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Member Since: May 4, 2012
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Sam Cannon
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Point Rank: # 919
Total Points: 762

88 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Sam Cannon been climbing?










Contributions


All 1309 | Routes 8 | Areas 1 | Photos 146 | Page Improvements 4 | Comments 159 | Posts 192 | Stars 618 | Ratings 181
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Utah : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : E Crags (DBC Canyon) : The Road to Mecca (5.5)
By: Sam Cannon When: 4 days ago

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Comments: You can indeed walk off if you want to climb without having to haul up ropes for the rappel (if you're soloing, for example). From the summit head skiers left and down until you can access a drain that easily takes you up to the saddle behind and below the summit. I scrambled down the DBC gulley which involved one mandatory section of exposed scrambling that took me a minute to figure out. This takes you to the side of p1 where you will find a bolt and a fixed line to help yo... more >>


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Squaw Peak : Squawstruck (5.11-)
By: Sam Cannon When: Apr 4, 2017

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Comments: There currently is a pair of peregrine falcons nesting at the top of p13 that were pretty pissed to see us so close to their nest. My partner was getting fly-by's within a foot or less from his head as he was heading up p13 and we continued to get attacked (never actually hit us though) at the belay below 14. We could hear the (chicks? hatchlings?)in the nest. It was really cool to have such an awesome aerial display of prowess, but also mildly scary.


We bailed for the bir... more >>


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Dragon Arch : Valentine Crack (5.8)
By: Sam Cannon When: Apr 3, 2017

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Comments: For the first belay bring a 4.5 or modern 5. Don't use that detached flake, it flexes under pressure. The 4.5 is a textbook placement to the left of it, and then I got a .75 equivalent and a blue metolius for a bomber gear anchor.

The second pitch is not an offwidth, and we didn't use anything bigger than a four but were comfortable with running it out a bit.

Despite loose and at time rotten rock I thought the movement on the route was incredibly fun. I... more >>


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Dragon Arch : Valentine Crack (5.8) : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Apr 3, 2017

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Comments: Don't sling this flake. Maybe it didn't back in 2009, but it flexed under pressure from my hand today (4/3/2017). I brought an old 4.5 (red) C4 up with me and it fit textbook into the wide crack on the left, and I was able to get a black and a yellow into the same area for a very good natural gear anchor.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Parley's Canyon : Riptide Wall : Dirty Rotten Horror (5.10b)
By: Sam Cannon When: Mar 20, 2017

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Comments: For a laugh go read the comments on Jazz the Glass (the bolted line on the lip of the arete).

I looked at the line and read the comments and decided to go for the lead. Glad I did! I thought the movement was thoughtful and exciting, the gear finicky but sufficient, and the line obvious. I was able to get a purple and yellow Metolius in while hanging from the bucket-holds on the roof which helped me to feel secure pulling up into the next section.

I didn't clip the bolts on... more >>


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Parley's Canyon : The Bungalow : Two Shovels (5.7+)
By: Sam Cannon When: Mar 20, 2017

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Comments: We were going to warm up on this then do the two routes to the right, but the trail at the base is so loose and slick that there really isn't a good stance to belay from. We skipped this and just started on the 5.9 to the right.

As another has said, a belay bolt would be great. I had gear for Riptide Wall and there wasn't a placement, so that won't help you.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : First Pullout : Panty Wall : Panty Raid (5.10a) : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Mar 10, 2017

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Comments: Not me climbing! But I will communicate your concerns to the appropriate party.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : No Laughing Matter (5.10-)
By: Sam Cannon When: Mar 8, 2017

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Comments: I thought this pitch was incredible, for what it's worth. We did Bush Pilots to get to it which makes for a fun two pitches of 10- climbing.


Location:
By: Sam Cannon When: Feb 5, 2017

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Comments: Sorry for the angle, posting from phone.


Location:
By: Sam Cannon When: Dec 7, 2016

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Comments: Nope, left the bottom part in despite digging around with a knife. This was a few weeks ago and I feel fine. I do have a small pock mark but that's from the digging around.


Location: Washington : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Tumwater Canyon : Castle Rock : Midway Direct (5.6)
By: Sam Cannon When: Oct 5, 2016

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Comments: Got some good beta from a local at the base for some route-finding. Continue up the corner instead of stepping right after the step-across. Once you get to the alcove with the poop (guano?) head left out onto the face and then up on good holds. From there it seemed like there were quite a few options; follow your nose. I was able to take a more-or-less-straight line.

I thought the climbing felt more exposed and a bit more consistent, offering a great alternative to the standard route.


Location: Washington : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Tumwater Canyon : Clem's Holler Area : Clem's Holler : Playin' Possum (5.10a)
By: Sam Cannon When: Oct 3, 2016

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Comments: Pitch 3 is awesome, and not too hard. The crux is nicely protected. Pitch 2 is a bit lame with maybe one 5.7 move and a short, tightly protected low angle slab after (5.6?) but 1 and 3 are both very fun. I only placed one piece of supplementary gear (a .75), smaller gear (0 - 1 metolius) might come in handy for someone leading at their limit.


Location: Washington : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Tumwater Canyon : Clem's Holler Area : Special Spot : Semi-Final (5.10a)
By: Sam Cannon When: Oct 3, 2016

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Comments: This is an awesome, varied route. The slab portion at the top is attention grabbing! Definitely would recommend this one and would return to do it again.


