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Rock Climbing Photo: The Shield


Member Since: Apr 9, 2006
Last Visit: Nov 29, 2016
Contact Sam Lightner, Jr.

Sam Lightner, Jr.
is a member of
Point Rank: # 268
Total Points: 2,465
Last Year: 120
Last 30 Days: 0
176 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Sam Lightner, Jr. been climbing?










Sam Lightner, Jr.

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 1494 | Routes 79 | Areas 28 | Photos 203 | Page Improvements | Comments 240 | Posts 860 | Stars 84 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Comfortably Numb (5.10)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jun 11, 2008

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Comments: I think Kalous, AKA The SAG, did the F.A.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Which One's Pink? (5.11-) : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jun 9, 2008

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Comments: Most people hold the Ute and the Old Cowboys in high honor cus they were a long time ago... if you were alive then, they would just be doing graffiti.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Which One's Pink? (5.11-) : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jun 7, 2008

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Comments: I believe this to be a nice bit of AMerican climbing culture. The fact that it is done in a place famous for its rock etchings is really cool. No Allen, I don't subscribe to the idea that everyone should do this everyplace, but I think its pretty cool that its done here in the desert. One hundred years from now people will look at the walls and see Fremont culture, Ute culture, the odd cowboy culture, and then us.... thats kinda cool.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Long Canyon : Longs Canyon Tower : The Tiff (5.10a C2- PG13)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: May 25, 2008

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Comments: Here is the deal with this...
Jason and I saw an anchor about 60 feet up on this tower. We decided to try the route... its a really solid bolt ladder. However, when we go on the second pitch we saw no sign that anyone had ever been there. Lots of loose rock needed to be cleaned away, no fixed anchors (unlike the first pitch), and generally soft and loose up high. We needed a couple of fixed pieces to do it. We both figure there are lots of climbers out there who could have climbed the route with... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Fickle Finger of Fate : Moonwalker (5.9 C1+)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: May 15, 2008

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Comments: Powerful Jim has been climbing around here since the Colorado Plateau was a coastline. He was completely shocked about how easy they snapped... you were on A5 dude, you just didn't know it.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Escalante Canyon : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: May 5, 2008

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Comments: Nice venom glands. Sexy.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : The Academy : Alternative Education (5.8 PG13)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: May 1, 2008

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Comments: Damn autofill... ok, its one or three pitches... depending on how you plan to get to it and down from it.
Don't test me John! Its 7:06 and I've been in the bottle!!!

thats one of those LOL things.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : The Academy : Hot For Teacher (5.9)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Apr 30, 2008

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Comments: I actually went up on this tower hoping to find some hidden slot with a few cool cracks... the mirrors of the cracks that are on its front side. What I found was what I think will be a great route for aspiring tower climbers. ITs got short pitchs, its relatively solid, and the climbing is pretty easy. It definately gets you to a summit.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Fickle Finger of Fate : Moonwalker (5.9 C1+)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Apr 26, 2008

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Comments: Powerful Jim and I did this thing yesterday. We had been told by a friend that the 1/4 inch studs were sketchy... his partner broke one under body weight. For this reason we went prepared to replace some. I tested the first one off the ledge and it snapped-off on the first tug... dido second one. I was then able to break every studd (Funkenss just broke them) with less than three taps of the hammer. Not whacks, taps. We ended up replacing all the studs with 3.8 studs and a couple of halfies to k... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : South Sixshooter : South Face (5.7) : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Apr 25, 2008

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Comments: Thanks Nate... you need to look me up when your down here next.
Beagle, whoever you are, I promise that when I am done replacing anchors in various places, there will still be ten times that many left that you can go out and risk your ass, leave behind excessive amounts of equipment that will break down in 4 months, and that land managers and non climbers find offensive. Enjoy them... they will be here for as long as we will.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : South Sixshooter : South Face (5.7) : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Apr 24, 2008

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Comments: I forgot the other link to hold them together... so I used the one that was on the anchor I removed. The link is there to keep the longer chain from blowing in the wind and marring the rock. I'm trying to do all of the anchors this way now.
Thanks for the support.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : South Sixshooter : South Face (5.7) : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Apr 23, 2008

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Comments: To each his own, but "was" was 200 feet of tat wrapped around a boulder on a sloping ledge that was getting grooved out because of the angle of the pull and that tended to force the rope into said groves or into a crack.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Aging Salesman (5.11+ PG13)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Apr 2, 2008

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Comments: After coming back to this route following an ascent of Wildflower, I have added a star. Its a two star route. However, if you compare it to Powders or Wildflower, its a four star route. My stars are compared to other routes NOT on Bridger Jack Butte. This is probably the second best route on the Butte... which tells you something about this rock.

