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Rock Climbing Photo: The Shield


Member Since: Apr 9, 2006
Last Visit: 4 days ago
Contact Sam Lightner, Jr.

Sam Lightner, Jr.
is a member of
Point Rank: # 268
Total Points: 2,465
Last Year: 120
Last 30 Days: 0
176 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Sam Lightner, Jr. been climbing?










Sam Lightner, Jr.

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 1494 | Routes 79 | Areas 28 | Photos 203 | Page Improvements | Comments 240 | Posts 860 | Stars 84 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : The Wicked Crag
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: May 25, 2013

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Comments: It's new. Probably just a little dirty from winter runoff.


Location: WY : Lander Area : Sinks Canyon : Commercial Business Plannin...
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: May 4, 2013

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Comments: I visit Sinks Canyon because it DOESN'T have commercial venues. I like that it is effectively a wild place. I very much would be unhappy with any move to having businesses, or any more development, in Sinks Canyon.
Sam Lightner Jr.
Lander


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Devil's Golf Ball : Regular Route (5.9 C1)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Mar 27, 2013

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Comments: I managed something... I might have tied off some trees down below the start.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Learning to Fly (5.13)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Dec 3, 2012

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Comments: Dude... he called you old.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arch Canyon : Dreamspeaker : South Face (5.11b R)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Nov 28, 2012

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Comments: A few things... getting to the base of the tower is pretty scary and you should probably rope up for the last bit. Lots of dirt and consequences will get you a write up in the local paper. This is one of the softest routes I've climbed outside of Arches. The offwidth is, in my opinion, solid 5.11. Much harder than any 5.10 offwidth in the Creek, if you use that as a base. you need #5's and #6's for it. The original anchor, two pins, has been replaced and is camo-chained up, for a rap... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Oct 6, 2012

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Comments: Devin, if I understand your comment correctly, which is hard to do, then you do not understand access issues. Were you at public lands day this year? Last year? Have you commented on the ATC trail that may be coming? If you climb at the Creek, anywhere in the Indian Creek drainage, you are part of the problem that created the parking lot. And if you didn't show up to help out, then you are even more of the problem.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Hell Roaring Canyon : The Warlock : Wings of Leather (5.11 C0 PG13)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Sep 5, 2012

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Comments: Good effort Herb... its a lot of liebacking or grovelling up there.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Aug 28, 2012

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Comments: The one below it, too.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : Small towers next to Echo a... : Y Tower (5.7) : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jul 24, 2012

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Comments: I was just kidding. We all know it was a proud ascent...


Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : Small towers next to Echo a... : Y Tower (5.7) : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jul 22, 2012

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Comments: I think Stool Sample would be a more appropriate name. And i agree with Brad... calling that thing a tower is a sign you are getting old, and are married.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : True Penitence (5.11a)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jul 3, 2012

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Comments: If this is what I think it is, then I was told, back in the '80s, I got the F.A. However, that was like '87, not '84, so if the info is right, then I am wrong. For what it's worth, I called it "Vogon Poetry".


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Chimney (5.9)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jun 16, 2012

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Comments: I spent a full season right next to North Chimney and saw most parties show up without the #5. They then complained, as they should, when they got to to "the move". I even saw one group that brought the #5 to the base, but then decided not to take it on the route.

Just carry the big cam, people.

The rating is "old school" 5.8. I'd call it 10- now.

And one more time, the discussion of replacing the bolt is not about safety. With the cam you have safety. Its about convenience. Its... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Thunderbolts (Easter Island... (5.10)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jun 8, 2012

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Comments: Yeah dude, thats me... unable to see that 100% of the force on a piece of fixed protection is downward. Hmmm.

Besides pullout, the biggest problems with angles are:
1) they are untreated steel and will break down in sandstone. As taken directly from BD's website, "With normal use and proper care, the life expectancy of your aid iron is approximately five years, and can be longer or shorter depending on how frequently you use them and on the conditions of their use. " All of the pins were ruste... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: May 12, 2012

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Comments: I feel compelled to say this:
Ancient Art's Stolen Chimney is NOT a sport climb and should not be attempted by any climber who is not very comfortable climbing 5.10. There are places on each pitch where if you fall you will likely die. At the very least you will be badly hurt. The replaced bolts are nothing more than than a modern version of what the original ascent party had. They can be manipulated with by people, or damaged by the elements, in such a way that they are not safe. For thi... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: May 7, 2012

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Comments: Hey Jeremy
OK, here is the history as I have it... its all in the beholder of course.

A few years ago Josh Gross and I went out there and redid much of the route with stainless rawls where there were banged in angles and star drives. Nothing added, just replaced. Since then one of those rawls, sorry Powers 5 pieces, looked as if it had unscrewed on its own (perhaps) and come out.... another, on pitch 3, looked to have been removed. Again, these were just replacements of what had been in there.... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: May 7, 2012

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Comments: Don't worry... you can still fall and get hurt or killed... easily.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : The Rainbow Wall : The Original Route (5.12-)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Apr 30, 2012

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Comments: Josh's gear list is perfect, even for linking pitches, and I agree thtat the last 5.12 pitch is substantially harder than the others.

We got up to the base in the evening (April 27) and led the first three pitches, then slept at the base. For most of the next morning, from the top of P3 to until we were on the Rainbow Ledge way high, we were in the sun.

There were a few mosquitoes at the base during the bivy... plan accordingly.

I would list this as one of the 10 best multipitch climbs I'v... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Original Meat Wall : Wee Doggie (5.10-)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Apr 19, 2012

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Comments: I disagree. At issue is where people place their protection as that pulls the rope under the roof. Also, in this rock, you can't just place an anchor anywhere. Large flakes break off on Potash and the bulge is in a large flake.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : The Schoolmaster (5.10 A0 PG13)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Apr 14, 2012

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Comments: Seriously nice job JW!


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Lighthouse Tower : Lonely Vigil (5.10)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Mar 29, 2012

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Comments: I believe that anchor was added by the slackline community so they could walk between Lighthouse and the Butte.


Location: UT : Moab Area : State Highway 313 : Finish Line Tower- If You A... (5.8 A2) : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Feb 21, 2012

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Comments: You guys just made my shitlist.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Excuse Station (5.11)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Feb 1, 2012

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Comments: The ban only comes into effect when the birds move into the nest... thats usually late March or early April. The FOIC will try and keep you posted as to when this happens. BTW, thanks for asking. Following this ban really helps with access to the other cliffs.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Moab Rim Area : Moab Rim Trail Towers : Requiem (5.12+ A0 PG13) : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jan 17, 2012

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Comments: I think it was in the file and it just went up.... also, it reminds everyone just how hot i am.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Titan : Finger of Fate (5.8 A2)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Dec 8, 2011

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Comments: You will not have to worry about bugs right now, and I dare say you need more than a light bag. Single digits in Moab the last few nights.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Sister Superior Group : Jah Man (5.10c)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Nov 21, 2011

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Comments: Hi Gang
Here is the link to our FB page on the subject of this road.

facebook.com/note.php?note_id=...

Also, if you go there, "Like" us. The FOIC is working hard for climbing and the more friends we have, the more effective we can be... seriously.

Sam


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