Location: Washington : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Snow Creek Area : Snow Creek Wall : Iconoclast (5.10c)
By: Sam Cannon When: Aug 22, 2016

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Comments: P5 was tough and if 10+ is near your limit the pro getting up the dirty dihedral will feel a bit lackluster and sparse. Very strong moves.

Mainly posting to say we found a bolted anchor at the top of P5, which was good because I had to get to work. We climbed with double 60s to facilitate bailing if the need arose, so I can only say with double 60s there are numerous rap stations on the way down that put us climbers left of where the route started. No hijinx necessary, just straightforward raps... more >>


Location: Washington : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Purina and Careno Area : Careno Crag : Careno Corners (5.9)
By: Sam Cannon When: Aug 19, 2016

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Comments: Would give this route 1 star except for the pitch that is pictured on the page which seemed to be part of a different route.

Pretty dirty climbing with short, fun sections. I had to do a fair amount of gardening on route.

I didn't see this mentioned but after the easy gully I climbed a corner up to a slightly kicked back offwidth-ish slot that protected fine with #1's in the back. It was a fun section and felt about 5.9. We brought a #4 an... more >>


Location: Idaho : City of Rocks : Yellow Wall
By: Sam Cannon When: Aug 16, 2016

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Comments: Thanks Mike, this is exactly what was needed. I haven't been to this area in a few years and now live in WA, but as I put up the page I guess I'm implicated. Hopefully visiting climbers can respect ongoing and touchy access issues. Once again, thanks for chiming in, and I apologize to the climbing ranger if I came across as rude, you just don't really know who you're dealing with or what their angle is with just a st... more >>


Location: Idaho : City of Rocks : Yellow Wall
By: Sam Cannon When: Aug 16, 2016

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Comments: I'd like to see something official on this. I know there is private land *around* this area, such as the Twin Sisters, but my impression was that staying out of that area specifically you're fine. Other classics such as the Skinner Roof and White Lightning are in this area and I've never heard of them being off limits, and there are no signs signifying as such as of the last time I was there.

Of course climbers should respect landowne... more >>


Location: Washington : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Tumwater Canyon : February Buttress : Ground Hog Day (5.6)
By: Sam Cannon When: Jul 31, 2016

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Comments: I'll cast my vote in favor of the 4th pitch, but I was soloing and not worrying about an anchor, gear, or a short pitch that wanders.


Location: Washington : Central Region : Vantage (Frenchman Coulee) : Zig Zag Wall : Little Book of Lies (5.8)
By: Sam Cannon When: Jun 15, 2016

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Comments: Led it up the left corner. Marginal pro sketched me out. Small nuts super useful.


Location: Washington : Northwest Region : Darrington : Three O'clock Rock : Silent Running (5.10b)
By: Sam Cannon When: May 10, 2016

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Comments: Pitches 2,3, and 7 are awesome. The whole route is, for a slab climb, very comfortably protected. Appreciated having small cams to #2, especially on p7. P7 is not 10b. Maybe 10a, but felt more 9/9+ to me. Look for right facing dihedral with a single bolt above and that is your line. Hanger and bolt loose on p1 anchors. Awesome line, beautiful setting!


Location: New Mexico : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Rabbit Ears Area : Middle Rabbit Ear : West Face (5.7)
By: Sam Cannon When: Apr 20, 2016

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Comments: Great route! While I've been here I've climbed a few of the "classics" and think this is a very deserving outing. Steep, exposed, and super fun. I think the route had a few 5.8 moves, YMMV.

One note: 3 raps with doubles 60s, the 2nd rap is ATROCIOUS. The placement is really, really bad and I'd be surprised if you DIDN'T get your rope stuck. The ropes run over a very sharp edge and they get massive pigtails. I had to ultimately climb a wide chimney and scramble some slab to get back up to the an... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The High Horns : The Wedge : Shillelagh (5.9+)
By: Sam Cannon When: Apr 18, 2016

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Comments: I don't know how Alex approached the route, but 5 miles seems off to me based on how I did it and the approach was the most straightforward of the various Organ routes I have done.

Here's some beta that might help future parties. Take the Modoc Road in as far as your car will allow (don't even think about taking a sedan, you need clearance and pretty good suspension), then follow the road for a long ways, swing out wider to the right when the road forks. The Tooth and the Wedge will be very ob... more >>


Location: Idaho : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire : Chimney (5.8)
By: Sam Cannon When: Apr 9, 2016

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Comments: No animal carcasses, some feces (but avoidable) and really interesting, excellent climbing. I really enjoyed pulling the roof at the end. I thought a triple length sling fully extended would get me up without rope issues moving from the final chimney through the roof, but the rope still pushed in my cam at the lip of the roof. Best to either not protect the last chimney or use enough slings to make a straight fall line.

I really enjoyed this unique route, though some may be turned off by the ev... more >>


Location: California : High Sierra : 04 - Ritter and the Minaret... : Clyde Minaret : Southeast Face, Direct Star... (5.10a) : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Feb 5, 2016

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Comments: Thanks for the additional info. If you have any more details about the descent, please add them. I'm going to repeat this route this summer and I badly botched the descent last time.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jackrabbit Buttress : Geronimo (5.6) : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Nov 23, 2015

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Comments: Beauty of a shot!


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