The only people who rappel Wildflower now should be King of Pain ascenders and bailers. This is definately the best rap route. The chains are just bel... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Wild Flower (5.10a)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Apr 2, 2008

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Comments: WIthout question the third pitch of this thing is harder than Vision Quest. Ten-a is a complete sandbag.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Moab Rim Area : Disappearing Angel : Disappearing Angel (5.8 C1)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Mar 25, 2008

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Comments: I was updating the anchor this morning and I suffered a loss. After drilling the first hole, I absentmindedly clipped my drill into the wrong piece of sling on the anchor... it was only tied in with an overhand or something. Anyway, Hanoi-Hilti-II took the 100 footer. He is no more.
So, there is one 1/2 inch by 4 inch stainless with chain at the anchor... it works with the ratty slings and is certainly stronger than the 1/4 inch stardrive and baby angle that is the previous anchor.

The route i... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : South Sixshooter : South Face (5.7)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Mar 15, 2008

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Comments: The rappels have been updated. The second one, from the top of the second pitch to the ground, is a true 31 meters. That is to say, your feet will be on the ground and the the rope will pull through the device when you are done. A true 60 meter rope is perfect... a rope that has a had a few meters cut off will leave you with a short drop.

This anchor WAS about 250 feet of tat, some of it probably 20 years old, strung around decaying boulders on a decaying ledge. Its now two half inch bolts in o... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : Fourth Of July Crack (Hard ... (5.12a)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Mar 8, 2008

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Comments: It was late 70's for Paul and Todd. I believe it was considered the hardest rock climb in Wyoming at the time.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Aging Salesman (5.11+ PG13)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Mar 7, 2008

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Comments: It was hard to believe someone hadn't been there before... now we know you were. I also did not get the free ascent. Josh and I got on this thing last year after he and Zach had begun working it and abandoned it like 5 years ago. Josh and I got to the summit, but I fell in t he stemming corner and he fell going out the right side of the roof. Those guys went back last week and finished it up cleanly.

The name stems from Josh. Zach came up with it. Josh is continuously sellinig us on his routes,... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Moab Rim Area : Moab Rim Trail Towers : Super Seam (5.10+ A3 PG13)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Mar 1, 2008

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Comments: I intended to take this line to the summit of the butte/knob. However, about 75 feet up, where it looked like the crack opened, it actually closed down and the seam filled with sand. It could be done, but for me it would require a lot of bolts. Maybe the super-aid guys, like Chris Kalous, could pull it off.
As per the rating, I really don't know how to rate aid. The pins might catch you and they might not... its hard to know unless you fall on them. However, I can say that hanging on peckers on ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Park Avenue : Candelabrum-Hall of Flame (5.11d A2)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Feb 27, 2008

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Comments: Kalous and I did this thing yesterday. Nice day in the desert, but I think two stars is generous. The place is beautiful, as are almost all towers in Arches, but the climbing is not too good.
We cleaned up the years of tat. The rap on the back side makes it to the ledge so barely that you actually drop the last foot... this means you need to hang on to the pulling side of the rope cus it flies up about 10 feet above you when you drop away (stretch).
Soft first pitch is decievingly hard. Mid pitc... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : Monitor and Merrimac Buttes : Monitor Butte, The Plunge (5.7 A2)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Feb 22, 2008

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Comments: A big "NO" to electric drills.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : Monitor and Merrimac Buttes : Monitor Butte, The Plunge (5.7 A2)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Feb 22, 2008

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Comments: You are probably right and my comment is probably wrong. I thought they were also opposed to fixed anchors... which I am for. I'm gonna look it up.
I'm back
Well, what I found was that SUWA doens't come out and say anything about climbing speicifically, but they do seem to take a view of wilderness being somethign you look at and don't touch. I foudn a number of instances where they grouped us all together like this:
" Drill rigs, bulldozers, off-road vehicles (ORVs) and even hikers are pushing ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : Monitor and Merrimac Buttes : Monitor Butte, The Plunge (5.7 A2)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Feb 21, 2008

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Comments: Steve... dont throw out the baby with the bath water. The SUWA would just as soon get rid of us as they would the clowns ho made that mess. This probelm is being addressed by the BLM with their new Recreation Management Plan.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : Monitor and Merrimac Buttes : Monitor Butte, The Plunge (5.7 A2)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Feb 19, 2008

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Comments: Silly Boy Brad... Those aren't Jeep Tracks, they are Sand Circles, the desert equivelant to Iowa Crop Circles.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Devil's Golf Ball : Regular Route (5.9 C1)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Feb 15, 2008

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Comments: The anchor is a little hard to find... its on the back side and goes of the south face. Bomber. Big bolts and chain.
I would call this thing 5.10-,C1, but I would add that the move at the start to get to the hand crack is spicy. No way to get anything in and the fall is substantial. Once you get to the crack, its mostly hands and wide fingers with good footholds... till the bolt ladder.


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