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Rock Climbing Photo: The Shield


Member Since: Apr 9, 2006
Last Visit: 6 days ago
Contact Sam Lightner, Jr.

Sam Lightner, Jr.
is a member of
Point Rank: # 268
Total Points: 2,465
Last Year: 120
Last 30 Days: 0
176 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Sam Lightner, Jr. been climbing?










Sam Lightner, Jr.

 
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Contributions


All 1494 | Routes 79 | Areas 28 | Photos 203 | Page Improvements | Comments 240 | Posts 860 | Stars 84 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Cottontail Tower : West Side Story (5.9 C3) : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Nov 14, 2011

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Comments: Paint.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Chimney (5.9) : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Oct 28, 2011

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Comments: If you tell yourself "the bolt will catch me", you are putting yourself at great risk of falling to a ledge, hitting your belayer and breaking her arm, falling off her and factor 1.5ing the anchor and leaving a bloody mess dripping down the first pitch and onto the party following you. You will then rap off, get your rope stuck, and walk painfully and dejectedly on the ankle that you realize is broken, to the parking area and then subjected to the crass old nurse with the thick glasses in the M... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : State Highway 313 : Red Rocket Tower- Afternoon... (5.11+ C1 PG13)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jun 2, 2011

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Comments: Nicely done Billiam.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : The Academy : Hot For Teacher (5.9)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Apr 17, 2011

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Comments: Huh.... I wonder how your rope got stuck. I"ve done it three times and had no problems. The rope is away from the main crack. Maybe knot on the ledge?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Cottontail Tower : West Side Story (5.9 C3)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Apr 6, 2011

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Comments: Jason, those half inch bolts that separated every other or every two ancient relic, nor those half inch bolts with chain at each anchor, were not the "original gear". Far more was replaced before you guys got there than while you were on it. Just a clarification.

EDIT
BTW, this is in no way intended to influence any arguments of style or anything. I just want it understood that prior to you guys freeing the route we had replaced a lot of it... its in the record above. I make the point simply be... more >>


Location: Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Tonsai Bay : Dum's Kitchen : Lion King (5.11c)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Mar 24, 2011

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Comments: This just got replaced in Ti. I think its pretty solid 12a these days.


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Big Bend Butte : Infrared (5.11c) : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jan 25, 2011

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Comments: Did you boys sleep?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Nov 19, 2010

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Comments: We will try and get it fixed asap


Location: UT : Moab Area : Hell Roaring Canyon
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Nov 9, 2010

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Comments: Yes, Drew, you gotta jug. One full length rope reaches. Its a bit exposed getting to the anchor. There are no sharp edges but it does rub on the rock.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Oct 30, 2010

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Comments: What a shame. Josh Gross and I rebolted this with stainless steel ASCA stuff last year. It appears we will have to start using thread lock... all we did was replace the original stuff.

I met a guy years ago who was in to removing rebolted bolts... especially asca stuff. His first initial was C and he lived in Provo. I let him know how uncool I thought it was, but anyone that ignorant and that convinced his way is the right way is not gonna change. Its a shame. I'm not sure why the world has suc... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jul 28, 2010

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Comments: Excuse me? Who stripped the bolt on the bolt ladder? And did they say why?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Nervous in Suburbia (5.10a)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jul 10, 2010

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Comments: It was rebolted with bolt placements as close to the originals as possible. This kept it in the style it was done in at the F.A.... and all subsequent ascents til this year


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Parriot Mesa : Longbow Chimney (5.8 A1)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: May 21, 2010

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Comments: Liz Wattenberg and I replaced many of the relics on this thing with modern ASCA stuff yesterday. Of the 15-20 bolts on the ladder I think I redid like 8 or 9. I left the most interesting museum pieces but set it up so if they fail you would have a hard time zippering the whole thing. The top requires a body length of easy free climbing. The new summit anchor is just under the cap rock as the stones on t he summit are pretty weak and not actually connected to the tower. Most of the pieces I pulle... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Long Canyon : Warrior Tower : Happy Hunting Grounds (5.12a A0)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: May 16, 2010

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Comments: Excellent climb. Really cool summit.


Location: UT : Moab Area : State Highway 313 : "Sapper", the tower being "... (5.8 C1+ PG13)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: May 16, 2010

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Comments: Brad Brandewie, Matt Pickren, and I went back and re did this today. Matt managed to free the last pitch at 12-. Brad managed to wiggle through the chimney without doing the armbar move... he had to take off his harness to do it, but one has to give him credit for going so far to avoid a harder move. If you do the move, the one protected by the #6 at the top of pitch 1, its 5.9. The last moves of the last pitch are 12a-ish. Back cleaning the only piece you get in (in the bedding seam) on p... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Kingfisher : Colorado Northeast Ridge (5.8 C2)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: May 14, 2010

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Comments: I did it many many moons ago. It no doubt changed many times since then. However, I remember the crux on that pitch above the ledge being protected with a tcu that was barely making contact on its outer lobe... it must have gotten so worn out its unuseable.
There was a seam there. It would take a pecker. Peckers do minimal damage.

There is one other option... has anyone tried to free it right there? In the fishers that sometimes works out nicely. Just sayin.



Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Kingfisher : Colorado Northeast Ridge (5.8 C2)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: May 13, 2010

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Comments: Sounds to me,
like it needs to be,
un-C... for a while.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Oracle : Fantasia (5.10- C2 R)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: May 11, 2010

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Comments: Darren and Aaron, Super-kudos to you two for doing this job. Thank you.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Little Valley : Pinky Tower : Ring Sizer (5.10 PG13)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: May 10, 2010

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Comments: Good-on-ya for cleaning that up.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Sand Flats : Elvis's Hammer : Hormones in Waiting (5.10c)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: May 10, 2010

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Comments: I thought the lip move was harder than 5.10. Also, one should note that the moves and pro at the base require the use of large wedged in chockstones. Being entrada, they could shatter. Just sayin'. As per the rappel, the tower will fall over before the rap anchors need any sort of replacement.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Thunderbolts (Easter Island... (5.10)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: May 9, 2010

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Comments: The ASCA replaced most of the lead bolts (pins) and the anchors. Brown chain now reigns. One 60m doing two rappels will get you down. A couple of the angles were stuborn, but most popped out waaaaaaayyyyy too easy. Again, all that was holding them in was a wad of rust mixed with sand.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Long Wall : Hot September (5.9)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Apr 17, 2010

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Comments: THis route was absolutely pure fun, in a puckered sort of way. Really cool climb.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Long Wall : The Gift (5.12a)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Apr 17, 2010

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Comments: Got too scared of the bolts... its in bad shape.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Mar 29, 2010

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Comments: And don't forget the standard "the place is ruined, man."


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : I Love Loosey (5.12b)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Mar 15, 2010

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Comments: Arete right of Baby Blue is Fernando... maybe your thinking the arete right of that.


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