5, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: What a great route!!! The first pitch is just fun moves with great gear. The hand traverse is pretty wild and then feast your eyes on the sweet 20-foot hand crack. Jam that or run the finger crack in the corner. Take your pick. For the second pitch, I've done both the 5.8 dihedral and the 5.9 finger crack up the face. Both are good but the 5.9 is amazing. Rossiter's book calls it one of the best 5.9s anywhere; I'd agree. The thing eats mid-size nuts and Aliens. The 5.8 is super fun too, thoug... more >>

Location: Colorado > South Platte > Pine Area > Sphinx Rock > Locksmith aka Dihedral Rout... (5.9)
By: Scott Bilyeu When: Jun 30, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: Fun, fun, fun!!! The top of the second pitch is pretty stiff but you can sew it up with nuts and Aliens. I got a #3 Camalot into the back to the chimney on the first pitch where it narrows down, a #3.5 or #4 might work better though. The whole thing is easily done in a single 90 foot pitch. Enjoy!

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · Contact · About